bmason8159
New member
Well Sir. I, do in fact own the internet. Totally offended and payment for internet access due. 488 for 265 would be fine if you don’t use the hwy or freeway.
Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build
- Thread starter gamefreakgc
- Start date
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I use this gear calculator - Gear Ratio Calculator.
It need a lot of data to get it to spit out numbers so I can help with the short of it. I'll assume your highway speeds are at 70 MPH (adjust for your locality):
4.10 gears - 2240 RPM at 70 MPH
4.54 gears - 2480 RPM
4.88 gears - 2660 RPM
5.29 gears - 2880 RPM
I've been driving around with O/D off around 60ish MPH at around 2900 RPM on the highway to see if I can stand the noise. The weird thing it's actually quieter than at 2200... my exhaust drone a bit there. It's a good way to see if you can do a long drive with higher RPM's.
It need a lot of data to get it to spit out numbers so I can help with the short of it. I'll assume your highway speeds are at 70 MPH (adjust for your locality):
4.10 gears - 2240 RPM at 70 MPH
4.54 gears - 2480 RPM
4.88 gears - 2660 RPM
5.29 gears - 2880 RPM
I've been driving around with O/D off around 60ish MPH at around 2900 RPM on the highway to see if I can stand the noise. The weird thing it's actually quieter than at 2200... my exhaust drone a bit there. It's a good way to see if you can do a long drive with higher RPM's.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I finally got my stainless steel braided brake lines that had been backordered. Almost stripped one of the compression nuts but was able to get it with some vice grips. Upon taking off my old Toyota ones that were visibly damaged, I noticed something interesting:
The stock lines are also braided.
The stock lines are also braided.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
It's some sort of metal, I cannot tell as mine have aged and been exposed to the elements. Almost looks like copper with the red tint, though that could just be rust.
Also forgot how hard it is to bleed these brakes. I could not get the air out of the front right line until we bled it again with the engine running. The extra force from the brake booster is enough to clear it out.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Had a chance to drive it more on the way to work. The brake pedal is even firmer than before, I think this is going to be as close to new as I could possibly get. As a recap, I've ranked the braking improvements I've done from best to mediocre.
Happy braking all
- Tundra Brake Upgrade - Adding more braking capacity and ability to go stupid fast and not warp my brakes
- Bleeding the brakes - This is a game changer if done right, an absolute let down if done wrong. This is why you hear of a lot of "mushy pedal after TBU" comments on the forums.
- Stainless Steel braided lines - Harder to install than the Tundra brakes but helped increase braking power with less flex in the lines
- Pulling the e-brake - Seriously, just pull the e-brake all the way tight once a month. Instant braking power increase as it adjusts the rear drums
- Adjusting brake pedal play - Can move the stop light switch further inward and remove extra play in the pedal. Less play = less pedal travel needed to stop
Happy braking all
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
My transmission started making some really awful noises about 4 weeks ago. The torque converter was clanking with every rotation and at a stop it was a real racket. Dropped the pan and found this:
Photo doesn't quite show it all, the cloth is covered in metal slivers up to 5mm long. On top of that the entire fluid is grey. Not burnt black, grey from small metal particles. Needless to say, my transmission is toast. I sourced a used one from a 4WD as Toyota no longer makes remanufactured transmissions for a 98 4x4. This 'new' transmission only had 139K miles on it, I think I was really blessed to find it and only cost $525. So the journey begins.
After a few weeks of up and down health from long Covid, finally got the sucker out with the help from my beautiful wife. She's really short so fits under the truck much easier than me. The photo makes it look like my 4Runner is levitating.
Now I'm in the process of moving over my modified valve body. Today I busted the old one open and to my shock and surprise, one of the TransGo kit springs shattered! I called TransGo and they are sending me a new one at no charge but I wonder what went wrong? I never noticed any different with the shifts so it wasn't a critical part, just very surprising.
Photo doesn't quite show it all, the cloth is covered in metal slivers up to 5mm long. On top of that the entire fluid is grey. Not burnt black, grey from small metal particles. Needless to say, my transmission is toast. I sourced a used one from a 4WD as Toyota no longer makes remanufactured transmissions for a 98 4x4. This 'new' transmission only had 139K miles on it, I think I was really blessed to find it and only cost $525. So the journey begins.
After a few weeks of up and down health from long Covid, finally got the sucker out with the help from my beautiful wife. She's really short so fits under the truck much easier than me. The photo makes it look like my 4Runner is levitating.
Now I'm in the process of moving over my modified valve body. Today I busted the old one open and to my shock and surprise, one of the TransGo kit springs shattered! I called TransGo and they are sending me a new one at no charge but I wonder what went wrong? I never noticed any different with the shifts so it wasn't a critical part, just very surprising.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
This rig was abused pretty bad by the previous owner. When I got it the transmission fluid was burnt (after he burnt the last transmission and replaced it) and the engine oil was so sludgy the tech couldn't get the oil to drain out. So I'm not shocked both the engine and the transmission have failed.
So a spring broke and your transmission ate it. Interesting in deed. Are these aftermarket spring known to go like that? Or you just have the luck like me...
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
I think the spring was not a factor in the transmission failure as it was just the fluid actuator spring for 3rd gear and it was 1 of 2, the 2nd one was working just fine and allowed normal function. My torque converter has metal pieces clanging around in it though and the inside of the transmission is absolutely blasted with fine metal flakes.
brillo_76
Elite Member
That's never good. Something broke and got ground up. Bogus. Well at least your on your way to getting the rig fixed up and back together.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
'New' transmission is in and it drives like it should again. The vehicle rolls and accelerates better with less throttle. My power and MPG's had been slowly eroding over the past few years and I never could figure out why and now I think I know. I suspect that my MPG's will climb back up without all that extra resistance from the failing transmission. It was not as hard as my engine swap a few years ago but this was a real chore for me because of my health. I couldn't work on it for more than 3 hours or so at a time so it took 3 weeks from start to finish.
I decided to go with AMSOIL full synthetic transmission fluid instead of Royal Purple this time. I don't blame the Royal Purple for the failure but clearly it was not good enough to keep the transmission in good health.
I decided to go with AMSOIL full synthetic transmission fluid instead of Royal Purple this time. I don't blame the Royal Purple for the failure but clearly it was not good enough to keep the transmission in good health.
shadow247
New member
I use my Ebrake every single time I park, even on flat ground. If someone bumps the car in park without the e-brake on, there's a chance it could knock it out of park and roll it down a hill. I have paid that insurance claim out... Would have been a simply bumper job, but it totalled a really nice 4runner.
My brakes work fantastic. I read this tip before, and it never dawned on my why I never had any complaints about braking power.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
With the weather improving, I finally got rid of the one spot of rust on my 4Runner, the rear drums. Before:
Then after a wire wheel treatment and some Rust-oleum paint:
Then after a wire wheel treatment and some Rust-oleum paint:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Oh my, that's so rusty. How can you stand it....
Being drums get warm on braking. I don't think the paint will stay. I know mine didn't and I think I used high temp paint....:/
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I knew those of you that deal with REAL rust would get a kick out of this ha! I'm spoiled and I know it.
I'm not too worried about the paint lasting as I'm with you, I think the heat will eventually cause it to flake off. But event with some flaking paint it'll still look better than it was before and this was an easy job.
