Key Doesn't Turn until I Force It

[FD7683]

My 2000 4Runner has always had issues with the key not turning smooth like it should. By forcing it and turning the wheel back and fourth it finally moves. If i'm quick enough I can actually take the key off the ignition when it's on the first position which says something with wrong with either the key or the ignition cylinders.

Both my keys are the original ones and are looking pretty worn for a 21 year old key. What is the common fix for this? Rebuild the wafers in the ignition cylinder or replace the key? Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks.

 

[Brian.]

Rebuild the wafers in the ignition cylinder or replace the key?

Yes

Get the new key cut from code, not just a copy of the worn one you already have.

 

[FD7683]

Yes

Get the new key cut from code, not just a copy of the worn one you already have.

Ok, i'll be looking for new keys on amazon or fleabay. Thanks. I hope I don't have to rebuild my wafers though. For the time being I just sprayed some WD-40 in the ignition to see if minimal lubrication can help.

 

[JZiggy]

I have used a small spritz of silicone spray in sticky ignition cylinders before with good success.

 

[Twisted Sid]

Put some dry graphite lube in ignition cylinder and also on the key. Cycle it on and off a few times and it should get easier

 

[Devbot]

Ok, i'll be looking for new keys on amazon or fleabay. Thanks. I hope I don't have to rebuild my wafers though. For the time being I just sprayed some WD-40 in the ignition to see if minimal lubrication can help.

Just go to a local toyota dealer, they should have you in and out in a few minutes

 

[Brian.]

....I just sprayed some WD-40 in the ignition to see if minimal lubrication can help.

Dear load man! What have you DONE! WD-40 has ONE job, and it's not even that good at that job when compared to Other more modern products. That is to displace water. It's Not a lubricant, and in fact it will become STICKY over time.

Flush that crap out of there with some iso alcohol (safe for plastics and electronics, no clue if carb/parts cleaner is). I'm not sure about the long-term effects of silicone in locks, but the standard is a dry graphite lube.


Friends don't let friends us WD-40.

And I don't blame you for wanting to skip the cylinder if possible. Careful with the cheap keys, I didn't have much good luck with the $10 keys (and they're cheap feeling to boot). I managed to find some $20 keys that look and felt like OEM, they're my main key. I couldn't get off the $30~40 Toyota wants for their official key.

 

[HiLife]

Just go to your Toyota dealership. Doubt Toyota will cut a key other than from their own stock room.

I don't have a chip key so the counter guys gave me a choice between a plastic coated key or an all steel key.
You'll need to prove your the actual true owner. Don't forget your ID and utility bill or cable bill.

 

[Brian.]

Just go to your Toyota dealership. Doubt Toyota will cut a key other than from their own stock room.

My dealer cut my many fleabay keys for me without issue, all for free. Not like I have any relationship with them... key cutting and online order parts pickup only, they don't know me from Jack. No proof of identity, vehicle ownership, etc... just walked in with keys (3 different times) and my key code, walked out ~10 minutes later with cut keys. Granted, mine needed programming.

And programming new keys is either a simple DIY or "impossible" (it's not and I've done it), depending on if you have a Master key: Programming instructions for blank Transponder keys/chip keys for OEM toyota ignition

 

[HiLife]

My dealer cut my many fleabay keys for me without issue, all for free. Not like I have any relationship with them... key cutting and online order parts pickup only, they don't know me from Jack. No proof of identity, vehicle ownership, etc... just walked in with keys (3 different times) and my key code, walked out ~10 minutes later with cut keys.

No way my stealership will do that anywhere in my area. I already asked.
The parts guys we have here are the "holier than thou types".
It doesn't matter what brand stealership I walk in, they are all the same.

I used to know this one very helpful pleasant stealership parts guy, and he quit. I noticed the nicer helpful ones don't stay around for long.

You must be in a trusting city with nice helpful people around.

 

[FD7683]

Dear load man! What have you DONE! WD-40 has ONE job, and it's not even that good at that job when compared to Other more modern products. That is to displace water. It's Not a lubricant, and in fact it will become STICKY over time.

I used the WD-40 silicone stuff - not the regular one although you're right as I knew it was going to get worse over time. I'm going to see if a new OEM key from Toyota will be expensive.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I sprayed out my ignition lock with brake cleaner to get all the old metal shavings out then I had a new key cut. With the key code.

Don’t be surprised if you get a new key cut and it’s ornery in the beginning. You got to get the tumblers free. You can pull the lock out of the housing and clean it more thorro.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Kanoe]

When I get a new to me vehicle, I take the best oem key and put it away as a spare. I can then use it to cut a new one for everyday use.

My local locksmith cuts me a nice functional key for $5 including the blank.

Common sense….

 

[brillo_76]

I mostly only use powered graphite in my key tumblers assemblies. That's what i had the most like with.

 

[HiLife]

Anything wet like wd40 and the like attracts dust over time. The wafers/pins in the lock are snug fit. Any build up of dust dirt will cause the wafers to hang, causing problems.
Powdered graphite is the way to go in this application.

 

[FD7683]

Well today it decided to not turn at all. I'll see if a new key from Toyota will fix it. Quite a punch to the stomach and I will never use WD-40 on the key cylinders again........