I guess I need some help making my mind up I'm installing my FJ springs and shocks and I was going to do just springs and shocks but I think I may put the 1/4 toytec spacers in. My fear is with the spacers and towing my boat and the kids in the back seat it will be nose high going down the road. Any imput would be great. I've been going back and forth for a month.:wow:
Just can't make up my mind!?!
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FourEyedWilly
New member
I did the 2/3 Daystar but no FJ springs. I tow a 21ft SeaRay without issue but I can see what you are saying about being nose high. The rear does sag a bit, but I think the FJ springs have a higher compression rating so the sag should be fixed a bit. The spacers shouldn't have an effect. I was going to go FJ springs as well, but I'm saving my pennies, $1400 or so, to go with coilovers from Toytech or Overland Warehouse. Full 2.0" suspension kit
I have no patience and really want to just 'swipe a card'!!!!
I have no patience and really want to just 'swipe a card'!!!!
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
My spacers are thicker than yours. IMHO, after the mods given how thin a spacer you have, your front will be up a bit BUT you'll have less sag than you do right now.
Consider these posts too: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/accessories/53088-airlift-firestone-suspension-air-bags-rock.html http://www.toyota-4runner.org/off-roading-home-monst4rs/14181-rear-coil-spring-decision-time-2.html
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
Yep...
That's just a guess but I have put on quite a bit of load with no air in my bags and it's amazing compared with stock. I have specifically loaded the vehicle with tongue weight and interior weight, let the air out just to see how it would do. Like I said, way better than stock.
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
You want the short answer that isn't so short?
1) FJ spring lift- most report .5-.75 in the front and just under .5 on the rear. Some gain much more in the front, especially on older rigs. I have to assume (which is dangerous, I know) that the FJ springs do what all FJ springs do just the poster is comparing sacked-out, wimpy, worn OE springs to fresh FJ springs.
2) The next problem is the lack of knowledge of basic geometry, 5th grade stuff. Spacers in the rear are a 1 for 1 deal. 1" of material = 1" of lift. On the front it's a different story; it's about 2 to 1. 1" of material will yield about 2" of lift. Many put their trust in the manufacturers who don't understand math either (it would seem). Many packages are are misleading at best. If you buy a 1" spacer from company 'x' you MUST figure out what that means. Is it 1" of material? Is it .5" of material? What does 1" mean? In your case the material is .25" and that will lift you approx. .5", period!
You'll be fine and I fully understand the anxiety.
:cheers:
But that is what a drop-hitch is for- a lifted vehicle. Therefore, the trailer does not pull the rear-end downwards and cause the upward nose pitch.
Andersen Manufacturing Rapid Hitch (10" Drop)
yes a drop hitch is for a lifted vehicle but i don't think that the real function of a drop hitch is to stop rear end sag. i am pretty sure that the tongue weight of a trailer increases as it gets closer to the ground, its a matter of leverage. read this . therefore increasing the possibility of rear end sag if you get a drop hitch that is too low. when i towed on old 4R and new4R i have always run my hitch upside down (with the ball on top of course) to get the tongue up as not to put so much weight on the hitch. also helps get the water out the back of the boat on the way home.
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I have a Masters degree in Biomechanics, I know what leverage is
There is a fine line between even weight distribution and undue stress on your vehicle. If you raise (lift) your truck you have to account for the change in trailer height. Guys that lift their trucks 6 inches ALWAYS use a drop hitch, unless they have an adjustable trailer mount or bizarrely large wheels. Just as it is dangerous to have the ball too low, it is dangerous to have it too high. Stiffer shocks/springs will help but just lowering the hitch an inch to compensate for the lift of the rear-end will work just fine.I have a Masters degree in Biomechanics, I know what leverage is
cool man i understand what you were saying but i could see how your post could possibly be interpreted wrong. the drop hitch that your suggested was IMO overkill for the amount of lift that the OP was asking about. which was then supported by the statement above in bold. the OP is concerned with 1/4" to 1" difference in various lift options he is considering.
jlmilligan
Member
I ran all four FJ springs and a 2" spacer (spacer was 1" thick). The rear was less than a half inch higher than the front. 3 guys, 16 foot aluminum boat with 25hp Yamaha with all the gear for 4 days. The back end was a little lower but nothing worth worrying about IMHO.
Good luck
J
Good luck
J
