JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build & Maintenance Thread

[Bad Luck]

The part number is for the metal washers that go to the top of the shock. So in this order starting with the shock removed from the mounting hole: metal washer, bushing, insert shaft into shock mount hole, bushing, metal washer, top nut. You'll only use 2 metal washers per each side on top.

For the bottom shock mount where that bolt is that goes into the stud attached to the diff, I just reused the washers from my 5100's. Hopefully this makes sense. If you want I will be happy to take some close up pictures later on if you want/need me to. Just let me know. I remember you specifically asked me a few months ago about the washers and I wasn't 100% sure at that time.

So you didn't use a centering washer on the shock shaft where it mounts to the frame up top?

 

[JoeT4R]

So you didn't use a centering washer on the shock shaft where it mounts to the frame up top?

So I found this from another thread:

^ - nut
-- - washer (RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.2, 90948-02131)
[ ] - bushing
-- - mount
-- - centering washer (RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.1, 90948-02119)
[ ] - bushing
-- - washer (RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.2, 90948-02131)

According to this description, I did not. I did everything listed above minus the centering washer. I didn't even know that was a thing to be honest, nor did the 5100's that I removed have them. It's not making noise anymore from not having the washers on, since I put them on yesterday, but I think I'm good otherwise. I guess if you can acquire it easily then go for it, but I don't think I'm gonna remove them again just to put that in unless something weird starts to happen.

 

[Bad Luck]

So I found this from another thread:



According to this description, I did not. I did everything listed above minus the centering washer. I didn't even know that was a thing to be honest, nor did the 5100's that I removed have them. It's not making noise anymore from not having the washers on, since I put them on yesterday, but I think I'm good otherwise. I guess if you can acquire it easily then go for it, but I don't think I'm gonna remove them again just to put that in unless something weird starts to happen.

You are coming in clutch today! I appreciate it! I vaguely remember someone saying they had issues with the frame side hole that the shaft of the shock goes through wearing oblong, but I don't think it's a common issue. Thanks again!

 

[phattyduck]

Installation of the 861's required me to use a spring compressor.

First, no reason to be nervous - you weren't compressing the springs all that much.

That said, you should probably loosen all the pivot bolts for you rear links to 'reset' all the bushings. If you do that while the truck is up in the air, the axle should droop farther and maybe even allow you to install the longer springs without the compressor. Re-tighten all the links at the new ride height so the bushings aren't stressed at ride height.

-Charlie

 

[octanejunkie]

I will never use spring compressors again unless installing springs onto struts.

To install the rear springs, also 861s, on my 4Runner I Jack the 4Runner up as high as I could supporting the frame with Jack stands. Disconnected the shocks and drop the axle as far as I possibly could being mindful of the brake lines, disconnecting the hard line from the axle, and my LC Springs fell out. I did have to shove and maneuver the 861s in, but it was no problem.

Same exact exercise on my FZJ80, just raise the vehicle as high as possible, support the frame with Jack stands and drop the axle far enough after disconnecting the shocks to pull the old Springs out and shove the new Springs in.

If the lift is significant enough, resetting the tension on the trailing arm bushings once at ride height makes good sense.

 

[JoeT4R]

Next up on the to-do list is the sway bar end links up front. I've had a set of Moog end links sitting in my tool box for two years. Going to pair them with a fresh set of poly bushings from Energy suspension. These end links are greaseable, too, so that's cool. Might try knocking out the sway bar bushings at the same time as well. Also energy suspension poly bushings.

 

[brillo_76]

Next up on the to-do list is the sway bar end links up front. I've had a set of Moog end links sitting in my tool box for two years. Going to pair them with a fresh set of poly bushings from Energy suspension. These end links are greaseable, too, so that's cool. Might try knocking out the sway bar bushings at the same time as well. Also energy suspension poly bushings.

I use moog parts and get yelled at.... Sorry, I want grease fittings

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[JoeT4R]

I use moog parts and get yelled at.... Sorry, I want grease fittings

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They're not bad parts but they're certainly not OEM. The greasable zerks are a plus though, I agree with you there. Which reminds me that I need to grease my outer tie rod ends.

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[JoeT4R]

Just a rainy day. Snapped on my S22 Ultra.

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[JoeT4R]

Air filter replacement. Also greased outer tie rod ends.

Date: 3/26/23
Mileage: 324,195

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[JoeT4R]

LONG overdue brake pads and rotors job. Removed my OEM pads and rotors. They lasted a little more than 72K miles, which is definitely a lot. The pads had some life left on them but not much. The rotors were toast, had been for a long time now. Like terribly warped and violently shaking when applying the brakes.

I ended up throwing in Hawk LTS pads (p/n HB315 Y.669) and store brand rotors from Advance Auto (Carquest Wearever p/n YH145137). So far the combination of the two is beautiful, as I'm able to gently apply the brakes and come to a smooth and quiet stop. The job itself was easy and I did it in a friend's driveway in about 2 hours total, but it took longer due to having to take breaks and run an errand in between.

Fortunately a friend of mine has a bench grinder, so while I was removing hardware and pins and bolts, he was cleaning them up on this bench grinder. It made everything look literally brand new. I was so impressed that I only remembered to take pictures of the sliding pins that hold the pads in place. Wish I would've snapped some pics of the caliper bolts. They look beautiful when all cleaned up.

I'm super happy I finally got this job done as it was long overdue. I feel like my truck is basically new again.

Date: 3/28/23
Mileage: 324,268

Old pads, super worn down.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52778591163/in/datetaken/" title="20230328_152806"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52778591163_c806e8f44f_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230328_152806"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

OEM rotors with warpage.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52778524085/in/datetaken/" title="20230328_152324"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52778524085_96de8bfde3_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230328_152324"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Sliding pins before and after cleaning with angle grinder.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52778591168/in/datetaken/" title="20230328_155535"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52778591168_176e4b6b9a_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230328_155535"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

New meaty Hawk LTS pads installed!!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52778364469/in/datetaken/" title="20230328_170823"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52778364469_135ec1535c_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230328_170823"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Part number for pads in case anyone is interested.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52778524220/in/datetaken/" title="20230328_172932"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52778524220_3a80bd6c50_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230328_172932"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Old pads from other side of truck.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52778524180/in/datetaken/" title="20230328_175717"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52778524180_ac8c603ea1_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230328_175717"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

And finally, mileage.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52778524290/in/datetaken/" title="20230328_184528"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52778524290_588314f0bb_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230328_184528"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[JoeT4R]

Most up to date side profile, with the new rear springs and shocks installed.

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[JoeT4R]

Bled the brake system yesterday. Did it with the key turned to accessory. The rears were unable to be bled. Passenger rear bleeder screw was clogged despite using a needle/pick tools to try cleaning it out. So I'm going to buy a replacement bleeder screw for it soon and knock that out.

Driver rear bleeder screw was rusted like crazy so I imagine I'll have to get some type of extractor on it and replace that one as well. Front passenger and driver sides were both easy. The fluid was straight up black. But I finally got clear fluid coming out of the lines.

Used a syringe to remove a bunch from the master cylinder and replaced with fresh fluid. Overall there has been no change in the feeling of my brake pedal. I'll give another update once I bleed the rear system.

Date: 4/5/23
Mileage: 324,509

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[brillo_76]

This is why they make bleeder covers...

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[JoeT4R]

This is why they make bleeder covers...

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I had no idea. It's no biggie, I'll get some new bleeder screws and go from there. I'm happy to get at least the fronts done. That fluid was darrrrrrk!

 

[brillo_76]

Speed bleeders stainless steel.. :]

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[JoeT4R]

Found an old picture that was hand drawn by an old friends family member. Great memory!

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[JoeT4R]

Reached out to the p/o of my truck, hadn't spoken to her since I bought the truck a little over 10 years ago. She sent me a photo of the truck when it was bone stock and I thought it would be cool to post up a baby photo.

Pretty wild to see it like this. I somewhat miss the simplicity of it being stock and everything. So beautiful!

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[Speedy]

Looks just like mine did.

 

[JoeT4R]

Looks just like mine did.

I do miss it, but I wouldn't go through all the work and costs to put it back to stock. Sometimes I wonder though... lol.