Leak + Losing Coolant
- Thread starter Peakester
- Start date
I think the funnel is cool but I read somewhere on the interwebs if you jack up the front after a coolant fill and run the vehicle for a bit, any air bubble in the cooling system will burp itself out. I've never tried it.
Last edited:
A.Wilson013
New member
That would accomplish the same thing, yes. However, if you've got a rear heater you'd have to jack that thing WAY up in order to get the opening for the radiator above the heater hoses. My jack is pretty big, and it doesn't go that tall, I don't think.
Just like how you CAN mow your lawn with scissors, a lot of people enjoy doing it with the ease of a lawn mower.
You mean if an air bubble is trapped in the heater core? I guess that would be a pain. and no, you can't jack it up very high, eventually it becomes like tipping a cup tipped on its side. Whatever liquid is in there would spill out. So yes, the funnel is obviously better.
Babyfood1217
Member
So much of what you're experiencing falls in line with some of what I'm dealing with. I'm eager to follow your diagnosis and if you don't mind, I'm going to link to you thread in mine for some back reference as I deal with tracking down my coolant blackhole.
Good luck!
Chris "babyfood1217" Gerber
Good luck!
Chris "babyfood1217" Gerber
GangsterOfLove
New member
Is this 6 cyl. thing? A rear heater (I don't have one) thing?
When I changed my radiator I filled up the new one and filled the overflow tank to the "cold" level and commenced to driving.
I've never had to add another drop. :noidea:
bentos1
New member
My first truck was a 1992 ex-cab pickup with a 22re. I had zero mechanical experience prior to owning my truck and was clueless on what to do. My roommates told me “Toyota’s are easy to work on” and really sold me on the idea. I loved that pickup but I will outline some of the major (or not so major) work I had performed:
Replaced ADD with manual hubs
New rotors and brake pads
Brake line rusted through and gave out while driving.. installed new brake line
Timing chain failed. A guide bolt slipped out and cut through it. Decided to replace the chain and put in a new head gasket
Hydro-locked engine, a month later both sides of block had a hole in it. My roommate had a spare 22r in the garage. I borrowed an engine stand and hoist and removed the exploded 22re. I took my time and learned how to rebuild the 22r (rings, bearings, thrust washers, gaskets.. the works). I put the 22re head on the 22r block and re-installed in the truck with a new clutch disc. Engine worked great until I sold the truck, clutch exploded a year later. Most likely due to improper installation of the pressure plate. I was tightening the bolts down unevenly.
Replaced the clutch.
Sold the truck a year later when I moved.
Currently, 1997 4Runner – 5speed with locker. Some of the things I have fixed are:
Clock (re-soldered the resistors)
Repaired damaged wiring, solder/replace
Inner/outer tie rods
Upper/lower ball joints
Coolant temp sensor
New clutch kit
I work in an office and am far from a mechanic. I figure if its broken that I might as well try and fix it, cause I will be paying someone else to if I cant. I’ve made mistakes and learned a ton along the way. At this point I am not worried about fixing any part of my truck and will gladly by OEM or high quality parts because I’m saving on the labor.
The whole reason for this is to say, you can fix your truck if you dig in there. I went from being scared of working on a vehicle to wanting to dive in.
Get your paws in there and fix your truck, she needs you
Replaced ADD with manual hubs
New rotors and brake pads
Brake line rusted through and gave out while driving.. installed new brake line
Timing chain failed. A guide bolt slipped out and cut through it. Decided to replace the chain and put in a new head gasket
Hydro-locked engine, a month later both sides of block had a hole in it. My roommate had a spare 22r in the garage. I borrowed an engine stand and hoist and removed the exploded 22re. I took my time and learned how to rebuild the 22r (rings, bearings, thrust washers, gaskets.. the works). I put the 22re head on the 22r block and re-installed in the truck with a new clutch disc. Engine worked great until I sold the truck, clutch exploded a year later. Most likely due to improper installation of the pressure plate. I was tightening the bolts down unevenly.
Replaced the clutch.
Sold the truck a year later when I moved.
Currently, 1997 4Runner – 5speed with locker. Some of the things I have fixed are:
Clock (re-soldered the resistors)
Repaired damaged wiring, solder/replace
Inner/outer tie rods
Upper/lower ball joints
Coolant temp sensor
New clutch kit
I work in an office and am far from a mechanic. I figure if its broken that I might as well try and fix it, cause I will be paying someone else to if I cant. I’ve made mistakes and learned a ton along the way. At this point I am not worried about fixing any part of my truck and will gladly by OEM or high quality parts because I’m saving on the labor.
The whole reason for this is to say, you can fix your truck if you dig in there. I went from being scared of working on a vehicle to wanting to dive in.
Get your paws in there and fix your truck, she needs you
we have a rear heater, yes.
Problem solved.
So the tools [MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION] linked initially got the job done. Turned out to be an unfastened hose clamp? - it was easy to spot the leak. Not at all sure how it came loose. I had a vehicle inspection done recently, but no one should've been messing with heater hose clamps, right? Btw, I'm keeping this pressure test gear and never paying a mechanic for one again. Thanks for the help - and keep handing out the advice to those of us that aren't mechanically inclined! :yo:
So the tools [MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION] linked initially got the job done. Turned out to be an unfastened hose clamp? - it was easy to spot the leak. Not at all sure how it came loose. I had a vehicle inspection done recently, but no one should've been messing with heater hose clamps, right? Btw, I'm keeping this pressure test gear and never paying a mechanic for one again. Thanks for the help - and keep handing out the advice to those of us that aren't mechanically inclined! :yo:
