Knock Sensor and injector project

[K's 4runnr]

Morning.

Started the first phase of my Grand daughters '94 3vze. It's had a code 52 so this weekend I decided to replace the knock sensor and/or the pigtail. What a mess. All the wiring is brittle and heat cooked and I understand not available anymore.

What I found is that the last owner/s had apparently tried to as well and broke ALL the injector plug locks off and had gobbed silicone in an effort to glue them back on. anyway the further in I got the worse in got.

Reached the KS and found it actually was in good shape though was installed way to tight, so removed, inspected and reinstalled.

New KS pigtail, new gaskets and now the lower manifold is in.

All but 2 of the injector tips were broken off so I ordered a set of reman "flamethrower" and will put them in this Friday when I return from Cal. (driver)

the kit looked like it uses an adapter pigtail so I'm wondering if I clip the factory ends off if I can wire the adapter pigtails into the harness without causing voltage or resistance issues.

ALL the wiring along the top of the motor is extremely crunchy and in several places the insulation is broken and thought if I replae it further back in the harness could freshen it all up and stop any line loss issues it may be suffering. Thoughts?

Also I am in the dark as to all of the crap bolted to the pass side of the plenum. I removed what I needed to, to remove it from the car but don't know what I should clean, and/or replace if any.

Finally the idler pulley for the timing chain....

It appears OK and the Timing belt looks fine but thought I'd throw out whether I should buy the front end kit and do the 2 pulleys tensioner
and belt or if I'm over thinking this part.

What might I be missing here?

Thanks for any insights...

Rob

 

[Hyde802]

How many miles on the engine? Id do the timing belt if over 150k. (unless it has been done before) If the pulleys sound ok when you spin them by hand, there probably fine. But if you do find your self changing the timing belt, do the water pump too.

The main thing on the other side of the plenum, is the EGR valve.

You can find wiring harnesses pretty cheap in junkyards. Try nix99.com if there isnt a yard close to you.

 

[RiFF RaFF]

How many miles on the engine? Id do the timing belt if over 150k. (unless it has been done before) If the pulleys sound ok when you spin them by hand, there probably fine. But if you do find your self changing the timing belt, do the water pump too.

The main thing on the other side of the plenum, is the EGR valve.

You can find wiring harnesses pretty cheap in junkyards. Try nix99.com if there isnt a yard close to you.

Plus 1 on Hyde's post (don't forget the thermostat!).

I'll add that you might seriously consider changing the radiator/heater bypass tube that's located in the back of the engine. These are prone to rust, and trust me - I know from experience - it will start leaking at the most inconvenient time!

This is what it looks like --

and the location --

and the rust through --

Since you already have the intake manifold off now would be the time to take care of all those hard to reach parts! Not to mention all the rubber radiator hoses, and vacuum lines.

:ybrick:

 

[K's 4runnr]

Plus 1 on Hyde's post (don't forget the thermostat!).

I'll add that you might seriously consider changing the radiator/heater bypass tube that's located in the back of the engine. These are prone to rust, and trust me - I know from experience - it will start leaking at the most inconvenient time!

This is what it looks like --

and the location --

and the rust through --

Since you already have the intake manifold off now would be the time to take care of all those hard to reach parts! Not to mention all the rubber radiator hoses, and vacuum lines.

:ybrick:

Very good, hadn't thought about the Tstat, will add that to the list, and yes am gonna do all the hoses as they're as toasty as the wiring. fuel and vacume seem pretty generic but I'm guessing that the formed ones are gonna be Toy parts.

And the whole thing has been full of hard crusties inside and an running bottle brushes through everything I can rig extension handles to.

Not sure if I'm seeing that tube, is it the one that bolted under the plenum, or possibly up the dr side at the rear?

Also figured I'd run some Prestone Coolant system cleaner through it a couple times before I re charge that system.

Good calls both . Thanks.

 

[K's 4runnr]

How many miles on the engine? Id do the timing belt if over 150k. (unless it has been done before) If the pulleys sound ok when you spin them by hand, there probably fine. But if you do find your self changing the timing belt, do the water pump too.

The main thing on the other side of the plenum, is the EGR valve.

You can find wiring harnesses pretty cheap in junkyards. Try nix99.com if there isnt a yard close to you.

That makes sense on the EGR tube it was a long tube covered in carbon. with an alum gasket under it, is also another gasket next to it but it's all off now so I'll worry about it when I get to that point.

Sticks it my head it may have had fuel to it.. fuzzy there though

OK you talked me into it. ordered the timing belt kit. The idlers spin free without slop but figured I'm this far and thers no timing belt sticker anywhere so guess...

it has 235k and it is for the granddaughter.

UNNHHG!

 

[Hyde802]

.

it has 235k and it is for the granddaughter.

UNNHHG!

Do the water pump too (ifs its showing signs of wear) . Its driven by the timing belt and pretty cheap, so its prime time to change it.

Not trying to make your list longer, but inspect the valve covers too. Prone to leaking on this motor and if you already have the plenum off, there easy to get to.

Do you know if the headgaskets have eve been changed?

Props to your granddaughter for driving a runner!

 

[K's 4runnr]

One last post here to thank the guys that jumped in to give me info and ideas of how far to go on this project.

The cars back together and running well.

Wound up replacing the knock sensor pigtail, fuel injectors, timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, water pump, valve cover gaskets, T-stat, plugs, wires, belts and it feels like 5 miles of hoses.

Gonna take a week for the nicks in my knuckles to heal...

Next thread will be the transmission issues.

Thanks again.

 

[Hyde802]

Hey! Congrats! What did you set the timing at? I think stock is 10 but you can get a little extra power bump if you turn it up to 13ish.

 

[K's 4runnr]

One last post here to thank the guys that jumped in to give me info and ideas of how far to go on this project.

The cars back together and running well.

Wound up replacing the knock sensor pigtail, fuel injectors, timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, water pump, valve cover gaskets, T-stat, plugs, wires, belts and it feels like 5 miles of hoses.

Gonna take a week for the nicks in my knuckles to heal...

Next thread will be the transmission issues.

Thanks again.

Hi guys, Didn't think I'd be back into this thread, but we had a complication on the motor.

Granddaughter called me last Monday on her way to school truck overheated and all the dash lights were on.

Had it towed home and when I got back in town popped the hood to find it threw the belts, no biggie right?

Pulled the shroud and fan and noticed the fan pulleys were not aligned
thought, what did I screw up putting it back together.

Then I related the center shaft of the timing cover had pushed out about 2-3 inches. wth? I was afraid the pulley on the water pump had come apart but upon review it looks as if everything under the cover is fine

There is a groove on the shaft, so my question is, what happened here. is there a lock ring or something that broke?

Other than clean grease off all the parts I didn't service anything on that cover, but was there something I should have, or is this just bad coincidence?

Is this serviceable or do I replace this cover.

Again, thanks for you guy's insights.

Rob