KYB Gas-Adjust Shock Install questions

BKyota

New member
Ive just replaced my original Tokico shocks on my 2001 4wd Limited. Original shocks and springs with 250,000 miles. Incredible they still sort of worked. Parts were rusty, removing was much harder than it should have been due to rust. I had to cut off multiple parts to get the job done. The many threads on here were super helpful, most importantly, Timmy the Toolmans YouTube video.

I have completed the install, everything seems correct with a few exceptions, Im hoping you all can help.

#1. The spring perch on the front strut is not adjustable on the KYB, in Timmys video he makes a point of showing the FSM stating the end of the spring should be parallel with the wheel, the Bilstein strut has an adjustable perch allowing for this alignment, the KYB is fixed. The perch will only either face forward or backward, making it out of alignment by 90 degrees. Does this matter? Mark from shox.com where I purchased the shocks says no.

#2. The three bolts on the top hat were so badly rusted and seized up that I could not loosen the bolt closer to the inside which requires the gear wrench. The short 14mm gear wrench just didnt have the leverage to break it. In desperation I cut a small hole with my Dremel in the inside fender so that I could slide a long socket extension from the engine bay through the small hole and break it with a nice long 1/2" breaker bar. This access hole mod also allowed me to torque the bolt back on the specified value which I appreciated. Picture below. Correct me if I am wrong but I don't see the harm in making this small hole. That inner fender doesn't seem to be structural and there are many holes in it already.

#3. The rear shock from KYB comes with only two bushings and two washers. The original shock had a third washer that goes on top of the lower busing between the bushing and the underside of the shock mounting point (dish). Timmys Bilstein shock video is showing that Bilstein includes the third washer to replace the OEM washer. Not having the washer. my rear shock is in installed with the lower bushing pressed directly against the dished out mounting point on the underside. Is this correct for the KYB? Should I order the missing washer from Toyota?

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54818107@N08/50302001652/in/album-72157715827060493/" title="KYB 01"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50302001652_526b236b96_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="KYB 01"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54818107@N08/50301162348/in/album-72157715827060493/" title="KYB 02"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50301162348_b56b46111e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="KYB 02"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54818107@N08/50301162373/in/album-72157715827060493/" title="KYB 03"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50301162373_37695a7c2c_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="KYB 03"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Last edited:
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Ive just replaced my original Tokico shocks on my 2001 4wd Limited. Original shocks and springs with 250,000 miles. Incredible they still sort of worked. Parts were rusty, removing was much harder than it should have been due to rust. I had to cut off multiple parts to get the job done. The many threads on here were super helpful, most importantly, Timmy the Toolmans YouTube video.

I have completed the install, everything seems correct with a few exceptions, Im hoping you all can help.

#1. The spring perch on the front strut is not adjustable on the KYB, in Timmys video he makes a point of showing the FSM stating the end of the spring should be parallel with the wheel, the Bilstein strut has an adjustable perch allowing for this alignment, the KYB is fixed. The perch will only either face forward or backward, making it out of alignment by 90 degrees. Does this matter? Mark from shox.com where I purchased the shocks says no.

#2. The three bolts on the top hat were so badly rusted and seized up that I could not loosen the bolt closer to the inside which requires the gear wrench. The short 14mm gear wrench just didnt have the leverage to break it. In desperation I cut a small hole with my Dremel in the inside fender so that I could slide a long socket extension from the engine bay through the small hole and break it with a nice long 1/2" breaker bar. This access hole mod also allowed me to torque the bolt back on the specified value which I appreciated. Picture below. Correct me if I am wrong but I don't see the harm in making this small hole. That inner fender doesn't seem to be structural and there are many holes in it already.

#3. The rear shock from KYB comes with only two bushings and two washers. The original shock had a third washer that goes on top of the lower busing between the bushing and the underside of the shock mounting point (dish). Timmys Bilstein shock video is showing that Bilstein includes the third washer to replace the OEM washer. Not having the washer. my rear shock is in installed with the lower bushing pressed directly against the dished out mounting point on the underside. Is this correct for the KYB? Should I order the missing washer from Toyota?

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54818107@N08/50302001652/in/album-72157715827060493/" title="KYB 01"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50302001652_526b236b96_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="KYB 01"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54818107@N08/50301162348/in/album-72157715827060493/" title="KYB 02"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50301162348_b56b46111e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="KYB 02"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54818107@N08/50301162373/in/album-72157715827060493/" title="KYB 03"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50301162373_37695a7c2c_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="KYB 03"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


#1. This is fine. As long as the spring is rotated to fit correctly in the bottom perch (end of spring against the flat spot) and the top hat fits into the top and the bottom end of the shock aligns with the bracket in the A-arm you are good to go. The issue arises when the studs in the top hat don't align with the holes in the truck or the bottom of the shock don't align with the A-arm bracket, and you can't get the shock in. This happens when the assembly of the shock/spring is off by a couple of degrees and has to be rotated so it can be installed. The relationship between the angle of the lower eye hole and the top hat studs has to be correct. That's is what Timmy is going over in his video.

#2. Nice move! I think you are fine on this as well.

#3. I also think you are OK on this as well. You could throw that washer on in the future but getting to that top bolt is such a PITA. I would leave it...but that's just me.
 
#1) you can twist the bottom half of the shock body to get the perch to sit in the right orientation..
#2) paint the edges where you for rust prevention.
#3) You should be fine.The washer helps beefs up the rear upper mount which is not so meaty.
 
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#1) you can twist the bottom half of the shock body to get the perch to sit in the right orientation..
#2) paint the edges where you for rust prevention.
#3) You should be fine.The washer helps beefs up the rear upper mount which is not so meaty.


Thanks Spartacus, now as far as I can tell, and what I’ve been told by the shock dealer is the KYB spring perch orientation cannot be adjusted, its hard mounted to the bottom half of the strut. If I twist the bottom of the strut the bolt eye at the bottom and the perch twist together.

Yes, Good call. hitting the cut edges of the hole with paint is needed, doing that today. I wish I had sanded and painted the bottom of the dish on the rear before I installed the new rear shock, maybe if I remove to add the missing washer...
 
Thanks Spartacus, now as far as I can tell, and what I’ve been told by the shock dealer is the KYB spring perch orientation cannot be adjusted, its hard mounted to the bottom half of the strut. If I twist the bottom of the strut the bolt eye at the bottom and the perch twist together.

Yes, Good call. hitting the cut edges of the hole with paint is needed, doing that today. I wish I had sanded and painted the bottom of the dish on the rear before I installed the new rear shock, maybe if I remove to add the missing washer...

Is the front shock installed on the truck or not? I was under the impression that you has the front shocks on. Or is the issue that you can't install the shock as the bottom eye is not ling up. Who assembled the springs onto the shock body?
 
Thanks Spartacus, now as far as I can tell, and what I’ve been told by the shock dealer is the KYB spring perch orientation cannot be adjusted, its hard mounted to the bottom half of the strut. If I twist the bottom of the strut the bolt eye at the bottom and the perch twist together.

Yes, Good call. hitting the cut edges of the hole with paint is needed, doing that today. I wish I had sanded and painted the bottom of the dish on the rear before I installed the new rear shock, maybe if I remove to add the missing washer...

You should be fine.
 
And get on your anti-rust treatment regimen! That rear shock mount point is looking sketchy.

-Charlie


Your right, I regret not sanding that down and hitting it with some rust reformer while I had the chance. If I can find the correct washers that go up in there I’ll take it apart and fix up the rust. I’m at 250,000 miles, looking forward to 350,000
 
Your right, I regret not sanding that down and hitting it with some rust reformer while I had the chance. If I can find the correct washers that go up in there I’ll take it apart and fix up the rust. I’m at 250,000 miles, looking forward to 350,000
Heck, just fluid film the heck out of it and move on... (after making sure the rear lower link frame area is in good shape)

-Charlie
 
Is the front shock installed on the truck or not? I was under the impression that you has the front shocks on. Or is the issue that you can't install the shock as the bottom eye is not ling up. Who assembled the springs onto the shock body?


NJ-4Runner, thanks for your advise. The front shock is installed, drives fine to me. Looks all good. I did disassembly and reassembly myself. I took sport the old shock to reuse the spring and installed on the new shocks and top hats. The issue (may not be an issue) is, according to Timmy the toolman in his video points out the Toyota FSM indicates the end of the spring should be parallel with the wheel. The spring perch on the OEM shock is fixed so that the spring will be in this position. The Bilstein that Timmy installs has a movable spring perch so he is able to rotate spring perch into this same orientation. The KYB has a spring perch that is also fixed (not adjustable) and it is fixed so that it’s either facing forward or to the rear of the car. This may totally be a non issue, it likely has more to do with the way the Romulo shocks are made and those are the OEM shocks so the FSM reflects that.
 

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