LawnDart's Build Thread

[LawnDart]

I'm driving out to Idaho tomorrow to swap my CBI single swing arm bumper to a dual swing arm.

Originally we were also going to try to mount a propane tank (5lb) on the right swing arm, but the space was too limited, as such we're scrapping that idea.

They offered to mount it horizontally under the jerry cans but that'd be a no go since propane tanks need to operate vertically.

I did have them install a second 2" receiver hitch, so I can eventually put a mountain bike on the back similar to:

Keep in mind that's a single swing arm.

 

[wfo9]

It's less for air down as it is for keeping the tire intact in case of a torn sidewall. Most of Oregon's rocks are shale, and because of that if you head into the mountains you really do need E-rated tires, and the paths can be brutal on sidewalls.

Not sure I follow (and not trying to argue or anything...). Bead locks don't help at all with sidewall strength. They will hold the bead at very low pressure and crazy angles, but the sidewall resistance to tear or puncture is only a function of the tire construction. If you are not going down to very very low pressures, the beadlocks are not really doing anything for you. If the terrain is extremely sharp and super hard on sidewalls, maybe consider some bias plys..They hold up better than any radial, but road performance also suffers greatly. I feel you need a really wide track to take advantage of bead locks and the pressure they can run. Maybe the +2" on the 5th gen is enough. Just not sure until I try it (which will be pretty soon). A poor mans beadlock is simply a narrow (7-8") rim on a 12.5" tire. Works pretty good.

 

[Forest RnR]

I'm driving out to Idaho tomorrow to swap my CBI single swing arm bumper to a dual swing arm.

Originally we were also going to try to mount a propane tank (5lb) on the right swing arm, but the space was too limited, as such we're scrapping that idea.

They offered to mount it horizontally under the jerry cans but that'd be a no go since propane tanks need to operate vertically.

I did have them install a second 2" receiver hitch, so I can eventually put a mountain bike on the back similar to:

Keep in mind that's a single swing arm.

I wish I "needed" a set of those wheels, but too heavy and too expensive for my mild needs.

 

[LawnDart]

I wish I "needed" a set of those wheels, but too heavy and too expensive for my mild needs.

Those are what I'll be using for my build.

 

[LawnDart]

Not sure I follow (and not trying to argue or anything...). Bead locks don't help at all with sidewall strength. They will hold the bead at very low pressure and crazy angles, but the sidewall resistance to tear or puncture is only a function of the tire construction. If you are not going down to very very low pressures, the beadlocks are not really doing anything for you. If the terrain is extremely sharp and super hard on sidewalls, maybe consider some bias plys..They hold up better than any radial, but road performance also suffers greatly. I feel you need a really wide track to take advantage of bead locks and the pressure they can run. Maybe the +2" on the 5th gen is enough. Just not sure until I try it (which will be pretty soon). A poor mans beadlock is simply a narrow (7-8") rim on a 12.5" tire. Works pretty good.

Since I'll be on a +2 I'll let you know. But right now finding rims that don't have fake beadlocks is the challenge. And given that I'd rather run real beadlocks.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Just looked at the Hutchinson Rock Monsters & they look sic....
Silver or Black?

Looks like they have a new style of locking the tire bead as well and DOT approved!

Nice rig!

Hutchinson are one of the only Aluminum BL with a DOT casting... $$$. Some Mrec's come with them as many forgin military run them ;-)

 

[Trail-AMMO]

I'm of the same frame of mind, I don't want a "beadlock looking wheel" if it's not really a beadlock...

All that said, some good point have been made. Do you really need a beadlock????..... Maybe not. Honestly the last time I rolled a bead was on my heavy 7K LBS 80 series running up Browns camp at 10 PSI....

The 5th gens are lighter, hence why I asked about your build direction... Expo Vs. Trail rig. Aluminum Vs. Steel ect... I've always liked steel wheels for expo... And here is why. If your way off the grid running low PSI you can bend a steel wheel. But you can also fix a steel wheel what off the grid with a 5lbs sledge. Been there done it. Aluminum wheels crack, but are much lighter...

Now adding beadlock into that equation is a whole different discussion. All Beadlocks are heavy. I think my HMMV's are like 97lbs without the inner ring or rock rings... If I could do that in aluminum like Hutchinson.... That's no doubt some weight savings. Weight savings = torque and horsepower and could = MPG important in EXPO. No doubt that weight will come in another form, ARB fridge, RTT ect... But save weight where you can when you can....

I'll leave it with this thought. I've done search and rescue for a number of years on various teams and missions. Active mostly on two teams which two very different approaches to gear.

One was a Hasty Team with special vehicles, I could drive my rig or a county rig with all the gear I could fit.... And be ready to spend a week or more solo.

The other was a ground search team, where you could be inserted into a situation and bring only what you can carry on your back, and then still be ready to spend 2-3 days solo... You bet you wanted things as light as possible.

Two very different approaches, but in both cases you wanted it all JIC...

Back to the topic at hand, BL needed? That's your call..... But if I were running them and could afford them Hutchinsons would be the best "real beadlock" one can get as its a true "dual bead lock".

-A

 

[wfo9]

I like those rims.. Look nice and well made plus double beadlock is the bomb.
Still think it is an odd combo for a tire under 37"... but hey, it is only money and you can't take it with you. At least that is what I'm telling myself as I'm about to order more parts for my truck that I really don't need at all.

 

[LawnDart]

Thanks, the only other rim I'd consider is the new 'deep dish' SCS F5 rims they just announced, but they won't be available till winter, which is a no go for my build.

I refuse to run fake beadlocks, as the look is dreadful. Sorry, I'm just not a fan. If I could use my current rims I would but stupidly Toyota made them 7" and not 8 or 8.5". So there's that.

Is beadlock overkill? Yes, very. Does it come with downsides? Oh absolutely. Does it come with upsides? Yes they do.

It's all a give and a take, no doubt about it. In the ideal world I'd have 8-8.5" versions of my TRD rims. FN makes their FN FX reproductions, but they don't seem to have an update on when the next batch will be.

I'm of the same frame of mind, I don't want a "beadlock looking wheel" if it's not really a beadlock...

All that said, some good point have been made. Do you really need a beadlock????..... Maybe not. Honestly the last time I rolled a bead was on my heavy 7K LBS 80 series running up Browns camp at 10 PSI....

The 5th gens are lighter, hence why I asked about your build direction... Expo Vs. Trail rig. Aluminum Vs. Steel ect... I've always liked steel wheels for expo... And here is why. If your way off the grid running low PSI you can bend a steel wheel. But you can also fix a steel wheel what off the grid with a 5lbs sledge. Been there done it. Aluminum wheels crack, but are much lighter...

Now adding beadlock into that equation is a whole different discussion. All Beadlocks are heavy. I think my HMMV's are like 97lbs without the inner ring or rock rings... If I could do that in aluminum like Hutchinson.... That's no doubt some weight savings. Weight savings = torque and horsepower and could = MPG important in EXPO. No doubt that weight will come in another form, ARB fridge, RTT ect... But save weight where you can when you can....

I'll leave it with this thought. I've done search and rescue for a number of years on various teams and missions. Active mostly on two teams which two very different approaches to gear.

One was a Hasty Team with special vehicles, I could drive my rig or a county rig with all the gear I could fit.... And be ready to spend a week or more solo.

The other was a ground search team, where you could be inserted into a situation and bring only what you can carry on your back, and then still be ready to spend 2-3 days solo... You bet you wanted things as light as possible.

Two very different approaches, but in both cases you wanted it all JIC...

Back to the topic at hand, BL needed? That's your call..... But if I were running them and could afford them Hutchinsons would be the best "real beadlock" one can get as its a true "dual bead lock".

-A

I like those rims.. Look nice and well made plus double beadlock is the bomb.
Still think it is an odd combo for a tire under 37"... but hey, it is only money and you can't take it with you. At least that is what I'm telling myself as I'm about to order more parts for my truck that I really don't need at all.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

If I could use my current rims I would but stupidly Toyota made them 7" and not 8 or 8.5".

It's all a give and a take, no doubt about it. In the ideal world I'd have 8-8.5" versions of my TRD rims. FN makes their FN FX reproductions, but they don't seem to have an update on when the next batch will be.

You know when you convert a "standard wheel" to a beadlock you add 1" - 1.5" to the over all width of the rim..... As the "lock ring" gets milled and welded onto the outer lip of the wheel, so your tire now sits outboard of the old bead location.... At least that's how it's done on a steel wheel.

OMF Performance Products | Beadlock Conversions

That would put you right where you need to be.... And you'd be rocking a custom real TRD one of a kind wheel....

Just something to consider. Here is an FJ wheel converted.

-A

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Here is another FJ wheel, this is from the first company I found with a Google search BTW.

 

[LawnDart]

First. It wouldn't be street legal. Secondly it wouldn't solve the back spacing issue that exists with what we would need the rim to do.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

First. It wouldn't be street legal. Secondly it wouldn't solve the back spacing issue that exists with what we would need the rim to do.

Street legal.... Well that's a "grey area" for sure... Most think BL's are not street legal unless stamped with a DOT stamp....

However, I have quite a few close buddies in various LEO, and from what I've researched and read in the code books there isn't anything that specifically says you can't run BL's on the street. Most LEO who hand out those tickets aren't familiar with the specifics around the infraction. And when and if you took it to court it's been dropped. This could of course vary from state to state...

The safe bet is to get one with a DOT stamp, no road side question there when stopped....

The BS.... Ya.... Ya got me there aside from running wheel spacers. And personally I'm not a fan. Even tho I have them on my 5th gen.

-A

 

[LawnDart]

Yep and the rock monsters are in fact totally approved.

Street legal.... Well that's a "grey area" for sure... Most think BL's are not street legal unless stamped with a DOT stamp....

However, I have quite a few close buddies in various LEO, and from what I've researched and read in the code books there isn't anything that specifically says you can't run BL's on the street. Most LEO who hand out those tickets aren't familiar with the specifics around the infraction. And when and if you took it to court it's been dropped. This could of course vary from state to state...

The safe bet is to get one with a DOT stamp, no road side question there when stopped....

The BS.... Ya.... Ya got me there aside from running wheel spacers. And personally I'm not a fan. Even tho I have them on my 5th gen.

-A

 

[mybabydaddy]

Street legal.... Well that's a "grey area" for sure... Most think BL's are not street legal unless stamped with a DOT stamp....






"The BS.... Ya.... Ya got me there aside from running wheel spacers. And personally I'm not a fan. Even tho I have them on my 5th gen."

Swear I'm not hijacking [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION].... Just had to laugh at this quote since I've used the exact same quote like 30 times (tho I've since ditched mine for FN wheels).

LD - keep the posts coming... I continually cut n paste your truck photos to my Jeep buddies to show them how a 4Runner can really be!!






2014 TEP w/ KDSS / Bilstein 5100s (front at 1.75) / Cornfed 1 inch rear spacers / 265/70 Nitto TG G2s / FN Cntrsteer Type X / RCI Front skid / Yakima Cross bars / NFab Steps

 

[gm350reratliff]

First. It wouldn't be street legal. Secondly it wouldn't solve the back spacing issue that exists with what we would need the rim to do.

The TRDP wheels have 4" of backspacing and the Rock Monster wheels have 4.5". What overall backspacing are you shooting for?

 

[LawnDart]

The TRDP wheels have 4" of backspacing and the Rock Monster wheels have 4.5". What overall backspacing are you shooting for?

4.5 will do. Remember it's less about the fronts and more about matching track widths

 

[gm350reratliff]

Ok, so spacers on the rear axle only, unless you are having a wider rear axle installed.

The RM wheels are sweet! Definitely overkill but I do like the idea of having the both inner and outer beads locked.

 

[LawnDart]

So I'm still in the process of re-routing cables (HAM and rearview camera needs to be reinstalled and mounted next to the new second hitch) on my dual swing away bumper.

But one of the things I dislike about most bumper designs is that it almost always has a swing arm touching the bumper directly via powder coat to powder coat. What results is wear, and the wear eventually reveals the bare steel. Steel rusts really bad in the PNW.

I made some contact surfaces using laser cut delrin plastic on the single swing arm, and the results worked, but the pads never held up all that well. So this time I had a more complicated task, because the arms have to interact with eachother and touch the bumper in the middle top as well. So i had to make 3 pads.

This time I opted for using HDPE, which is essentially cutting board material, and is really flexible in smaller thicknesses and very resistant to abrasion from friction. Plus besides a heat gun it can be easily cut with an x-acto blade.

 

[Okki]

[MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION], where did you get the HDPE? I'm using a bump
Pad right now and the adhesive back does not hold.

Thanks.
Okki