JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build & Maintenance Thread

[octanejunkie]

I used my trans pump to do a fluid exchange, just pour in new stuff at the same rate it comes out at idle. 2.5 gals of Valvoline Asian high mileage is what I used.
Process was outlined in my 2WD build thread.

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[octanejunkie]

I feel like that's so risky, but hey, you got good results so you can't argue with that. Out of curiosity and not to start a flame war, but what kind of filter was it?

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Wix 51348XP then

I now use the D3 filters from the dealer, they are actually cheaper than Wix

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[brillo_76]

I used my trans pump to do a fluid exchange, just pour in new stuff at the same rate it comes out at idle. 2.5 gals of Valvoline Asian high mileage is what I used.
Process was outlined in my 2WD build thread.

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Yes the transmission pump will pump it out. I like to pump it back in at the same time.



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[Speedy]

Yes the transmission pump will pump it out. I like to pump it back in at the same time.



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If you're pouring it in while the trans is pumping it out at idle, same same right?

 

[JoeT4R]

That works too, just a little more labor over the term. I'd prefer to just swap it all at once and be good for 100K but if you like fiddling with the truck it works out the same I bet.

If I had access to a machine like you did in the past, I'd be all for it. I just don't want to have to pay for someone to do it with a machine.

I used my trans pump to do a fluid exchange, just pour in new stuff at the same rate it comes out at idle. 2.5 gals of Valvoline Asian high mileage is what I used.
Process was outlined in my 2WD build thread.

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This sounds like a good idea that I would be open to trying out. I would just want to ensure I get an accurate reading once everything was done.

Wix 51348XP then

I now use the D3 filters from the dealer, they are actually cheaper than Wix

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Gotcha. That's the tall filter if I recall correctly. I've used that one once before. I've used D3's for the majority of oil changes since owning my truck. Before that it was the D1.

Yes the transmission pump will pump it out. I like to pump it back in at the same time.



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Makes sense.

If you're pouring it in while the trans is pumping it out at idle, same same right?

Makes sense (I think?)

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[JoeT4R]

Annual drain and fill on the transmission. Valvoline MaxLife ATF. After getting it up to operating temps the line was just below the low line on the hot mark. So I'll need to add a bit more to get it up there. Shifts nice and smooth though.

Date: 2/13/23
Mileage: 323,163

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[JoeT4R]

I also snapped some pics of the steering rack while I was draining the transmission fluid. Want to get some input/thoughts on it. Obviously it could benefit from having the bushings replaced, but would that really be my cure all to the leak?

There doesn't seem to be any play in it, at least not when I try to wiggle the tires with it lifted off the ground. I don't think my rack is "bad" but any experience or thoughts are certainly appreciated and welcomed. Pic for reference below.

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[brillo_76]

I like your front license plate..

Mostly, when you have the tires off the ground and you have no ply in the 3 to and 9 o clock positions your tie rod ends are good. If no ply in the 12 and 6 o clock position that be a wheel bearing.

You can not feel the ply in your lower ball joints. So you either you have to measure the ply with a dial indicator, or get into a mileage change interval.

I cant blame you for wanting to change your power steering rack bushings.

If you don't have any leaks or hard to steer, then its probably fine. I just lost an original inner tie rod end at 290k. If you watch the inner tie rod boots, make sure no cracks or holes as they protect the inner tie rod and steering seals.

 

[Speedy]

I can't answer on the steering rack question, but those zip ties need a trim!

LOL

 

[JoeT4R]

I like your front license plate..

Mostly, when you have the tires off the ground and you have no ply in the 3 to and 9 o clock positions your tie rod ends are good. If no ply in the 12 and 6 o clock position that be a wheel bearing.

You can not feel the ply in your lower ball joints. So you either you have to measure the ply with a dial indicator, or get into a mileage change interval.

I cant blame you for wanting to change your power steering rack bushings.

If you don't have any leaks or hard to steer, then its probably fine. I just lost an original inner tie rod end at 290k. If you watch the inner tie rod boots, make sure no cracks or holes as they protect the inner tie rod and steering seals.

No excessive play, at least none that I'm able to detect or feel. It's definitely seeping from those areas where the bushings are, or used to be, lol.

I'm actually running, and I know I'll catch crap for this, Moog inner and outer tie rods. They've held up well over the years, no issues to report. (Knock on wood)

I can't answer on the steering rack question, but those zip ties need a trim!

LOL

I'll give them a good trim. Lol. Did that years ago and never messed with them again.

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[brillo_76]

No excessive play, at least none that I'm able to detect or feel. It's definitely seeping from those areas where the bushings are, or used to be, lol.

I'm actually running, and I know I'll catch crap for this, Moog inner and outer tie rods. They've held up well over the years, no issues to report. (Knock on wood)

I put Moogs inner and outers on Tetanus 1. My Lower ball joints are Moog. I have checked them after 60k miles and mine are still in spec. My outer tie rods and lower ball joint have over 60 pushing 70K now. Granted, I run stock tire size and do not off road. I even have that on new napa cv axles too.

I like grease fittings, it just me. Now, I would replace the bolts with that spiker engineering proved work the best.

I do say though with the lower ball joints, Its best to check them from time to time for play. Tim has a video out on how to check lower ball joint play as that is just a good thing to do.

Folks running oversized tires and off roading and lifted are putting more stress on those ball joints. So that's why they change them after so many miles and really keep in eye on them as that is major known weak spot.

That's just my thought on it.

 

[Bad Luck]

No excessive play, at least none that I'm able to detect or feel. It's definitely seeping from those areas where the bushings are, or used to be, lol.

I'm actually running, and I know I'll catch crap for this, Moog inner and outer tie rods. They've held up well over the years, no issues to report. (Knock on wood)



I'll give them a good trim. Lol. Did that years ago and never messed with them again.

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I’d clean it off and check it in a couple days. It looks like it’s coming from where the hard lines input into the steering rack and dripping down from there. I don’t see how any fluid would be leaking from where the bushings are. They’re a dry bushing and don’t seal against fluid.

 

[FD7683]

Want to get some input/thoughts on the bushings. There doesn't seem to be any play in it, at least not when I try to wiggle the tires with it lifted off the ground.

If your steering is a bit mushy when turning the wheel or if you experience mild wandering on the road you most likely need to replace the rack bushings. Not a hard job to perform but allow a good amount of time to replace them. I found the vertical bushing to be the hardest to get out so I grabbed a drill and made some holes to relieve the pressure - it came out with a little hammering and a socket. I used Energy Suspension bushings on my truck and they are doing great. Some owners are not a fan of road feedback on the steering wheel so rubber bushings are also available.

 

[JoeT4R]

I put Moogs inner and outers on Tetanus 1. My Lower ball joints are Moog. I have checked them after 60k miles and mine are still in spec. My outer tie rods and lower ball joint have over 60 pushing 70K now. Granted, I run stock tire size and do not off road. I even have that on new napa cv axles too.

I like grease fittings, it just me. Now, I would replace the bolts with that spiker engineering proved work the best.

I do say though with the lower ball joints, Its best to check them from time to time for play. Tim has a video out on how to check lower ball joint play as that is just a good thing to do.

Folks running oversized tires and off roading and lifted are putting more stress on those ball joints. So that's why they change them after so many miles and really keep in eye on them as that is major known weak spot.

That's just my thought on it.

I'm running OEM LBJ's. Last time those were replaced was in 2015 I think. I do run 33's and I am lifted. No wheeling these days but I have over the years. I will look into that video you suggested about checking for play with them, I'd be interested in knowing where they stand after all this time.

I’d clean it off and check it in a couple days. It looks like it’s coming from where the hard lines input into the steering rack and dripping down from there. I don’t see how any fluid would be leaking from where the bushings are. They’re a dry bushing and don’t seal against fluid.

Good idea. I'll do that tomorrow morning and monitor it and see what happens. If it's coming from the hard lines, does that mean I need to replace the lines or do they have like an o-ring or something that's a simple fix?

If your steering is a bit mushy when turning the wheel or if you experience mild wandering on the road you most likely need to replace the rack bushings. Not a hard job to perform but allow a good amount of time to replace them. I found the vertical bushing to be the hardest to get out so I grabbed a drill and made some holes to relieve the pressure - it came out with a little hammering and a socket. I used Energy Suspension bushings on my truck and they are doing great. Some owners are not a fan of road feedback on the steering wheel so rubber bushings are also available.

It's always been "mushy" or "squishy" but it's not sloppy. Prior to installing a steering extension (pre body lift) it definitely felt loose. Like grossly loose. I'm totally okay with road feedback from polyurethane bushings. I'll look into the energy suspension kit. That's what I would what to go with. I think I have their sway bar bushing kit lying around in one of my tool boxes right now.... which reminds me! Lol.

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[Bad Luck]

There is an o ring on each line (if I remember correctly), but when a rack is leaking in that area it’s usually coming from the steering input rather than the lines.

 

[JoeT4R]

There is an o ring on each line (if I remember correctly), but when a rack is leaking in that area it’s usually coming from the steering input rather than the lines.

Meaning an internal leak, right? If I can safely get away with not having to replace my entire rack that would be great. I've lived with this "leak" for a long time. Like literally years. I've only ever seen a drop hit the ground a handful of times ever since I noticed this was happening.

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[Bad Luck]

I’m not sure I follow. I would classify that as an external leak since it’s leaking externally.

 

[Speedy]

I made it a habit of checking my LBJ with a pry bar, but the spec is .5mm (that's 1/2 a mm) and I'm not sure you can see that with the naked eye. I never bothered with mounting an indicator to measure to that level.

Mine have 100K on them and I'm lifted. I have new OEM LBJs on the work bench and those will go on in a couple weeks. I'll shoot some video and stick it in my build thread. Will be curious how these 100K ball joints look when off the truck.

 

[JoeT4R]

I made it a habit of checking my LBJ with a pry bar, but the spec is .5mm (that's 1/2 a mm) and I'm not sure you can see that with the naked eye. I never bothered with mounting an indicator to measure to that level.



Mine have 100K on them and I'm lifted. I have new OEM LBJs on the work bench and those will go on in a couple weeks. I'll shoot some video and stick it in my build thread. Will be curious how these 100K ball joints look when off the truck.

I'm with you there, Speedy. Mine have well over 100K on them, lifted, wheel spacers and have wheeled a bit. Not sure when I will do them again, but I will definitely be on the lookout for that video to see the condition of them when you go to replace them.

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[brillo_76]

If the dirt and water get in the socket it's over... hence why I like grease fittings. Push the dirt out the joint lasts a lot longer.

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