Left my 99 running and the coolant reservoir startes boiling

[DeadbeatYota]

Like the title says I had my 99 running for about an hour and a half sitting in a parking lot and the coolant started boiling. I got out to go back to class and could smell the coolant. Checked the temperature gauge and it was all the way at the top. The radiator doesn't appear to be cracked or leaking and after a cooling for a few minutes the boiling stopped. The coolant is a clear, dark red. Not milky like the strawberry milkshake so I thinkiI'mgood there. My question is will it be safe to drive 15 minutes home in three hours?

Update: checked head gaskets after class and they seem to be fine, no bubbling or smoke. Drove home with the AC on and it blew cool like usual. Noticed it wasn't really working when I was in the parking lot but now I see why. Transmission shifted fine. Took the long way to try it on the interstate, no problems there. I guess I got lucky this time. Posting a picture of the temperature gauge, I guess this is normal? Once it gets heated up it's always here.

 

[shootmymime]

Like the title says I had my 99 running for about an hour and a half sitting in a parking lot and the coolant started boiling. I got out to go back to class and could smell the coolant. Checked the temperature gauge and it was all the way at the top. The radiator doesn't appear to be cracked or leaking and after a cooling for a few minutes the boiling stopped. The coolant is a clear, dark red. Not milky like the strawberry milkshake so I thinkiI'mgood there. My question is will it be safe to drive 15 minutes home in three hours?

that means your fan was not working or pulling enough air across the radiator.

if you did get it hot enough to warp a head and or blow a head gasket thats your main problem.

a on the fly way to check if you have a bad head gasket is to pop open the radiator cap (WHILE ITS DECENTLY COOL, IF ITS HOT IS WILL SPRAY AND BURN YOU) and start the car. if bubbles are coming out the top that means air is being pushed from the cyl into the cooling system. or white smoke out the tail pipe.

so given 3 hours to cool the motor just from sitting. you might be able to do that check.

but i think you should be fine driving but just keep an eye on that gauge. if it starts climbing, keep moving and or turn your front and rear heat on full blast to try and use the blower motors to act as radiators to try and cool the system down.

i think you should be fine on your drive. keep and eye on that gauge.

 

[DeadbeatYota]

Thanks man I'll check it when I get out. I'm buying a transmission cooler when I get some money back from school, should I go ahead and get a new radiator too? I'm at 168880 on the original.

 

[shootmymime]

If you live in a warm/ hot climate I would bypass the tranny cooler then connect the lines on the lines on the tranny cooler (inside the radiator)


Then hook up the new external cooler like it's self unit.

That way no need to replace radiator.
If you live in colder part of the year ether leave it or keep the internal in route with new cooler and maybe. Maybe get a new radiator

 

[RedSled]

Thanks man I'll check it when I get out. I'm buying a transmission cooler when I get some money back from school, should I go ahead and get a new radiator too? I'm at 168880 on the original.

I would hold off buying anything for it until you see if your head gasket is good,Then go from there. Just my .02

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks man I'll check it when I get out. I'm buying a transmission cooler when I get some money back from school, should I go ahead and get a new radiator too? I'm at 168880 on the original.

This may help. It's from a BMW board but it applies perfectly to our trucks:

Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be careful, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.

Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.

I agree you can probably get it home fine if the fan clutch is the problem, as long as you don't have to stop much. The fan clutch is supposed to disengage when wind flow is sufficient. Leave your A/C off to increase your odds.

 

[jgue467]

Probably - gotta keep a better eye on temps - don't let it get anywhere near pointing up - might wanna get the ifone or android odbII guage app for a much more accurate reading. Any CEL codes stored?

As shootmymime said, before you leave school lot, check coolant levels in radiator and reservoir. Then have plan B ready as shootmymime said, if it climbs open up the heaters.

Don't assume its the radiator. But do clean the fins to be sure, compressed air and/or water.

Could be several things causing this, poor air flow (clogged fins or bad fan clutch), radiator cap (not holding 16psi), thermostat going out, too much a/c coolant, misfire, ect. Look thru http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...faq-tutorials-documentation-reference-v2.html for test procedures.

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

I wanna know why you left it running for 1-1/2hrs unattended?

 

[DeadbeatYota]

I wanna know why you left it running for 1-1/2hrs unattended?

I have a long break between classes and AC makes it bearable. I was in it the whole time I just didn't think about watching the temp since it isn't too terribly hot for SC yet.