No, I just did this on Saturday. You have to roll the glass halfway down to disconnect it from the regulator. Then push it back into the up position. Then you can remove the old regulator.
Liftgate Window Regulator Corrosion
- Thread starter lightfreak
- Start date
No, I just did this on Saturday. You have to roll the glass halfway down to disconnect it from the regulator. Then push it back into the up position. Then you can remove the old regulator.
swapping hatches
Sorry to steal the thread, but I can't start my own threads yet.
I've got an 04 with significant rusting on the hatch, that is beyond repair. I am looking to get a used one, and there seems to be a lot of hatches with the spoiler, but mine does not have one. Does anyone know of the compatibiility of a hatch w/ the spoiler vs w/o? It'd save me a bunch of time if i don't have to drive three hours to get one w/o a spoiler.
Sorry to steal the thread, but I can't start my own threads yet.
I've got an 04 with significant rusting on the hatch, that is beyond repair. I am looking to get a used one, and there seems to be a lot of hatches with the spoiler, but mine does not have one. Does anyone know of the compatibiility of a hatch w/ the spoiler vs w/o? It'd save me a bunch of time if i don't have to drive three hours to get one w/o a spoiler.
Could this be from deteriorated weatherstrips that 4Runners are prone to having? I just noticed my lower section weatherstrip in the tailgate had torn and fallen down inside and was wondering if it was all corroded in there, and then i come across this thread. For you guys that have had the regulator fail, was your weatherstrip deteriorated or torn off?
Last edited:
lightfreak
New member
Mine are original and look brand new.
There was no other signs of rust other than the regulator and motor housing actually. The emblem garnish isn’t completely sealed , I think that’s how water and salt get into the hatch.
MikeinNH67
Senior Member
Certainly doesn't help. I just replaced mine with the one below as the old fel apart and no longer touched the window. I noticed it while I was replacing the window lift guts that were seized.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZL70VM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can find them on Ebay, I got these
2X Window Glass Channel Slider Sash Connector Clips for Honda, Nissan, Toyota | eBay
They come prethreaded for an 8 mm bolt. Note that you will need 2 sets of 2.
It depends on the state of the bolts connected to the window clips. Mine were just a block of rust and I had to cut them off with a jigsaw. Having done that you have to take the glass out so that you can remove the remainder of the window clips, which are bonded to the glass. I did this by heating up a sharp blade with a blowtorch and cutting through the plastic flush with the glass. Then when you fit the new clips you have to fill them with a bonding material ( I used Araldite) otherwise your window will drop out at some future date.
ClubberLang9
New member
2006 4runner Sport V8
I've noticed on all 4th generation 4runners the passenger side manifold rust out and clog that first catalytic converter and makes the Bank One sensor to go off making the check engine light come on well the easy way I figure it out the fix that in cheapest way and it's not a spark plug fouler it's drilling a small hole above that catalytic converter and spraying seafoam directly into it and that will clean all the rust that's out in there. then I've noticed the back window mine rusted-out the clamps and it kick sideways well when I straighten the back out it was going to put a part in there to keep it from falling down I bent down to grab the part in the window shattered all over me when I wasn't even touching it so now I'm replacing it and I didn't realize that the new window tracks doesn't come with Hardware nor the motor for the window so now I don't know what size the bolt is that holds the cable spool into the motor because I don't have any hardware plus it's already installed and I do not want to take it back apart again because I had to almost destroy the motor to get the first one out track system that is Penny know anyone knows what size bolt that goes into that cable spool for the tracks that goes into the window motor into the center let me know not to mention I had one hell of a time getting that spool to fit into that motor because it was off just a hair so I had to take a file and file out one of the sides of the spool so it would fit over the square nut but I've been over this vehicle head to toe I've got 6 amplifiers two batteries I ran a 0 gauge cable through the frame system to the back underneath to run that second battery to run everything and I've got lights in every possible place legal Ones white lights cuz they're the only ones in New York state that you can have under your vehicle not only are they under my vehicle they are in every possible spot you would need if you were doing some sort of work on it and to go camping like a bug-out vehicle I put a three-quarter inch piece of plywood up into the ceiling with a air mattress on top of it with a cable system in Motors back in the rear quarter panels that when you push a button the plywood drops down but you have to take the headrest off the seats put the seat all the way forward then all the way back then take the seat headrest stick them in the whole tree hold pre drilled holes into a two-by-four like a tree stand Christmas tree stand almost so you could support the plywood you stick it up underneath the plywood and then blow up the air mattress so you can sleep and then I have a projector on my rear liftgate so when it goes up the projector comes out of the liftgate and you could watch a 25-foot movie and it's all done nicely not to mention I took out my spare tire cut a hole in the back floor put a subfloor in there like it was like your spare tire goes on the inside but instead of the spare tire I put 312 and I'll make it the fires hidden with a piece of three-quarter inch plexiglass over-the-top so it's sealed then I have four 6x9 5 6 inch woofers that are three ways tweeters 24 inch TV in the front and that will clean all the rust that's out in there. then I've noticed the back window mine rusted out the clamps and it kicks sideways well when I straightened it back out and was going to put a part in there to keep it from falling down I've been down to grab the park in the window shattered all over me when I wasn't even touching it so now I'm replacing it and I didn't realize that the new window tracks doesn't come with Hardware nor the motor for the window so now I don't know what size the bolt is that holds the cable spool into the motor because I don't have any hardware plus it's already installed and I do not want to take it back apart again because I had to almost destroy the motor to get the first one out track system that is funny no anyone knows what size bolt that goes into the cable spool for the tracks that goes into the window motor into the center let me know not to mention I had one hell of a time getting a spool to fit into that motor because it was off just a hair so I had to take a file and file out one of the sides of the spool so it would fit over the square knot but I've been over this vehicle head to tell I've got 60 amplifiers two batteries I ran a 0 gauge cable through the frame system to the back underneath to run that second battery to run everything and I've got lights in every possible place legal ones white lights cuz they're the only ones in New York state that you can have under your vehicle and I'd only got the under my vehicle there every possible spot you would need if you were doing some sort of work on it and to go camping like a bug out vehicle I put a three-quarter inch piece of plywood up into the ceiling with a air mattress on top of it with the cable system and Motors back in the rear quarter panels that when you push a button the plywood drops down but you have to take the headrest off the seats put the sea all the way Ford then all the way back then take the seat headrest take a minute to Freehold pre drilled holes into a two-by-four like a tree stand or Christmas tree stand on most so you could support the plywood you stick it up underneath the plywood and then blow up the air mattress so you can sleep and then I have a projector on my rear liftgate so when it goes up the projector comes out of the liftgate and you can watch it 25 ft movie and it's all done nicely not to mention I took out my spare tire cut a hole in the back floor put a subfloor in there like it was like your spare tire goes on the inside but instead of the spare tire I put 312 s and I may have the fires hidden with a piece of three-quarter inch plexiglass over-the-top so what sealed that I have for six by nines 5/6 inch woofers that are three ways tweeters 24 inch TV in the front they checked out it's my bug out sorry about if anything is sounds weird it's because I'm using voice to text cuz I'm tired of texting
I've noticed on all 4th generation 4runners the passenger side manifold rust out and clog that first catalytic converter and makes the Bank One sensor to go off making the check engine light come on well the easy way I figure it out the fix that in cheapest way and it's not a spark plug fouler it's drilling a small hole above that catalytic converter and spraying seafoam directly into it and that will clean all the rust that's out in there. then I've noticed the back window mine rusted-out the clamps and it kick sideways well when I straighten the back out it was going to put a part in there to keep it from falling down I bent down to grab the part in the window shattered all over me when I wasn't even touching it so now I'm replacing it and I didn't realize that the new window tracks doesn't come with Hardware nor the motor for the window so now I don't know what size the bolt is that holds the cable spool into the motor because I don't have any hardware plus it's already installed and I do not want to take it back apart again because I had to almost destroy the motor to get the first one out track system that is Penny know anyone knows what size bolt that goes into that cable spool for the tracks that goes into the window motor into the center let me know not to mention I had one hell of a time getting that spool to fit into that motor because it was off just a hair so I had to take a file and file out one of the sides of the spool so it would fit over the square nut but I've been over this vehicle head to toe I've got 6 amplifiers two batteries I ran a 0 gauge cable through the frame system to the back underneath to run that second battery to run everything and I've got lights in every possible place legal Ones white lights cuz they're the only ones in New York state that you can have under your vehicle not only are they under my vehicle they are in every possible spot you would need if you were doing some sort of work on it and to go camping like a bug-out vehicle I put a three-quarter inch piece of plywood up into the ceiling with a air mattress on top of it with a cable system in Motors back in the rear quarter panels that when you push a button the plywood drops down but you have to take the headrest off the seats put the seat all the way forward then all the way back then take the seat headrest stick them in the whole tree hold pre drilled holes into a two-by-four like a tree stand Christmas tree stand almost so you could support the plywood you stick it up underneath the plywood and then blow up the air mattress so you can sleep and then I have a projector on my rear liftgate so when it goes up the projector comes out of the liftgate and you could watch a 25-foot movie and it's all done nicely not to mention I took out my spare tire cut a hole in the back floor put a subfloor in there like it was like your spare tire goes on the inside but instead of the spare tire I put 312 and I'll make it the fires hidden with a piece of three-quarter inch plexiglass over-the-top so it's sealed then I have four 6x9 5 6 inch woofers that are three ways tweeters 24 inch TV in the front and that will clean all the rust that's out in there. then I've noticed the back window mine rusted out the clamps and it kicks sideways well when I straightened it back out and was going to put a part in there to keep it from falling down I've been down to grab the park in the window shattered all over me when I wasn't even touching it so now I'm replacing it and I didn't realize that the new window tracks doesn't come with Hardware nor the motor for the window so now I don't know what size the bolt is that holds the cable spool into the motor because I don't have any hardware plus it's already installed and I do not want to take it back apart again because I had to almost destroy the motor to get the first one out track system that is funny no anyone knows what size bolt that goes into the cable spool for the tracks that goes into the window motor into the center let me know not to mention I had one hell of a time getting a spool to fit into that motor because it was off just a hair so I had to take a file and file out one of the sides of the spool so it would fit over the square knot but I've been over this vehicle head to tell I've got 60 amplifiers two batteries I ran a 0 gauge cable through the frame system to the back underneath to run that second battery to run everything and I've got lights in every possible place legal ones white lights cuz they're the only ones in New York state that you can have under your vehicle and I'd only got the under my vehicle there every possible spot you would need if you were doing some sort of work on it and to go camping like a bug out vehicle I put a three-quarter inch piece of plywood up into the ceiling with a air mattress on top of it with the cable system and Motors back in the rear quarter panels that when you push a button the plywood drops down but you have to take the headrest off the seats put the sea all the way Ford then all the way back then take the seat headrest take a minute to Freehold pre drilled holes into a two-by-four like a tree stand or Christmas tree stand on most so you could support the plywood you stick it up underneath the plywood and then blow up the air mattress so you can sleep and then I have a projector on my rear liftgate so when it goes up the projector comes out of the liftgate and you can watch it 25 ft movie and it's all done nicely not to mention I took out my spare tire cut a hole in the back floor put a subfloor in there like it was like your spare tire goes on the inside but instead of the spare tire I put 312 s and I may have the fires hidden with a piece of three-quarter inch plexiglass over-the-top so what sealed that I have for six by nines 5/6 inch woofers that are three ways tweeters 24 inch TV in the front they checked out it's my bug out sorry about if anything is sounds weird it's because I'm using voice to text cuz I'm tired of texting
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I only made it about 1/3 of the way through your post before giving up because it so hard to read without having punctuation marks, paragraphs, changing the subject in mid-sentence etc., if I were you I would edit it and add some minimum punctuation, so more members will read it!!
I'm very old but even I know that you can add punctuation marks when voice texting, you might want to read up on how to do it.
Marianne W
New member
The brine used on the roads in Ontario is atrocious. It eats metal. I've been told by a body shop owner that he had to replace all of his brakes on his new truck after its first winter on the road.
The tailgate on our 06 looks like swiss cheese. It's a mess inside. With everything that needs to be replaced on the tailgate, it would probably be cheaper to replace the whole thing except you can't buy a tailgate in Canada. I found a used one in good shape on line IN CALIFORNIA. He's asking over $800 US for it (and then there's shipping too).
Now that winter is approaching, I'll be waiting until spring to take on this job. Can't wait...
The tailgate on our 06 looks like swiss cheese. It's a mess inside. With everything that needs to be replaced on the tailgate, it would probably be cheaper to replace the whole thing except you can't buy a tailgate in Canada. I found a used one in good shape on line IN CALIFORNIA. He's asking over $800 US for it (and then there's shipping too).
Now that winter is approaching, I'll be waiting until spring to take on this job. Can't wait...
2008 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Tailgate Window Regulator Replacement Procedure and Tips
I agree. Thanks Lightfreak. I really appreciate you taking the time to take photos and post your tailgate window regulator replacement experience here. I just did this job on my 2008 4runner and it was nice to have a heads up. The window broke right off due to a rusted out right window mount. For anyone else looking to replace the tailgate regulator assembly in a 4th generation 4runner here's few more tips that I found helped me out.
Window Glass mounting bolt removal:
As Lightfreak mentioned, removing the four old rusty bolts connecting the glass to the regulator bracket can be the "most challenging" part of the job. Reusing the glass being the aim. I ended up using a hacksaw to cut off the brackets that were not already broken, while the door was in the tailgate. After removing the glass and setting on something soft (a folded tarp) I then and used a metal zip-cut disk on a 4" grinder and cut the bolts flush to the plastic on both sides. To avoid melting the plastic I would recommend using a spray bottle to cool the area as you cut off the old bolts and nuts while cutting intermittently to not overheat. I then used a cobalt drill bit to drill out the metal. A regular drill bit would likely do. One bracket did brake a little bit but it was still good enough to bolt back on to the new regulator assembly.
Use short bolts to connect the new regulator assembly to the glass:
The bolts I initially used to connect the glass where about 1.5" and too long. They hit the inside of the door when the door was put all the way up and down. I replaced them with smaller bolts that I cut to the right length. I would just make sure that the bolts are just long enough to get a nut and washer on them. Something like 1" would do the trick. The tolerances are pretty tight in there.
Removing the Philips head screws from the window motor.
The two screws on the metal cover over the cable drum on the window motor unit were really seized and hard to remove. I found that soaking with penetrating oil (WD-40) for about 30 mins and then using a manual hand impact driver with a Philips head did the trick. I just hit the hand impact driver a few times with a hammer and the screws broke free from the rusted metal. I was able to reuse them.
Disconnecting the latch motor from the tailgate ECU
This window regulator assembly replacement procedure involves removing the white connector between the latch and the ECU, to open the access panel that the ECU in mounted on. After reconnecting this white connector, putting everything together and closing the door it will no longer draw in automatically and will often just loosely half-latch. The familiar sound of the latching motor is completely absent. In this state you will not be able to open the tailgate, lock your vehicle, or lower the rear window because the tailgate is not closed all the way. No worries. Pop the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few seconds and reconnect it. You may also need to crawl inside the vehicle and manually release the latch though that small hole and try closing again. There is another thread for this issue.
This 4Runner has supported many adventure. I am a big fan.
Here's the basic procedure that I followed, mostly based the Tailgate Overhaul document Lightfreak shared earlier.
2008 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Tailgate Window Regulator Replacement
2021-01-20 – Rytanium
There is a lot going on in the tailgate of 4th generation 4runner. If you live in a winter wonderland like here in Ontario, Canada it can become a rusty mess in there after a few years. The space inside the tailgate is known to collect moisture and parts such as the door-latch and power-window regulator assemblies can rust and may fail in damp environments. The latch release button on the tailgate handle is reliable, but the black rubber cover is known to soften/melt in extremely hot weather and might need to be replaced. The latch release button is about $80. You might be able to find just the replacement rubber cover.
On my 2008 4Runner, the right window mount on the power window regulator (rail and cable) assembly rusted and broke-off after about 10 years of use. The entire regulator assembly needs to be replaced, while the glass and the power-window motor can be removed and re-used. I was able to purchase an OEM rear window regulator assembly via eBay in the USA. The total cost was $250 CAD with shipping and duty and exchange rate ($150 US pre duty/shipping).
All 4th generation 4runners (2003-2009) have the same tailgate and use the same parts as far as I know.
After completing work inside the tailgate, it is a good idea to make sure the tailgate drain holes are open, free of rusty debris or sand, and lubricate everything that looks rusty. A little copper/silver anti-seize on rusty bolts does not hurt.
Torque all bolts with 10mm heads fairly tight to 8.0 N-m (71 inch-lbs).
To complete the window regulator replacement:
1. Lower and close the tailgate. Make sure the door latch works properly.
2. Move the window to the middle position (to gain access to the brackets).
3. Raise the tailgate.
4. Disconnect the negative from the battery to make it safe.
5. Remove the two small grey square plastic covers on the inside tailgate with a flat head screwdriver. One covers the pull strap bolt and the other allows for access to the manual tailgate latch release lever.
6. Remove the pull strap by removing the 10 mm bolt.
7. Remove the grey plastic panel clips (11 of them) by pulling down around the perimeter of the panel board with a plastic flat bar or use your hands.
8. With the grey panel board loose, push it up toward the top of the window and remove it.
9. Remove the clear plastic covering the tail gate service holes.
(Careful not to touch the black butyl tape, it is a sticky mess)
10. Disconnect the black connector between the ECU (electrical control unit) and the window motor, using a small flat head screwdriver.
11. Unclip the white connector (ECU to the tailgate latch motor) by inserting a small flathead screwdriver in behind the clip and sliding it out. Disconnect the white connector.
12. Remove the five screws the hold the metal service hole cover behind the ECU Let the ECU hang to the side.
13. Remove the two connectors for the window defrost.
14. Remove the rubber door glass run and the lower outer weatherstrip. (to make room to remove the glass)
15. Remove the four 10mm bolts fastening the window to the regulator assembly. You may need to cut the brackets off using a hand hacksaw and remove the bolts on the bench using a metal zip-cut grinder and drill. Keep cool while cutting by spraying with water. Remove the glass by placing the upper right corner in the pocket on the right side of the window frame. Set it in a safe place.
16. Remove the black regulator control cable from the small plastic clip on the white plastic door latch cover.
17. Remove the six bolts that attach the regulator assembly to the tailgate.
18. Remove the two nuts that attach the window motor to the tailgate.
19. Remove the window regulator and motor assembly through the service hole.
20. On the bench remove the motor from the defective regulator assembly buy removing the two small Philips head screws. You may need to use a manual hand impact driver to remove them if they are seized. Pre-soak with penetrating oil.
21. Set the position of the window mounts on the new window regulator assembly to the same position as the old one. Install the motor on the new window regulator assembly by removing the old cable drum and wire guide and installing the new one into the motor. Add lithium grease into the cable drum housing before installing the cover. Apply lithium grease to the sliding and rotating parts of the window regulator cabling system if not already done.
22. Install the window regulator and motor back into the tailgate. 6 bolts plus two nuts.
23. Connect the black regulator control cable to the white plastic latch cover and slide the other grey behind the latch cover groove.
24. Install the window and connect it to the regulator assembly with four 1” bolts and related hardware. Use lock washers and cover with never-seize grease.
25. Install the door glass run and weather outside stripping.
26. Install the metal service hole cover with the 5 screws.
27. Reconnect the ECU to the power window motor (black connector).
28. Attach and reconnect the ECU to the door latch (white connector).
29. Install the clear plastic sheet over the service holes. Alight with existing butyl tape.
30. Install the grey plastic door panel by inserting the part along the window first and pushing toward the bottom of door. Once the clips are aligned with clip holes push in and fasten door.
31. Install pull strap with 10 mm bolt, and the install grey plastic cover.
32. Optional: Cut a hand size hole in the plastic sheet to allow access to the latch.
33. Install grey plastic cover for the manual latch release access hole.
34. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. If it was not disconnected as per step 4 it will need to be disconnected it now. Wait 30 seconds and reconnect. This will reset the tailgate ECU and allow the latch motor to operate.
35. Close the tailgate. Ensure it draws in and latches correctly.
36. Open the tailgate. Ensure is opens correctly.
37. Insert key into the ignition and lower the tailgate window using the tailgate window down button on the dash. Continue holding the window down button for 2 seconds after it is lowered. Raise the tailgate window all the way up and continue holding up for 2 seconds after it is fully raised. The window is now normalized.
38. Test the that the key-fob is now able to lower the window.
39. Insert the key into the tailgate key cylinder and test raising the window.
40. Verify that all the doors and tailgate can be locked and unlocked.
Done.
I agree. Thanks Lightfreak. I really appreciate you taking the time to take photos and post your tailgate window regulator replacement experience here. I just did this job on my 2008 4runner and it was nice to have a heads up. The window broke right off due to a rusted out right window mount. For anyone else looking to replace the tailgate regulator assembly in a 4th generation 4runner here's few more tips that I found helped me out.
Window Glass mounting bolt removal:
As Lightfreak mentioned, removing the four old rusty bolts connecting the glass to the regulator bracket can be the "most challenging" part of the job. Reusing the glass being the aim. I ended up using a hacksaw to cut off the brackets that were not already broken, while the door was in the tailgate. After removing the glass and setting on something soft (a folded tarp) I then and used a metal zip-cut disk on a 4" grinder and cut the bolts flush to the plastic on both sides. To avoid melting the plastic I would recommend using a spray bottle to cool the area as you cut off the old bolts and nuts while cutting intermittently to not overheat. I then used a cobalt drill bit to drill out the metal. A regular drill bit would likely do. One bracket did brake a little bit but it was still good enough to bolt back on to the new regulator assembly.
Use short bolts to connect the new regulator assembly to the glass:
The bolts I initially used to connect the glass where about 1.5" and too long. They hit the inside of the door when the door was put all the way up and down. I replaced them with smaller bolts that I cut to the right length. I would just make sure that the bolts are just long enough to get a nut and washer on them. Something like 1" would do the trick. The tolerances are pretty tight in there.
Removing the Philips head screws from the window motor.
The two screws on the metal cover over the cable drum on the window motor unit were really seized and hard to remove. I found that soaking with penetrating oil (WD-40) for about 30 mins and then using a manual hand impact driver with a Philips head did the trick. I just hit the hand impact driver a few times with a hammer and the screws broke free from the rusted metal. I was able to reuse them.
Disconnecting the latch motor from the tailgate ECU
This window regulator assembly replacement procedure involves removing the white connector between the latch and the ECU, to open the access panel that the ECU in mounted on. After reconnecting this white connector, putting everything together and closing the door it will no longer draw in automatically and will often just loosely half-latch. The familiar sound of the latching motor is completely absent. In this state you will not be able to open the tailgate, lock your vehicle, or lower the rear window because the tailgate is not closed all the way. No worries. Pop the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few seconds and reconnect it. You may also need to crawl inside the vehicle and manually release the latch though that small hole and try closing again. There is another thread for this issue.
This 4Runner has supported many adventure. I am a big fan.
Here's the basic procedure that I followed, mostly based the Tailgate Overhaul document Lightfreak shared earlier.
2008 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Tailgate Window Regulator Replacement
2021-01-20 – Rytanium
There is a lot going on in the tailgate of 4th generation 4runner. If you live in a winter wonderland like here in Ontario, Canada it can become a rusty mess in there after a few years. The space inside the tailgate is known to collect moisture and parts such as the door-latch and power-window regulator assemblies can rust and may fail in damp environments. The latch release button on the tailgate handle is reliable, but the black rubber cover is known to soften/melt in extremely hot weather and might need to be replaced. The latch release button is about $80. You might be able to find just the replacement rubber cover.
On my 2008 4Runner, the right window mount on the power window regulator (rail and cable) assembly rusted and broke-off after about 10 years of use. The entire regulator assembly needs to be replaced, while the glass and the power-window motor can be removed and re-used. I was able to purchase an OEM rear window regulator assembly via eBay in the USA. The total cost was $250 CAD with shipping and duty and exchange rate ($150 US pre duty/shipping).
All 4th generation 4runners (2003-2009) have the same tailgate and use the same parts as far as I know.
After completing work inside the tailgate, it is a good idea to make sure the tailgate drain holes are open, free of rusty debris or sand, and lubricate everything that looks rusty. A little copper/silver anti-seize on rusty bolts does not hurt.
Torque all bolts with 10mm heads fairly tight to 8.0 N-m (71 inch-lbs).
To complete the window regulator replacement:
1. Lower and close the tailgate. Make sure the door latch works properly.
2. Move the window to the middle position (to gain access to the brackets).
3. Raise the tailgate.
4. Disconnect the negative from the battery to make it safe.
5. Remove the two small grey square plastic covers on the inside tailgate with a flat head screwdriver. One covers the pull strap bolt and the other allows for access to the manual tailgate latch release lever.
6. Remove the pull strap by removing the 10 mm bolt.
7. Remove the grey plastic panel clips (11 of them) by pulling down around the perimeter of the panel board with a plastic flat bar or use your hands.
8. With the grey panel board loose, push it up toward the top of the window and remove it.
9. Remove the clear plastic covering the tail gate service holes.
(Careful not to touch the black butyl tape, it is a sticky mess)
10. Disconnect the black connector between the ECU (electrical control unit) and the window motor, using a small flat head screwdriver.
11. Unclip the white connector (ECU to the tailgate latch motor) by inserting a small flathead screwdriver in behind the clip and sliding it out. Disconnect the white connector.
12. Remove the five screws the hold the metal service hole cover behind the ECU Let the ECU hang to the side.
13. Remove the two connectors for the window defrost.
14. Remove the rubber door glass run and the lower outer weatherstrip. (to make room to remove the glass)
15. Remove the four 10mm bolts fastening the window to the regulator assembly. You may need to cut the brackets off using a hand hacksaw and remove the bolts on the bench using a metal zip-cut grinder and drill. Keep cool while cutting by spraying with water. Remove the glass by placing the upper right corner in the pocket on the right side of the window frame. Set it in a safe place.
16. Remove the black regulator control cable from the small plastic clip on the white plastic door latch cover.
17. Remove the six bolts that attach the regulator assembly to the tailgate.
18. Remove the two nuts that attach the window motor to the tailgate.
19. Remove the window regulator and motor assembly through the service hole.
20. On the bench remove the motor from the defective regulator assembly buy removing the two small Philips head screws. You may need to use a manual hand impact driver to remove them if they are seized. Pre-soak with penetrating oil.
21. Set the position of the window mounts on the new window regulator assembly to the same position as the old one. Install the motor on the new window regulator assembly by removing the old cable drum and wire guide and installing the new one into the motor. Add lithium grease into the cable drum housing before installing the cover. Apply lithium grease to the sliding and rotating parts of the window regulator cabling system if not already done.
22. Install the window regulator and motor back into the tailgate. 6 bolts plus two nuts.
23. Connect the black regulator control cable to the white plastic latch cover and slide the other grey behind the latch cover groove.
24. Install the window and connect it to the regulator assembly with four 1” bolts and related hardware. Use lock washers and cover with never-seize grease.
25. Install the door glass run and weather outside stripping.
26. Install the metal service hole cover with the 5 screws.
27. Reconnect the ECU to the power window motor (black connector).
28. Attach and reconnect the ECU to the door latch (white connector).
29. Install the clear plastic sheet over the service holes. Alight with existing butyl tape.
30. Install the grey plastic door panel by inserting the part along the window first and pushing toward the bottom of door. Once the clips are aligned with clip holes push in and fasten door.
31. Install pull strap with 10 mm bolt, and the install grey plastic cover.
32. Optional: Cut a hand size hole in the plastic sheet to allow access to the latch.
33. Install grey plastic cover for the manual latch release access hole.
34. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. If it was not disconnected as per step 4 it will need to be disconnected it now. Wait 30 seconds and reconnect. This will reset the tailgate ECU and allow the latch motor to operate.
35. Close the tailgate. Ensure it draws in and latches correctly.
36. Open the tailgate. Ensure is opens correctly.
37. Insert key into the ignition and lower the tailgate window using the tailgate window down button on the dash. Continue holding the window down button for 2 seconds after it is lowered. Raise the tailgate window all the way up and continue holding up for 2 seconds after it is fully raised. The window is now normalized.
38. Test the that the key-fob is now able to lower the window.
39. Insert the key into the tailgate key cylinder and test raising the window.
40. Verify that all the doors and tailgate can be locked and unlocked.
Done.
Last edited:
GreaseJunkie
New member
This thread is fairly old, but hoping I could get some insight on how to get the motor cover off. I see some little Phillips heads, but that's it. If those are the ones, I'm worried about stripping those little guys.
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lightfreak
New member
If I recall correctly, it is just the 2 little screws holding that cover on. They were pretty corroded as you can see from my pics, but penetrating fluid and a good soak got them out easy. I think they might be the same screws as the ones holding the license plate light covers
Liftgate Window Regulator Replacement - 5th Gen - Remove Back Window?
Hello lightfreak
Just found your VERY useful Thread on replacing a corroded Liftgate Window Regulator and Sub Assembly.
I have the exact same problem with my 2016 T4R SR5.
I've bought a new Motor and Sub Assembly on eBay. And plan to fit myself. Will be following your detailed instructions.
But, my 2016 T4R has a different Spoiler to yours, and I can't see how to slide the Window Glass out however much I wiggle it!
Can you give more detail of your wiggle and slide technique?
Or do you reckon it's possible to replace the Motor and Sub Assembly without removing the Glass Window?
KrisB410 says later in the thread you started (Post #21) that there's no need to remove the glass: "You have to roll the glass halfway down to disconnect it from the regulator. Then push it back into the up position. Then you can remove the old regulator."
From your experience, is this feasible?
Appreciate your :help: help on this one, the repair is pretty daunting!
Cheers, David H
Hello lightfreak
Just found your VERY useful Thread on replacing a corroded Liftgate Window Regulator and Sub Assembly.
I have the exact same problem with my 2016 T4R SR5.
I've bought a new Motor and Sub Assembly on eBay. And plan to fit myself. Will be following your detailed instructions.
But, my 2016 T4R has a different Spoiler to yours, and I can't see how to slide the Window Glass out however much I wiggle it!
Can you give more detail of your wiggle and slide technique?
Or do you reckon it's possible to replace the Motor and Sub Assembly without removing the Glass Window?
KrisB410 says later in the thread you started (Post #21) that there's no need to remove the glass: "You have to roll the glass halfway down to disconnect it from the regulator. Then push it back into the up position. Then you can remove the old regulator."
From your experience, is this feasible?
Appreciate your :help: help on this one, the repair is pretty daunting!
Cheers, David H
Drcoffee
Senior Member
WTH. On a 2016? How can that happen? Id call Toyota corp and see what they can do. It should never rust out in 5 years.
Liftgate Window Regulator Replacement - 5th Gen - Remove Back Window?
Hello Drcoffee
My 2016 T4R SR5 spent its first year living in the Atacama Desert of Northern Chile as a Desert Experience Expedition vehicle. When I bought it in September 2017, with 45k miles on the clock, it was full of red desert dust (sand) - and I mean full - every nook and cranny!
Thought I'd cleaned it all out back in 2017, but I forgot about the Tailgate!! Now I'm paying the price.
The Sub Assembly hasn't rusted as bad as lightfreak's but the desert sand has clogged every moving part and the motor and cable have been straining to pull the window up - so much so that the cable has frayed and is about to snap. Plus the channels are badly rusted, the supports are badly rusted and the motor casing is badly rusted. Luckily all the bolts and screws look serviceable so I'm hoping easy out with the old and easy in with the new!?
I have concerns about removing the window glass. KrisB410 says it's not necessary. But he's a 4th Gen owner. Any views on replacing the Motor and Sub Assembly on a 5th Gen without removing the Glass Window? :shrug:
Cheers, David H
Hello Drcoffee
My 2016 T4R SR5 spent its first year living in the Atacama Desert of Northern Chile as a Desert Experience Expedition vehicle. When I bought it in September 2017, with 45k miles on the clock, it was full of red desert dust (sand) - and I mean full - every nook and cranny!
Thought I'd cleaned it all out back in 2017, but I forgot about the Tailgate!! Now I'm paying the price.
The Sub Assembly hasn't rusted as bad as lightfreak's but the desert sand has clogged every moving part and the motor and cable have been straining to pull the window up - so much so that the cable has frayed and is about to snap. Plus the channels are badly rusted, the supports are badly rusted and the motor casing is badly rusted. Luckily all the bolts and screws look serviceable so I'm hoping easy out with the old and easy in with the new!?
I have concerns about removing the window glass. KrisB410 says it's not necessary. But he's a 4th Gen owner. Any views on replacing the Motor and Sub Assembly on a 5th Gen without removing the Glass Window? :shrug:
Cheers, David H
bernardandrews661
New member
The connectors for the defroster were heavily corroded, lots of buildup inside the connector.
lightfreak, thanks for this thread. And in particular for the tailgate overhaul procedure PDF. :cheer2:
Two days ago I had a scare when I was out in the boonies and had great difficulty getting the rear window up. I've pulled the trim, etc and found lots of dust in the tailgate (I'm in Nevada). So probably the moving parts are just a bit gummed up.
I wasn't sure what to lube everything with, but thanks to your file I see they spec MP grease. I've got a 5th gen but the parts look the same so I presume the same lube is fine.
I might have just sprayed everything with WD40. Who knows, I might still do that since I'm not sure I'll keep this vehicle all that much longer, LOL. :decision:
Those frail-looking tabs that attach the regulator to the window are scary.
I'm surprised they don't break simply due to vibrations and shock, especially if you drive a lot of rough roads!
Two days ago I had a scare when I was out in the boonies and had great difficulty getting the rear window up. I've pulled the trim, etc and found lots of dust in the tailgate (I'm in Nevada). So probably the moving parts are just a bit gummed up.
I wasn't sure what to lube everything with, but thanks to your file I see they spec MP grease. I've got a 5th gen but the parts look the same so I presume the same lube is fine.
I might have just sprayed everything with WD40. Who knows, I might still do that since I'm not sure I'll keep this vehicle all that much longer, LOL. :decision:
Those frail-looking tabs that attach the regulator to the window are scary.
I'm surprised they don't break simply due to vibrations and shock, especially if you drive a lot of rough roads!
I just want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread, I was able to successfully replace my failed regulator yesterday. I was able to get 3 of the 4 window bracket bolts out, had to drill one out. I’m sure had I gone to the dealer I would have paid to replace the glass also. All the pics and directions listed in this thread were invaluable.
I too struggled with the corroded regulator. Left mounting totally broke apart. Fortunately the glass survived but not one of its the plastic brackets.
For everyone who don't want to spend $$ on the new glass there is a solution. I made a bracket from some stiff piece of plastic and fix it with the windshield glue. But be careful with removing the leftovers from the old broken bracket.
Bracket:
bracket2.jpg - Google Drive
For everyone who don't want to spend $$ on the new glass there is a solution. I made a bracket from some stiff piece of plastic and fix it with the windshield glue. But be careful with removing the leftovers from the old broken bracket.
Bracket:
bracket2.jpg - Google Drive
