cj80cruiser
Senior Member
Ive been reading a few build threads with LC coils installed and also extended rear brake lines. Ive also read a few post stating it wasn't neccessary. Can someone confirm whether the extended lines are needed?
LC coils need extended rear brake lines?
- Thread starter cj80cruiser
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Stockwell45
New member
Not necessary. I've got 9 wraps with stock brake lines.
curtperry
New member
Short answer: It's probably not needed for normal driving with a lift if you are willing to bend some brackets.
Long answer:
It really depends on your rear shocks or limit straps (if applicable)
To know for sure you need to simulate a max-droop situation like being airborne or in a front wheel stand.
Once you have your rear lift shocks installed, slowly jack up your rear end by the frame, letting your rear axle droop. As you go, watch the strain on the brake line and e-brake cable and make adjustments to compensate. Keep going until the shocks top out and start lifting the rear axle. Taking the rear wheels off can help if you have trouble getting height.
You can give the brake line more slack by bending the brackets where it mounts to the frame and the axle. I did this until I didn't want to go any further because it was going to cause the position of the line at normal riding height or under compression to be pretty tweaked. I ended up using an extended brake line so that it would be at comfortable angles at any level of comression or decomression.
You can give the e-brake cable more slack by unbolting the mounting bracket that it travels through near the rear diff and fabbing an extension for it.
This is my experience with LC 8.25 wraps and OEM '97 LC Shocks
There are hundreds of people with lifts on this forum and I'm willing to bet no two lifted rigs are exactly the same. The real right answer, as usual, is whatever works for you.
Long answer:
It really depends on your rear shocks or limit straps (if applicable)
To know for sure you need to simulate a max-droop situation like being airborne or in a front wheel stand.
Once you have your rear lift shocks installed, slowly jack up your rear end by the frame, letting your rear axle droop. As you go, watch the strain on the brake line and e-brake cable and make adjustments to compensate. Keep going until the shocks top out and start lifting the rear axle. Taking the rear wheels off can help if you have trouble getting height.
You can give the brake line more slack by bending the brackets where it mounts to the frame and the axle. I did this until I didn't want to go any further because it was going to cause the position of the line at normal riding height or under compression to be pretty tweaked. I ended up using an extended brake line so that it would be at comfortable angles at any level of comression or decomression.
You can give the e-brake cable more slack by unbolting the mounting bracket that it travels through near the rear diff and fabbing an extension for it.
This is my experience with LC 8.25 wraps and OEM '97 LC Shocks
There are hundreds of people with lifts on this forum and I'm willing to bet no two lifted rigs are exactly the same. The real right answer, as usual, is whatever works for you.
AZTOY
New member
I put on the extension. I disconnect my rear sway bar when off roading, so there is a lot of articulation and full droop potential. The extension for me is better safe than sorry. Would not want to lose brakes out on the trail. You will see arguments for both, have to decide what makes sense to you.
got a pic of that mounting bracket near the rear diff?
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
Ok, thanks guys for the responses. I didn't want to get stuck in the middle of my spring swap and realize I needed new brake lines.
[MENTION=80102]shadow247[/MENTION] when I Google searched before I asked this question I saw a title that described what you are talking about with adding a second stock line.
[MENTION=80102]shadow247[/MENTION] when I Google searched before I asked this question I saw a title that described what you are talking about with adding a second stock line.
curtperry
New member
Just cut a short section of steel strap from the hardware store, doubled it up and rounded the corners. That's the SS Brake line from Wheeler's Offroad in the background.
DizzyDoyle
New member
Anybody have an idea about a 99 4runner that started on p225s? Mine came stock with 225x75x15. I put a 2 in spacer lift into it. Now i got horrible rear sag and i am planning on putting in some OME890s in the rear. what yall think? extend the brake lines?
blcktpgsr
New member
I've been running without the extended brake lines for over 3 years and i'm fine. Recently though, I just made a bracket just like curtperry did^ just for the heck of it. I will eventually get an extended one and like Gerdo said, the rubber lines are getting older and you can't take any chances on an aging brake line. I've already replaced my fronts and it's made a definite improvement for a more effective braking for sure.
bak3rme
Senior Member
blcktpgsr, whats up man. I have no slack in my rear lines, when i flex does that constrict my rear brake lines at all? I'm not sure if the brake lines are pulled on when flexed out. Also can you explain how replacing front lines make braking more effective? Thanks man!
blcktpgsr
New member
How could you have no slack? The only time the rear lines would be in the position of being completely pulled is when you entire rear axle's hung up, otherwise flexing on either side shouldn't cause the brake lines to stretch to it's limits... I have been through different length coils and now with the 861's, no swaybar, no issue but like I said, I upgraded the fronts to Wheelers stainless brake lines and I intend to do the same for the rear just for precautionary measures.
As with any kind of rubber that is subjected to constant heat and pressure, they will eventually degrade in their effectiveness of resisting expansion or swelling due to the said pressure in the hose core, due to age and use ofcourse. With the stainless brake lines, the braking system improves because the brake fluid displacement is directly transferred to the wheels as soon as you apply brakes, no said expansion associated within it's core....if that makes sense.........maybe i'm being biased but when I upgraded, I gained a more positive braking feel, before at sudden brake, the truck would veer to the right it get's scary, now i'm glad i replaced them i feel alot safer and the truck stops more positively especially with the demand of the larger 231mm calipers.lol!
Not here at all endorsing them or anything....Just my take on my personal experience with the stainless brake lines.:roll:
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AlrightGuy
New member
I have a 2002 4Runner with the VSC/TRAC junk so I have two soft lines on the rear axle. Just adding OME 890's just about put them at there limit. I will be ordering new lines and then Ill have to also figure out what to do with the wires that run down with the brake lines for the VSC/TRAC as they will get ripped out if the rear flexes.
Im thinking this is the confusion on whether new rear lines are needed or not. The trucks without this traction control crap only have one soft line in the center of the diff that will usually be fine where the trucks with the traction control have two soft lines and wires on both ends of the axle that are really short.
Im thinking this is the confusion on whether new rear lines are needed or not. The trucks without this traction control crap only have one soft line in the center of the diff that will usually be fine where the trucks with the traction control have two soft lines and wires on both ends of the axle that are really short.
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