Larger oil filter for 1GR-FE (4th gen V6)

[CJ3Flyr]

I have decided to do some oil filter research. My goal was to come up with some larger filter options that would allow for a slight increased oil capacity AND take advantage of the 1GRFE’s filter position (right behind the fan stream). A larger exterior surface would, IMHO allow for slightly more heat transfer. I think the benefit of a larger filter on our application would be cooler oil, more filtration media (long-interval, synthetic guys will like that) and slightly more oil capacity.

The quick, knee-jerk reaction would be to spin-on a PL30001, PH8A, Toyota 15600-41010 or 90915-TD004 (big LC filter), Napa 1515 or similar. If you didn’t want to go that big maybe a PH3600 or PL20195… Easy enough and done, right? Well not so fast. A few quick reads (primarily at the FJC forums, those guys are so adventurous) revealed that due to our super-sweet oil filter location the filters seem to drain out. They seem to drain out overnight or longer and there was talk delays with the oil pressure rising and some noise. Based on other engine experience I don’t doubt that is a real possibility/likelihood. Next, the focus would then seem to be quality of the anti-drainback valve. I don’t doubt that the anti-drainback valve is important but I wasn’t willing to leave it there… On a long sit some oil can drainback through the center (return-side), IMHO and that's where the 'big' filters fail; less than perfect anti-drainback valves and some return through the center. IMHO the smaller volume of the stock sized filter means that if it does drain it refills quickly.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

The next thing that entered into my mind was Frenchie’s blown engine due, in part (we think) to an Amsoil EOA57 filter. In researching and postulating over his trials and tribulations I concluded the following: 1) Yes, the obvious, why try to go that long on a filter, blah, blah, blah. In his defense he was following a non-traditional but reliably sourced alternative program. 2) If the bypass pressure of the EAO57 was lower he might not have blown the engine. Would he have had good filtration and adequate protection? Unlikely, he needed more media (bigger filter).

If I got it right Hastings and Amsoil filters are closely related. The EAO57 is probably the Hastings LF494 (which is unfortunate). It has a 20psi and is the filter Hastings thinks LF494 replaces the OE 90915-20004 and –YZZD3. The EAO57 is the filter that had issues that caused Amsoil to issue a TSB… By Hastings own catalog when you look up a 1GRFE filter it lists a LF589 which has an 14psi bypass, not a 20psi. Maybe the whole fiasco is a GIGO issue, maybe the 14psi is the correct number. Maybe, if the Toyota OE filters really bypasses at 20psi, Toyota needs to revisit that in light of oils getting thinner and the TSB authorizing 5w-20 in many of our 1GRFE’s. Either way something has been lost in translation.

I decided I wanted a bigger filter that would have the following attributes:
a) 1st class, reliable name brand.
b) Larger, taller etc.
c) A bypass lower than 20psi. (Most of the 1GRFE filters I looked at had a bypass rating of between 8 & 17psi. I’d like to be on the lower-end of that but that’s my choice.) With lots of media there’s no reason to have a high bypass pressure and it’s very unlikely you’d ever need to bypass.
d) No “dry starts” or delays in building oil pressure.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

In studying different filters I came across an interesting feature on some filters that go on Perkins motors, a standpipe. The standpipe extends more than halfway into the filter. A standpipe in conjunction with an anti-drainback would/should prevent any drainback beyond what could occur with the OE-sized filter (which doesn’t have a standpipe).

The blue line shows the approximate depth of the standpipes...

I am currently running the Napa 1460. (I just screwed the BT215 on for the photo, I haven't run it yet.) My initial report is good, no dry starts, the filter feels and looks like a very high quality unit. Next up will be the BT215. Both of these filters are smaller in diameter than the PL30001 but DO incorporate a standpipe in addition to the anti-drainback valve. In all fairness, the few who use the K&N and the PL20195 report no issues too. So why do this? I am looking for a big filter that will never require more to fill up than an OE filter (after initial fill of course).

Next up will be the PL30001 sized BT216 and Napa 1806. I think I will end up running the 1806 if this goes well... If anyone else wants to jump in and report back… hint, hint


Hope this is of interest, more later…
:cheers:

 

[VaWoodpecker]

So, in case I missed it, why is the YDDZ3 not on your list?

When I got my 1GRFE rig, the Toyota Dealer did an oil change at the point of sale. Mine then came with the -yddz3 installed.
I've even changed that one out with another -YDDZ3 since then at about 3K after I bought it.

Are folks experiencing problems you describe with that filter?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

So, in case I missed it, why is the YDDZ3 not on your list? Only slightly larger... Truly an OE size. I was focused on substantially bigger filters. The -20004 in the pic is the same as your -yzzd3

When I got my 1GRFE rig, the Toyota Dealer did an oil change at the point of sale. Mine then came with the -yddz3 installed.
I've even changed that one out with another -YDDZ3 since then at about 3K after I bought it. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/68156-90915-20004-oe-oil-filter.html

Are folks experiencing problems you describe with that filter? No issues that I know of...

:cheers:

 

[davem]

nice post im interested in seeing which filter u go with. i to would like to run a larger filter for the same reasons you have stated.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I am pretty sold on the standpipe design being the ‘magic bullet’ for bigger filters on our 1GR-FE’s. It seems a high-quality anti-drainback valve is important but with no standpipe there’s still some drainback issues. With a standpipe the 1GR-FE produces oil pressure almost instantly with my Eneos 5w-20, hot or cold. I admittedly jammed in some trials and didn’t leave any of the filters on long enough to conclusively say if one is better than the other. I did spin on a premium, non-standpipe big filter and it drained fairly quickly and I could see the delay on start-up. (FYI- Denso Land Cruiser filter, 15600-41010, it’s a PL30001/PH8a sized filter.) There is no doubt in my mind the standpipe is real and it works for our application.

I, for reasons of my own, including Frenchie’s story in the previous link prefer low bypass pressures. Below are some crosses to standpipe designed filters that you may be interested in. All have a low bypass pressure threshold except the 1460Napa/51460Wix which has a 14(15)-17psi bypass which should be fine for the 1GR-FE. I don’t know how you’d ever clog it to need the bypass. All others bypass in the 8-12psi range.

Filter choice(s) #1 is the 3” diameter and 5”+/- in the length category. (Look at PureOne PL20195/Napa 1516 for a visual comparison.) If you like this size some good options are the Baldwin BT215**, Napa 1460**, Wix 51460, Donaldson P554408, Fram PH2895, Purolator L30138 and I am sure there’s others.

Filter choice(s) #2 is the 3.7”diameter and 5”+/- category. (Look at a PureOne PL30001, Fram PH8a, Napa 1515 etc. for a visual comparison). Some good options that include a standpipe are: Baldwin BT216, Napa 1806**, Wix 51806, Donaldson P554403, Mann W940/24, Purolator L30137, Fram PH2821A and I’m sure there’s others… I will run this class due to ease of purchase; between Grainger and Napa they’re easy to buy.

Filter choice(s) #3 is the 3.7”diameter and 7”+/- category. This is for those who just have to have the biggest one out there. Some good standpipe options are the Baldwin BT237, Napa 1459**, Wix 51459, Donaldson P554407, Fram PH977A, Mann 850/7, Purolator L40107, Fleetgaurd LF3685 (synthetic media) and I’m sure there’s more…

**These are the only filters that I have seen with my own eyes and confirmed the standpipe, I am however fairly confident in the numbers I provided. Just remember I am not claiming 100% accuracy but, hey, your reading stuff on the internet. Of course you’ll approach it with some skepticism

The one thing that seems consistent as I searched out choices is the Perkins spec. Perkins seems to = standpipe. Why? No clue… It is a correlation though. I need to read more at BITOG about commercial filters too. For example Fram & Purolator low-end filters don’t have that good of a reputation and I wonder if the commercial line is the same.

Below are a few of pics to clarify what the standpipe is and what it does.

These are the two I cut open side-by-side:

 

[CJ3Flyr]

This is the Baldwin BT215. Subjectively the components and filter media seemed ok. Nothing about this filter made me say “wow, this is great”, nothing made me say “what a POS”.
You can see how the oil (assuming the anti-drainback valve holds) can’t drain below a certain point. That means this filter, after initial fill, should never take more than the smallest OE filter to refill and then build oil pressure.

This is the Napa1459. It’s a better design IMHO with better quality housing and materials. The media itself was very similar. You can see the Wix approach to standpipe is a bit different. To me it looks like it would flow oil through the media more evenly than the oil would flow through the BT215’s media. I think the BT215 would work fine, I just like the Napa better.

The bypass hole on the Napa looks too small to me but I’m sure it’s fine… That’s the only negative of the Napa.

BT215 bypass hole:

Hope this is of interest...

If anyone knows where to buy the Mann Filters please post it up!

 

[SkylineGTRracer]

Great research man, mind if I ask a few? would you think since you have a bigger filter would the oil remain cleaner and cooler for longer on sustained power levels compared to the regular one. Since you have a bigger filter would you recommend a oil bypass filter with the bigger one or is just the one enough. And lastly what do you think would be the total investment of doing this? I mean I get what your doing and all but I change my oil (RP) every 3-4500 miles for example would you think doubling that using this system would be practical or no. would it depend on driving style and situations I think so but I think using synthetic would level the playing field.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Great research man, mind if I ask a few? would you think since you have a bigger filter would the oil remain cleaner and cooler for longer on sustained power levels compared to the regular one. Yes but the question is how much It HAS to be better filtered and better cooled. Since you have a bigger filter would you recommend a oil bypass filter with the bigger one or is just the one enough. Given you use a first-class oil at a short interval I'd say it would be serious overkill. Those dual remote mounts have 3 purposes in my mind: 1) They work as a pseudo oil cooler. 2) They do have extra filtration value for long interval oil changers. 3) If your vehicle has the filter located in a hard-to-reach, PIA location the remotes can ease the task of oil changes. And lastly what do you think would be the total investment of doing this? I don't know, I haven't done one since the mid-80's. Amsoil website and many other places list kits. I mean I get what your doing and all but I change my oil (RP) every 3-4500 miles for example would you think doubling that using this system would be practical or no. would it depend on driving style and situations I think so but I think using synthetic would level the playing field. You're fine with OE filters. If you wanted to use a larger filter as I outlined it wouldn't hurt. I don't know how much it would help you though...

Another plus for the bigger filter is with each pass a higher percentile of the oil is filtered. Years ago I read an article about filters. It said that with the new (at the time) smaller filters up to 2/3's of the oil would bypass rather than pass through the media. I don't know if that's quite right but I remember reading that 15 years ago.

A bigger filter like I've outlined should increase the percentile of oil filtered with each 'pass' through the filter.

Given what you're doing I might look at a bigger, single filter. Most of the filters I've listed seem to cost $10-$15 each.
:cheers:

 

[SkylineGTRracer]

This ones for you CJ3Flyr. When I was putting my APR X1 on my truck I saw the tacoma with the V-8 oil filter. A got a pic for ya! The truck was in for a T-56 transmission. Hope it has some usefulness to you. If you want some more info I can talk to Mr. Phillips.

 

[larryg]

purolator

I made the mistake of using a PureOne 20195 on my 04 v6 4Runner. after a 200 mi drive, my warm engine sat for no more than 10 minutes when i decided to do an o&f change. I took off the filter and there was NO oil inside the filter. Ive been dry starting for 3 months. i havent heard any different noises at start up but Im worried that there is residual damage that will show up later. Im sticking with Toyota filters from now on. Incidently, a Toyota filter cost less at the dealer than the pureOne did on sale at advance a.p. this OC im trying QS Defy. An Amsoil distributor sent me a survey and of 10 oils tested, QS Defy came in quite favorable to Mobil 1 and Amsoil. ive always used Castrol blends in the past