Let's build my 4runner, need opinions on parts!

[Smokie]

Ok, so I got about $8k maybe 10 that I can spend here in the next few days on my 99 5spd 4x4 v6. I want this as a daily driver, yet able to tackle moderate terrain (mud/rocks/hills).

As far as mods that have been done, she's pretty much stock save for 231mm tundra brakes and an audio system.

Already ordered a SS 1.2 rebuildable 2.0 lift, and would like to run a set of 285/75r16's. also really liking the CBI front hybrid bumper/warn8k.

What else am I going to buy? I'm thinking roof rack (low profile if possible), gears and lockers front and rear, sliders, supercharger?

Help me spend some money! :hungry:

ETA.. pic as she sits now.

 

[4eigner]

Long Travel

 

[Smokie]

Long Travel

Saving purchasing a long travel for my 98, already ordered the lift for this one. :wink2:

 

[96 ToyRunner]

Im building mine up as a daily driver / weekend warrior rig and im doing lift sliders and a winch so that what Im going to do .....I like the most out of mine and still keep light weight and small and able to do anything I want to...so pretty much sliders should be on your list lol

 

[shootmymime]

Ok, so I got about $8k maybe 10 that I can spend here in the next few days on my 99 5spd 4x4 v6. I want this as a daily driver, yet able to tackle moderate terrain (mud/rocks/hills).

As far as mods that have been done, she's pretty much stock save for 231mm tundra brakes and an audio system.

Already ordered a SS 1.2 rebuildable 2.0 lift, and would like to run a set of 285/75r16's. also really liking the CBI front hybrid bumper/warn8k.

What else am I going to buy? I'm thinking roof rack (low profile if possible), gears and lockers front and rear, sliders, supercharger?

Help me spend some money! :hungry:

What do you want to use the truck for?

Id say king or icon suspension, (i know you picked up a SS kit already) i feel the 2.5 added dampening is quite noticeable.

be sure you pick up some 650 or 700 lb coils if your going to add a front bumper or winch.


I just did a Supercharger and 7th injector and absolutely make the truck feel like its got get up and go now.

so with the things you have talked about i think that can easily be around the 5-6K range (bumpers, winch, tires, suspension skids and super charger)
That will completely transform your truck from what you have now. What about sound deadener and window tint? make a more comfortable ride?

 

[Smokie]

What do you want to use the truck for?

Id say king or icon suspension, (i know you picked up a SS kit already) i feel the 2.5 added dampening is quite noticeable.

be sure you pick up some 650 or 700 lb coils if your going to add a front bumper or winch.


I just did a Supercharger and 7th injector and absolutely make the truck feel like its got get up and go now.

so with the things you have talked about i think that can easily be around the 5-6K range (bumpers, winch, tires, suspension skids and super charger)
That will completely transform your truck from what you have now. What about sound deadener and window tint? make a more comfortable ride?

Honestly, this one is going to be my daily driver/weekend hunting/fishing/camping vehicle. I want this one to be dependable, somewhat comfortable ride, and look good. I'm shooting for keeping the mpg over 15 if possible with highway driving.

I'm trying to avoid the supercharger if possible to gear it correctly. But, if it is needed for keeping it from feeling like I'm driving a dump truck, then I'll get one.

 

[Chuckles89]

^The dump truck thing killed me. :laugh:

 

[H20Camper]

Just my personal opinion but I think the ARB plate front bumper looks a lot better than CBI Hybrid for a daily driver.

I would however also add a CBI plate rear bumper with a Jerry can holder and tire carrier to round out the front to back off road look.

If you want to steer clear of needing a supercharger and gear swap I think you'd be far better served with 265-75-16s. There 32" tall and 10.5 wide. A 2 1/2 lift would shine nicely.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

H20Camper

 

[Unner]

Assuming all maintenance is up to date and I had that much to spend immediately on my truck I would have: CBI, Shrockworks, or addicted offroad front bumper and lights to fill gaps, more lights for other places, projector retrofit possibly, TRD wheels and Duratracs or KO2's in 265/75/16, 2" lift or there about, Shrockworks sliders, a full length roof rack, possibly a rear bumper, nice sound system, aftermarket skids(savage come to mind), and then a Supercharger just maybe if it is too slow with all the added weight.

Also, a bugshield to protect you're pretty sport hood, and some window visors so you can have the windows cracked in the rain or in the heat and not worry about water or thieves getting in.

If I could do all that I would have my dream 3rd Gen. Mine will get there one day hopefully, but it will be a slow process for me...

 

[habanero]

Maintenance... Check ALL the rubber bits, set aside some dough for new CV boots, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

Love my SS 1.2 on my 96 dd. Sliders, cb w/weather, skids. The rear locker is nice, would wait on front unless you're pretty sure up front you need it. Extend the RR diff breather, on board air, rear lighting to both augment reverse lights and lighting when needed, front lights, consider sway bar links, cargo storage, kill switches, the lowest rolling resistance tires that fit the other requirements for both on and off road, roof top tent, awning, how are you planning on carrying a 33" spare...
We could do this all day....especially with someone elses dough. If you're considering a small body lift keep in mind when getting bumpers. You've already got 4.30 gearing, right?

(RTT won't do your mileage any favors...or cargo space...okay, forget that one)

 

[Smokie]

Just my personal opinion but I think the ARB plate front bumper looks a lot better than CBI Hybrid for a daily driver.

I would however also add a CBI plate rear bumper with a Jerry can holder and tire carrier to round out the front to back off road look.

If you want to steer clear of needing a supercharger and gear swap I think you'd be far better served with 265-75-16s. There 32" tall and 10.5 wide. A 2 1/2 lift would shine nicely.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

H20Camper

That CBI rear plate bumper is looking like the one I'll go with. I like the can and tire carriers as well being in the back, Should be better with the wind drag versus mounting the tire on the roof rack.

 

[Smokie]

Assuming all maintenance is up to date and I had that much to spend immediately on my truck I would have: CBI, Shrockworks, or addicted offroad front bumper and lights to fill gaps, more lights for other places, projector retrofit possibly, TRD wheels and Duratracs or KO2's in 265/75/16, 2" lift or there about, Shrockworks sliders, a full length roof rack, possibly a rear bumper, nice sound system, aftermarket skids(savage come to mind), and then a Supercharger just maybe if it is too slow with all the added weight.

Also, a bugshield to protect you're pretty sport hood, and some window visors so you can have the windows cracked in the rain or in the heat and not worry about water or thieves getting in.

If I could do all that I would have my dream 3rd Gen. Mine will get there one day hopefully, but it will be a slow process for me...

Maintenance is definitely up to date, this truck was well cared for by the previous owner. As mentioned earlier, Just upgraded the front brakes, and has new timing belt, brake master, clutch master, clutch, plugs, cats, maf, valve cover gaskets, filters, belts. No leaks that I can find, but I will be swapping out the bjs, tie rods, control arm bushings, sway bar links/bushings for new parts when I install the new suspension.

You mentioned lights, I think I'm going to go with the round led pods in the bumper along with a 20" bar under the grill guard, ditch lights at the a pillar base, and more up top depending on which rack I get. I like being able to see where I'm going. :lookout:

As far as the tires, I am looking really hard at the mastercraft Courser Mxt's. They are lighter than the nittos by 10lbs each, and nearly the same weight as the KO's. I've talked to several people that have them on everything from land cruisers to f150s, and they say they wear and perform excellent. Size wise, I would like to go with the 285/70 as it is still less than 33".

Sound system is covered, installed a JVC head unit, JL 700/5v2, kicker components front, Fosgate rear, and JL 10" ported sub.

I'll go check the shrockworks sliders you mentioned as well.

 

[Smokie]

Maintenance... Check ALL the rubber bits, set aside some dough for new CV boots, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

Love my SS 1.2 on my 96 dd. Sliders, cb w/weather, skids. The rear locker is nice, would wait on front unless you're pretty sure up front you need it. Extend the RR diff breather, on board air, rear lighting to both augment reverse lights and lighting when needed, front lights, consider sway bar links, cargo storage, kill switches, the lowest rolling resistance tires that fit the other requirements for both on and off road, roof top tent, awning, how are you planning on carrying a 33" spare...
We could do this all day....especially with someone elses dough. If you're considering a small body lift keep in mind when getting bumpers. You've already got 4.30 gearing, right?

(RTT won't do your mileage any favors...or cargo space...okay, forget that one)

Ok, this is where I need some direction. Checking the vin it says I have 4:10s, so I'll definitely need to change out front and rear. On a 285/70r16, what would be the ideal gear ratio for a dd, but yet leave me with a respectable gearing for tackling rocks/inclines? I need to be able to still travel at 80 on the highway, but I dont want to have to use a 100 shot of nitrous to be able to take off from a dead stop either with all the added weight. Do I need gears as well as a supercharger? If I do the supercharger, I'll have to change the ECU as well as the cats and 02 sensors as this vehicle is set up for cali emissions.

I'll probably go ahead and get a locker for the front as well, I'd like to only take the front diff out once if I can help it. When I do receive the chunks and lockers, I'm going to yank front and rear and drop it off to be installed. It's just a part I'd rather leave to a professional to install.


Rear back up lighting is a go, I'll put that on the list. 33" spare is going on the rear bumper carrier, best place I can see it fitting. Recommendation for onboard air? I can see where this would come in handy.

Thanks!

 

[Unner]

Maintenance is definitely up to date, this truck was well cared for by the previous owner. As mentioned earlier, Just upgraded the front brakes, and has new timing belt, brake master, clutch master, clutch, plugs, cats, maf, valve cover gaskets, filters, belts. No leaks that I can find, but I will be swapping out the bjs, tie rods, control arm bushings, sway bar links/bushings for new parts when I install the new suspension.

You mentioned lights, I think I'm going to go with the round led pods in the bumper along with a 20" bar under the grill guard, ditch lights at the a pillar base, and more up top depending on which rack I get. I like being able to see where I'm going. :lookout:

As far as the tires, I am looking really hard at the mastercraft Courser Mxt's. They are lighter than the nittos by 10lbs each, and nearly the same weight as the KO's. I've talked to several people that have them on everything from land cruisers to f150s, and they say they wear and perform excellent. Size wise, I would like to go with the 285/70 as it is still less than 33".

Sound system is covered, installed a JVC head unit, JL 700/5v2, kicker components front, Fosgate rear, and JL 10" ported sub.

I'll go check the shrockworks sliders you mentioned as well.

Sounds like you are good to go on maintenance then, save for the occasional repair, but that's normal with older trucks. I love being able to see where I'm going too, so all those lights sound great. I think you can actually fit a 33" tire in the stock location, but don't take my word for it. I thought I've seen a few members here do that.

I'm probably gonna go with the shrockworks sliders myself just because they seem to be the ony bolt on option and I can't find anyone in my area that I trust to weld onto my truck. Not to mention the welding would cost at least $150 whereas I can install the bolt on ones myself. If you can weld or know someone you can trust I would look at the BAMF sliders. I think they're the best looking ones available for these trucks.

 

[Smokie]

Sounds like you are good to go on maintenance then, save for the occasional repair, but that's normal with older trucks. I love being able to see where I'm going too, so all those lights sound great. I think you can actually fit a 33" tire in the stock location, but don't take my word for it. I thought I've seen a few members here do that.

I'm probably gonna go with the shrockworks sliders myself just because they seem to be the ony bolt on option and I can't find anyone in my area that I trust to weld onto my truck. Not to mention the welding would cost at least $150 whereas I can install the bolt on ones myself. If you can weld or know someone you can trust I would look at the BAMF sliders. I think they're the best looking ones available for these trucks.

I just saw that the shrockworks were bolt on, I'd like to have these welded. Where I work we do a ton of welding, so that part is going to be free. Are the BAMF sliders proven to be 100% functional? Looks are a plus, but stuff that works best is the direction I'm going.

 

[Smokie]

I just saw that the shrockworks were bolt on, I'd like to have these welded. Where I work we do a ton of welding, so that part is going to be free. Are the BAMF sliders proven to be 100% functional? Looks are a plus, but stuff that works best is the direction I'm going.

ETA..ouch, 12 weeks to fab up a set? Wow, sounds like someone needs to hire another fitter and welder!:wow: Looking to get all my parts received in 3-4 weeks, offshore season is coming in May.

 

[habanero]

Ok, this is where I need some direction. Checking the vin it says I have 4:10s, so I'll definitely need to change out front and rear. On a 285/70r16, what would be the ideal gear ratio for a dd, but yet leave me with a respectable gearing for tackling rocks/inclines? I need to be able to still travel at 80 on the highway, but I dont want to have to use a 100 shot of nitrous to be able to take off from a dead stop either with all the added weight. Do I need gears as well as a supercharger? If I do the supercharger, I'll have to change the ECU as well as the cats and 02 sensors as this vehicle is set up for cali emissions.

I'll probably go ahead and get a locker for the front as well, I'd like to only take the front diff out once if I can help it. When I do receive the chunks and lockers, I'm going to yank front and rear and drop it off to be installed. It's just a part I'd rather leave to a professional to install.


Rear back up lighting is a go, I'll put that on the list. 33" spare is going on the rear bumper carrier, best place I can see it fitting. Recommendation for onboard air? I can see where this would come in handy.

Thanks!

I regeared to 430s from 410 with 33s because I got a 430 axle w/locker and simply matched up front. That's working better and my speedo is now only about 4% over when checked against GPS. The 96 is heavier and decidedly less spry than the mostly stock 99 with 430s on 32s. I am no gear guru so will leave that for someone else to answer as well as the supercharger question.
You could wait and decide on the supercharger after driving the loaded down truck for a few months. Don't blame you for wanting to leave the gears to a professional or for only wanting to deal with the front diff one time- that thing is a bugger to deal with! Also agree with you on watching rolling weight while still considering the tire's abilities.

It's possible with your Highlander package that you could be pre-wired for an e-locker. For the front would you go ARB or ARB front and rear or? Be prepared for more cv breakage with a front locker depending on how you drive. They are annoying, but not hard to change. ARB=air- you could facilitate your air system for OBA, yes?
As far as separate OBA Santa brought me a Viair, before that I was considering the Puma for its price and reviews on forums. There are other systems too. I'm putting it in because I'd like to air down more than I've been able to and be able to fluff the tires back up before I hit the road again. I know many people just drive to the nearest gas station but I'd rather not- especially as some of those stations can be pretty far off. It can be used for other things, but this is the main one.

Agree with the spare on a carrier, am doing the research on that one myself. I cannot physically put a spare in the roof rack (and need the room up there) and it will not fit underneath either.

In my build thread (and prolly countless other build threads) is how I wired the switch for aux lighting into the reverse lights.

Forgot to mention. Do you have a way to lift the truck when all is said and done? The stock jack only goes so high...

 

[habanero]

I think you can actually fit a 33" tire in the stock location, but don't take my word for it

I've seen that too, but could not get mine in aired up, aired down, called various names, etc, and that's just a worn Michelin A/T on 16x8s.

 

[paddlenbike]

I pretty much always agree with habanero's posts, so I second what she says.

What does a re-gear cost these days--$900-$1,000? Personally, I would put that money towards the supercharger as you'll probably get the same or better mileage on the highway (if you drive on the highway) and you'll have far more power. Oh, and it's way fun to drive.

Personally, I wouldn't add more than you need because mods often have downsides. I like my 4Runner to be trail-worthy but I like being able to drive it comfortably on a long road trip too. So my mods are minimal--sliders, SS lift, 275/70R17s, supercharger...still on the factory bumpers because I don't want or need the added weight.

Have fun, mod smart.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Ok, this is where I need some direction. Checking the vin it says I have 4:10s, so I'll definitely need to change out front and rear. On a 285/70r16, what would be the ideal gear ratio for a dd, but yet leave me with a respectable gearing for tackling rocks/inclines? I need to be able to still travel at 80 on the highway, but I dont want to have to use a 100 shot of nitrous to be able to take off from a dead stop either with all the added weight. Do I need gears as well as a supercharger? If I do the supercharger, I'll have to change the ECU as well as the cats and 02 sensors as this vehicle is set up for cali emissions.

Rear back up lighting is a go, I'll put that on the list. 33" spare is going on the rear bumper carrier, best place I can see it fitting.

Thanks!

You'll have a fair amount of power loss with a lift, larger tires and extra weight. Although don't trust your speedometer, it will be off by about 10% at that point. Regearing will help, but you'll lose MPG's since you'll be running at higher RPM's while cruising on the highway.

A supercharger is just bolt-on, I'm not sure where you got the ECU & O2 swap idea from. It will work with any 4Runner and any stock sensor/ECU, although it does tend to play nicer with 99+ since they tweaked a few things from the first years of production.

A used one can be had around $2000, brand new from $2800. I've had one on my rig for almost all of it's 194k miles and no valve or engine wear that I've seen yet. Of course, don't just drive it around like you stole it every day or you might develop problems!

I also had a thought on rear/backup lighting, I just ordered these LED backup lights that put out over 800 lumens (a head light puts out 1500 or so on average). I'm hoping this will really beef up my lighting in the rear without having to spend too much or deal with rewiring my lights. Might be of interest.

2pcs CREE XB D High Power LED Bulb T10 921 Super Bright Reserve Backup Lights | eBay