sharp4runr
New member
Koz said:
I think this should be a Corona commercial
<img src="http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/graphics/Wedge.jpg">
January 2006 T4ROTM - ozrunner
- Thread starter ozrunner
- Start date
I think this should be a Corona commercial
<img src="http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/graphics/Wedge.jpg">
greasefingers
New member
sharp4runr said:I think this should be a Corona commercial
<img src="http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/graphics/Wedge.jpg">
I was thinking the same exact thing. what's missing in this picture? A girl in the second chair and the Corona's between them
As we say in Oz, " I'll be buggered ". Thanks for this guys.
Yep it's summer here and it was just over 100F today. Probably hit the beach tomorrow
I'm still currently working on a 8 stack efi manifold set up as per the pic above but as previously mentioned there are a lot of pics on my page on the swap and various accessories and mechanical changes etc.
The Suspension section has details on such things as
Suspension control roof console
ARB front locker
Rear Detroit Electrac LSD/Locker
Rear discs
Front and rear electric swaybar releases.
The Accessories section includes
Bullbar and Winch
Lightforce spots
Factory flares
110 litre fuel tank
Rear drawer storage unit
Bed
Rear seat storage unit
Cargo barrier
GPS, CB and air fuel ratio guage
Tyre pumps and awning etc
My 4Runner is built to be a very capable 4wd but also so it can easily cruise for many miles in comfort etc. It has now been across Oz 10 times with another planned for April 2006
The HO engine swap made the most dramatic change in this regard as it has awesome torque for 4WD situations, eg it will idle along in soft beach sand at 800rpm in top gear and still pull away if required. But the best is its ability to cruise in any terrain with such ease that it makes driving a pleasure and overtaking is a breeze, LOL.
The engine has now done way over 200,000klms since the swap and it has never given me any problems at all and cruising at 70mph it will return between 11.5-12.5 L/100 no problems even with a Ford SVO E303 cam
I have no idea when I will stop modifying or changing things as I always seem to come up with more ideas and the list is getting longer and longer each day but I will slowly get them done,
Here's the link
My 4Runner
JD
Yep it's summer here and it was just over 100F today. Probably hit the beach tomorrow
I'm still currently working on a 8 stack efi manifold set up as per the pic above but as previously mentioned there are a lot of pics on my page on the swap and various accessories and mechanical changes etc.
The Suspension section has details on such things as
Suspension control roof console
ARB front locker
Rear Detroit Electrac LSD/Locker
Rear discs
Front and rear electric swaybar releases.
The Accessories section includes
Bullbar and Winch
Lightforce spots
Factory flares
110 litre fuel tank
Rear drawer storage unit
Bed
Rear seat storage unit
Cargo barrier
GPS, CB and air fuel ratio guage
Tyre pumps and awning etc
My 4Runner is built to be a very capable 4wd but also so it can easily cruise for many miles in comfort etc. It has now been across Oz 10 times with another planned for April 2006
The HO engine swap made the most dramatic change in this regard as it has awesome torque for 4WD situations, eg it will idle along in soft beach sand at 800rpm in top gear and still pull away if required. But the best is its ability to cruise in any terrain with such ease that it makes driving a pleasure and overtaking is a breeze, LOL.
The engine has now done way over 200,000klms since the swap and it has never given me any problems at all and cruising at 70mph it will return between 11.5-12.5 L/100 no problems even with a Ford SVO E303 cam
I have no idea when I will stop modifying or changing things as I always seem to come up with more ideas and the list is getting longer and longer each day but I will slowly get them done,
Here's the link
My 4Runner
JD
Mr. Lambdebois
New member
Very cool. I have a (gasp) explorer (gasp) with the 5.0l engine.s.
The low end torque gets me up any mountain hill with out even breaking a sweat. Our other explore has the problem proned 4.0l sohc and it has to drop gears and run high rpm just to maintain it's speed going though the mountain
Just wondering did you throw in a 4r70w/ aod-e tranny to mate to it.
I guess I could just check out your link.....
Anyways I can imagine all the time and effort you have put into your ride. Kuddos to you.
John
The low end torque gets me up any mountain hill with out even breaking a sweat. Our other explore has the problem proned 4.0l sohc and it has to drop gears and run high rpm just to maintain it's speed going though the mountain
Just wondering did you throw in a 4r70w/ aod-e tranny to mate to it.
I guess I could just check out your link.....
Anyways I can imagine all the time and effort you have put into your ride. Kuddos to you.
John
Hey ozrunner,
Where are those pics taken? Looks a bit like Fraser Island. If its not have you ever taken the runner to Fraser? I lived in Adelaide for a year back in 2002-2003 and during one of my breaks from uni I got to go 4WD on Fraser. We got one of those massive Land Cruisers that has all the luggage on top, it was so much fun I can't wait to make it back.
A little wierd driving on the right side of the vehicle with the 5-speed. The diesel land cruiser made it a breeze though. We didn't get stuck once!!!
Thanks for the T4R of the month pics!!
Where are those pics taken? Looks a bit like Fraser Island. If its not have you ever taken the runner to Fraser? I lived in Adelaide for a year back in 2002-2003 and during one of my breaks from uni I got to go 4WD on Fraser. We got one of those massive Land Cruisers that has all the luggage on top, it was so much fun I can't wait to make it back.
A little wierd driving on the right side of the vehicle with the 5-speed. The diesel land cruiser made it a breeze though. We didn't get stuck once!!!
Thanks for the T4R of the month pics!!
Sorry guys but the time differences mean I'm not on line when you guys are.
Phil
How many hours? Hundreds and still counting I was in no real hurry as it had to be done right otherwise it becomes a pointless excercise. But the current 8 stack injection project is proving to be a little longer than anticipated.
Phil
Nope, they're on our local beaches in Western Australia.
But yep I drove across to Fraser in 2001 and plan to again drive to Queensland and probably visit Fraser in April this year thats if I get the 8 stack injection done in time
JD
Phil
How many hours? Hundreds and still counting
I was in no real hurry as it had to be done right otherwise it becomes a pointless excercise. But the current 8 stack injection project is proving to be a little longer than anticipated.Phil
Nope, they're on our local beaches in Western Australia.
But yep I drove across to Fraser in 2001 and plan to again drive to Queensland and probably visit Fraser in April this year thats if I get the 8 stack injection done in time
JD
The front ADD diff although it has an ARB air locker.
Actually, although the trans is an R154 it is exactly the same as a V6 4Runner trans but with different gear ratios. I have been looking at fitting a T56 6 speed and may do so but at the moment there's other projects I want to get done.
I only recently fabricated the rear Dana44 pumpkin setup so I could fit a Detroit Electrac and prior to that it ran the normal Toy 8" with a Truetrac.
Although it has now been 13 years since I fitted the HO and I only made these changes in the past few years I have yet to break anything in the drivetrain.
I believe this has a lot to do with having more HP and torque as before when tackling big gnarly hills etc you had to ring its neck all the way up and this usually meant you did a bit of uncontrolled bouncing. This is when things break such as CV's etc when a free spinning wheel suddenly got traction.
Now with the HO's torque and lockers it is so easy to just let it crawl up with no drama's and shock load the axles.
I've been in my workshop working on the 8 trumpet injection and its coming along fine although there have been a few issues to resolve.
It should be close to being finished in a few weeks. I'll post some minor update pics on the weekend.
JD
although it has an ARB air locker. Actually, although the trans is an R154 it is exactly the same as a V6 4Runner trans but with different gear ratios. I have been looking at fitting a T56 6 speed and may do so but at the moment there's other projects I want to get done.
I only recently fabricated the rear Dana44 pumpkin setup so I could fit a Detroit Electrac and prior to that it ran the normal Toy 8" with a Truetrac.
Although it has now been 13 years since I fitted the HO and I only made these changes in the past few years I have yet to break anything in the drivetrain.
I believe this has a lot to do with having more HP and torque as before when tackling big gnarly hills etc you had to ring its neck all the way up and this usually meant you did a bit of uncontrolled bouncing. This is when things break such as CV's etc when a free spinning wheel suddenly got traction.
Now with the HO's torque and lockers it is so easy to just let it crawl up with no drama's and shock load the axles.
I've been in my workshop working on the 8 trumpet injection and its coming along fine although there have been a few issues to resolve
. It should be close to being finished in a few weeks. I'll post some minor update pics on the weekend.
JD
ozrunner said:The front ADD diff
Actually, although the trans is an R154 it is exactly the same as a V6 4Runner trans but with different gear ratios. I have been looking at fitting a T56 6 speed and may do so but at the moment there's other projects I want to get done.
I only recently fabricated the rear Dana44 pumpkin setup so I could fit a Detroit Electrac and prior to that it ran the normal Toy 8" with a Truetrac.
Although it has now been 13 years since I fitted the HO and I only made these changes in the past few years I have yet to break anything in the drivetrain.
I believe this has a lot to do with having more HP and torque as before when tackling big gnarly hills etc you had to ring its neck all the way up and this usually meant you did a bit of uncontrolled bouncing. This is when things break such as CV's etc when a free spinning wheel suddenly got traction.
Now with the HO's torque and lockers it is so easy to just let it crawl up with no drama's and shock load the axles.
I've been in my workshop working on the 8 trumpet injection and its coming along fine although there have been a few issues to resolve
It should be close to being finished in a few weeks. I'll post some minor update pics on the weekend.
JD
even though that is allot of car/offroading language I don't understand, it's pretty awesome anyways! Can the V6 transmission really handle all that power with no issues?
Mike
The R series ( R150 - V6, R151, R154, R452) is a very strong trans and they all have the same internals just different gear ratios and they will easily handle a V8 let alone a V6.
The R154 comes in the twin turbo Supra's and some of those guys make some big HP
I also changed mine to a 37% overdrive 5th gear so it just lopes along.
Our current model Landcruiser Prado V6 comes with a Toy 6 speed but its gear ratio's don't suit my purposes.
The Landcruiser 4.7 V8's (same as your V8 4Runners) come with a 5 speed.
But I like the double overdrive T56 thats used in our Ford Falcon turbo inline six and and may adapt one up eventually
JD
The R series ( R150 - V6, R151, R154, R452) is a very strong trans and they all have the same internals just different gear ratios and they will easily handle a V8 let alone a V6.
The R154 comes in the twin turbo Supra's and some of those guys make some big HP
I also changed mine to a 37% overdrive 5th gear so it just lopes along.
Our current model Landcruiser Prado V6 comes with a Toy 6 speed but its gear ratio's don't suit my purposes.
The Landcruiser 4.7 V8's (same as your V8 4Runners) come with a 5 speed.
But I like the double overdrive T56 thats used in our Ford Falcon turbo inline six and and may adapt one up eventually
JD
Guys
Here's some pics of my new injection manifold project so far that I've loaded on a separate page to save clogging up the board.
There's still a lot of work to do but it should be done soon
Injection Manifold
JD
Here's some pics of my new injection manifold project so far that I've loaded on a separate page to save clogging up the board.
There's still a lot of work to do but it should be done soon
Injection Manifold
JD
I've been a bit slack on updates but I see no point in progressively posting every minor detail, .
Other than painting the top cover its all done and I'm now finishing the final install.
This shows the former quad throttle linkage pole now machined for the PCV system.
This is an extension welded under the manifold in the separate manifold vacuum chamber for a PCV fitting.
The vacuum chamber sealed off. The main outlet is in the top cover plate between the front 4 stacks.
This is my own trick system which I also used on my old manifold that is designed to eliminate oil being sucked into the engine via the PCV. It's a common problem with the stock 5.0 PCV design.
The top plate and fuel rails are polished and the manifold painted and ready for install.
.Other than painting the top cover its all done and I'm now finishing the final install.
This shows the former quad throttle linkage pole now machined for the PCV system.
This is an extension welded under the manifold in the separate manifold vacuum chamber for a PCV fitting.
The vacuum chamber sealed off. The main outlet is in the top cover plate between the front 4 stacks.
This is my own trick system which I also used on my old manifold that is designed to eliminate oil being sucked into the engine via the PCV. It's a common problem with the stock 5.0 PCV design.
The top plate and fuel rails are polished and the manifold painted and ready for install.
The injector covers have been welded on although I've since had the front corner of the right cover redone so its indented the same as the left. So I can remove the cover as a total package I located the throttle position sensor an idle speed control plugs under the rear left injector cover and made it so it swivels up to allow these plugs to be easily disconnected.
A brief comparison of the old and the new.
Now bolted on and I'm currently doing the final assembly. The stainless water return tube was a real bitch to form bend. That stuff is strong,
The fuel lines, wiring etc are designed and fitted in such a way that I can easily remove either as a complete setup, if required. I fitted the fuel pressure reg at the rear of the main plate and although it fits fine its location has made access to the rear a tad crowded. Later I may take the opportunity to re locate it to free up this area.
Since this pic was taken I have altered the fuel pressure lines so they crossover and connect on the opposing side so as to avoid kinks forming. You can also see the rear head water outlets I use that feed back to the water pump so as to avoid any rear hots spots. The sensor plumbed into # 4 inlet is the air temp sensor.
The brake vacuum and 4wd selection vacuum line pick up from the separate vacuum chamber under the manifold. Vacuum sensing for the fuel pressure reg comes from a fitting via the main plate into the boxed plenum area.
I'll have to get some simple stack covers as if I now drop anything down a stack I'm in deep trouble, .
Tonight I refitted most of the front accessories etc.
Hopefully, time permitting I may get to firing it up this weekend and if all goes well I will then finish the top cover.
JD
A brief comparison of the old and the new.
Now bolted on and I'm currently doing the final assembly. The stainless water return tube was a real bitch to form bend. That stuff is strong,
The fuel lines, wiring etc are designed and fitted in such a way that I can easily remove either as a complete setup, if required. I fitted the fuel pressure reg at the rear of the main plate and although it fits fine its location has made access to the rear a tad crowded. Later I may take the opportunity to re locate it to free up this area.
Since this pic was taken I have altered the fuel pressure lines so they crossover and connect on the opposing side so as to avoid kinks forming. You can also see the rear head water outlets I use that feed back to the water pump so as to avoid any rear hots spots. The sensor plumbed into # 4 inlet is the air temp sensor.
The brake vacuum and 4wd selection vacuum line pick up from the separate vacuum chamber under the manifold. Vacuum sensing for the fuel pressure reg comes from a fitting via the main plate into the boxed plenum area.
I'll have to get some simple stack covers as if I now drop anything down a stack I'm in deep trouble,
. Tonight I refitted most of the front accessories etc.
Hopefully, time permitting I may get to firing it up this weekend and if all goes well I will then finish the top cover.
JD
For those wondering what has been happening with this project.
There's been a few issues since I last updated and I've had to do a few house jobs, which delayed progress.
More testing indicated that it was a bad air leak and not a fuel supply issue via the cut fuel rail causing the lean mixture, but I have since linked them together.
It turned out to be misaligned inlet manifold gaskets. When I had lowered the intake onto the valley, two rear cap screw heads on the vacuum chamber cover came in contact with the gasket overlap and consequently as it was lowered further they pulled the gaskets down at the rear ports. Stupid design.
But after fixing this the a/f ratio gauge still indicated an air leak. I eventually found porus pin holes in the welding on the front section of the cover box. I had decided to test fill the cover box with water and upon blasting air around its perimeter it turned into a friggin bubble bath. I took it back 3 times before it was finally made airtight. Sheeeeeeez, nothing I could do about others workmanship.
But again on startup the a/f gauge still showed signs of a very minor air leak at idle. Aaaaaaagh about now I was getting frustrated to say the least, . A big problem was that none of the air leaks made tell tail noises so it was impossible to ascertain where they were and access was not ideal. But I traced this one to a rear injector housing base. Turned out that this section of the top main plate was not absolutely perfectly flat so when this injector housing was bolted to the plate it had tilted a few thou.
During all these shenanigans I did several test drives and even with the a/f ratio not being perfect the results are just friggin awesome, so I definitely wanted to retain this injection setup.
But it would have to be super reliable for long trips and after a lot of thought I concluded that this current setup was prone to developing further air leaks due to the many bolt holes and gaskets so the only answer was to completely remake it to eliminate this possibility.
There was no point in thinking about it, so once again I've been burning the midnight oil,
This time I used alloy spacers so they could be fully welded to each housing and then welded to the top main plate as this would eliminate 32 bolts and 16 small gaskets. Also by using a thicker main plate its sides could be machined for an O ring seal to get rid of the former 12mm square bar edging and its 12 bolts.
I made 4 alloy spacers and precut them to match the bore of each injector housing but cut them just short of coming through the top. I then fitted 2 small locating pins in each so the welder guy couldn't screw up their location on the housings, Thankfully. I've now found a young guy who is a gun alloy welder.
After they were welded to the housings I then positioned the top plate on the 4 housings and using the pre drilled centre holes as a marker drilled the main plate and bolted each injector housing to the plate so they could be welded in the exact position.
Fully welded and the top and bottom surfaces faced.
Again using the centre guide holes I then cut through the main plate and the remaining bit in the injector housing spacers. Also I made access to the inner base flange bolts via a common cover machined into the main plate rather than use the former brass plugs.
The top manifold is now a complete one piece alloy unit without any bolts or gaskets, . The only holes are the main 8 plus 2 for the PCV and fuel pressure vacuum brass fittings. The three central access holes are blanked by a sealed cover and the main cover bolt holes are blind. The O ring groove is much better as it only takes seconds to feed a strip of O ring rope into the edging.
Initially, I wasn't too happy about doing it all again but it was a wise move as this setup will be infallible.
JD
There's been a few issues since I last updated and I've had to do a few house jobs, which delayed progress.
More testing indicated that it was a bad air leak and not a fuel supply issue via the cut fuel rail causing the lean mixture, but I have since linked them together.
It turned out to be misaligned inlet manifold gaskets. When I had lowered the intake onto the valley, two rear cap screw heads on the vacuum chamber cover came in contact with the gasket overlap and consequently as it was lowered further they pulled the gaskets down at the rear ports. Stupid design.
But after fixing this the a/f ratio gauge still indicated an air leak. I eventually found porus pin holes in the welding on the front section of the cover box. I had decided to test fill the cover box with water and upon blasting air around its perimeter it turned into a friggin bubble bath. I took it back 3 times before it was finally made airtight. Sheeeeeeez, nothing I could do about others workmanship.
But again on startup the a/f gauge still showed signs of a very minor air leak at idle. Aaaaaaagh about now I was getting frustrated to say the least,
. A big problem was that none of the air leaks made tell tail noises so it was impossible to ascertain where they were and access was not ideal. But I traced this one to a rear injector housing base. Turned out that this section of the top main plate was not absolutely perfectly flat so when this injector housing was bolted to the plate it had tilted a few thou.During all these shenanigans I did several test drives and even with the a/f ratio not being perfect the results are just friggin awesome,
so I definitely wanted to retain this injection setup. But it would have to be super reliable for long trips and after a lot of thought I concluded that this current setup was prone to developing further air leaks due to the many bolt holes and gaskets so the only answer was to completely remake it to eliminate this possibility.
There was no point in thinking about it, so once again I've been burning the midnight oil,
This time I used alloy spacers so they could be fully welded to each housing and then welded to the top main plate as this would eliminate 32 bolts and 16 small gaskets. Also by using a thicker main plate its sides could be machined for an O ring seal to get rid of the former 12mm square bar edging and its 12 bolts.
I made 4 alloy spacers and precut them to match the bore of each injector housing but cut them just short of coming through the top. I then fitted 2 small locating pins in each so the welder guy couldn't screw up their location on the housings,
Thankfully. I've now found a young guy who is a gun alloy welder.
After they were welded to the housings I then positioned the top plate on the 4 housings and using the pre drilled centre holes as a marker drilled the main plate and bolted each injector housing to the plate so they could be welded in the exact position.
Fully welded and the top and bottom surfaces faced.
Again using the centre guide holes I then cut through the main plate and the remaining bit in the injector housing spacers. Also I made access to the inner base flange bolts via a common cover machined into the main plate rather than use the former brass plugs.
The top manifold is now a complete one piece alloy unit without any bolts or gaskets,
. The only holes are the main 8 plus 2 for the PCV and fuel pressure vacuum brass fittings. The three central access holes are blanked by a sealed cover and the main cover bolt holes are blind. The O ring groove is much better as it only takes seconds to feed a strip of O ring rope into the edging. Initially, I wasn't too happy about doing it all again but it was a wise move as this setup will be infallible.
JD
FINAL UPDATE .
The 8 trumpet injection project is finished. .
I've been doing a lot of miles but so far I haven't completed a cruising mpg test.
I also added a 70mm US Accufab throttle body and the only issue occurs at wide open throttle (WOT) but its a good sign. My engine currently uses 19lb injectors and the air/fuel gauge is showing that as the injection is flowing a sh*tload more air at WOT the 19's flow limit is maxing out. It really needs 24lb injectors to obtain the full additional HP increase at WOT,
Considering the flow limit of 19lb injectors is good for 320hp its obviously not to shabby for a low compression engine. It hits the factory 6250 rev limiter way too easy, and makes me wonder what a beefed up bottom end and rods with no limiter would be like. Hmmmmmm. But realistically the object has been to get the engine to operate at peak efficiency for effortless overall cruising with good mpg etc etc.
But it was not hard to decide to upgrade to 24's and the associated electronics, .
The easiest option was to get a mass air flow (MAF) sensor recalibrated for 24's, which would then work with my current ECU, consequently a 24lb recalibrated 73mm C&L MAF and 24lb injectors are on their way from the US.
Alternatively, the only Ford ECU that is internally programmed for 24's was a special unit used in the 93 Cobra. As this factory 24lb ECU would be infallible I tracked down a Cobra ECU with matching MAF and they're also on their way from the US . Whichever system I don't use will be the spare.
The current ECU air/fuel ratio is perfect when cruising and I intend to do a mpg test run to compare both options. Cruising mpg should not really alter with an injector upgrade and at this stage I'm tending to favour using the full Cobra kit. Should also be interesting at WOT with the upgraded injector flow, .
It's been a real brain teaser and took a lot longer to make than I originally anticipated although I did decide to redo it.
The 8 trumpet injection project is finished. .
I've been doing a lot of miles but so far I haven't completed a cruising mpg test.
I also added a 70mm US Accufab throttle body and the only issue occurs at wide open throttle (WOT) but its a good sign. My engine currently uses 19lb injectors and the air/fuel gauge is showing that as the injection is flowing a sh*tload more air at WOT the 19's flow limit is maxing out. It really needs 24lb injectors to obtain the full additional HP increase at WOT,
Considering the flow limit of 19lb injectors is good for 320hp its obviously not to shabby for a low compression engine. It hits the factory 6250 rev limiter way too easy,
and makes me wonder what a beefed up bottom end and rods with no limiter would be like. Hmmmmmm. But realistically the object has been to get the engine to operate at peak efficiency for effortless overall cruising with good mpg etc etc.But it was not hard to decide to upgrade to 24's and the associated electronics,
. The easiest option was to get a mass air flow (MAF) sensor recalibrated for 24's, which would then work with my current ECU, consequently a 24lb recalibrated 73mm C&L MAF and 24lb injectors are on their way from the US.
Alternatively, the only Ford ECU that is internally programmed for 24's was a special unit used in the 93 Cobra. As this factory 24lb ECU would be infallible I tracked down a Cobra ECU with matching MAF and they're also on their way from the US
. Whichever system I don't use will be the spare.The current ECU air/fuel ratio is perfect when cruising and I intend to do a mpg test run to compare both options. Cruising mpg should not really alter with an injector upgrade and at this stage I'm tending to favour using the full Cobra kit. Should also be interesting at WOT with the upgraded injector flow,
.It's been a real brain teaser and took a lot longer to make than I originally anticipated although I did decide to redo it.
