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sweet88gt

sweet88gt

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So for a guy who doesn't have all of his tools (due to a move and temp housing situation) where can I find info on coil pack values and such ? Is there a thread I have missed maybe in a search ?

I had out of the blue a stalling issue. Changed fuel filter and pcv valve. Cleaned MAF and did some visual checking. Seafoam in fuel tank. Issue had not returned until today.

Today breaking up at 35mph and flashing check engine light just like before. Pull over when it died. Try to restart with no luck.
Push gas pedal to floor and it would start.

Limped it home where it ran fine the last few miles home.

No codes with my cheap tester.

Back story is the previous owner towards the end of ownership didn't do much. So most of the items are unknown. I did change the spark plugs to OEM after a check engine light came on a week after ownership. Found 5 OE style plugs and 1 odd unit as in not correct for application.

Things that need to be addressed I am guessing are plug wires coils and a test somehow to check fuel pump.
Any other things I might be missing?
 
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Flashing cel light is mostly engine misfire. They run rough when a cylinder or 2 is not firing properly.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
brillo_76 said:
Flashing cel light is mostly engine misfire. They run rough when a cylinder or 2 is not firing properly.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

First thought was change coil pack and wires I just don't want to throw money at it and hope.
 
With engine misfire I should be getting a code is my only hold back on ignition.

I will check those values once they cool off. Thanks for the link
 
sweet88gt said:
With engine misfire I should be getting a code is my only hold back on ignition.

I will check those values once they cool off. Thanks for the link
Click to expand...

My ran a day with a pending codes before it kicked on the CEL light.

If nothing else you can rule out those components as the cause
 
brillo_76 said:
My ran a day with a pending codes before it kicked on the CEL light.

If nothing else you can rule out those components as the cause
Click to expand...

2 of the 3 coil have arcing and corrosion on the secondary and the wires for both show the same issues.
Thats where I will start

My meter lead doesn't reach into the boot to get a reading there.
Reading across plug is within range all 3 coils.
 
sweet88gt said:
2 of the 3 coil have arcing and corrosion on the secondary and the wires for both show the same issues.
Thats where I will start

My meter lead doesn't reach into the boot to get a reading there.
Reading across plug is within range all 3 coils.
Click to expand...

The boots come off..:-)

Arching and corrosion never good. Great place to start. :lookout:
 
Coils check out good. Cleaned them up and reinstalled.

Going to try to find new boots and get wires for sure and see what that does.

Seems to me the wires from the secondary to the other side of the engine are not a very positive fit. Doesn't have a positive feel of engagement.

Wait for parts and see.
 
sweet88gt said:
Coils check out good. Cleaned them up and reinstalled.

Going to try to find new boots and get wires for sure and see what that does.

Seems to me the wires from the secondary to the other side of the engine are not a very positive fit. Doesn't have a positive feel of engagement.

Wait for parts and see.
Click to expand...

The part numbers and links to amazon boots are listed on the coil thread. :-)
 
sweet88gt said:
Coils check out good. Cleaned them up and reinstalled.

Going to try to find new boots and get wires for sure and see what that does.

Seems to me the wires from the secondary to the other side of the engine are not a very positive fit. Doesn't have a positive feel of engagement.

Wait for parts and see.
Click to expand...

You have an injector issue. Pop them out, take them to get cleaned and flowtested. Your check engine light flashing is what gave it away to me. I used to have the exact same issue. To test it, when the vehicle is stalling out, disconnect the battery and let the power drain from the system by attempting to turn the key. Reconnect the battery, vehicle will drive like its brand new, untill the CPU collects enough data to function properly, at which case, it will start acting up because the injector is shooting too much, or not enough, fuel through the system. This makes the check engine light flash because your rear O2 sensor is basically telling the computer "houston we've got a problem". Then the computer tries to compensate and that is when the vehicle stalls because it simply cant.
 
VernySanders said:
You have an injector issue. Pop them out, take them to get cleaned and flowtested. Your check engine light flashing is what gave it away to me. I used to have the exact same issue. To test it, when the vehicle is stalling out, disconnect the battery and let the power drain from the system by attempting to turn the key. Reconnect the battery, vehicle will drive like its brand new, untill the CPU collects enough data to function properly, at which case, it will start acting up because the injector is shooting too much, or not enough, fuel through the system. This makes the check engine light flash because your rear O2 sensor is basically telling the computer "houston we've got a problem". Then the computer tries to compensate and that is when the vehicle stalls because it simply cant.
Click to expand...

I don't doubt anything to be wrong at this point.
I have a new set of plug wires and boots for the coils on there way. Those needed attention regardless.
I will then focus my attention to the fuel side.
With the unknown maintenance some items need to be changed just because they are over do.
 
sweet88gt said:
I don't doubt anything to be wrong at this point.
I have a new set of plug wires and boots for the coils on there way. Those needed attention regardless.
I will then focus my attention to the fuel side.
With the unknown maintenance some items need to be changed just because they are over do.
Click to expand...

if you want to pull a set from the junkyard its worth it in my opinion. Its 80 - 100 dollars to get them cleaned and flow tested. Usually the shop that does it will give you information on a sheet about the performance gained through the cleaning as well, quite interesting and its about a 45 minute to an hour job to swap out injectors. You can get them for about as cheap as you want at a junkyard like most people. I paid for mine though lol.
 
Nobody believes in just running good Injector cleaner through their fuel systems a few times a year. Granted the OP is most likely correct and his are fine. I just dont see the sence in pulling injectors that are working.

Then you go get a set out of a junkyard and send them somewhere to be cleaned.

Those really can be cleaned yourself and some form users show how it can be done.


Oh well to each ones own. Whatever works for the users. :)

I just run some good fuel injector cleaner through a fuel times a year and I haven't had the need to change an injector yet in 30 years. I am not this lucky so it must actually keep them clean. :)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
I first believed it was a fuel pump but I have since figured it either worked or didn't.
I haven't ruled anything out.
 
Limited tools is whats holding me back on some of these projects. Looks like the fuel pressure test could be a bit fun.
 
So Im going to bring this back as I have been on and off looking into the issue.

So yesterday I wanted to fix the leaking valve covers. I changed them and all associated items. Checked hoes and such to just give it a once over.

Took it to get gas (on 1/4 tank). Put Seafoam in gas and drove home.

idling in driveway looking for my flashlight to check for any anomalies. It dies with no warning.

I got it started runs ok

But here is the new issue. My code scanner will not read codes now just says error.

Starting back a square one.

Spark plugs few months old. Coil pack checked via ohm. New spark plug wires. Cleaned MAF. New pcv valve. Cleaned throttle body carefully. Newer fuel filter. Seafoam in engine.
 
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