KDSS Removal

[Jeremy556]

Thanks! I'm going to try this within about 2 weeks! If I can't get an improved (softer) ride off-pavement, I will have to sell this thing that I've only owned for a few months! I'll report my results in this thread.

Of course, YMMV depending upon mods, but my experience: Felt like going from a shifter cart to a trophy truck.
With the KDSS front swaybar, at low speeds under 10mph everything was great, above that, bumps that hit both front wheels at the same time were fine, but as soon as there was any sort of washboard or any tiny bump that didn't hit both sides at exactly the same time, it was is if the front wheels were connected directly to the frame with no suspension at all. The ride was physically punishing, my front bumper was slamming into my fenders (with a huge 1" gap) all the time, and was actually tearing the vehicle slowly apart (stress cracks all over.)

Now with the front sway bar removed, on desert roads that I would have to air down to around 15psi and keep to about 25-30mph to avoid bumper hitting body, I can cruise down at 60+ mph at 30psi in complete comfort and my bumper hoops barely wiggle.

 

[MountainBiker]

Of course, YMMV depending upon mods, but my experience: Felt like going from a shifter cart to a trophy truck.
With the KDSS front swaybar, at low speeds under 10mph everything was great, above that, bumps that hit both front wheels at the same time were fine, but as soon as there was any sort of washboard or any tiny bump that didn't hit both sides at exactly the same time, it was is if the front wheels were connected directly to the frame with no suspension at all. The ride was physically punishing, my front bumper was slamming into my fenders (with a huge 1" gap) all the time, and was actually tearing the vehicle slowly apart (stress cracks all over.)

That fits with my experience. However, even under 10mph I get a lot of head toss, constantly hitting my head on the grab handle above the door. Articulation is fine with KDSS, but there seems to be a delay in response, so it is still very harsh on the 1-3" tall rocks or bumps when hit with one wheel. All this even with the KDSS wire unplugged!

I have a friend that sold his 2016 Trail/KDSS drive it, and he said my 2017 is much more harsh. Maybe somethings wrong with it, but like I said, articulation is actually very good, for a KDSS vehicle.

 

[Friedom]

So weird to hear you guys saying things like "articulation is actually good for a kdss vehicle".
Stock KDSS has more stability on road and more articulation offroad compared to a non-kdss stock setup. That's why it's such a great system.

Yes it has it's limitations, but I'm running with the rear disconnected as one of the clamp bolts broke when I was replacing the bushings and I'm having quite a time getting that snapped bolt out, but I sure do miss the stability on road. Working on getting droop measurements to compare for when I reconnect, which I will gladly be doing.

If it's a difference I like, I'll probably will do quick disconnect on the axle since the connecting points aren't even compressed.

Running a Sonoran Steel 3/2 lift with 5100s, adjustable panhard bar and Tundra coils.

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[SirWilliamGoes]

Took the front sway bar off yesterday and damn, I really wish I would have done this sooner!! I have OG TRD Pro Bilstein suspension so nothing special and on road I can’t hardly tell a difference at all. Off-road this thing handles SOOOOO much better. Bumps and whoops are not nearly as jarring as they used to be. Now I’m debating removing the rear and all the components. I was wondering tho, has anyone found some way to remove front components and block off the lines??



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[TheWraith]

Took the front sway bar off yesterday and damn, I really wish I would have done this sooner!! I have OG TRD Pro Bilstein suspension so nothing special and on road I can’t hardly tell a difference at all. Off-road this thing handles SOOOOO much better. Bumps and whoops are not nearly as jarring as they used to be. Now I’m debating removing the rear and all the components. I was wondering tho, has anyone found some way to remove front components and block off the lines?? View attachment 380367
View attachment 380368


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You can block it off at the shutter valves but I don't think the rear will work anymore.

I would just completely rip the whole system off and replace the rear with an currie anti-rock

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

After riding around for a while with no front sway i decided to remove the rear. I wish i would have done that at the same time!! It rides far better than i thought it would. A bit of roll but not terribly bad like i was warned. Im going to be removing the rest of the system this week but im worried about any fluid in the system coming out. I want to resell the system if possible so i don't want to damage it. Does anyone have Any advice??

 

[4RMoneyPit]

1) For those of you that started by removing the front and then later removed the rear, how would you compare the on-road handling each way?
2) Has anyone measured the differences in articulation before/after removal?

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

1) For those of you that started by removing the front and then later removed the rear, how would you compare the on-road handling each way?
2) Has anyone measured the differences in articulation before/after removal?

Not much difference between removing both or just the front. There’s certainly a difference in on road performance but it’s really not bad at all. As for articulation i did a ramp with and without and really couldn’t tell a huge difference but it was two different ramps and i didn’t measure. Ill say that i went to a charity event that had a flex ramp competition and an sr5 with the rear swaybar disconnected performed a good bit better than mine with the kdss still attached.

I wont be putting mine back on but if for any reason i found myself with another kdss equipped 4runner i wouldnt take it off unless it was malfunctioning.

 

[4RMoneyPit]

I could see myself putting them back on for the occasional camping trip when I would be towing or possibly a long road trip. I'm guessing they would just bolt back in and function normally.

Anyone compared the KDSS disconnect switch/module vs sway bar removal??

 

[Potato J]

Nope. I just removed the bar and let the front KDSS piston hang.

You can also try it out even easier - just remove the bracket on each LCA, swing the bar forward and use a ratchet strap or something to the tow hook to keep it out of the way.

Did you get any sort of lean by letting your front piston hang? Also, do you still have your rear sway attached? How’s highway driving with the front delete?

I’m planning on ripping out my front sway because my front KDSS piston is clunking. Dealer wants an arm and a leg to fix it.

Currently I am on kings with 600lb springs and my wheel set up is pretty wide. Hopefully that’ll compensate for front sway delete.

 

[bzizzi]

Instead of removing KDSS why not just buy one without KDSS, it's called an option for a reason.

 

[Potato J]

Instead of removing KDSS why not just buy one without KDSS, it's called an option for a reason.

I optioned for KDSS because I wanted it. Now it bit me in the butt and failed on me 2 years later. Dealer wants 3.5k+ to fix a 1.8k option. I’d rather rip off sway’s and call it a day then pay that outrageous price.

 

[Jeremy556]

Did you get any sort of lean by letting your front piston hang? Also, do you still have your rear sway attached? How’s highway driving with the front delete?

I’m planning on ripping out my front sway because my front KDSS piston is clunking. Dealer wants an arm and a leg to fix it.

Currently I am on kings with 600lb springs and my wheel set up is pretty wide. Hopefully that’ll compensate for front sway delete.

I had lean before and after in the rear, I didn't notice any difference. My rear bar is still attached, it does help with sway a bit, but since the front is always unloaded, it doesn't do a whole lot. It drives like a boat on the road, tons of body roll. I'm running 700lb springs in front, but I'm heavy, like 5900 curb weight

 

[Potato J]

I had lean before and after in the rear, I didn't notice any difference. My rear bar is still attached, it does help with sway a bit, but since the front is always unloaded, it doesn't do a whole lot. It drives like a boat on the road, tons of body roll. I'm running 700lb springs in front, but I'm heavy, like 5900 curb weight

Thanks! I think ima take off my sway bars this week.

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

I optioned for KDSS because I wanted it. Now it bit me in the butt and failed on me 2 years later. Dealer wants 3.5k+ to fix a 1.8k option. I’d rather rip off sway’s and call it a day then pay that outrageous price.

Whats bad on the KDSS?? I have a pump Im selling that I took off mine. There is definitely a difference without the sways. I don’t mind it but I sure miss hitting the mountain roads at speed. The pump / actuator is fine and Im selling it for 500 obo with a 30day money back guarantee if you’re interested


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[Brandonium]

There is absolutely no way I could drive a 4Runner without KDSS. That whole boat motion drives me insane. I want something with a stable ride and not something I have to be careful about when doing any type of road maneuvers or forbidding any type of real emergency type maneuver. I rode in a TRD Pro and immediately said get me a trail with KDSS. Almost 7 years now and it has been rock solid.

 

[SirWilliamGoes]

There is absolutely no way I could drive a 4Runner without KDSS. That whole boat motion drives me insane. I want something with a stable ride and not something I have to be careful about when doing any type of road maneuvers or forbidding any type of real emergency type maneuver. I rode in a TRD Pro and immediately said get me a trail with KDSS. Almost 7 years now and it has been rock solid.

I dont find it real bad. Had to make a really abrupt maneuver at about 80 the other day when something fell out of a truck and it handles it fine. Stiffer suspension certainly helps. Off-road it’s a dream without sway bars. You don’t get the hopping i used to get at s as peed when in the rough stuff


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[baldrik78]

I optioned for KDSS because I wanted it. Now it bit me in the butt and failed on me 2 years later. Dealer wants 3.5k+ to fix a 1.8k option. I’d rather rip off sway’s and call it a day then pay that outrageous price.

If my KDSS ever fails, my plan is to pull the whole system and get a fabricator to install an antirock sway bar in the rear and leave the front swaybar free.

 

[MountainBiker]

Looks like I never updated this thread with my 2017 KDSS front bar removal experience. A few weeks after the advice of Jeremy556, this is what I did:

- Removed front KDSS bar, liked it (I left the KDSS cylinder hanging free with no issues)

- With the FRONT bar removed, I did need to use a 25mm rear spring spacer to correct for a driver's side lean that was being masked by the KDSS bars

- Removed rear KDSS bar, liked it for offroad as it was similar to my 3rd gen with the bars disconnected. I reinstalled the rear bar right away, as the rear KDSS cylinder when hanging free might hit something, and the on-road handling was sketchy.

- Reinstalled the front KDSS bar, left the 25mm Driver's side rear spring spacer as the vehicle was fairly level with it in place.

- 8/2021 Sold my 2017 4runner, at least 50% due to the KDSS system