Lets talk tests

sweet88gt said:
Agreed as the meter I would trust is no longer working and these are cheap units.

But...I need to rule out items concerning my issue.
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I bough a Fluke 77 at a swap meet for 5 dollars because the batteries were dead and the kid didn’t know what it was other than a meter.


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This may help

Primary spec.
23d5361e5eeb1ddf5ffa0e473c3a7f06.jpg



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Last edited:
All all the error codes gone? As your rig will still stall on occasion. Also what type of meter are you using? If its a china special I can see the the tolerances being off. As its very slight. I would be curious what an new coil resistance values are?

When I checked mine with my Fluke meter. All three are within spec on both sides. I just had a spark plug wire going bad. All three of my coils are OEM from Factory with 264K miles on them.
 
brillo_76 said:
All all the error codes gone? As your rig will still stall on occasion. Also what type of meter are you using? If its a china special I can see the the tolerances being off. As its very slight. I would be curious what an new coil resistance values are?

When I checked mine with my Fluke meter. All three are within spec on both sides. I just had a spark plug wire going bad. All three of my coils are OEM from Factory with 264K miles on them.
Click to expand...

No error codes as of now. They haven't come back since new plugs.

197900 Miles

The Fluke meter I use is a cheap unit and doesn't get down that far. I used 2 different types of small meters but both are just back up units.

Once the new coils come Ill check them out.
 
sweet88gt said:
No error codes as of now. They haven't come back since new plugs.

197900 Miles

The Fluke meter I use is a cheap unit and doesn't get down that far. I used 2 different types of small meters but both are just back up units.

Once the new coils come Ill check them out.
Click to expand...

Fluke is mostly fairly accurate. Glad the errors are gone. So you are getting closer to a complete fix. Which is always a good thing. :-)
 
So here is a few things I have done.

I bought all new coils (I have stopped messing around) and changed them out after putting brand new plugs in once again.

Stall after heat soak and about 30 min drive/idle.
Restart is hard sometimes it won't.

Let it sit and will restart and stall.

I will move onto fuel side because I have been ruling out the easy ones.

Did compression test a few minutes ago
#1 195
#2 190
#3 190
#4 190
#5 205
#6 190
 
Are you still getting the iac rattle? I was reading a member also had a iac rattle, along with stalls on anything except wot, with wet plugs as a result of the stall. He also had linking issues to his ecm.
A new/used ecm got him up and running while getting rid of his iac rattle and stalls.
Not saying this is your fix also. I just find it an odd behavior that an iac rattles.
 
HiLife said:
Are you still getting the iac rattle? I was reading a member also had a iac rattle, along with stalls on anything except wot, with wet plugs as a result of the stall. He also had linking issues to his ecm.
A new/used ecm got him up and running while getting rid of his iac rattle and stalls.
Not saying this is your fix also. I just find it an odd behavior that an iac rattles.
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IAC rattle is gone.
The clicking I hear once it stalls sounds like injector ( or my mind wants to think that at least)
I plan on doing fuel pressure test sometime in the next week or so plus.

If thats not it my guess could be computer or evap I suppose.
 
That hard start after a stall could be a flood condition if it tries to start but doesn’t.

If it doesn’t try at all after a stall it could be a bad crank or cam sensor.


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19963.4lsr5 said:
That hard start after a stall could be a flood condition if it tries to start but doesn’t.

If it doesn’t try at all after a stall it could be a bad crank or cam sensor.


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It tries to start. Sometimes it will fire right back up to die immediately. Then after a few tries it won't start at all.
 
sweet88gt said:
I have. If I remember it works kind of. Meaning it is not a fool proof way to get it to restart. It worked a couple of times and a few times not.
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On American cars it’s a clear flood condition that cuts off the fuel injectors.

Are you capable of pulling a plug at a failed restart to look for wet fuel soaked spark plugs?

Fuel pressure should tell you which branch of the troubleshooting ladder to follow based on fuel pressure when it doesn’t restart. If got fuel pressure I’d look at a bad crank or cam sensor. I can’t see injectors behaving like that. But with your milage injectors should be on the list as upkeep like the rad.

My thread shows me cleaning my injectors myself. They did need it.


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19963.4lsr5 said:
On American cars it’s a clear flood condition that cuts off the fuel injectors.

Are you capable of pulling a plug at a failed restart to look for wet fuel soaked spark plugs?

Fuel pressure should tell you which branch of the troubleshooting ladder to follow based on fuel pressure when it doesn’t restart. If got fuel pressure I’d look at a bad crank or cam sensor. I can’t see injectors behaving like that. But with your milage injectors should be on the list as upkeep like the rad.

My thread shows me cleaning my injectors myself. They did need it.


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I have pulled plugs directly after a stall twice. Not fuel soaked like you would think but present smell of fuel very evident.
I actually warmed the truck up today to do the compression check and of course it stalled before I had hoped. Pulled plugs and while they were wet this time the time before was not as evident. Fuel smell was always present both times.
 
sweet88gt said:
I have pulled plugs directly after a stall twice. Not fuel soaked like you would think but present smell of fuel very evident.
I actually warmed the truck up today to do the compression check and of course it stalled before I had hoped. Pulled plugs and while they were wet this time the time before was not as evident. Fuel smell was always present both times.
Click to expand...


If you had a spare crank sensor I’d swap it out. But, in this troubleshooting what is cheeper?

When it stalls and won’t restart can you do the ohm check on the crank and cam sensor and compare it to speck?


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19963.4lsr5 said:
If you had a spare crank sensor I’d swap it out. But, in this troubleshooting what is cheeper?

When it stalls and won’t restart can you do the ohm check on the crank and cam sensor and compare it to speck?


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Only reason I had not done so prior was the fact of no codes. At this point I could when I get some free time.
 
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