Joelzy's 96 5SPD(daily) & 5VZ block-up rebuild

[phattyduck]

to be continued...

First, I don't know why I had never seen/noticed the bottom end of a 5vz... the siamesed main caps are awesome. Now I can see why the 5vz can be built for serious power if desired. For the rest of us, that just means awesome reliability.

My first thought is that there is something special for the drive, like a triple-square vs. dual hex that might be screwing you up on those head bolts. I have never seen anyone have a problem with a standard 12-point. Hmmm... (I did have to buy a special spark plug socket for my wife's old Mini, so it does happen, I guess)

The threads in the block are metric, it would be weird for the bolt manufacturer to go with an SAE head.

Good luck figuring it out!

-Charlie

 

[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 5VZ rebuild

Sorry, on my phone and can’t figure out how to get the right url on flickr mobile but this is in case you guys thought i was crazy.

This is a weird replacement bolt vs original comparison

Tried a socket that gripped better, still no luck, ordered new bolts and picking up soon to try and get the motor complete today

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[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 5VZ rebuild

Be wary of important bolts if they look different from what you pull off. Glad i got this situated but what a pain

Had to extract the torqued bolts

But really made some progress after i got them out. Made sure to mark the headbolts after torqued to 25ft lbs in order to assure the proper angle on the last 2 steps.

And finally

Few more gaskets and the new tbelt kit and we should be ready to bring er home to swap in.
One weird thing was the set screw for the left bank exhaust cam’s placement. At tdc, the screw is straight down and completely inaccessible. While you have a little room to turn before moving the only valves with a piston up, there isnt enough to get it out so we have to wait until the new timing belt is on, turn the entire engine over together far enough to pull the bolt out and then we can seal that head up. [emoji849]

Note: Some of the cheaper oil pumps come with the pickup gasket and block o-ring but the Aisin does not so back to the dealer we go.

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[Joelzy]

Looking to put in a bunch of work tomorrow.
Been cleaning parts as best as i can

For anyone interested, i’ll probably be into the rebuild for about $1500 said and done. That is all machine work, every new part(pumps and whatnot), gaskets/seals and a second-hand hoist. Not bad considering i plan to drive this thing to 250-300K



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[Lamer]

B
And finally

my hero, this looks so clean

 

[Joelzy]

my hero, this looks so clean

Thanks, not as clean as i’d have liked but the hot tank only did so much for the aluminum and i wasn’t into scrubbing it a whole lot more with all the work left to be done.

Update: always something... got the oil pump on and realized my pickup tube was missing. Really frustrating considering i dont remember taking it off at all. So im chalking it up to “maybe the PO stole it for the swap explaining why neither oilpan was sealed”

So i’ll be pulling the sludge motor out and taking that back as well as the oil cooler which just has a blockoff plate currently and the new motor mounts.

The warehouse forgot to include the front seal, idler and roller pulleys when they pulled my order so i’ll be waiting on those as well.

Grand total is closer to 1650 now


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[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 5VZ rebuild

This weekend was dumb.

Went to a PickNPull for headlight buckets, a better timing cover and potentially a driver front seat. No seat to be found but got the rest and went ahead and pulled an oil pickup.

Got to the shop and it didn’t fit with my pan. Wth, ok, must be a 2wd pickup. Mind you, i should have just researched it but i didnt.
Went home and pulled the sludge motor up just enough to get the pickup out. It matched the PNP pickup that didnt fit the pan. So finally i realized that the PO mustve swapped the pan and pickup onto the sludge motor as it was a 2wd before. So the good pan and pickup were on sludgey and the original motor had a 2wd pan and missing pickup.
Doesnt explain why the 2wd runner at PickNPull had a 4wd pan but im done guessing.

Went back out there this morning to grab a hitch w/a harness(that needed a breaker bar to remove) and decided to grab the pan while i was at it. Hitch with wiring was 12 bucks and the pan was 11 so it was worth the 50 mile trek 2 days in a row.

Thanks to this guy for all the parts and hardware for a very reasonable price. Probably be back once i get into vaccuum lines and whatnot

TLDR: 2wd and 4wd oil pans and pickups are very different. I know that now and realize the deep part is even on the opposite end of the pan. If you look at diagrams its pretty obvious but i never realized it as ive only looked at the sludge motor in the runner.

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[swelleriffic]

I didn't mean to "like" your misfortunate pick-n-pull weekend, but I just found this thread and your work looks awesome. I'm in E. Texas (Longview) and if I ever need a machine shop I know where to go! Great job so far.

 

[Joelzy]

I didn't mean to "like" your misfortunate pick-n-pull weekend, but I just found this thread and your work looks awesome. I'm in E. Texas (Longview) and if I ever need a machine shop I know where to go! Great job so far.

hahahaha thank you!
It was a pain and hot as hell but worked out and got a lot of good stuff for about 40 bucks so, now that its over, no complaints.
I highly recommend Dennis Wells, i drove down there more times than i should have and i know its a much much longer hike for you but it was well worth it for the work they did and the very reasonable price.

 

[phattyduck]

TLDR: 2wd and 4wd oil pans and pickups are very different. I know that now and realize the deep part is even on the opposite end of the pan. If you look at diagrams its pretty obvious but i never realized it as ive only looked at the sludge motor in the runner.

All 4Runners have "4WD" pans. PreRunner Tacos too. 5-lug Tacoma's only have the '2WD' pan (also T100's, but different story there).

-Charlie

 

[Joelzy]

All 4Runners have "4WD" pans. PreRunner Tacos too. 5-lug Tacoma's only have the '2WD' pan (also T100's, but different story there).

-Charlie

Ok so i'm not crazy then, the swap must have just come from a taco and they swapped pans. Thank you for the clarification i thought i was losing it.

 

[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 5VZ rebuild

Welcome to tonight’s episode of “Learn From my mistakes” with Joel the Toyota noob



Got the pickup and pan situated then flipped her over to start on timing

Got it completely ready for the belt before i realized something wasn’t quite right.

With this pin facing down, the marks on the cam gears face down when timed :|

Well thats not right... they should be facing straight up, 180 degrees from where they are, which would line up with the notch in the timing cover.

Update: ok so they weren’t in the wrong heads they were just upside down. The machine shop aligned the double dots when in order for the cam gears to line up TDC they needed to be aligned to the single dots.

Moral of the story: make sure your pins are facing upward when you put the cams in. If not, they are assbackerds

Got it all put back together and torqued with the single dots lined up and the pins upward.
Now officially timed

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[Joelzy]

Got it back together up to the plenum and VCs and brought it home yesterday!

Pretty exciting and also picked up this gem from a local on CL.

Love the analog incline and alt like this.

motor is around 1700 now, replacing all the sensors adds up but didn't want to have to do it later on some of the harder to get to parts.

 

[4Reak Show]

Dude. If you don't use those gauges lemme know. I call dibs on them for the right price. Killer addition.

 

[Joelzy]

Dude. If you don't use those gauges lemme know. I call dibs on them for the right price. Killer addition.

will do but i gotta warn ya, i definitely think they'll be going in the 4runner.
the first time i saw them i knew i'd own a set. it was just a matter of waiting to find one.

 

[4Reak Show]

will do but i gotta warn ya, i definitely think they'll be going in the 4runner.
the first time i saw them i knew i'd own a set. it was just a matter of waiting to find one.

Yeah I hear you. I'm in the same boat. Tough to come by these days. Post up when you get them mounted! Very cool addition, if even for a novelty

 

[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 5VZ rebuild

Due to rain delays i can’t pull the old motor yet but i can start cleaning the heck out of this thing.

Seems to be seeping between the trans and transfer case so i’ll be splitting and resealing it once its degreased a bit.

Any suggestions on anything else i should look for? Had new oil in it that i just drained and the shifter bushing looks new.
PO bought a cheapo clutch that i’ll be throwing out for an OE as well as a throwout bearing

Also, this build is still pretty cheap and i'm considering a supercharger to change that. is it worth it? TRD, magnuson or which brand is preferred?

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[Joelzy]

Simple green wasn’t cutting it, purple power to the rescue.
Got most of the junk off this thing finally and though i didnt get a pic, i split the transfer case off and replaced those seals. Might still do the output shaft seals although they are new but homeboy used the cheapest stuff possible.

Hoping to pull the sludge motor out this week and continue cleaning and if all goes well, i’ll be able to install the clutch, mate the longblock to the trans and shove it all in this weekend. Might be wishful thinking but im not too far from it if im not missing throwout lever parts.

New OE clutch kit came in and the TO bearing has a clip with it which i am assuming is the only thing i need to hold the lever on it. Havent checked yet though.
Also ordered all the oil for the motor, trans, transfer case and diffs while i was at it... ouch grand total will be right around 2k once i order the radiator and lower hose.


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[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 5VZ rebuild

While waiting for some stuff to come in i decided to go ahead and check the front trans input shaft seal.
Had completely overlooked it while replacing the rest of the trans/transfer case seals but im glad i went back and pulled the plate to check it because it was the original seal and a good amount of it was stuck to the inside edge of the plate.

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[Joelzy]

Joelzy's 5VZ rebuild

Alrighty guys and gals, I yanked the sludge, attempted-swap motor out last night and I'm about ready to install the rebuilt motor, trans and transfer case.

You might tell me if I'm crazy here but this is the plan:

Bolt the motor and trans together, but leave the TC off for now. I'm taking off the core support and condenser anyhow to replace so i can hopefully swing the whole thing in the front without too much trouble assuming the hoist and load leveler do their jobs. Issue with this might be the hoist rolling smoothly with the extra weight but i won't know until i start.
worst case, i bail on that and rent a trans jack to put it in afterwards.

thoughts?
also, for anyone who has done this or similar, anything i need to watch out for or do first?

Found out the motor mounts are different between 2w and 4w so i swapped those and some accessory brackets from the sludge motor. Also made sure to pull off the oil cooler and i'll be resealing it onto the rebuild.

Are there any other things i need to do on the back of the motor before installing?