"Jitters" 2.0 Build/Restoration Thread

[4Running Daily]

Pretty sure you just have a dirty connection somewhere. You can actually take jumper cables straight to the starter and double check that the starter itself works.

 

[89FourRunner]

There is a fix for this, and it is specifically for the 3zve coupled with a manual transmission.

Go here and look for POST #42, then read the entire post, and then at the end of the post you will see the "alternate wiring method" to simply run one wire with an inline fuse to the battery. Use that method.



RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner dlx Build-up - Page 3 - YotaTech Forums

Hopefully it makes sense - but if not, ask questions here.

This is most likely the fix to your problem, and it is very very easy to do yourself. It involves you cutting a single wire, and running that wire directly to the battery positive terminal with a 30a inline fuse.

The mystery click that comes and goes regardless of a strong battery is due to a wiring flaw that sends a weak voltage to the relay, and the starter therefore wont start. You just get a click as if you had a weak battery (even though you dont).

Running the pictured 12v line directly to the battery cuts out many feet of wiring that I believe connects in an unorthodox way to the ignition system. It ensures the proper and strong voltage hits the relay everytime when you turn the key to crank - and has been the fix for many who have had the issue of "sometimes starts instantly and strong, and sometimes I have just a click or no click no matter how many times I try".

 

[1985taylor1925]

Thanks all for the responses.

Yes. A relay will click if its working. Doesnt necessarily mean the relay is bad though..

A relay is basically just a switch, that is turned on by another switch.... So you flip on a lightswitch in your cab, triggers the relay, then the relay turns on the lights.

So, it could be the relay, or the source of the power that triggers it. This would be a good time to pull out your multimeter and make sure power is getting to the relay.

(Cant really answer your specific question without checking on my own.. But that wont be until tomorrow afternoon unless someone else can chime in.)

IMO

I do have a multimeter, though Ive never used it. How would I go about checking the relay?

Pretty sure you just have a dirty connection somewhere. You can actually take jumper cables straight to the starter and double check that the starter itself works.

I dont know where there would be a dirty connection, as Ive replaced the starter, and battery, and changed the battery terminal connectors to make sure the contact is good.

There is a fix for this, and it is specifically for the 3zve coupled with a manual transmission.

Go here and look for POST #42, then read the entire post, and then at the end of the post you will see the "alternate wiring method" to simply run one wire with an inline fuse to the battery. Use that method.



RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner dlx Build-up - Page 3 - YotaTech Forums

Hopefully it makes sense - but if not, ask questions here.

This is most likely the fix to your problem, and it is very very easy to do yourself. It involves you cutting a single wire, and running that wire directly to the battery positive terminal with a 30a inline fuse.

The mystery click that comes and goes regardless of a strong battery is due to a wiring flaw that sends a weak voltage to the relay, and the starter therefore wont start. You just get a click as if you had a weak battery (even though you dont).

Running the pictured 12v line directly to the battery cuts out many feet of wiring that I believe connects in an unorthodox way to the ignition system. It ensures the proper and strong voltage hits the relay everytime when you turn the key to crank - and has been the fix for many who have had the issue of "sometimes starts instantly and strong, and sometimes I have just a click or no click no matter how many times I try".

So I tried this. No change. I did it exactly as shown in the post. 30a inline fuse to the battery. I dont have intermittent starting issues though. It simply wont start, ever. Even trying to jump it. But everything else on the truck is getting power from the battery. And I can push start it.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Pretty sure you just have a dirty connection somewhere. You can actually take jumper cables straight to the starter and double check that the starter itself works.

I am planning on trying this. Its just such a pain getting the starter out. Its a reman unit from autozone, and Ive read that they can be garbage

 

[4Running Daily]

"Jitters" 2.0 Build/Restoration Thread

I am planning on trying this. Its just such a pain getting the starter out. Its a reman unit from autozone, and Ive read that they can be garbage

Jump it while it's still mounted to the motor

 

[89FourRunner]

Sorry you wasted your time with the wiring - but at least you eont have to worry about that issue in the future.

 

[85RedRunner]

I looked under my hood yesterday and I dont have that relay in the same spot as you (rebuilt 22RE).. I'll snap a pic of that area later and you can circle it if you see it. Then I'll connect the multimeter and show you how it should look.

But basically you need to find the trigger wire. Put red on that, black on a ground.. Then do whatever it is you're doing that "should" trigger the relay (ignition?) .. It should then read some sort of voltage.. My guess would be ~12v.

IMO

 

[1985taylor1925]

I looked under my hood yesterday and I dont have that relay in the same spot as you (rebuilt 22RE).. I'll snap a pic of that area later and you can circle it if you see it. Then I'll connect the multimeter and show you how it should look.

But basically you need to find the trigger wire. Put red on that, black on a ground.. Then do whatever it is you're doing that "should" trigger the relay (ignition?) .. It should then read some sort of voltage.. My guess would be ~12v.

IMO

Sounds good, thanks. My 88 has the 3.0l so that might explain the relay on mine. I also just pulled my starter off and tried following a YouTube video to troubleshoot if it's bad. I couldn't get anything to happen so I don't know if I'm just doing something wrong, or if it's shot. I'm taking it in to autozone today to have them test it

 

[1985taylor1925]

I looked under my hood yesterday and I dont have that relay in the same spot as you (rebuilt 22RE).. I'll snap a pic of that area later and you can circle it if you see it. Then I'll connect the multimeter and show you how it should look.

But basically you need to find the trigger wire. Put red on that, black on a ground.. Then do whatever it is you're doing that "should" trigger the relay (ignition?) .. It should then read some sort of voltage.. My guess would be ~12v.

IMO

Im gonna try this today. I had the starter tested and autozone told me its good. So based on the last paragraph from this picture . . .





To test if Im getting power to the relay, I put the red on the first wire he mentions, and then I put the black on the second (thick black wire) he mentions. Does that sound like what is being described here?

 

[1985taylor1925]

Well guys, I still cant get my truck started. Really, this is just getting ridiculous. So let me recap what all I've done so far to try and resolve the issue.

- Replaced starter
- Replaced battery and terminals
- Replaced relay
- Done the direct wire mod shown above (although, according to the post I shouldnt even need to do it on my truck, as he says the wiring issue was resolved on the 88 with 3.0L, which is what I have)

Im getting power to everything in the truck. So the battery connection is good. But nothing happens when I turn the key. No click, nothing. The starter, solenoid, and relay are all good. I know this, because with the key in the ignition I can manually press the relay contacts together and the truck cranks right up and starts no problem.


So, in continuing to try and diagnose the issue, what do you guys think? Is the issue in the ignition? Or maybe in the wiring between the ignition and relay?