JWaldz Rear 8" Full Float Elocker Diamond Axle Build & BS

[JWaldz]

After a few months of painful waiting, I finally got my rear axle from Diamond Axle! Brian is such a great guy to deal with. He talked me through the whole process and we discussed why this route was a good option for me. Pictures just don't do this thing justice!

This build page will be over the course of a c̶o̶u̶p̶l̶e few months as I gather parts and put everything together. All while moving into a house my wife and I just bought lol! It'll cover installation and review of the axle itself, all outer components, brakes, links, and various other tid bits.

Specs:
8" Elocker Housing 63" width
Full Float
Chromo Shafts
Factory Geometry Bracketry
E-Brake Delete
ABS Delete
"Big Fill" Inspection/Fill Port
Cardinal Grey Hammertone Finish (T064-GR05)

Outer Assembly ('79-'85 Solid Axle):
OEM Spindles (link)
OEM Wheel Hubs (link)
Diamond Axle Drive Flanges (link)
FROR ARP Hub Studs (link)
All Toyota OEM Bearings, Seals, Gaskets, Etc..

Brakes:
V6 4-Piston Toyota Calipers (link)
FJ60 Rotors (link)
FROR Backing Plate Center Plates (link)
JEGS Proportioning Valve Kit (link)
Custom Stainless Steel Extended Rear Break Line (link)
Line Lock (Auto..Mechanical?)

Suspension Links:
Toytec [Rokmen] Pro Series Adjustable 5 Link Set


Ok, how bout a few teaser pictures

 

[JWaldz]

Glory Photos :biggrin1:

 

[kolelt]

Wow bad ass make sure you keep it detailed. Gotta ask, how much they run you ?

 

[Scramble]

Nice!
I haven't heard of "Diamond" until the new issue of 4WD Toyota Owner got delivered on Fri. The new Toytec LT 3rd Gen has one in the rear. I'm looking forward to learning more about them.

So disk brakes in the rear? Cool!

 

[TheHoneyBadger]

[Reserved]

Nice man, look forward to your install pics. Looking into getting the full float conversion for my elocker rear. Diamonds are a little to pricey atm i think. [emoji1]

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[JWaldz]

Wow bad ass make sure you keep it detailed. Gotta ask, how much they run you ?

A lot, lol.. Too much for me to admit to over the internet. Message me if you would like to know.

Nice!
I haven't heard of "Diamond" until the new issue of 4WD Toyota Owner got delivered on Fri. The new Toytec LT 3rd Gen has one in the rear. I'm looking forward to learning more about them.

So disk brakes in the rear? Cool!

I don't think I'll be going with a 4 link in the rear just yet. It's possible in the future though. Rear disk brakes is a must!

Nice man, look forward to your install pics. Looking into getting the full float conversion for my elocker rear. Diamonds are a little to pricey atm i think. [emoji1]

By the time I added up all the costs for the rear full floater I said, well what's another grand to it. lol. Plus, the wait time allowed me to really just save up as much as possible. I sold my rear CBI bumper to afford most of it.

Here's the scoop on the rear full float conversion kit. The design on the factory rear axle housings is, in my opinion, pretty crappy. Semi float, drum brakes, dreaded inner seal leaks, etc.. The semi-float design allows for a lot of extra tolerances when it comes to movement. For this exact reason is why I went the route I did.

The full float design has very tight tolerances. When you put that on an axle like this, everything has to be perfect. If your axle is even tweaked a bit (not enough to tell normally), you will know immediately and you run the risk of damaging parts. Ask [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and [MENTION=90485]URBAN ASSAULT[/MENTION]. They have first hand experience with the full float conversion.

So I wanted to steer completely away from the possibility of ruining everything if my axle was already tweaked or the chance of tweaking it. Especially after spending that kind of money on the kit. I just ponied up the difference and went with a Diamond housing instead

 

[TheHoneyBadger]

A lot, lol.. Too much for me to admit to over the internet. Message me if you would like to know.



I don't think I'll be going with a 4 link in the rear just yet. It's possible in the future though. Rear disk brakes is a must!



By the time I added up all the costs for the rear full floater I said, well what's another grand to it. lol. Plus, the wait time allowed me to really just save up as much as possible. I sold my rear CBI bumper to afford most of it.

Here's the scoop on the rear full float conversion kit. The design on the factory rear axle housings is, in my opinion, pretty crappy. Semi float, drum brakes, dreaded inner seal leaks, etc.. The semi-float design allows for a lot of extra tolerances when it comes to movement. For this exact reason is why I went the route I did.

The full float design has very tight tolerances. When you put that on an axle like this, everything has to be perfect. If your axle is even tweaked a bit (not enough to tell normally), you will know immediately and you run the risk of damaging parts. Ask [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and [MENTION=90485]URBAN ASSAULT[/MENTION]. They have first hand experience with the full float conversion.

So I wanted to steer completely away from the possibility of ruining everything if my axle was already tweaked or the chance of tweaking it. Especially after spending that kind of money on the kit. I just ponied up the difference and went with a Diamond housing instead

Interesting, thanks for the advice! Maybe I could save a little by not getting with all chromo parts up front, i know i priced some used spindles and hubs for like $50 a set... Hmm

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[MStudt]

Does Colorado not have state inspections? I know in Missouri if you have line locks you'll fail on the spot. I'd also be a bit weary of those line locks, and look for another brand. I never had luck with those, and may still have 4 of them sitting around somewhere collecting dust.

 

[JayRolla]

Does Colorado not have state inspections? I know in Missouri if you have line locks you'll fail on the spot. I'd also be a bit weary of those line locks, and look for another brand. I never had luck with those, and may still have 4 of them sitting around somewhere collecting dust.

Not even an emission test here.

To the OP, very very jelly!!!

 

[Twan]

Does Colorado not have state inspections?

No, but we should. The number of shitboxes on the roads here is impressive, especially ones that have been in wrecks and are totally missing lights and other body parts. If you live in certain counties around Denver, you just have to pass emissions.

 

[JWaldz]

Does Colorado not have state inspections? I know in Missouri if you have line locks you'll fail on the spot. I'd also be a bit weary of those line locks, and look for another brand. I never had luck with those, and may still have 4 of them sitting around somewhere collecting dust.

Nope, no emissions tests in the county I'm in.

The only other solution is a transmission case mounted disk parking brake but there isn't one out there for us. Plus, not sure one would even fit. I know the line-lock isn't a permanent modification. It's to be used on more of when I absolutely need it and not for any long periods of time. It's better than nothing. I've seen the Jamar brand is by far the most popular mechanical one. I've seen others. Summit Racing makes a really nice electronic one for dragsters. But it's nearly 5 times the cost of a mech one. A line-lock is least of my worries right now. It can always be added later down the line.

 

[csp]

Does Colorado not have state inspections? I know in Missouri if you have line locks you'll fail on the spot

Did you use the Jamar mechanical locks or an electric line lock? Jamar and Mico locks are sooooo different than your traditional line lock.

 

[amalik]

Not even an emission test here.

To the OP, very very jelly!!!

huh? i've had to do have emissions pass for plates and registration in both douglas and denver counties.

 

[JayRolla]

huh? i've had to do have emissions pass for plates and registration in both douglas and denver counties.

We are in the Springs, me and the OP. EL Paso county no emissions required for years now.

 

[MStudt]

Did you use the Jamar mechanical locks or an electric line lock? Jamar and Mico locks are sooooo different than your traditional line lock.

I used the hydraulic ones, but later switched to Summit Racing electric locks. They good for short periods of time, but they fade.

Summit Racing makes a really nice electronic one for dragsters. But it's nearly 5 times the cost of a mech one. A line-lock is least of my worries right now. It can always be added later down the line.

Those would have been my recommendation. That's what I switched over to when I had my Jeep. The only real issue with Jamar or any hydraulic line lock is that they fade. I'll look to see if I can find the Jamar's I have. If so I'll send them to you if you want them?

 

[JWaldz]

When we moved here I was all stressed out about doing emissions tests. Then I found out we didn't have to lol. It's been quite a few years since that changed.

 

[JWaldz]

Those would have been my recommendation. That's what I switched over to when I had my Jeep. The only real issue with Jamar or any hydraulic line lock is that they fade. I'll look to see if I can find the Jamar's I have. If so I'll send them to you if you want them?

Yea, those Summit Racing ones are nice. They support a shit ton of pressure. I've heard of the fading issue with the cheaper mech. ones... But that's why they say they're not a permanent solution. I wouldn't park my truck on a hill over night expecting it to stay there with just the line-lock lol. Yea, sure if you find one I'll try it out. If I don't like it I'll look for other solutions. Let me know!

 

[csp]

Mico locks do not fade, ever, unless there's a leak in the line somewhere.

 

[MStudt]

Yea, those Summit Racing ones are nice. They support a shit ton of pressure. I've heard of the fading issue with the cheaper mech. ones... But that's why they say they're not a permanent solution. I wouldn't park my truck on a hill over night expecting it to stay there with just the line-lock lol. Yea, sure if you find one I'll try it out. If I don't like it I'll look for other solutions. Let me know!

I'll be moving in 2-3 weeks. I'll let you know if I find them.

Mico locks do not fade, ever, unless there's a leak in the line somewhere.

If they're anything other than electronic they'll fade. Plus Mico states that they shouldn't be a permanent solutions. That is just the politically correct way of saying the won't hold pressure. Electronic line locks are the only ones I've come across that actually hold. I've never actually used Mico's, but I know a couple who use them.

 

[csp]

I had a '69 K20 pickup sitting outside an airplane hanger on a hill for six years. The only thing holding it in place was the Mico lock. Saying not to use them permanently is called CYA. It's just like companies selling "sport" bars instead of roll bars.

A Mico lock is more than adequate to park on a hill and get out to scout out the best line to climb it. Nobody is going to be doing that for weeks/months/years at a time. Lets keep the intended use in mind.