4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
68161-35010 Weatherstrip FR
68162-35010 " " FL
68163-35010 Weatherstrip RR
68164-35010 " " RL
68290-35020 Weatherstrip Assy (rear gate)
JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build
- Thread starter JZiggy
- Start date
68161-35010 Weatherstrip FR
68162-35010 " " FL
68163-35010 Weatherstrip RR
68164-35010 " " RL
68290-35020 Weatherstrip Assy (rear gate)
JZiggy
Senior Member
68161-35010, 68162-35010, 68163-35010, 68164-35010
"Belt Weather-Strip"
It's on the RH side of the AC control box. You have to pull off the bezel around it and the radio. This wasn't my idea -- there are a couple threads floating around showing this mod.
JZiggy
Senior Member
I didn't bother to do the rear gate. It doesn't look too bad. Most of my door trim actually didn't look so bad except for one that was busted, so I had to do 'em all.
I haven't had any slide out of position yet. They seem to be snapped in there pretty firmly.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Always excited to get a Blackstone oil analysis report, especially one with good news. Looks like the little 3RZ does not know that it's surpassed 250k. This interval was with Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40. After I drained this I put in a 5W-30 oil instead so we'll see if that changes anything.
phattyduck
Elite Member
*but, but, but* diesel oil! :hatsoff:
It'l definitely be interesting to see the results going back to a 5W30 standard engine oil.
-Charlie
It'l definitely be interesting to see the results going back to a 5W30 standard engine oil.
-Charlie
JZiggy
Senior Member
EDIT 1/2/21: I ended up reversing this mod and putting it back to factory. It turns out that since the turn signal gets fed back into the marker light wire it causes some funny issues, the key one being that my trailer light controller is unhappy and doesn't work. I need to try a different method!
Completed a fun mini-mod as discussed in this thread
Simply remove the ground wire to the marker lights and connect to the turn signal feed. Now when turn signals are on the markers light up as well. If the markers are on (like with headlights) then they blink alternately with the turn signal.
The benefit of this mod is that the marker housing illuminates more toward the side of the vehicle so the turn signals are more visible to traffic. Also the marker lights come on with the hazards as well.
Before
Wired in and wrapped up
Wiring
Completed a fun mini-mod as discussed in this thread
Simply remove the ground wire to the marker lights and connect to the turn signal feed. Now when turn signals are on the markers light up as well. If the markers are on (like with headlights) then they blink alternately with the turn signal.
The benefit of this mod is that the marker housing illuminates more toward the side of the vehicle so the turn signals are more visible to traffic. Also the marker lights come on with the hazards as well.
Before
Wired in and wrapped up
Wiring
Last edited:
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Completed a fun mini-mod as discussed in this thread
Simply remove the ground wire to the marker lights and connect to the turn signal feed. Now when turn signals are on the markers light up as well. If the markers are on (like with headlights) then they blink alternately with the turn signal.
The benefit of this mod is that the marker housing illuminates more toward the side of the vehicle so the turn signals are more visible to traffic. Also the marker lights come on with the hazards as well.
Before
Wired in and wrapped up
Wiring
I went through the referenced thread and the various options for incorporating this feature, but they all seem to involve diodes. The schematic you drew has no diodes - did you do something different?
JZiggy
Senior Member
No diodes. The principle is that the marker light now grounds through the filament of the turn light (I think). The Daniel Stern page about it explains it best.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Great, thanks Jordan. I'll have a look. You kept the original bulbs, just changed the wiring, right?
Last edited:
JZiggy
Senior Member
Pulled the VC for a valve lash check up and changed out the copper Denso spark plugs. All is still in spec after 15k of driving but one exhaust valve is getting near the limit and will need to be adjusted at some point... and it just happens to be the rearmost one. I for the life of me cannot figure out how to pull the shim with the Schley tool. At least I have some more time to cook up a solution. Looks good for 260k
Squint_Eastwood
New member
Pulled the VC for a valve lash check up and changed out the copper Denso spark plugs. All is still in spec after 15k of driving but one exhaust valve is getting near the limit and will need to be adjusted at some point... and it just happens to be the rearmost one. I for the life of me cannot figure out how to pull the shim with the Schley tool. At least I have some more time to cook up a solution. Looks good for 260k
I didn't have a tool so I just pulled the cam, even then I had to use a fine screw driver to pop the shim out of the bucket, some serious oil vacuum/suction holding all my exhaust shims in.
JZiggy
Senior Member
I hadn't thought about that option. But since it's simply gear driven by the intake cam the exhaust cam should just pop out once the ten bolts are pulled, right?
Thanks for the idea!
Squint_Eastwood
New member
Yeah but you kinda have to roll it a little on the way out to unmesh it from the intake cam gear and roll it back into place when you reinstall, just make sure you line the matchmark dots up first on the backside of the cam gears and put the service bold in the backside of the exhaust cam gear before you unbolt(VC bolt works). Also make sure when you reseat it that it is seated fully into all the journals and just follow the bolt torque sequence from the FSM.
Squint_Eastwood
New member
If you pull the cam out you can also pull the buckets out too and inspect them, make sure the nubby inside the bottom isnt worn down, heard if those are worn badly it can really mess with your lash
JZiggy
Senior Member
Nice, good tech! Do you happen to have any pictures from when you did yours?
EX valve lash spec is 10-14 thou. My rear is reading a tight 11 (so 10.5) and I will bide my time until it wanders outside the spec before pulling the cam.
Squint_Eastwood
New member
Sadly I forgot to take pics, all I got is pics that look just like yours with cams in before I took them out of my 3rz. I think I changed 3 shims and my rear was the tightest too If I remember correctly. I got replacements from LCE. My engine ran much better that it could fart correctly again
owyheerat
New member
Jordan,
You won't have any trouble pulling the cam. I just completed a valve job on mine and if I can do it, I know you can...
Eastwood gave you good info, make sure you put the service bolt in the sub gear of the exhaust cam before loosening the cam bolts. Also, like Eastwood said follow the FSM bolt sequence.
If you don't have FSM, let me know and I can post page(s).
Good luck and I always enjoy your thread.
Durwin
Squint_Eastwood
New member
not my picture but cam removed
from here Buying A 2RZ 3RZ motor and pre-install prep | Installing turbo 2rz into a 1988 4runner
Squint_Eastwood
New member
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