Koyorad Aluminum Radiator Upgrade

[Endlessblockades]

The OBDII taps into the temp sensor at the front of the intake manifold since it's the one that communicates with the ECU. The temp sensor at the back of the intake manifold is the one that communicates with the engine coolant gauge on the dash cluster.

Yep, no way I would rely solely on the analog coolant temp gauge. This is especially important for anyone that drives in adverse conditions like you were doing in the desert. I think you got lucky. I would have pulled off to let the engine cool down WAYYYY sooner than that. I think you dodged a bullet not doing any engine damage. 250 is HOT for these engines.

Yeah I was concentrating on navigating some obstacles and wasn't paying enough attention. I shut her down as soon as I noticed. When I restarted I ran the heater on full for the rest of the climb (short) and she was fine on the way down. She never boiled and acted just fine, but I was shocked. Especially because I had trusted the dash gauge several times flying up to Tahoe from the BA and a doing couple 10-milers into the Rubicon trail from the Tahoe side and Barker Pass. That was before I learned that 4Lo ran cooler in general that 4hi, too. Noob activities and I probably did get lucky.....

 

[det107]

There's no engine temperature light.

Old school "Thar She Blows" is another way to tell if engine is overheating.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Been running this rad for a few years now. It's super nice. Also foam tape the fan shroud to make the system as efficient as possible.

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I put in a Koyorad (and an Iconic bracket for my trans cooler) I have substantial gaps in the shroud - mainly top and bottom. I am thinking of trying to find a junkyard shroud and altering the attachment holes to get a better fit, but what type of foam tape did you use? Is it heat-tolerant? Thanks!

 

[brillo_76]

Been running this rad for a few years now. It's super nice. Also foam tape the fan shroud to make the system as efficient as possible.

Now its been a few more years.. Would you say that the all aluminum Koyorad is far superior to a OEM densos? I would suspect that a pure aluminum radiator would be a lot better then a plastictop and bottom denso.

The best radiator would be a 100% copper made one. But I don't think anyone makes copper radiators today for 3rd gen 4 runners as I havent seen one advertized anywhere. Those would be the ultimate cooling radiator. Too bad someone cant 3d print a fan shroud for your Kororad radiators. That fix perfectly

Being none of mine or heavily modified nor does it get hotter then 90s mostly in my environment. I just probably stick with the densos replacements unless they got so bad that they work at all.. IF that occurs I goto a Koyrad or another aluminum radiator ...

 

[2TH4IST]

[MENTION=373697]Endlessblockades[/MENTION] I used your run of the mill foam weatherstripping from home depot. I think it was 3/4" thick for the top and bottom of the shroud and 3/8 or 1/4 for the left and right sides (it's been so long I don't remember the sizes, i just eyeballed the sizes and went out and bought what i needed). I did attach the foam to the shroud not the radiator. I also left a 1/4 inch gap at the end of bottom foam on one side so it will allow water to drain out, from rain and water crossings. Zero issues with the heat from the rad regarding affecting the foam.

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] 100% better then the "oem" denso's. Nothing to worry about on the koyo vs oem. I use oem loosely with these denso's. The denso the koyo replaced the top plastic tank was out of spec for the rad cap. The 2nd sealing surface was about 1mm to low and would not let my cooling system build pressure. Found this out after going through 4 radiator caps. Only downside to the koyo is that it doesn't have the internal trans cooler. So there will be an extra cost.

Either way I don't regret the koyo at all. I know it's reliable, the fit is always amazing (I have a few koyo's in my cars). Also I do believe (I could be wrong) the koyo is a triple pass radiator (down up down or up down up), which is amazing at the price point the koyo is at. It would be even better if someone made a triple pass cross flow copper radiator, but I'd guess it would be in the 1k to 2k price range lol.

 

[brillo_76]

[MENTION=373697]Endlessblockades[/MENTION] I used your run of the mill foam weatherstripping from home depot. I think it was 3/4" thick for the top and bottom of the shroud and 3/8 or 1/4 for the left and right sides (it's been so long I don't remember the sizes, i just eyeballed the sizes and went out and bought what i needed). I did attach the foam to the shroud not the radiator. I also left a 1/4 inch gap at the end of bottom foam on one side so it will allow water to drain out, from rain and water crossings. Zero issues with the heat from the rad regarding affecting the foam.

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] 100% better then the "oem" denso's. Nothing to worry about on the koyo vs oem. I use oem loosely with these denso's. The denso the koyo replaced the top plastic tank was out of spec for the rad cap. The 2nd sealing surface was about 1mm to low and would not let my cooling system build pressure. Found this out after going through 4 radiator caps. Only downside to the koyo is that it doesn't have the internal trans cooler. So there will be an extra cost.

Either way I don't regret the koyo at all. I know it's reliable, the fit is always amazing (I have a few koyo's in my cars). Also I do believe (I could be wrong) the koyo is a triple pass radiator (down up down or up down up), which is amazing at the price point the koyo is at. It would be even better if someone made a triple pass cross flow copper radiator, but I'd guess it would be in the 1k to 2k price range lol.

Good to know.. Thanks for the information as the aftermarket densos seem to be getting quite sketchy in quality. Especially the ones made in China...:-(