left drum brake running hot

[T4Rscott]

Hi all,

Here goes; I recently replaced drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, transition cables, hardware and as of today the parking brake cable, someone used the 15" wheel cable previously. The left side is tightening up more than the right and consequently running really warm, not smoking though.

Don't flame me for this, but being on a budget, I used NAPA parts. Now I have had issues with their parts before but never had an issue this frustrating. The last thing I noticed was one of the shoes pad material was bonded off center, and making contact with the backing plate. Can this cause a problem and make that one side run hot?

I spent all day today making sure my parking brake was adjusted according to the Tundrasolutions web page. I know the parking brake is 100% including the bellcranks. I'm tired of messing with brakes. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[nissanh]

You really don't have to adjust rear brakes in any toyota. When you pull the e-brake, it will automatically adjust the rear brake shoes. I've followed this for the past 20+ years and it works. Get all the parts properly assembled and pull the e-brake about 20-30 times.

NAPA parts are still far better than any other auto shop brake parts. I think a picture will be very helpful in solving this issue. I suspect the off bonded shoe material touching the backing plate might be an issue.

Many drivers using automatic transmissions never use the e-brake, hence the rear brake wears out and never gets adjusted.

 

[MandAtaco]

Mine was doing this after I redid the rear brakes. Turned out the parking brake cable was to tight, causing all my cables to constantly have tension on them. I adjusted the cams on the back of both drums per the FSM, then loosened up the cable that runs up to the pull handle. No problems after that.

 

[pluton]

Mine was doing this after I redid the rear brakes. Turned out the parking brake cable was to tight, causing all my cables to constantly have tension on them. I adjusted the cams on the back of both drums per the FSM, then loosened up the cable that runs up to the pull handle. No problems after that.

This similar to what I had to do, after the dealer f*****d up my rear brakes as the result of a rear axle seal job.