LawnDart's Build Thread

Curious where did you get the d-links in your bumper from?


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You mean the shackles? They're the WARN epic shackles.

Also, Blonde, Brunette, Redhead...I don't even see the code anymore:

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Amazing transformation from stock to current. Showed my wife and she was impressed. Quick question regarding your fender flares...they are stock, unpainted but what about on the bumper? I'm looking into line-x for my flares. Did you just plasti-dip the bumper part? And those are weather techs on your windows? Thanks!
 
Amazing transformation from stock to current. Showed my wife and she was impressed. Quick question regarding your fender flares...they are stock, unpainted but what about on the bumper? I'm looking into line-x for my flares. Did you just plasti-dip the bumper part? And those are weather techs on your windows? Thanks!

Bumper is 3M matte black wrapped with a clear matte wrap over to match the stock unpainted flaires (which are also matte clear wrapped).

Don't line-x. It's too heavy for the clips.

And yes, those are weathertechs. I find they chatter a tiny bit in the wind around 70mph. I will likely eventually replace them.
 
Wiring Questions

Yes, the Tacoma (automatic) is the same fit for the 4Runner.

2005+ Tacoma Fuse Panel For Automatic Transmission | Pelfreybilt

It uses the 285 fuse block. I use a 120a breaker. As well.

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I was wondering about your auxiliary fuse block setup. Is this a continuous hot fuse block off your main battery (I've looked through your mods and didn't see any information about a secondary battery install). I assume it is since you usually always want power to your fridge with the addition of a switch, but I'd rather inquire about your setup than make an ass of you & me. also could you explain more to me about your solar setup. I'm at a loss of how it's wired, and how you can run your accessories/charge your battery. I appreciate any input here.
 
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I was wondering about your auxiliary fuse block setup. Is this a continuous hot fuse block off your main battery (I've looked through your mods and didn't see any information about a secondary battery install). I assume it is since you usually always want power to your fridge with the addition of a switch, but I'd rather inquire about your setup than make an ass of you & me. also could you explain more to me about your solar setup. I'm at a loss of how it's wired, and how you can run your accessories/charge your battery. I appreciate any input here.

Yes it's off my main battery.

What is confusing you on it exactly?
 
At risk of being a pain, and understanding you're carrying the big meat now, but could you measure the horizontal distance from the face of your on-arm receiver hitch to the outside edge of your tire? I'm trying to figure out how much space is needed for a bike rack to clear the spare. I'm fairly sure it'll require an extension but I'm hoping to avoid having bikes six feet behind the rig. Thanks!
 
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Why is your solar wired to the auxiliary fuse block? Why would it not be wired to the battery you are wanting to charge.

Because power runs both ways. It also cleans up the wiring and has one less pair of wires connected to the battery block. One thing to consider, and I'm kind of parroting a discussion I had with [MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION] is that you may lose a very very negligible percentage of an amp doing this, but it's kind of moot.

Current really doesn't care as long as it can pass back through from the fuse block, to the breaker, into the battery. The result is a cleaner visual appearance.
 
At risk of being a pain, and understanding you're carrying the big meat now, but could you measure the horizontal distance from the face of your on-arm receiver hitch to the outside edge of your tire? I'm trying to figure out how much space is needed for a bike rack to clear the spare. I'm fairly sure it'll require an extension but I'm hoping to avoid having bikes six feet behind the rig. Thanks!

I'll try to measure later this morning.
 
At risk of being a pain, and understanding you're carrying the big meat now, but could you measure the horizontal distance from the face of your on-arm receiver hitch to the outside edge of your tire? I'm trying to figure out how much space is needed for a bike rack to clear the spare. I'm fairly sure it'll require an extension but I'm hoping to avoid having bikes six feet behind the rig. Thanks!

With my 35s...it's 14" from the face of the hitch to the outer edge of the tire.
 
With my 35s...it's 14" from the face of the hitch to the outer edge of the tire.

Thanks! Much appreciated. I expect a 12" extension would just about zero out the loss with a typical 275 or 285/70 tire then.

Looks like my 1Up only has about 3.5" of space when flipped up and needs 9" when down to clear the first tray (with fat adapter spacers). I've really been looking at a Recon Rack but he doesn't yet support fat bikes.
 
Thanks! Much appreciated. I expect a 12" extension would just about zero out the loss with a typical 275 or 285/70 tire then.

Looks like my 1Up only has about 3.5" of space when flipped up and needs 9" when down to clear the first tray (with fat adapter spacers). I've really been looking at a Recon Rack but he doesn't yet support fat bikes.

Might work, I only use mine for a camera gimbal mount, which is why I had it designed.
 
Because power runs both ways. It also cleans up the wiring and has one less pair of wires connected to the battery block. One thing to consider, and I'm kind of parroting a discussion I had with [MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION] is that you may lose a very very negligible percentage of an amp doing this, but it's kind of moot.

Current really doesn't care as long as it can pass back through from the fuse block, to the breaker, into the battery. The result is a cleaner visual appearance.

ahh, I started thinking about it that way the other night. I appreciate the info!
 
Been spending a lot of time working on my other 4x4 investment, aka my pup:

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Who unfortunately is laid out from getting spayed. That said she loves rides in the trucks, despite being too short to jump up into it.

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One of the things we designed pretty carefully with my goose gear setup was accommodating a dog kennel. Obviously things got pretty side tracked when the day after we got it installed my dog got sick and was put down. Half a year later I got to finally test it out with Pozzi's kennel, and it works great.

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Anyways, what's upcoming on the truck is:
-Sound deaden all 5 doors
-Swapping out the rear springs, which should help combat some of the 'toyota lean' and also lift the rear end up .75-1" more, allowing us to futz with the leveling on the front of the truck. Yeesh, the truck will get a tad taller as a result.
-Wrapping the hood scoop.

That'll be in February, then in April we're deleting the middle/right rear seat, and extending my goose gear platform, and building a storage system in it's place, along with a dual battery back there.

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