The-last-hitman
New member
nice build
If work takes me to CO I'd love that. I'll be at the FJ Summit for sure.
I have Amber D2 Amber floods, aka the "Driving" ones I believe. They're DOT approved, but just barely.
In the rear i have 4 D2 whites, two in the bumper, and 2 up top. I don't have any wiring photos but I'll try to grab some for you tomorrow.
I think you meant Trail Grappler vs Terra Grappler.
Honestly I find the Trail Grapplers quieter on pavement. They'll hum a little but unless I turn the radio off and roll the windows down I hardly hear them.
At slower speeds you'll get some vibration just due to the tread pattern. Honestly they've been great tires.
Great build! This is a dream rig.
Good luck with the upcoming wiring project.
Is there any tangible reason to get the adjustable ICON Adjustable Track Bar?
It's not expensive, but is it a worthwhile upgrade? From what I've read it's a dead nuts easy swap. No lift or jacks required.
Negative, never had to mess with mine. When I did the suspension swap, it fit right into place, why the adjustment function is there is beyond me...
Dropped the truck off today for a little work before it gets the Pelfrey aluminum front end, ARB skid plates (powder coated black), and 30" rigid light bar in the front.
As much as I was hoping for the Bushwacker fender flares I don't think those will work, for two reasons:
1. Snorkel
2. Width
The flares run 5.50" up the body, which is well into the snorkel's territory, and likely cutting them to fit would end up with a weird visual implementation that might likely have the cuts going through where the pockets are.
I think the bigger issue is that they're so wide, that they'll make the truck look fat. And I do not want to run spacers. So I think what we may do is just line-x the existing flares to help tie in the front and rear bumpers to the sliders.
Bummer! I wanted to see them on your setup.
I did too, but all the photos I've seen of them on end up making the truck look top heavy. I'm of the opinion the wheels should come out nice and even with the flares. And in the BW's case visually they stick out further, which doesn't look good.
Any plans to change wheels in the future?
Dropped the truck off today for a little work before it gets the Pelfrey aluminum front end, ARB skid plates (powder coated black), and 30" rigid light bar in the front.
As much as I was hoping for the Bushwacker fender flares I don't think those will work, for two reasons:
1. Snorkel
2. Width
The flares run 5.50" up the body, which is well into the snorkel's territory, and likely cutting them to fit would end up with a weird visual implementation that might likely have the cuts going through where the pockets are.
I think the bigger issue is that they're so wide, that they'll make the truck look fat. And I do not want to run spacers. So I think what we may do is just line-x the existing flares to help tie in the front and rear bumpers to the sliders.
My thought exactly, and I have been contemplating (line-x ing) doing the same to my factory flares. If Bushwacker would make an OEM overlay I could be all about it, but the deep pocket ones they have produced just don't look right.
The snorkel looks great BTW, just don't put it to the test! These vehicles aren't waterproof, I learned the hard way and spent a week tearing my interior apart and steam cleaning my carpet. & do, do, do the rear diff. breather mod before any prolonged over landing trip that involves traversing bodies of water.
Truck looks great and the Pelfrey front end will be awesome.
Flying back from California as we speak. But I can get you photos later today. What I did was have bike top tube covers made that are about 12" long. By a local bag company. This keeps the ends of the trax from being plastic on metal of the gobi rack. I use a bike lock to keep the maxtrax locked because in Portland anything not locked will be stolen. I then use some 36" bungee cords to hold things in place. I'm going to swap those to black ratchet straps since the bungees have a tendency to get brittle in the sun and rain here.
Any chance you post a picture of your Maxtrax mounted and showing how they are held and locked? Thanks.
Thule makes some rack-straps that may work for you. they have keyed, locking cylinders and a nylon-lined, steel cable anti-theft strap. i had a similar set from a different manufacturer a few years back.I then have a bike cable lock securing them to the Gobi Rack, and use a set of bungie cords to hold it firm to the rack. I'm likely going to change the bungies to a set of ratchet straps once I can find some good ones that'll survive the constant Pacific Northwest moisture.
Thule makes some rack-straps that may work for you. they have keyed, locking cylinders and a nylon-lined, steel cable anti-theft strap. i had a similar set from a different manufacturer a few years back.
Thule Locking Straps (13 ft) 831