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LittleCaesar said:
Have you cleaned the IAC?

Grab a long screwdriver or a piece of vacuum hose to pinpoint the location of the noise.
Click to expand...

I have not cleaned the IAC

That noise only pops up sometimes. Kind of sounded like it was coming from under or behind the intake. Maybe injector?
 
Strange noise indeed.
Could it the starter solenoid making that noise? But then again the ignition needs to be in start unless you have a short.
 
My bet is on your TPS/IAC.

Look at my torque spec/service information thread for values.


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Yes, check you iac. I had a dirty iac that resulted in stalling in idle. I removed it and cleaned it and my stalling in idle went away but, the ecu never threw a code during the stalling event. I would ohm out the tps and iac to make sure those are in spec.
 
HiLife said:
Yes, check you iac. I had a dirty iac that resulted in stalling in idle. I removed it and cleaned it and my stalling in idle went away but, the ecu never threw a code during the stalling event. I would ohm out the tps and iac to make sure those are in spec.
Click to expand...

If Im checking the IAC correctly its not within the spec Doc2012 has listed. Ill do the TPS next

Im unsure of the pinout. Actually which pins are which.
 
sweet88gt said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAPBAlHcTDk&feature=youtu.be

So I took out the fuse for OBD2 checked it and reinstalled. It gave me an error once more but then worked. I noticed while it was communicating I heard a strange noise. The video above explains the noise.

This is the same style noise I have heard once it dies and I pop the hood.
Click to expand...


The video says the engine is running. It could be an exhaust leak at one of the crossover flanges.

The second video could be a bad TPS because of how it only does it when you blip the throttle. The TPS sensor sets up the entire spark and fuel mapping. If it’s bad the ECU is getting bogus load demand info and has to rely on the O2 sensor to correct. A bad TPS can cause stalling too. I’ve done quick IAC cleaning by removing the lower idle bypass air tube and spraying in the hole until clean chunk free TB cleaner is visible coming out the air port in the throttle body throat.

Get a scanner that reads live data. I have a hand held Innova and a Mac Mentor. My Innova is my main go to scanner.

Dash Command is on my iPhone and torque pro is on my cheep tablet.


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IIRC the center is positive and the left and right pins are what opens and closes the iac valve. As to what left and right pin does what I don't remember.
It's easy to screw up the iac if your cleaning with the throttle body mounted, be careful.

Edit* The center pin is the positive pin.
 
Last edited:
19963.4lsr5 said:
The video says the engine is running. It could be an exhaust leak at one of the crossover flanges.

The second video could be a bad TPS because of how it only does it when you blip the throttle. The TPS sensor sets up the entire spark and fuel mapping. If it’s bad the ECU is getting bogus load demand info and has to rely on the O2 sensor to correct. A bad TPS can cause stalling too. I’ve done quick IAC cleaning by removing the lower idle bypass air tube and spraying in the hole until clean chunk free TB cleaner is visible coming out the air port in the throttle body throat.

Get a scanner that reads live data. I have a hand held Innova and a Mac Mentor. My Innova is my main go to scanner.

Dash Command is on my iPhone and torque pro is on my cheep tablet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have the Innova 3020 which had been working good until the error messages. Then the clicking noises when I was trying to retrieve codes.
 
HiLife said:
IIRC the center is ground and the left and right pins are what opens and closes the iac valve. As to what left and right pin does what I don't remember.
It's easy to screw up the iac if your cleaning with the throttle body mounted, be careful.
Click to expand...

Going outside now to check it out
I will unmount the throttle body if I think that is an issue
 
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