Issues engaging e-locker

[DK327]

Hey all, it snowed a bit here in the Midwest so I thought I'd check out how the e-locker performs... Well, I had an issue engaging it. I put the vehicle in 4Lo and pressed the button, the ABS and Diff Lock lights came on but the red one kept flashing and never turned solid. I have never engaged the locker since I got the vehicle 3 years ago but do exercise the gears regularly. Again, it has no issue shifting to 4Lo but the darn locker just won't stay solid. I'll try and drive forward and back and turn the wheel slightly to line up the gears to have it engage tonight after work but any other pointers are much appreciated!

 

[redshift83]

Hey all, it snowed a bit here in the Midwest so I thought I'd check out how the e-locker performs... Well, I had an issue engaging it. I put the vehicle in 4Lo and pressed the button, the ABS and Diff Lock lights came on but the red one kept flashing and never turned solid. I have never engaged the locker since I got the vehicle 3 years ago but do exercise the gears regularly. Again, it has no issue shifting to 4Lo but the darn locker just won't stay solid. I'll try and drive forward and back and turn the wheel slightly to line up the gears to have it engage tonight after work but any other pointers are much appreciated!

Since you haven't used the locker it is possible that the locker engagement motor has seized up, this is not uncommon unfortunately. The good part is that it seems many people have had luck removing the motor housing, cleaning things up, and re-assembling.

Here is a link to troubleshooting the e-locker:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167531-factory-e-locker-troubleshooting-%7C-bigfishallday-quoted.html

The thread itself is discussing manually testing the motor to see if it will engage, but there are a TON of links in the first post that should give you lots of info. I'm in the middle of retrofitting a locker into my 97 and this thread has been unbelievably helpful.

First step would be to try again with the rocking back/forth to see if it'll engage, but if not then the above info should get you on the way to figuring things out. Good luck!

 

[mtbtim]

Turn the wheels more than slightly and it will probably engage. Just do some S-Turns and I bet it will finally lock in. Once you get to lock, unlock it and lock it a few times to exercise it. In the future, don't go for too long without locking it and you won't have issues with it anymore.

 

[ToyotaBrah]

And here is a very helpful video on how to clean and regrease the e-locker actuator!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aqPmA0J0Zco" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[3bears]

And here is a very helpful video on how to clean and regrease the e-locker actuator!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aqPmA0J0Zco" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

nice video

of course the op could always do the gray wire mod while fixing.
I like being able to lock the rear in 4wd high, and on rare occasion locked in 2wd

 

[kolelt]

Another possibility is that someone removed the motor but never clocked it properly. When your putting the elocker motor back. You must clock the axle and the motor to lock position. Then install the motor. Then you unlock it. And this allows the motor to lock and unlock properly. Very important.

 

[I_bRAD]

Turn the wheels more than slightly and it will probably engage. Just do some S-Turns and I bet it will finally lock in. Once you get to lock, unlock it and lock it a few times to exercise it. In the future, don't go for too long without locking it and you won't have issues with it anymore.

What do folks consider "too long"?

I had to go to 4lo to get up my driveway last night but locker wasn't happening. I think last time I used it was about a year ago.

 

[WWRD99]

I have had mine since 2001 and have used the rear locker maybe 10 times,,,which is probably high,,,I just did the wire ground and use it all the time now and it works every time...I'm not sure why...I do change the fluid a bunch in the diff,,,,One thing that mine did go wrong was the little switch on top of the diff that tells the locker that it is locked,,,like a reverse switch on a manual trans,,,mine broke so it always flashed but it was locked...I got pissed one day a few years ago and paperclipped the connection and the light stopped flashing...I replaced that little switch and now it doesn't flash.

 

[MSRP.]

If you have the ability to lift both rear tires off the ground at a time (lift from the diff), you can engage the locker (normally) by turning just one wheel at a time.

Should lock super easy and hear it lock/unlock.

 

[nevada]

And here is a very helpful video on how to clean and regrease the e-locker actuator!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aqPmA0J0Zco" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture"></iframe>

excellent video.


but, how did you get it to post directly? ive tried several times, and it doesn't work. it used to, but now not so much...

 

[ToyotaBrah]

excellent video.


but, how did you get it to post directly? ive tried several times, and it doesn't work. it used to, but now not so much...

Hah, funny you ask that because I was trying several times myself to get it to show up. I think with the recent changes in this forum, the embedding format changed.

What finally worked was clicking the share button underneath the video -> click on embed -> copy that link and paste it here with nothing else added.

 

[Jason B]

And here is a very helpful video on how to clean and regrease the e-locker actuator!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aqPmA0J0Zco" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

How are you getting youtube videos to display? Can you give me the coding you need to put in front and behind the youtube link????

 

[I_bRAD]

Well. That sucks.

 

[redshift83]

Wow, that is a new one. Can you strip the gears, etc out of it? Looks like there is a c clip than could help with that on the gear. Depending on how much material is left it could possible be cleaned up and welded then ground so itll fit the axle again. Might not work, but considering the prices of these things I'd try if it was mine.

 

[I_bRAD]

Wow, that is a new one. Can you strip the gears, etc out of it? Looks like there is a c clip than could help with that on the gear. Depending on how much material is left it could possible be cleaned up and welded then ground so itll fit the axle again. Might not work, but considering the prices of these things I'd try if it was mine.

Going to try and get it open at least. The motor actually still works but wouldn't engage the lock. Have considered JB weld but not sure I could repair it and still fit it on the axle. Didn't consider welding proper; I'd have to take it to someone as I only have the ability to weld steel.

I might also look for a dead actuator with a good housing. Does anyone on here have something they'd be willing to sell/ship?

 

[I_bRAD]

Yeah. Toast!

I'll try and JB weld it but that's done for. Almost looks like it was hit at some point.

 

[I_bRAD]

Question: If I manually engage the locker with my finger, with the actuator removed from the axle, should the 'diff lock' light go solid or is it sensing something within the actuator itself?

Even though the housing is wrecked, the gear still turns but perhaps it's not turning enough to actually engage the locker.

Edit- As far as the damaged housing goes, It looks like someone tried to remove the actuator at some point by prying from the bottom without removing the top fastener. Wonder if the gear is simply misaligned to it's mate inside the diff. It has worked in the past though and any damage would have been before I owned it.

 

[JohnMc]

It's incredibly easy to damage that back plate, even with all the bolts properly removed. Especially in the rust belt. The back plate gets a little corroded, the center part gets a bit wedged in the diff housing hole, and it's all just stuck in place firmly and fragile and brittle.

I thought I was being *super* careful with mine, but after it was off, it was cracked. I just reassembled it again (after cleaning/regreasing) and it's been working fine.

It would be AWESOME if you could buy a replacement back plate, but I couldn't find anything. Just new or used complete actuators for $$$.

IIRC - three's no sensor for locker engagement in the differential itself, it's all in the actuator. A switch closes when the actuator moves to a position that should equate to a locked diff. It's not like the ADD front diff that has a switch that indicates engaged that is separate from the actuator.

 

[I_bRAD]

It's incredibly easy to damage that back plate, even with all the bolts properly removed. Especially in the rust belt. The back plate gets a little corroded, the center part gets a bit wedged in the diff housing hole, and it's all just stuck in place firmly and fragile and brittle.

I thought I was being *super* careful with mine, but after it was off, it was cracked. I just reassembled it again (after cleaning/regreasing) and it's been working fine.

It would be AWESOME if you could buy a replacement back plate, but I couldn't find anything. Just new or used complete actuators for $$$.

IIRC - three's no sensor for locker engagement in the differential itself, it's all in the actuator. A switch closes when the actuator moves to a position that should equate to a locked diff. It's not like the ADD front diff that has a switch that indicates engaged that is separate from the actuator.

Did yours crack as bad as mine was?

 

[JohnMc]

Nope - not as bad. I didn't even think I'd cracked it until I cleaned it up. And noticed a semi-circular split around the center.

To a certain extent - the way it installs will hold it together and aligned properly. The center part - that locates and supports the shaft with the gear - goes into a hole in the diff housing itself, so even if broken, that will locate and support that end. Then the rest of the actuator is held on by those bolts. In theory you could get it slightly off center, but probably not enough to make it not work. The main issue at that point would just be water entering the actuator through the cracks. So maybe try to seal them with JB Weld or RTV.

And worse case, if it doesn't work, just buy another one. $400 - $500-ish if you look around some.