Led bar wiring issue....

[rd337]

I just installed a roof mount led bar in my 3rd gen 4runner....
I believe I have a SPDT switch, 3 prongs, 2 positions. As well as a spst switch.
Theres a law about having opaque covers over off road lights here but cops are usually more forgiving if the switch can not be accidentally pushed so I chose to go with a 2 position toggle switch so I can put one of those jet fighter trigger covers on, and have the second switch as a main kill switch.


Currently I have it wired so it goes like this : battery to prong A of 3 prong switch, high beam piggy back to prong C of 3 prong switch, Wire from prong B of 3 prong switch goes to prong A of 2 prong switch. Prong B of 2 prong switch goes in to activate relay. Relay grounded, 12v live in to relay and out to light bar.

Everything is working exactly as they should except for one thing..... Whenever the 3 prong switch is on the high beam circuit and the 2 prong switch is in On position, my low beams come on.....

I do have Bi-xenon HID headlights which is also relayed. It's not the HID system because it works perfectly when i unplug the led system from the high beam circuit.

I have disabled DRL already so it's not that.....

 

[UnderFire]

Why tie the LED bar into the high beams at all? Just wire it up as a seperate auxillary light with only a switch to turn it on.

 

[Factor]

+1 with underfire

I've rigged up my LEDs straight to batt with inline fuse close to +terminal.
Rocker type switch where the heated seat switch is supposed to be.

 

[rd337]

I like the flexibility of being able to use my lighting as needing. I hate it when the person behind me is blinding me so I like to turn my lights off when the trail becomes straight enough that my light would blind the person in front, then flick them back on when a turn comes up. I've driven right past deers and other animals without seeing them till the last minute. And I figured it'd be a bit annoying to reach for the cover then the toggle while the truck is bouncing and sliding....
And I live close to a richmond..... aka hong-couver.... Don't want to sound racist.... but I've seen some of the worse drivers there.... There are Facebook pages dedicated to "richmond parking" where brand new range rovers writes off a handful of cars because the driver forgot what the left pedal does.... If I ever have to go there for some un-godly reason, I'd like to have a collapsed sun at my finger tips

 

[UnderFire]

I like the flexibility of being able to use my lighting as needing. I hate it when the person behind me is blinding me so I like to turn my lights off when the trail becomes straight enough that my light would blind the person in front, then flick them back on when a turn comes up. I've driven right past deers and other animals without seeing them till the last minute. And I figured it'd be a bit annoying to reach for the cover then the toggle while the truck is bouncing and sliding....
And I live close to a richmond..... aka hong-couver.... Don't want to sound racist.... but I've seen some of the worse drivers there.... There are Facebook pages dedicated to "richmond parking" where brand new range rovers writes off a handful of cars because the driver forgot what the left pedal does.... If I ever have to go there for some un-godly reason, I'd like to have a collapsed sun at my finger tips

And how is flipping a switch that could be literally 6 inches from the headlight stalk any different than flipping the headlight stalk itself? You're over-complicating the whole system for no real reason.

If you like flexibility of use in your lighting, that would mean you'd want everything on separate switches, not one big on/off switch for every light on your truck.

 

[KidVermicious]

x3. Tying your light bar to your high beams is silly. I know you think you want to turn them both off at once, but once the light bar is blazing your high beams are superfluous anyway, you don't need both. Put the bar on it's own circuit.

 

[1blink]

I understand wanting the bar tired in with high beams on a 3-way switch, I have wished I wired mine that way many times since moving up here. It's easier and faster to reach for the headlight stalk. I end up using my light bar on heavily traveled forest access roads, and making desperate stabs trying to get it turned off before I blind the random oncoming driver.


You are back feeding voltage into the headlight circuit.
You have to use 2 relays, one 5 pin triggered by either the second relay or the switches, and another 4 or 5 pin for the headlight trigger. Look up how to wire in a 3 way switch for reverse lights, you will find the appropriate diagrams. Many of us wire in reverse lights to come on when putting the transmission in reverse, or when flipping a switch on. I think the wiring will work out the same

 

[IBallEngineer]

I just installed a roof mount led bar in my 3rd gen 4runner....
I believe I have a SPDT switch, 3 prongs, 2 positions. As well as a spst switch.
Theres a law about having opaque covers over off road lights here but cops are usually more forgiving if the switch can not be accidentally pushed so I chose to go with a 2 position toggle switch so I can put one of those jet fighter trigger covers on, and have the second switch as a main kill switch.


Currently I have it wired so it goes like this : battery to prong A of 3 prong switch, high beam piggy back to prong C of 3 prong switch, Wire from prong B of 3 prong switch goes to prong A of 2 prong switch. Prong B of 2 prong switch goes in to activate relay. Relay grounded, 12v live in to relay and out to light bar.

Everything is working exactly as they should except for one thing..... Whenever the 3 prong switch is on the high beam circuit and the 2 prong switch is in On position, my low beams come on.....

I do have Bi-xenon HID headlights which is also relayed. It's not the HID system because it works perfectly when i unplug the led system from the high beam circuit.

I have disabled DRL already so it's not that.....

Where did you "piggy back" the high beam circuit? If your high beams are off, you shouldn't have any power at the switch to "backfeed" the SPST switch. The only power available would be the Bat source at the SPDT switch, which would mean your switch is no good.

Of course I don't know where you tapped in to the hi beam circuit, so I'm only guessing here. Need more info...

op2:

 

[criera]

Here is how i like to wire mine with a spdt. If you wanted you could put a spst upstream on either source as a kill switch but that seems redundant, I couldn't afford the space for extra switches but that's me. I have both front and rear light wired like this and it works well for me. Props to 04gunner who originally posted this schematic. I like to use a fused "add a circuit" on the acc side, so you don't have to alter oem wiring. Also if you "think" you know what type of switches you have I would suggest using a multimeter to know for sure what you got.

 

[rd337]

BTW, I have discovered that by unplugging the DRL Resistor beside the battery, I was only removing a portion of the DRL system. When I wired in the light bar, somehow it was triggering on the DRL. I searched up on the newer 3rd gen DRL disable diy and found that my 97 4runner uses the same colour code for the DRL wire. I snipped it and everything's working as it should!