Keep melting switches?? Baja squadron pro podlights

[macscac]

So I melted my second switch last night. Was on a run and all of a sudden I smelled hot electrical and my ditch light switch had melted off and fallen out.
This was the second time it’s happened (meaning I’m on my second switch)
The first time it melted it actually killed the power to the lights. This time, when the switch melted, the lights stayed on. I couldn’t turn em off. I tried to push it back on to stop the lights but no go. Lol I ended up having to prey it out with a screwdriver and just unplugging the lights from under the hood

I need a good recommend on a solid switch. At first I thought it was my wiring but I have been using the same switch on my KC 30” lightbar and it hasn’t had any issues!

I used the lights for three-four hours at a time at night in the desert. I don’t know why it’s gettig so hot and melting

Any thoughts or suggests? I do like that fActory look of these amswitches but now I don’t care. I’m more about function than form
Thank you

 

[Bumbo]

I would consider this to be wired incorrectly… There is nothing wrong with the switch.

It’s pretty obvious to me that you have the full current of the light passing though the switch.

Solution: Use a relay.

 

[Cndnmax]

I would consider this to be wired incorrectly… There is nothing wrong with the switch.

It’s pretty obvious to me that you have the full current of the light passing though the switch.

Solution: Use a relay.

Or just get a switch rated for the proper amperage. Not everything needs relays.

 

[macscac]

I have a relay. I really don’t think they’re wired wrong?
I mean it’s hard to show that thru the internet but I used all Baja’s wiring and didn’t modify anything except the end where I plugged it into the Toyota switch
I’m not sure how to change it

 

[Cndnmax]

I have a relay. I really don’t think they’re wired wrong?
I mean it’s hard to show that thru the internet but I used all Baja’s wiring and didn’t modify anything except the end where I plugged it into the Toyota switch
I’m not sure how to change it

What’s the rating on the switch.

 

[Bumbo]

Or just get a switch rated for the proper amperage. Not everything needs relays.

OK...

Why increase line loss if you don't have to? The battery is located under the hood right next to the light.

Not only do you now need to run larger AWG cable into the truck to handle the current, it's going to carry heat under load.

You want a relay.

 

[Bumbo]

I have a relay. I really don’t think they’re wired wrong?
I mean it’s hard to show that thru the internet but I used all Baja’s wiring and didn’t modify anything except the end where I plugged it into the Toyota switch
I’m not sure how to change it

That’s great, but check your wiring.

Easy test… pull out a DMM or current camp meter and measure the load passing though the switch when it’s on.

That will answer your question right there if someone buggered up the install.

You are either shorting something out in your wiring of the switch (like the LED), or your have lighting load passing though the switch.

Correctly installed you won't have significant current moving though that switch, or any detectable heat.

Other considerations assuming it is wired correctly:
LED on voltage… you might want to install a current limiting resistor in line if the heat from the switch light is causing this.
4 Wire switch, you only need 2 to operate the relay, how are the other 2 optional LED wires wired?

 

[Bumbo]

What’s the rating on the switch.

Those are generally rated for 3 amps assuming you trust the Chinese specs… id say it’s closer to 500mA which is a signal switch.

 

[macscac]

Will do. Thanks!
I installed it all so if it’s buggered, it was done by me
Haha

That’s great, but check your wiring.

Easy test… pull out a DMM or current camp meter and measure the load passing though the switch when it’s on.

That will answer your question right there if someone buggered up the install.

You are either shorting something on in your wiring of the switch (like the LED), or your have lighting load passing though the switch.

Correctly installed you won't have significant current moving though that switch.

Other considerations assuming it is wired correctly:
LED on voltage… you might want to install a current limiting resistor in line if the hear from the switch light is causing this.
4 Wire switch, you only need 2 to operate the relay, how are the other 2 optional LED wires wired?

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Something is wired wrong, most likely not grounded correctly

 

[npottala]

Post up the schematic of how you wired in the relay and the switch. I'm guessing somewhere power is going through the switch to the lights instead of through the relay to the lights.

 

[Baja Designs]

So I melted my second switch last night. Was on a run and all of a sudden I smelled hot electrical and my ditch light switch had melted off and fallen out.
This was the second time it’s happened (meaning I’m on my second switch)
The first time it melted it actually killed the power to the lights. This time, when the switch melted, the lights stayed on. I couldn’t turn em off. I tried to push it back on to stop the lights but no go. Lol I ended up having to prey it out with a screwdriver and just unplugging the lights from under the hood

I need a good recommend on a solid switch. At first I thought it was my wiring but I have been using the same switch on my KC 30” lightbar and it hasn’t had any issues!

I used the lights for three-four hours at a time at night in the desert. I don’t know why it’s gettig so hot and melting

Any thoughts or suggests? I do like that fActory look of these amswitches but now I don’t care. I’m more about function than form
Thank you

We're sorry to hear about the issue. How do you have the lights wired? Are they wired using the included Pair Wiring Harness? Or a different setup?

This is the harness I recommend for Squadron or S2 Ditch Lights:
https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/squadron-s2-wire-harness-2-lights-max-150-watts.asp

It includes a relay and everything is fused at the battery. This keeps the majority of the load off the switch and offers increased circuit protections.

If you are NOT using a relay, it's very possible the switch isn't rated high enough for the Pair of lights. This would cause some problems like you're experiencing.
If you ARE using a relay and experiencing this, please post up as many photos of your setup as you can. It's possible something isn't hooked up correctly.

Happy to help figure this out!

Baja Designs
www.bajadesigns.com

 

[macscac]

Baja, that’s the harness that I’m using. It came with the lights. I must have it wired at the switch incorrectly or not grounded properly. I don’t know. I’m going to try and dig it all apart this evening

We're sorry to hear about the issue. How do you have the lights wired? Are they wired using the included Pair Wiring Harness? Or a different setup?

This is the harness I recommend for Squadron or S2 Ditch Lights:
https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/squadron-s2-wire-harness-2-lights-max-150-watts.asp

It includes a relay and everything is fused at the battery. This keeps the majority of the load off the switch and offers increased circuit protections.

If you are NOT using a relay, it's very possible the switch isn't rated high enough for the Pair of lights. This would cause some problems like you're experiencing.
If you ARE using a relay and experiencing this, please post up as many photos of your setup as you can. It's possible something isn't hooked up correctly.

Happy to help figure this out!

Baja Designs
www.bajadesigns.com

 

[Baja Designs]

Baja, that’s the harness that I’m using. It came with the lights. I must have it wired at the switch incorrectly or not grounded properly. I don’t know. I’m going to try and dig it all apart this evening

Just replied to your PM. Our tech support team is happy to further diagnose this. We wiring diagrams we can send you as well. Please call us at 800-422-5292 or email [email protected]

We are open M-F 8:30-5:30 PST

Baja Designs
www.bajadesigns.com

 

[Jeffy]

That looks like an AirOnBoard switch (or CH4x4), correct me if I'm wrong. I've been using AOB switches for 4 years now with zero issues, I've got 9 in my truck currently. I'd be willing to bet it's wired incorrectly and/ or lacking a relay. Those switches are great as long as you're not passing any actual current through them.

 

[willo]

I have to agree here. Do you have a relay or did you wire power through the switch? You need to make/buy a relay harness to go under the hood. I see lots of comments but no real solutions offered up.

Here are the reasons to do this:
1) Keep the high amperage under the hood, don't drag it through the cab. Pulling high power through the cab increases the risk of fire damage.

2) Reduce power loss - the longer the run of wire, the more loss you'll see through it. Metal is a good conductor but it's not perfect.

3) That switch probably isn't rated to handle the draw from your lights.

So, how do you do this?
1) You can make up your own harness.
This is a good safe example. You want the entire thing to be fused. You do not want to wire a switch to your battery with no fuse in the middle, EVER. Always fuse between the power source and your wiring!

Wiring Diagrams For Relay Lighting New 12v Switch At 12V Diagram - kuwaitigenius.me


2) You can buy a premade harness.
Here's a simple amazon unit
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-MIC-B1002-Wiring-Harness-Waterproof/dp/B00O72R7Z8

3) You can make up a relay/fuse box.
Here's a good writeup.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/diy-spod-waytekwire-324558/

4) You can buy a premade package of switch and relay/fuse box.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech-Voswitch-Universal-6-Switch-Backlight/dp/B07DX87WRF
I'd spend time researching, I just wanted to toss out a good basic version.

Cheers.

 

[Kenstaroni]

I have a relay. I really don’t think they’re wired wrong?
I mean it’s hard to show that thru the internet but I used all Baja’s wiring and didn’t modify anything except the end where I plugged it into the Toyota switch
I’m not sure how to change it

If you didn't modify the Baja harness, except plugging it into a different switch, then you don't have a relay. The relay will take all the voltage so it doesn't pass through your switch and result in the issues you're experiencing. $10 fix.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

That looks like an AirOnBoard switch (or CH4x4), correct me if I'm wrong. I've been using AOB switches for 4 years now with zero issues, I've got 9 in my truck currently. I'd be willing to bet it's wired incorrectly and/ or lacking a relay. Those switches are great as long as you're not passing any actual current through them.

I've also had AOB switches in my last 2 4Runners and never had an issue. My guess is he ran the hot and the signal backwards and it's over powering the switch, or there's a problem with the relay staying open

 

[wcjeep]

I think the OP mentioned the lights have a relay. Any chance the relay is wired backwards? The high current side is swapped for the control circuit side? Curious if the OP has tried to measure the amperage passing through the switch. It should be really small amperage at the switch.

 

[FrenchToasty]

Find the diagram for your aob switch and confirm color to pin location, I followed a write up on here and then noticed on my switch that the colors weren't in the same position as the write up. Saved me a lot of hassle seeing that before I powered up, used a pin pusher and flip flopped the connections