I had my 2004 SR5 serviced today. Services performed included the 55k service, front brakes and rotors replaced (definitely needed), and my check engine light was coming on every once in awhile along w/ VSC Track light. The dealership told me that the check engine light is coming on because my Knock Sensor is bad. Parts cost is $300 and labor is $2700 at 16 hours. Does this sound right? Apparently, they need to drop my engine to get to replace the sensor and thats why the labor is so extensive. I don't think they are lying but they said they have only seen this once. Does anyone know of a cheaper solution? Thanks in advance.
Knock sensor on 2004 4Runner SR5
- Thread starter sf4runner
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Ugg. That stinks. If the knock sensor is bad, it has to be replaced.
What type engine? I pulled my repair manual and the v6 does require you to pull the heads. You don't need to pull the engine for that. That would be way more work.
The V8 apparently is much simpler.
That seems very pricey for that. They might be jerking you. Call another Toyota dealer and ask.
What type engine? I pulled my repair manual and the v6 does require you to pull the heads. You don't need to pull the engine for that. That would be way more work.
The V8 apparently is much simpler.
That seems very pricey for that. They might be jerking you. Call another Toyota dealer and ask.
ChaosStarter
New member
Warranty time does claim nearly 13 hours for the job so I can see them charging 16. Good luck.
ChaosStarter
New member
I think it's more of a function of the unlucky lottery. I can't remember the last time I've seen a 4.0 knock sensor go bad.
imboredeveryday
New member
ive seen one 4.0 knock sensor go bad and the reason it did was because of a rat chewing on it so id check to see if you have any visuals of a animal getting in ur engine bay or a/c box
nevada
Senior Member
where/how is it located, that the head(s?) have to come off?
im just thinking that there would have to be a way around doing that. but i dont know where it is.
ChaosStarter
New member
It's in the valley of the motor like most Toyota knock sensors. Obviously the upper/lower intake has to come off, but I'm unsure as to why you have to pull the heads. A good swivel socket would allow you to get in there without pulling them. It does show in the pictures though that the heads are removed.
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Well, I am simply going by what my repair manual states.
Both my Haynes and my Factory Service manual list head sub-assembly removal as a step for the V6. My repair manual does state that you do not have to do that for the v8.
Having never touched the knock sensor on my motor, I can't speak from experience.
Both my Haynes and my Factory Service manual list head sub-assembly removal as a step for the V6. My repair manual does state that you do not have to do that for the v8.
Having never touched the knock sensor on my motor, I can't speak from experience.
aha2988
New member
could be one of those things that if you knew a trick or two about the procedure you could get around removing the engine or the heads. Just a rare enough case that it would take someone whos done it to know the "easy" way.
like when you go in for a T-belt replacement you don't have to drain the oil you can work around that. but the Haynes manual actually calls out draining the engine oil.
like when you go in for a T-belt replacement you don't have to drain the oil you can work around that. but the Haynes manual actually calls out draining the engine oil.
ChaosStarter
New member
I've never done one, so I can't say for sure. But now I wish I got one so I could try. The water pumps on the 3.5L V6 in any fwd-based vehicle (Rav, Camry, Avalon, Sienna, etc) use to pay 9-13 hours because they wanted you to drop the motor and subframe. Then word got out that you could get the pump out if you remove the passanger side motor mount and raise and lower the motor as you needed. Finish the job in 2 or so hours. Toyota found out and cut the times to 2-2.5 hours. (I only got a few of those jobs before they found out
)As for the engine oil, I don't think I've ever drained the oil for a T-belt job. This includes doing crank or oil pump seals on any of the old 1/3MZ, 3/5UZ, or 5S-FE motors. Even doing water pumps and whatnot, you really don't get any kind of contamination. I've checked the oil after jobs and you don't find any coolant or brake clean (cleaning off the old oil).
Sorry for replying late, did you ever pay them the money? Got quoted for 2400 so in a similar boat as you. My 4th gen does have 224k on the other hand
I replaced both sensors on my 04 last month. I got the sensors from Rock Auto and followed this video.
The code never came back. !
FJ Cruiser Knock Sensor (both) Replacement 2hr vs 20hr (Easy Way) - YouTube
The code never came back. !
FJ Cruiser Knock Sensor (both) Replacement 2hr vs 20hr (Easy Way) - YouTube
