It never ends with this car

[wreckedrex]

With regards to the hot rear brakes: Make sure that the parking brake bellcrank is adjusted properly. I chased the burning brakes and shaking form the passenger rear for a month or so. I'd get under the truck, adjust the shoes and it would be fine for a while, then come back a while later. I installed all new factory parts and freshly turned drums by the book, except for that one (very easy) final adjustment. If the bellcrank is out of whack the auto adjusters will move the shoes to far every time you use the parking brake, eventually they will start making a bunch of heat and the truck will feel like a paint shaker going down the freeway. It's stupid easy to do, the wheel doesn't even need to come off.

 

[Riders of Lohan]

I wouldn't blame the truck, sounds like the "mechanic" induced the majority of the problems while sticking it to you on the cost. 3600 for tranny work!!!!!! You can get a low milage one for under a grand and have it swapped out in two afternoons, even at a high shop rate you should be under 2000.00 w/labor. 1100.00 for brakes, when (by the sound of it) he didn't replace the rotors.

Yeah I was in the middle of the attempted tranny swap when it fully broke down on him. At that point I had no leads, no car, no one to help me

Rotors are new for sure

 

[Riders of Lohan]

Youre probably right. And the majority of the other issues you've had are probably due to poor maintenance or simply a lack thereof from the previous owner/s. The big issues you've had are more uncommon, which is why these are typically great trucks. The smaller issues are maintenance related, and would need to be done on any high mileage vehicle. Though, ie my truck has 230k miles, and Im still on the original rear drums. They need replaced, but still work properly. Again, your truck sounds like issues due to more maintenance or maybe someone who beat the crap out of it. And as mentioned, your mechanic seems untrustworthy, or unskilled.

He seems very nice and I know just enough about cars where I think I could tell if he was bullshitting me... I don't know

looked like the drums had never been off my truck and the shoes were really beat up

It was a lease for 5 years, then bought out. I bet it milkshaked, was fixed for cheap, and was traded in.

he actually did alot of work to diagnose the torque converter issue and repaired contacts for free...

when I brought it back for a gear whine he got into it with his supplier (Allegedly) who felt the noise was OK. He broke down the tranny without their consent to prove the planetary gear was bad and got it replaced.

Seems like a real nice guy and has really nice GMC Cyclones...Grand Nationals...Cobras...all sorts of well maintained old cars that he seems to be trusted with.

 

[ajonesnv]

Yeah I was in the middle of the attempted tranny swap when it fully broke down on him. At that point I had no leads, no car, no one to help me

Rotors are new for sure

I wish I was closer to be able to help you out. Its really not a bad job, just time consuming and usually at least 4 hands are useful.

He must have used some cheap replacements...these things warp rotors quickly and some of the cheap rotors are not even true to start with. Pretty lame!

 

[Riders of Lohan]

With regards to the hot rear brakes: Make sure that the parking brake bellcrank is adjusted properly. I chased the burning brakes and shaking form the passenger rear for a month or so. I'd get under the truck, adjust the shoes and it would be fine for a while, then come back a while later. I installed all new factory parts and freshly turned drums by the book, except for that one (very easy) final adjustment. If the bellcrank is out of whack the auto adjusters will move the shoes to far every time you use the parking brake, eventually they will start making a bunch of heat and the truck will feel like a paint shaker going down the freeway. It's stupid easy to do, the wheel doesn't even need to come off.

I am going to do some googling on this and see what I can find out. I inspected it last night but couldn't tell what it should look like.

Thanks

 

[Riders of Lohan]

where you went wrong was REBUILDING the transmissions.

You could've gotten a new transmission, or a used one from a place, added a cooler and been perfectly fine.

Too bad you're in Chicago.

I would've done it for the parts.

I wish I was closer to be able to help you out. Its really not a bad job, just time consuming and usually at least 4 hands are useful.

He must have used some cheap replacements...these things warp rotors quickly and some of the cheap rotors are not even true to start with. Pretty lame!

Thank you both for being so generous - in return, I hope a good thing happens to you today:happy:

 

[Doc2012]

Thank you both for being so generous - in return, I hope a good thing happens to you today:happy:

No Problem man.

Here's my suggestion to you.

Get OEM parts.

Hell, go to a jy, get some Tundra brakes, and updrade the calipers while you're at it.

Order the pads and shims from the Dealer, as well as doing the rear pads and drums from the dealer as well.

This will insure OEM stuff, and not possibly crap that the mechanic you're using is supplying.


Again, ROT with these trucks is EVERYTHING replaced be replaced with OEM parts.

Camelback Toyota is a great place to get them from.

 

[ajonesnv]

Thank you both for being so generous - in return, I hope a good thing happens to you today:happy:

Like above, HOWEVER, I have had some great luck with all Autozone parts on the 199mm tundra upgrade. But, with the luck you have had I would steer you into the OEM direction just for the sake of assurance.

Shoot, wrenching is fun for me and a stress relief, so you would be doing me a favor. Good luck man.

 

[Scramble]

what you need to do is stop backing up this crappy tech and go to a auto transmission specialist. stop wasting time and money with a crappy tech taking your money. or better yet, take it to a toyota stealship and have them do it, if your spending that kind of money

The stealership doesn't always fix the problem either & they charge you a lot of money. There was a guy on here who had his "vibration" fixed by the dealer by giving him a new differential when all he needed was a new drive shaft.

My mechanic takes a long time to do my work too but he is honest, cheap & knowledgeable. I really have to stay on his ass. Do I like it? No! The truck isn't my DD anymore & he knows that.

 

[Scramble]

I must have the worst ****ing luck with this truck

had it for almost 2 years. It was pretty solid for the first year.

This spring the trans went out, along with the TQ and I replaced the radiator. $3600, in shop probably 4 weeks.

The transfer case was leaking within a weak of that. Took it back to the same mechanic. He rebuilt all 3 seals for $300. Sure enough, one of them was defective and it was immediately leaking. Took it back. In shop probably 2 weeks.

Trans was popping into neutral when shifting from 2-3. Took it back to him, it was the valve body. Had it covered under warranty. in shop 2 weeks.

check engine light came on for torque converter not locking. Took it back to him, claims it was the ECU connectors. Cleans them and problem goes away. In shop 2 weeks.

Car starts whining in drive and reverse. I immediately take it back to the guy knowing it's the tranny and it's under warranty. It's the planetary gear that has failed and is replaced.

I ask him to look at the brakes while he has the car. It has been wobbling under braking. They're in rough shape. front rotors are warped of course, pads are shot of course, calipers are seized up.

Rear drums wont come off. when they do, everything is original. 162k miles on them. need new drums, shoes, and the little piston things. $1100 total for front and rear. In shop 2 weeks.

Get the car back, it still wobbles under braking. Driving it last night and notice it squeaking from the rear as well. Pull over to get gas, passenger side drum is hot as hell. Hot enough to melt plastic, the other side is fine. In fact, the passenger side RIM is hotter than the driver side DRUM. :gun4:

drive it home and cost the rest of the way. Car smells like burning brakes.

Mechanic wants me to bring it back to get them "adjusted" and he's like 50 miles away.

TLDR: spent 6k on repairs on a 3rd gen this year. no longer enjoy driving it or trust it.

Sorry for all the problems Bro. I had no problems with my truck for the first 11 years. Now that's it's old, I'm constantly fixing things. I've got over 10 grand invested in the past 3 years. Now I have a problem with the driveshaft... Ugg! & it's my snow vehicle to get me to work!

 

[Ol'Blue]

Let me give you the name to our shop if you are willing to drive 8 hours to see us. I'm sure it would be cheaper and it would be fixed the first time the right way.

Budget Automotive Springfield MO. Don't let the name fool you for cheap crap work. Our guys are good.

Looks like a nice truck all and all. I have three customers that have 3rd Gens that we work for Maint. and small stuff etc. Other than that they are run great.

Get another Tech man!!!!!!!

Blue

 

[Riders of Lohan]

No Problem man.

Here's my suggestion to you.

Get OEM parts.

Hell, go to a jy, get some Tundra brakes, and updrade the calipers while you're at it.

Order the pads and shims from the Dealer, as well as doing the rear pads and drums from the dealer as well.

This will insure OEM stuff, and not possibly crap that the mechanic you're using is supplying.


Again, ROT with these trucks is EVERYTHING replaced be replaced with OEM parts.

Camelback Toyota is a great place to get them from.

I used OEM parts on the transfer case seals and the LBJ's. Funny enough, the top seal from the transfer case was defective from toyota and leaked immediately? :rofl:

When I got a quote from the mechanic for the brakes, I ran the tundra upgrade past him as I had planned to do it. He talked me out of it because he said the ABS Sensors and master cylinders were designed and calibrated by Toyota to handle the calipers and rotors on the car. Upgrading them could "overload" the front brakes? :noidea:

he also talked me out of the ext. tranny cooler when I replaced the radiator (denso unit) because he said the fluid could be too cold for too long in the winter and do more damage. I went along with it with the idea that I would replace the radiator or do the ext. cooler maybe 50k miles down the road from rebuild. :noidea:

 

[Riders of Lohan]

Let me give you the name to our shop if you are willing to drive 8 hours to see us. I'm sure it would be cheaper and it would be fixed the first time the right way.

Budget Automotive Springfield MO. Don't let the name fool you for cheap crap work. Our guys are good.

Looks like a nice truck all and all. I have three customers that have 3rd Gens that we work for Maint. and small stuff etc. Other than that they are run great.

Get another Tech man!!!!!!!

Blue

I'm barely willing to drive it 1 hour!!

 

[Riders of Lohan]

Sorry for all the problems Bro. I had no problems with my truck for the first 11 years. Now that's it's old, I'm constantly fixing things. I've got over 10 grand invested in the past 3 years. Now I have a problem with the driveshaft... Ugg! & it's my snow vehicle to get me to work!

you know that feeling when you buy a car and have these grand plans of lift kits and bumpers and offroad adventures and then you spend $6k fixing things and it's still stock 2 years later :violin:

it's my DD to :violin:

 

[Riders of Lohan]

as an update: was speaking to my mechanic alot yesterday. He is driving his tow vehicle around today in case I need to get it picked up. I made it to work and It no longer smells like burning, however the passenger side brake drum will burn your hand in a second, whereas the drivers side is lukewarm. almost comfortable to touch on a cold day

not sure which is more normal......

 

[Doc2012]

I used OEM parts on the transfer case seals and the LBJ's. Funny enough, the top seal from the transfer case was defective from toyota and leaked immediately? :rofl:

The only "Seal" i know of on the top of the t-case is a metal one, and if that leaked, he didn't use any sealer aroud it. I ALWAYS put a small bead of RTV around everything. Can't hurt to keep shit sealed.

When I got a quote from the mechanic for the brakes, I ran the tundra upgrade past him as I had planned to do it. He talked me out of it because he said the ABS Sensors and master cylinders were designed and calibrated by Toyota to handle the calipers and rotors on the car. Upgrading them could "overload" the front brakes? :noidea:

Um, never heard of that one, but there are hundreds of people doing it that have not had a single issue, most in over 50k.

he also talked me out of the ext. tranny cooler when I replaced the radiator (denso unit) because he said the fluid could be too cold for too long in the winter and do more damage. I went along with it with the idea that I would replace the radiator or do the ext. cooler maybe 50k miles down the road from rebuild. :noidea:

I wouldn't really worry about that. It's good insurance against te pink milkshake. Hell, if you're worried about it, put some cardboard in front of the cooler to keep the temp up in it.

Answers in BIU

 

[LittleCaesar]

When I got a quote from the mechanic for the brakes, I ran the tundra upgrade past him as I had planned to do it. He talked me out of it because he said the ABS Sensors and master cylinders were designed and calibrated by Toyota to handle the calipers and rotors on the car. Upgrading them could "overload" the front brakes? :noidea:

he also talked me out of the ext. tranny cooler when I replaced the radiator (denso unit) because he said the fluid could be too cold for too long in the winter and do more damage. I went along with it with the idea that I would replace the radiator or do the ext. cooler maybe 50k miles down the road from rebuild. :noidea:

As much faith as you may have in this guy as a mechanic, he doesn't know as much as he may. That is why I'd be hesitant on giving him any more of my money.

Some external ATF coolers have built into them a LPD device (low pressure drop) which allows the fluid to bypass the cooler until it reaches a certain temp, then it begins to cool (usually starting at 170). So if the ATF never gets to 170, you don't have to worry about the cooler "overcooling" per se. Most competent mechanics know this.

I could understand why he won't do the TBU but his reasoning is that of ignorance.

Spending $6k on a 4runner in a year must be hard on the wallet.

 

[Riders of Lohan]

As much faith as you may have in this guy as a mechanic, he doesn't know as much as he may. That is why I'd be hesitant on giving him any more of my money.

Some external ATF coolers have built into them a LPD device (low pressure drop) which allows the fluid to bypass the cooler until it reaches a certain temp, then it begins to cool (usually starting at 170). So if the ATF never gets to 170, you don't have to worry about the cooler "overcooling" per se. Most competent mechanics know this.

I could understand why he won't do the TBU but his reasoning is that of ignorance.

very interesting regarding the LPD! engineers are amazing

This is his car, so when I saw this, I thought "Great! If he has one of these, a 13 year old toyota will be no problem"

Spending $6k on a 4runner in a year must be hard on the wallet.

I sold the wallet...it was full grain leather and it was empty anyway:high5: