Issue update

[josh3rd]

For those who have read and or helped me with my milkshake and rad issues, here is the updates:

Eng. Cooling Sys:

ok, new rad installed, flushed engine w/dis. water (6gal total). Replaced the thermostat. Put almost 3 jugs of napa asian red/pink coolant in. There was like a chocolate milkshake color, not texture but color so i performed two flushes using that prestone cleaner stuff. and also flushed without thermostat installed.

Trans:

Replaced trans filter and gasket. B4 that I manually flushed trans with about 32-36qts of trans fluid. Its still not as clear as new fluid but its way way far from looking like how the milkshake was. Here is what I would like to know:

1) If trans uses Dex3(H), can you use this to just flush the bad fluid out but replace the final fluid that you will use while driving with the toyota brand or whatever? Reason I am asking is because of cost and amount. It is easier and more efficient cost and size wise to get a 5gal or more instead of buying the whole shelf at WM. What do you guys think?

Multi-vehicle HD Synthetic ATF Transmission Fluid - 5 Gallon Pail (18L - 4.75 GAL) - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

Also my drain plug is leaking and noticed upon removal of drain plug that it is stripped. It goes into pan and stays but still drips.
What is the size of the plug anyway?
Is it the same as the oil drain plug?
Could I use a rubber grommet as a temporary fix?

Lastly I noticed that where my brake line goes into my drivers side caliper has a slow leak. this is something new. Last year b4 covid, I replaced rotor's, pads, calipers with the larger upgrade but not the biggest ones. Forget what size actually, but you have the factory size, then the size I choose (maybe 199mm?) and then theres the 231mm. Anyway any suggestions as to how to correct the problem or diagnosis it?

thanks in adv brothers

 

[cl4Rk]

Awesome, sounds like you’re making great progress. Thanks for keeping us posted.

What is the size of the plug anyway?

- Automatic Transmission drain plug Toyota Part No. 90341-10006

- Automatic Transmission drain plug gasket (crush washer, single-use part) Toyota Part No. 35178-30010

 

[josh3rd]

Awesome, sounds like you’re making great progress. Thanks for keeping us posted.



- Automatic Transmission drain plug Toyota Part No. 90341-10006

- Automatic Transmission drain plug gasket (crush washer) Toyota Part No. 35178-30010

Do you have an opinion about buying and using that Atf from the link above, just for flushing purposes?

 

[cl4Rk]

Do you have an opinion about buying and using that Atf from the link above, just for flushing purposes?

As far as I know, as long as all the ATF you use is Dextron III-compatible, then you’re good.

I personally did a drain & fill using Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic and I have no idea what was in there before. So, I’m running with part MaxLife, part some unknown, presumably very old ATF. I haven’t had any issues.

 

[cl4Rk]

[MENTION=333854]josh3rd[/MENTION] I don’t remember if you’ve already done this or not, but I’d recommend adding a Magnefine filter on the return line.

Amazon.com: Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter: Automotive

 

[josh3rd]

where and how is that/this done?

 

[cl4Rk]

where and how is that/this done?

The Magnefine filter is an in-line magnetic filter that uses strong magnets to help remove fine metal particles from circulating through the transmission system. You’d change it every 30k miles or so when you do a routine drain & fill.

It’s in-line, so you’d cut the ATF return line (after the radiator and/or external cooler if you’ve got one) in a relatively accessible place, and put this filter in the line.

It would end up looking something like this:

This wouldn’t directly address any milkshake-related issues. Just additional ATF filtering for your rig.

Installation note: the filter is directional, so make sure the arrow is pointing in the direction of the ATF flow, which being a return line, should be flowing back to re-enter the transmission.

 

[josh3rd]

you're awesome brother, thank you. Next, what is your opinion and/or suggestion as to the tran's stripped drain bolt? A member suggested some teflon tape which is worth a try. I would like to have a permanent fix though.

 

[cl4Rk]

you're awesome brother, thank you. Next, what is your opinion and/or suggestion as to the tran's stripped drain bolt? A member suggested some teflon tape which is worth a try. I would like to have a permanent fix though.

Is the bolt stripped or is the threading on the pan stripped?

 

[josh3rd]

as of now to the best of my knowledge, its the bolt. I have not seen nor looked at the pan to see. I always assumed that if the bolt is then so is whatever its going in to

 

[cl4Rk]

as of now to the best of my knowledge, its the bolt. I have not seen nor looked at the pan to see. I always assumed that if the bolt is then so is whatever its going in to

If it’s just the bolt, then order a new one (and a new crush washer). I would personally just wait for it to show up before continuing. (That’s just me though. I’m sure plenty of people would go with Teflon tape or something. I would just hate to risk any foreign material circulating through the system..)

If it’s the pan, well, that’s beyond me. I think I remember reading about some people tapping in a bigger size drain plug or something? Or even replacing the entire pan? IDK

 

[3bears]

cl4k advice is good, esp the magnafine. Years back they went to a plastic housing and those had issues, make sure you get the metal housing...which I think is all they sell now.
The pan drain bolt can be an issue....I had to replace a pan because the "nut" part in the pan is what was stripped. Since then Ive read of people drilling out and putting in a larger and read about people dropping pan, cutting off the "nut" and weild in a larger one. Ive read of people using self taping ones that go slightly larger. There might be other fixes out there.
If you drop the pan, they are "form a gasket" from the factory although many people have put in aftermarket filters that come with a gasket for the pan. The pan to tranny bolts can strip easy as well. Have read where some people dont like the gasket cause they have to put more torque on the bolts to get it to seal, and then strip a bolt. sadly I know that form experience as well. The last time I dropped a pan I used the silicone and used a torque wrench.
Im sure if you use the search bar you can find several threads related to the pan drain stip. Good luck ( in a positive way)

 

[josh3rd]

3bears, i got a gasket & filter kit and everything went smooth. It was just a PITA unscrewing and screwing the pan. so far no leaks from pan to trans junction/abutment, just that damn drain bolt/plug. Now after all this my darn drivers (front) side hard line is leaking at caliper. I am wondering if i should only replace hard line or hard and hose.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

3bears, i got a gasket & filter kit and everything went smooth. It was just a PITA unscrewing and screwing the pan. so far no leaks from pan to trans junction/abutment, just that damn drain bolt/plug. Now after all this my darn drivers (front) side hard line is leaking at caliper. I am wondering if i should only replace hard line or hard and hose.

Buy a new drain bolt my 97 Limited was like that when I bought it.

As for the brake line try tightening it another 1/4 turn or remove it and check for dirt and spray with brake clean and make sure both sides are clean.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[98taco3]

The Magnefine filter is an in-line magnetic filter that uses strong magnets to help remove fine metal particles from circulating through the transmission system. You’d change it every 30k miles or so when you do a routine drain & fill.

It’s in-line, so you’d cut the ATF return line (after the radiator and/or external cooler if you’ve got one) in a relatively accessible place, and put this filter in the line.

It would end up looking something like this:

This wouldn’t directly address any milkshake-related issues. Just additional ATF filtering for your rig.

Installation note: the filter is directional, so make sure the arrow is pointing in the direction of the ATF flow, which being a return line, should be flowing back to re-enter the transmission.

Good idea! Think im gonna order one tonight and throw it in when i drop my trans pan.

 

[josh3rd]

does the inline filter come with the clamps or attachment to connect the hoses to each end?

 

[cl4Rk]

does the inline filter come with the clamps or attachment to connect the hoses to each end?

Mine did not come with clamps.

You might also want to have a few feet of new 3/8” (IIRC) inner diameter rubber transmission oil cooler hose on standby, since our hoses are old and sometimes cutting into them and pressing them onto new fittings will cause them to split/crack.

I haven’t tried this exact hose, but I think you’d want something like this: Amazon.com: Gates 27057 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose-3' Length, Inner Diameter 3/8": Automotive

 

[repo]

The trans plug will strip if a new crush gasket washer isnt used when its reinstalled, unless it gets very carefully hand torqued. The bolt is softer than the pan, a new bolt should but try ans flush out any shavings that might gave come off or poke a magnet around the hole or something.

 

[spartacus]

does the inline filter come with the clamps or attachment to connect the hoses to each end?

They don't come with clamps. Keep in mind they recommend changing them every 12 months or 30k miles.

 

[josh3rd]

Mine did not come with clamps.

You might also want to have a few feet of new 3/8” (IIRC) inner diameter rubber transmission oil cooler hose on standby, since our hoses are old and sometimes cutting into them and pressing them onto new fittings will cause them to split/crack.

I haven’t tried this exact hose, but I think you’d want something like this: Amazon.com: Gates 27057 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose-3' Length, Inner Diameter 3/8": Automotive

well inline filter is on its way