LED Mod - Did I screw the pooch?

[peebee]

For a bit of background, I followed much of a guide posted by [MENTION=20116]darkie3495[/MENTION] here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...ter-hvac-switches-window-*steering-wheel.html

I also took a lot of hints and tips from [MENTION=63211]emelianenkov[/MENTION] and [MENTION=5149]riceandpho[/MENTION] but still managed to screw something up.

Basically everything appears to work right. The backlighting and individual "arrow" LED's light up properly, switch and toggle, etc. But as soon as I shut the car off (or go from the "ON" position to "ACC") the LED's turn off as they're supposed to but the LCD stays on and the rear window defrost LED illuminates. It's hard to describe, so I went ahead and just took some video to show.

Any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions would be very much appreciated.

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/4GZmRZQzYI4?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[peebee]

Pretty sure I figured out what I did. I'll leave this up just in case others run into the same problem though.

Basically when I soldered the "A/C" LED on I had lifted the pad. It looks like I didn't repair it properly.

 

[CookieRoe]

Pretty sure I figured out what I did. I'll leave this up just in case others run into the same problem though.

Basically when I soldered the "A/C" LED on I had lifted the pad. It looks like I didn't repair it properly.

I wanted to comment, but had nothing to add. So, when you installed a new LED for the A/C button, you are saying it wasn't "seated" properly?? (I'm very vague with the "pad"). I'm planning on ripping apart the HVAC unit soon...........

 

[peebee]

Confirmed my suspicion. I pulled the LED, cleaned up my solder hack job, then ran a new line to the correct lead (to fix my mistake of lifting the pad).

To answer CookieRoe's question... I'm certainly not advanced at solder, but electronics are soldered on pads, which are glued to the PCB. If you use too much heat or force when trying to lift the OEM LED's you risk ripping one of the pads off with it. I did this on the A/C LED, but when I went to solder to the copper trace (which is what is connected to the pad) I accidently soldered to the wrong one. When I took a second look it was pretty obvious what I had done (it was 3am lol) so I just cleaned it up and soldered to the correct trace.

Problem solved.

 

[peebee]

BTW, if you're a little hesitant, I would recommend just having [MENTION=63211]emelianenkov[/MENTION] do it for you. His fee is very reasonable. After doing my HVAC's I'll certainly have him do my instrument cluster.

 

[preacher35]

BTW, if you're a little hesitant, I would recommend just having [MENTION=63211]emelianenkov[/MENTION] do it for you. His fee is very reasonable. After doing my HVAC's I'll certainly have him do my instrument cluster.

Smart. It's better to let an experienced pro like [MENTION=63211]emelianenkov[/MENTION] take care of something as important as your gauge cluster. He's done a ton of them and will NOT screw it up. You should also let him do your steering wheel stereo remote switches as well.

 

[peebee]

A little blurry on the first pic, but here is the result.

<iframe class="imgur-album" width="100%" height="550" frameborder="0" src="http://imgur.com/a/NFT5a/embed?background=f2f2f2&text=1a1a1a&link=4e76c9"></iframe>