King Shocks questions

runnerwithm4

New member
Hi all,

After lurking around the forum for about half a year, I have ordered a set of front and rear shocks from King. My question is should I get the SAW 1.5 rear coils or should I get the 2.0 rear coils from ICON? I understand that the King front coil over recommend the front not lifted higher than 2.5 inches. My goal is to be able to fit 285/70/17 BFG KO2 all terrain tires.

Thanks in advance!
 
Register to hide this ad
Hi all,

After lurking around the forum for about half a year, I have ordered a set of front and rear shocks from King. My question is should I get the SAW 1.5 rear coils or should I get the 2.0 rear coils from ICON? I understand that the King front coil over recommend the front not lifted higher than 2.5 inches. My goal is to be able to fit 285/70/17 BFG KO2 all terrain tires.

Thanks in advance!

Hi runnerwithm4,

Well, you never did say what you're driving but you want to mount 285/70 R17's on your truck... This guide has been endlessly helpful on these forums so take a look and see if you find some answers to your particular mod quest: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/156378-going-bigger-5th-gen-tire-fitment-guide.html

Cheers!
 
Hi runnerwithm4, I have the King coilovers with the 1.5" SAW's in the rear and am running 285's with no issue. The amount of lift is right what I was looking for. Couldn't tell you exactly what my setting are on the fronts, I think around 2", maybe a bit less. I left some rake for when the back is full of crap. Once the front and rear springs settled a bit, I adjusted the fronts up a from what they were initially set at. You might encounter some rubbing with the KO2's, but only at hard lock. It may not matter for specifics, but I have a 2010 trail and the lift has been on for a little over 4 years and have been running 285 bridgestone duelers for about a year without rubbing. I had BFG A/T's in 270/75 before that. They didn't rub either, but they were shorter than 285's and didn't have the same sidewall knob that the KO2's have. Hopefully that helps some.
 
I have ICON 2" rear shocks and it is very stiff, especially without a load. 1.5" should be enough to clear.
 
No need for a lift with 285s. May help with some things but you won't gain any additional clearance for bigger tires. Here's 285s with no lift. the rear would easily clear 35's. The front not so much.
178639d1446424676-tread-depot-online-tire-review-20151101_150441.jpg
 
No need for a lift with 285s. May help with some things but you won't gain any additional clearance for bigger tires. Here's 285s with no lift. the rear would easily clear 35's. The front not so much.
178639d1446424676-tread-depot-online-tire-review-20151101_150441.jpg

Once you start off-roading and flexing the suspension, you will definitely start rubbing.
 
Once you start off-roading and flexing the suspension, you will definitely start rubbing.
Unless you are changing the bump stops or changing geometry with control arms, springs and shocks make no difference as far as clearance goes.
 
I ended up doing the sway a way 1.5" and still have rake. I lifted 2" in the front.

Thats what I'm trying to do is find the right blend of components to achieve an approx 2" lift in front (no more then 2.5) and either eliminate or dramatically reduce "Rake" I'd like a level lift, a touch of Rake isn't unacceptable, but less then how it sits now in stock form.

From what I'm seeing anything over 1.5" coil in the rear is going to cause some pretty substantial rake without jacking the front end up 3"+?
 
A lift that retains the same a arm mounts and a arms only changes the static height. The travel and tire placement is the same. To simplify this imagine a simple lever with a pivot point on one end. The arc of the lever will remain unchanged regardless of where you start moving it from. Unless you change the pivot point or the lever it won't change the tire clearance. There are some advantages to having a taller static ride I such as more body clearance. When you're lifting solid axles of course it's different because a solid axle pivots about a virtual pivot point that is changed when you lift it. You also have varying amounts of other characteristics like anti squat that will change depending on the position relative to the links in the rear axle. But in this case the rear has more than enough clearance for larger tires at stock height and the front is limited by the clearance around the front body mount.
 
Thats what I'm trying to do is find the right blend of components to achieve an approx 2" lift in front (no more then 2.5) and either eliminate or dramatically reduce "Rake" I'd like a level lift, a touch of Rake isn't unacceptable, but less then how it sits now in stock form.

From what I'm seeing anything over 1.5" coil in the rear is going to cause some pretty substantial rake without jacking the front end up 3"+?

my rake isnt that bad, but its not level either.

How does the rear ride? Ive got icon 2" rear coils and it can be a little stiff sometimes when not loaded.

rides well, slightly firmer than stock. Its not jarring or bouncy or anything like that.
 
My rake isn't bad either, but that's my opinion. The adjustability of the Kings will make it pretty easy to achieve level lift. At least in my experience with the SAW's. Others haven't seemed to have any issue with achieving a level lift with ICON rear coils and any/most front coilover offerings.
The ride for me is stiff. Not jarring or uncomfortable, but stiff. I don't mind it, but again, that's just my opinion.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,048
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top