Lift/tire question to be clear

Hydro556

New member
I have searched, and I read conflicting info.

I have a 22 ORP due in November. I have black trd wheels I can buy and I can put 275 or 285 70-17 tires on them.

If I buy the Bilstein 6112 shocks how high will I likely need to lift to clear each set? And should I just get 1 inch rear springs to keep it level?

I know it's a dead horse but if you read thru this forum and others you see one guy say one thing and others directly contradict.
 
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I have searched, and I read conflicting info.

I have a 22 ORP due in November. I have black trd wheels I can buy and I can put 275 or 285 70-17 tires on them.

If I buy the Bilstein 6112 shocks how high will I likely need to lift to clear each set? And should I just get 1 inch rear springs to keep it level?

I know it's a dead horse but if you read thru this forum and others you see one guy say one thing and others directly contradict.

Exactly, you get contradicting information because everyone's results will differ. Are you going to get aftermarket UCAs? Being able to adjust caster can have a drastic change on what "rubs" or not. However, pushing something forward might clear your body mount but not clear your bumper. Lifting won't change your scrub radius so don't think lifting will stop rubbing.

So no... you're not going to get a definitive answer on what will rub or what will not. This is the typical "your results will vary". Don't be afraid to trim your bumper or get a body mount chop. It's really not that bad.
 
Exactly, you get contradicting information because everyone's results will differ. Are you going to get aftermarket UCAs? Being able to adjust caster can have a drastic change on what "rubs" or not. However, pushing something forward might clear your body mount but not clear your bumper. Lifting won't change your scrub radius so don't think lifting will stop rubbing.

So no... you're not going to get a definitive answer on what will rub or what will not. This is the typical "your results will vary". Don't be afraid to trim your bumper or get a body mount chop. It's really not that bad.
I have zero issue working the fender liner etc.

Just wanting to keep lift to a minimum while clearing largest tire without major surgery.
 
I have zero issue working the fender liner etc.

Just wanting to keep lift to a minimum while clearing largest tire without major surgery.

Lift does not help with clearing tires… suspension geometry, the arc the wheel travels and turns through, remains unchanged except for alignment… spring and shock doesn’t do that. Control arms etc can change wheel positioning through the range of motion or adjust bump stops etc, but lift doesn’t factor in to what you’re looking for.

Most people that have to do BMCs to fit “33s” go with aftermarket rims or spacers that screw with their scrub radius.
 
I think you will rub on stock with 275 70 17. I have read people have rubbing on stock height with 265 70 17 with the same TRD pro rims and running aggressive AT tires (wildpeaks). I have also read many don't have rubbing with the same set up but different tires. it will be difficult for anyone to comment on the lift set up that is needed to eliminate rub unless someone has ran your exact same set up. there are many variables as the previous posters have pointed out

to reduce the need for major surgery and the need for a lift you could just run 265 70 17 and the TRD rims. if you had a rub with that it would be very minor and very fixable with a heat gun. the reduced offset of the TRD rims will make the tires stick out more and increase the scrub radius and liklihood of rubbing - that is without even going up from stock tire size

edit: I know you are looking at getting a lift, but if the lift is solely to mitigate rubbing and not because you actually want to lift the truck for functionality I would stick to stock tire size and save a bunch of $$$
 
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I think you will rub on stock with 275 70 17. I have read people have rubbing on stock height with 265 70 17 with the same TRD pro rims and running aggressive AT tires (wildpeaks). I have also read many don't have rubbing with the same set up but different tires. it will be difficult for anyone to comment on the lift set up that is needed to eliminate rub unless someone has ran your exact same set up. there are many variables as the previous posters have pointed out

to reduce the need for major surgery and the need for a lift you could just run 265 70 17 and the TRD rims. if you had a rub with that it would be very minor and very fixable with a heat gun. the reduced offset of the TRD rims will make the tires stick out more and increase the scrub radius and liklihood of rubbing - that is without even going up from stock tire size

edit: I know you are looking at getting a lift, but if the lift is solely to mitigate rubbing and not because you actually want to lift the truck for functionality I would stick to stock tire size and save a bunch of $$$


I'm running factory suspension and TRD Pro wheels on my ORP. I got the 265 70 17 Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws and they fit perfectly. As you said, I've seen some people get away with 275 and a rare few 285s. I do want to run 285s at some point but i need a lift/chop...etc before I invest the money into 285s.
 
I ran 285 with no lift. I only had to grind down the welds on the body mount (not a chop, just grind a tiny bit) and push the inner fenders forward. No rub at all even with articulation.
 
I'm going with the 275s and will modify as needed I guess.

I think it'll be early next year before I can get my hands on the lift with the way things are going.
 
I have searched, and I read conflicting info.

I have a 22 ORP due in November. I have black trd wheels I can buy and I can put 275 or 285 70-17 tires on them.

If I buy the Bilstein 6112 shocks how high will I likely need to lift to clear each set? And should I just get 1 inch rear springs to keep it level?

I know it's a dead horse but if you read thru this forum and others you see one guy say one thing and others directly contradict.

The ORP comes with TRD OR wheels that are arguably better than Pro wheels. The OR wheels are wider and have better valve stem protection.

As others have written, a lift by itself will not affect what fits up front, because the range of motion is the same, and a larger tire will rub in the same places.

The many contradictory answers you see are due to varying offsets and UCAs, as well as varying context as to what "does it rub?" means. Articulation may not be needed to drive to the grocery store, so a diminished range of motion may be acceptable.
 
The ORP comes with TRD OR wheels that are arguably better than Pro wheels. The OR wheels are wider and have better valve stem protection.

As others have written, a lift by itself will not affect what fits up front, because the range of motion is the same, and a larger tire will rub in the same places.

The many contradictory answers you see are due to varying offsets and UCAs, as well as varying context as to what "does it rub?" means. Articulation may not be needed to drive to the grocery store, so a diminished range of motion may be acceptable.

Copy. I'll figure out what's needed to make them fit once I get it here.

Buying the TRD black wheels with Falken 275/75-17s Saturday. Once I get the truck I'll sort it out. Likely going back to Moab and Teton next fall so I'll have time to sort.
 
I wasn't aware that Falken made that size. I've heard good things about the Falken AT3W tires. I was concerned about the increase in unsprung rolling weight, so I wanted to keep the tires on the lighter side. Bfgoodrich KO2s in 285/70 17 c rated are actually lighter (51lbs.) than the smaller 275/70 17 e rated (56lbs.) I was considering going with 285/75 17s (34inch diameter) but that would push the weight past 60lbs per tire and made having to re-gear a possibility. I'm pretty happy with the 285/70 17s. I think it's kind of a sweet spot size for the 4runner. I still have a stock (265) size spare, but I understand that the 285s are about the largest that will fit in the stock spare location.
 

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