19963.4lsr5
New member
Don’t be disappointed if it stalls a few times in the beginning of your drive.
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Lets talk tests
- Thread starter sweet88gt
- Start date
Don’t be disappointed if it stalls a few times in the beginning of your drive.
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sweet88gt
New member
So this noise has been found to the be the IAC clicking like crazy. Took long 3/8 extension and once it stalled figured that out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NcnWZQuhHs&feature=youtu.be
sweet88gt
New member
So if were going to throw parts at the issue and the IAC and TPS need to be replaced where is the best place to order these items from?
That IAC from Toyota is a pricy part. The TPS not too bad.
I want to be done with this issue and move on to other things.
Anyone got an in for cheap factory parts?
That IAC from Toyota is a pricy part. The TPS not too bad.
I want to be done with this issue and move on to other things.
Anyone got an in for cheap factory parts?
19963.4lsr5
New member
Can you go junking and find a used complete throttle body? Craig’s list, eBay, FaceBook market place......
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sweet88gt
New member
I have but the units at the yard thats still open is picked over and complete junk.
I would spring the $200 for the IAC if I knew it would fix the problem for sure. I would even get the TPS just because.
Looks like Im gonna have to bite the bullet on this one I suppose.
19963.4lsr5
New member
A few members have used the aftermarket IAC with luck.
If you can get a Borg Warner or Napa IAC I would try it over the factory one.
It be nice to stumble upon a complete Throttle Body from a part out.
The one member here that lives in Florida got me rust free power steering lines. Someone here may be able to do the same for you.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
Reading the outside two pins
.6k ohm at idle and 3.1k ohm at WOT
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.6k ohm at idle and 3.1k ohm at WOT
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sweet88gt
New member
.51 ohm at idle and 2.88 ohm at WOT for the one on the truck
19963.4lsr5
New member
That is K ohms, correct?
I have two spare throttle body’s. I should check that one also.
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sweet88gt
New member
Yes
I ordered a new IAC and TPS. Shipping time is gonna be awhile so Ill wait to update. Im done messing around with it.
19963.4lsr5
New member
My other spare TPS is .63k ohm to 2.81k ohm.
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sweet88gt
New member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNRHFPZiCEk&feature=youtu.be
After Toyota IAC and TPS
Start up after parts went very smooth. 30 min run time with no issues. Let sit for 30 min. Restart and within 10 min a stall.
The truck hard start is due to the stall after effects. The truck has been a bit harder to start as of late.
Video is during the after stall restart. The noise Im hearing the loud clicking only happens when the truck is about to stall or after the stall has happened.
Im thinking as someone earlier mentioned that fuel injector ?? As it still posts no codes.
I will now look into a bluetooth app for my iPhone to look monitor fuel pressure and such.
The saga continues.
After Toyota IAC and TPS
Start up after parts went very smooth. 30 min run time with no issues. Let sit for 30 min. Restart and within 10 min a stall.
The truck hard start is due to the stall after effects. The truck has been a bit harder to start as of late.
Video is during the after stall restart. The noise Im hearing the loud clicking only happens when the truck is about to stall or after the stall has happened.
Im thinking as someone earlier mentioned that fuel injector ?? As it still posts no codes.
I will now look into a bluetooth app for my iPhone to look monitor fuel pressure and such.
The saga continues.
LittleCaesar
New member
That stinks. It sounds like a sticking solenoid to me, but where, and which one, I couldn’t say. Almost like a starter not disengaging.
How is the voltage?
Ever adjusted the valves?
How is the voltage?
Ever adjusted the valves?
sweet88gt
New member
Never adjusted valves. This thing ran great until one day poof. Since then can't get her dialed in.
Battery good.
19963.4lsr5
New member
With your milage I’d do a compression test.
Also think about injectors.
When a crank sensor starts going bad due to heat it will doo the random stall and take a little while to restart. Same with the ICM.
If it was mine I’d first do a compression test and rebuild or replace the injectors. I rebuilt my spare set of injectors when I rebuild the engine.
If your compression test shows issues a leak down is next to figure out if it’s top end or bottom end.
If all is well with compression I’d really think about injectors. Mainly because it’s a hard start after a stall which may be a flood condition.
Fuel pressure will not be part of live data. Looking at MAF and the LTFT and the O2 leading up to the stall would help. And verify it’s running in Closed Loop before the stall.
Do you have any readiness monitors not set?
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Also think about injectors.
When a crank sensor starts going bad due to heat it will doo the random stall and take a little while to restart. Same with the ICM.
If it was mine I’d first do a compression test and rebuild or replace the injectors. I rebuilt my spare set of injectors when I rebuild the engine.
If your compression test shows issues a leak down is next to figure out if it’s top end or bottom end.
If all is well with compression I’d really think about injectors. Mainly because it’s a hard start after a stall which may be a flood condition.
Fuel pressure will not be part of live data. Looking at MAF and the LTFT and the O2 leading up to the stall would help. And verify it’s running in Closed Loop before the stall.
Do you have any readiness monitors not set?
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Last edited:
sweet88gt
New member
Im not sure what readiness monitors are ?
I got a set of injectors from the yard sitting in my tool box on the cheap.
I was hoping this thing would not turn into a disaster. Damn 90s cars.
Having some idle issues myself and following your thread.
Not too much to offer, but I have cleaned out fuel injectors before. I ran a tube to the fuel injector, with injector cleaner in the tube. We used an air compressor to pressurize the tube. Then we ran some wires to the injector and used a 9-volt battery and a switch to keep clicking the injector. A lot of clicking but eventually the injector went from completely stuck to spraying.
I hope that helps, best of luck.
Not too much to offer, but I have cleaned out fuel injectors before. I ran a tube to the fuel injector, with injector cleaner in the tube. We used an air compressor to pressurize the tube. Then we ran some wires to the injector and used a 9-volt battery and a switch to keep clicking the injector. A lot of clicking but eventually the injector went from completely stuck to spraying.
I hope that helps, best of luck.
sweet88gt
New member
update:
So I will keep coming back to this thread until I have gotten it figured out.
Today got one of those wifi obd tools to check w my phone.
Here is what it came up with today.
Stored codes
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder misfire
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire
Pending codes are the same as stored listed.
So now the hunt is back on.
I was testing out the scan tool and once again it stalls from an idle.
Now the check engine light is staying on constantly. So maybe we can narrow this down.
So I will keep coming back to this thread until I have gotten it figured out.
Today got one of those wifi obd tools to check w my phone.
Here is what it came up with today.
Stored codes
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder misfire
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire
Pending codes are the same as stored listed.
So now the hunt is back on.
I was testing out the scan tool and once again it stalls from an idle.
Now the check engine light is staying on constantly. So maybe we can narrow this down.
brillo_76
Elite Member
New good wires on it?
New plugs in it?
If the above are good I would use my spark plug info thread and check the coils corresponding to your cylinders 1,2 and 6
As you either have an ignition issue or a fuel injector issue by the looks of your codes with 3 cylinders.
Also possible engine ground issues causing the cylinders or injectors to misfire as well.
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