LawnDart's Build Thread

If work takes me to CO I'd love that. I'll be at the FJ Summit for sure.

I have Amber D2 Amber floods, aka the "Driving" ones I believe. They're DOT approved, but just barely.

In the rear i have 4 D2 whites, two in the bumper, and 2 up top. I don't have any wiring photos but I'll try to grab some for you tomorrow.

I could have used the rear lights tonight installing a hitch receiver on my dad's Lexus. And the ambers in the bumper because light
 
I think you meant Trail Grappler vs Terra Grappler.



Honestly I find the Trail Grapplers quieter on pavement. They'll hum a little but unless I turn the radio off and roll the windows down I hardly hear them.



At slower speeds you'll get some vibration just due to the tread pattern. Honestly they've been great tires.


I bought my Trail Grapplers after seeing and talking with [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION]. Best decision I've made with my truck. They look cool as hell and preformed extremely well on the trails. [emoji106]
 
LawnDart -- great truck, love the choices in the mods you have done. Looks like fun for your uses! Great photography as well!

Can't wait to see the new front bumper when you get it!
 
Great build! This is a dream rig.

Good luck with the upcoming wiring project.

Thanks. I can likely do the wiring separately. Wire it to the battery and then connect my extra gear.

The week I get back to Oregon were installing the prototype snorkel, then fender flares and Pelfrey front end.
 
Is there any tangible reason to get the adjustable ICON Adjustable Track Bar?

It's not expensive, but is it a worthwhile upgrade? From what I've read it's a dead nuts easy swap. No lift or jacks required.

Negative, never had to mess with mine. When I did the suspension swap, it fit right into place, why the adjustment function is there is beyond me...
 
Negative, never had to mess with mine. When I did the suspension swap, it fit right into place, why the adjustment function is there is beyond me...

From what I've found out since originally asking is the track bar is more important when you go to much bigger tire sizes. Like 35". Since I have no plans for that then you're right, it's not a needed upgrade.

I was debating the upper links but even icon themselves said those aren't high impact parts and are upgraded more for looks than function.
 
Dropped the truck off today for a little work before it gets the Pelfrey aluminum front end, ARB skid plates (powder coated black), and 30" rigid light bar in the front.

As much as I was hoping for the Bushwacker fender flares I don't think those will work, for two reasons:

1. Snorkel
2. Width

The flares run 5.50" up the body, which is well into the snorkel's territory, and likely cutting them to fit would end up with a weird visual implementation that might likely have the cuts going through where the pockets are.

I think the bigger issue is that they're so wide, that they'll make the truck look fat. And I do not want to run spacers. So I think what we may do is just line-x the existing flares to help tie in the front and rear bumpers to the sliders.
 
Dropped the truck off today for a little work before it gets the Pelfrey aluminum front end, ARB skid plates (powder coated black), and 30" rigid light bar in the front.

As much as I was hoping for the Bushwacker fender flares I don't think those will work, for two reasons:

1. Snorkel
2. Width

The flares run 5.50" up the body, which is well into the snorkel's territory, and likely cutting them to fit would end up with a weird visual implementation that might likely have the cuts going through where the pockets are.

I think the bigger issue is that they're so wide, that they'll make the truck look fat. And I do not want to run spacers. So I think what we may do is just line-x the existing flares to help tie in the front and rear bumpers to the sliders.

Bummer! I wanted to see them on your setup.
 
Bummer! I wanted to see them on your setup.

I did too, but all the photos I've seen of them on end up making the truck look top heavy. I'm of the opinion the wheels should come out nice and even with the flares. And in the BW's case visually they stick out further, which doesn't look good.
 
I did too, but all the photos I've seen of them on end up making the truck look top heavy. I'm of the opinion the wheels should come out nice and even with the flares. And in the BW's case visually they stick out further, which doesn't look good.

Any plans to change wheels in the future?
 
Any plans to change wheels in the future?

If anything I'd go to the Stealth Custom Series, but likely no plans to change.

Again for the time being I think the BW flares are out. Even if width was the only issue I think the snorkel just might make for enough problems. And if given the choice between flares or snorkel...snorkel all day.
 
Dropped the truck off today for a little work before it gets the Pelfrey aluminum front end, ARB skid plates (powder coated black), and 30" rigid light bar in the front.

As much as I was hoping for the Bushwacker fender flares I don't think those will work, for two reasons:

1. Snorkel
2. Width

The flares run 5.50" up the body, which is well into the snorkel's territory, and likely cutting them to fit would end up with a weird visual implementation that might likely have the cuts going through where the pockets are.

I think the bigger issue is that they're so wide, that they'll make the truck look fat. And I do not want to run spacers. So I think what we may do is just line-x the existing flares to help tie in the front and rear bumpers to the sliders.

My thought exactly, and I have been contemplating (line-x ing) doing the same to my factory flares. If Bushwacker would make an OEM overlay I could be all about it, but the deep pocket ones they have produced just don't look right.

The snorkel looks great BTW, just don't put it to the test! These vehicles aren't waterproof, I learned the hard way and spent a week tearing my interior apart and steam cleaning my carpet. & do, do, do the rear diff. breather mod before any prolonged over landing trip that involves traversing bodies of water.

Truck looks great and the Pelfrey front end will be awesome.
 
My thought exactly, and I have been contemplating (line-x ing) doing the same to my factory flares. If Bushwacker would make an OEM overlay I could be all about it, but the deep pocket ones they have produced just don't look right.

The snorkel looks great BTW, just don't put it to the test! These vehicles aren't waterproof, I learned the hard way and spent a week tearing my interior apart and steam cleaning my carpet. & do, do, do the rear diff. breather mod before any prolonged over landing trip that involves traversing bodies of water.

Truck looks great and the Pelfrey front end will be awesome.

Thanks. Rear diff breather mod was done and relocated up into the body. It's about function at this point and the bushwhacker slim neat but I absolutely do not want to use spacers, so even if I could make the flares fit I think we're at the point where we keep the stock fares but coat them. This way we keep the same look but get the visual aspect to tie in the front bumper to the back. Again purely about function since the snorkel determined what was needed.
 
Flying back from California as we speak. But I can get you photos later today. What I did was have bike top tube covers made that are about 12" long. By a local bag company. This keeps the ends of the trax from being plastic on metal of the gobi rack. I use a bike lock to keep the maxtrax locked because in Portland anything not locked will be stolen. I then use some 36" bungee cords to hold things in place. I'm going to swap those to black ratchet straps since the bungees have a tendency to get brittle in the sun and rain here.

Any chance you post a picture of your Maxtrax mounted and showing how they are held and locked? Thanks.
 
Any chance you post a picture of your Maxtrax mounted and showing how they are held and locked? Thanks.

Unfortunately I can't since my truck is at my shop being prepared for the Pelfrey front end.

Basically here's what I did; I went to a local company and had padded black nylon covers built for the tubes of the Gobi Rack. Basically they're top tube covers for bikes, but made much shorter, about 12" each. I did this so the boards wouldn't be grinding into the powdercoat on the Gobi.

I then have a bike cable lock securing them to the Gobi Rack, and use a set of bungie cords to hold it firm to the rack. I'm likely going to change the bungies to a set of ratchet straps once I can find some good ones that'll survive the constant Pacific Northwest moisture.
 
I then have a bike cable lock securing them to the Gobi Rack, and use a set of bungie cords to hold it firm to the rack. I'm likely going to change the bungies to a set of ratchet straps once I can find some good ones that'll survive the constant Pacific Northwest moisture.
Thule makes some rack-straps that may work for you. they have keyed, locking cylinders and a nylon-lined, steel cable anti-theft strap. i had a similar set from a different manufacturer a few years back.

Thule Locking Straps (13 ft) 831
 
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