Light Racing UCA ball joints

Some of the Camburg UCA's w/ the MOOG ball joint w/ zerk pre-pressed from Wheelers would seem to be the compromise between ball joints/Uni-ball maintenance and increased caster requirements that the LR UCA seems to fall short on.

Camburg UCA - 310040 "Ball-Joint" Upper Control Arm Set with Moog Ball Joints Pre-installed

I have never tried these UCA's myself, so I have no first hand experience and have read little about them. A few comments about the MOOG ball joints being lower in quaiity than the (excellent) Toyota ball joints is all I can find, but all they seem to reference is that they are slightly oversized and difficult to press correctly - a problem seemingly avoided by having Wheelers do it.

I would be interested in hearing others opinions about the Wheeler's Camburg/Moog UCA....

David

So my opinion on those Having not seen or installed any yet; they look like something someone came up with in their garage when their uniball failed.

In my best engineer voice, "the pivot point is significantly altered fron the initial design of that control arm, thus the angle of the female side of the balljoint won't exactly be correct." Not saying it won't work but just that its way under engineered. Kinda hard to explain, but the piviot is an inch below what that arm was designed for, which changes the geometry through out the range.


Someone buy these and have me install them so I can form a better opinion.
 
So my opinion on those Having not seen or installed any yet; they look like something someone came up with in their garage when their uniball failed.

In my best engineer voice, "the pivot point is significantly altered fron the initial design of that control arm, thus the angle of the female side of the balljoint won't exactly be correct." Not saying it won't work but just that its way under engineered. Kinda hard to explain, but the piviot is an inch below what that arm was designed for, which changes the geometry through out the range.


Someone buy these and have me install them so I can form a better opinion.


Product Description

Camburg UCA


Looking to change out your upper control arms without hitting the bank account too hard? Camburg UCA’s offer a performance upper arm that utilizes your stock OEM Toyota ball-joint. It gives many of the same benefits their uniball upper arms offer at a much lower cost. With Toyota’s new chassis, the factory ball-joint is considerably stronger & larger than in previous years. By building an upper arm to re-angle the ball-joint, you’re able to gain more wheel travel and keep the joint in its normal operating range. These arms also correct the suspension geometry by increasing much needed caster which improves handling and allows for a wider range of alignment adjustment. The tubular construction also gives you more tire & shock clearance compared to the stock stamped arm.


These arms are designed to be used with stock unmodified spindles or Camburg performance lift spindles in conjunction with an approved 2″-3″ lift bolt-in coilover. They were not designed to be used in conjunction with other suspension kits or spacer type kits.Maximum wheel backspacing = 4.50″ - See more at: Camburg UCA - 310040 "Ball-Joint" Upper Control Arm Set with Moog Ball Joints Pre-installed





So you're not feeling it I take it?

Not being critical of your post - I know nothing of them other than looking at a few web pages, your opinion is the only evaluation I've seen so far other than people irritated the MOOG ball joints were a royal pain to press.

I'm still looking for the magic UCA that has a reasonable shot at 100K with mild wheeling and a little grease....

David
 

Product Description

Camburg UCA


Looking to change out your upper control arms without hitting the bank account too hard? Camburg UCA’s offer a performance upper arm that utilizes your stock OEM Toyota ball-joint. It gives many of the same benefits their uniball upper arms offer at a much lower cost. With Toyota’s new chassis, the factory ball-joint is considerably stronger & larger than in previous years. By building an upper arm to re-angle the ball-joint, you’re able to gain more wheel travel and keep the joint in its normal operating range. These arms also correct the suspension geometry by increasing much needed caster which improves handling and allows for a wider range of alignment adjustment. The tubular construction also gives you more tire & shock clearance compared to the stock stamped arm.


These arms are designed to be used with stock unmodified spindles or Camburg performance lift spindles in conjunction with an approved 2″-3″ lift bolt-in coilover. They were not designed to be used in conjunction with other suspension kits or spacer type kits.Maximum wheel backspacing = 4.50″ - See more at: Camburg UCA - 310040 "Ball-Joint" Upper Control Arm Set with Moog Ball Joints Pre-installed





So you're not feeling it I take it?

Not being critical of your post - I know nothing of them other than looking at a few web pages, your opinion is the only evaluation I've seen so far other than people irritated the MOOG ball joints were a royal pain to press.

I'm still looking for the magic UCA that has a reasonable shot at 100K with mild wheeling and a little grease....

David

Yeah, I read that but If i were to completely redesign a part, I wouldn't leave it looking like theres supposed to be a uniball in its place. But if it is different( can't tell by pictures) and they decided to just reuse parts that they already made, it was likely due to cost.


Im thinking the $1200 billet icons have the best chance , they have a nice bolt on cap, are adjustable and super sexy.
 
Yeah, I read that but If i were to completely redesign a part, I wouldn't leave it looking like theres supposed to be a uniball in its place. But if it is different( can't tell by pictures) and they decided to just reuse parts that they already made, it was likely due to cost.


Im thinking the $1200 billet icons have the best chance , they have a nice bolt on cap, are adjustable and super sexy.

This mainly why it will last 100k right?

You know after reading what you and David brought up, I think it actually makes sense to lower that ball joint an inch lower. For example, if you lift the truck say 2" with a stock UCA, have you noticed how much steeper of an angle the UCA is? It's pointing kind of downwards, which means it's already at it's outer limits of rotation. Now imagine welding a 1" tall "drop bracket" between the stock UCA and the ball joint. This would push the UCA upwards and more parallel, while keeping the ball joint in the same exact position; and thus placing it back into the middle of it's rotation range.

Not sure if you can follow that, but it seems to make sense in my head, lol.
 
This mainly why it will last 100k right?

You know after reading what you and David brought up, I think it actually makes sense to lower that ball joint an inch lower. For example, if you lift the truck say 2" with a stock UCA, have you noticed how much steeper of an angle the UCA is? It's pointing kind of downwards, which means it's already at it's outer limits of rotation. Now imagine welding a 1" tall "drop bracket" between the stock UCA and the ball joint. This would push the UCA upwards and more parallel, while keeping the ball joint in the same exact position; and thus placing it back into the middle of it's rotation range.

Not sure if you can follow that, but it seems to make sense in my head, lol.

Interesting pictures on the Tundra forum comparing the stock UCA to the Camburg...

Camburg OE ball joint UCA install - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum

I dunno....

David
 
^^Interesting! I'm no expert, but that looks like a healthy amount of extra caster built into the arms. Some one pull the trigger and buy some already so we can see similar comparison pix :)

Actually, I think I recall someone on here saying they were going to buy a set of these...was it you [MENTION=45399]thebwlife[/MENTION] ?????
 
^^Interesting! I'm no expert, but that looks like a healthy amount of extra caster built into the arms. Some one pull the trigger and buy some already so we can see similar comparison pix :)

Actually, I think I recall someone on here saying they were going to buy a set of these...was it you [MENTION=45399]thebwlife[/MENTION] ?????

Yep it was me, still waiting on my house and garage to get finished. I have the lift sitting in storage right now. Getting close! This is from yesterday.

I believe these have 2* of caster built in.
 

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Im thinking the $1200 billet icons have the best chance , they have a nice bolt on cap, are adjustable and super sexy.
I feel like the billets are just bling and have no real advantage over the tubular arms. You can also buy those caps for their tubular arms, but I think they'll give people a false sense of security or actually be worse than uncovered. The bottom of the uniball will still be exposed so stuff can still get in there. When you go to the car wash you also won't be cleaning the tops of the uniballs unless you take the covers off. Stuff is still going to get in there if those covers aren't sealed airtight. I have no direct experience with these arms or the covers though - these are just my thoughts.
 
Yep it was me, still waiting on my house and garage to get finished. I have the lift sitting in storage right now. Getting close! This is from yesterday.

I believe these have 2* of caster built in.

If that's the garage, I can't even imagine what the rest of the actual house looks like :naughty:

My garage: (Which is starting to look like a closet after seeing yours, lol)





Okay I won't thread jack anymore, please posts some comparison pix whenever you get around to it if you can! It would be much appreciated :)
 
I feel like the billets are just bling and have no real advantage over the tubular arms. You can also buy those caps for their tubular arms, but I think they'll give people a false sense of security or actually be worse than uncovered. The bottom of the uniball will still be exposed so stuff can still get in there. When you go to the car wash you also won't be cleaning the tops of the uniballs unless you take the covers off. Stuff is still going to get in there if those covers aren't sealed airtight. I have no direct experience with these arms or the covers though - these are just my thoughts.

So the Billet control arm caps, have an oring seal and 4 screws that hold them down, Should do a pretty damn good job of keeping debris out. I believe [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION] and [MENTION=78705]jangoforhire[/MENTION] have these and can answer the question. The caps for the tubular arms that [MENTION=97614]swimmerdude1127[/MENTION] has, are just double sided taped on. And i can't remember if they fell off or he took them off. Either way it didn't look like the great solution everyone was hoping for.
 
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Some of the Camburg UCA's w/ the MOOG ball joint w/ zerk pre-pressed from Wheelers would seem to be the compromise between ball joints/Uni-ball maintenance and increased caster requirements that the LR UCA seems to fall short on.

Camburg UCA - 310040 "Ball-Joint" Upper Control Arm Set with Moog Ball Joints Pre-installed

I have never tried these UCA's myself, so I have no first hand experience and have read little about them. A few comments about the MOOG ball joints being lower in quaiity than the (excellent) Toyota ball joints is all I can find, but all they seem to reference is that they are slightly oversized and difficult to press correctly - a problem seemingly avoided by having Wheelers do it.

I would be interested in hearing others opinions about the Wheeler's Camburg/Moog UCA....

David
exactly what i've heard, David. Camburg basically said only "x" out of 10 Moogs will actually press in due to lower tolerances in their production. pressing in your Toyota OEM balljoints would be preferable, but how far along in their service life are they by the time you're ready to transfer them over? and short of buying the whole OEM assembly, where to find new Toyota BJs when they need replacing themselves?
 
Thanks guys, it's a pretty sweet set up. 44x23x12 has a 4x12 area for workbench and 2 8x18' oversized garage doors.

We need to start a garage thread for tools and ideas!

I agree! My only requirement for our next house is that it have a large enough garage for me to actually work out there, or enough land to build a large pole barn.
 
Thanks guys, it's a pretty sweet set up. 44x23x12 has a 4x12 area for workbench and 2 8x18' oversized garage doors.

We need to start a garage thread for tools and ideas!

Damn...I am about to embark on a new garage build and am limited to 40x20. Not small but not what I want either. I want to garage door tall too so I can get a lifted truck in there without taking crap off the rack...lol.
 
If that's the garage, I can't even imagine what the rest of the actual house looks like.

Okay I won't thread jack anymore, please posts some comparison pix whenever you get around to it if you can! It would be much appreciated :)


One more because you kinda asked, I'm not normally a look at my stuff type guy but I'm really proud of this house because I designed it from the bottom up, floor plan, inside, and out. Here is a pic of the inside as of yesterday.

PS to keep it on topic as soon as I get my camburgs I'll take some pictures like those in the tundra forum.
 

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So the Billet control arm caps, have an oring seal and 4 screws that hold them down, Should do a pretty damn good job of keeping debris out. I believe [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION] and [MENTION=78705]jangoforhire[/MENTION] have these and can answer the question. The caps for the tubular arms that [MENTION=97614]swimmerdude1127[/MENTION] has, are just double sided taped on. And i can't remember if they fell off or he took them off. Either way it didn't look like the great solution everyone was hoping for.

Hmm...but no matter how well you seal the top, wouldn't the stuff still get in through the bottom? (and then work it's way upwards?)
 
One more because you kinda asked, I'm not normally a look at my stuff type guy but I'm really proud of this house because I designed it from the bottom up, floor plan, inside, and out. Here is a pic of the inside as of yesterday.

PS to keep it on topic as soon as I get my camburgs I'll take some pictures like those in the tundra forum.

You should be proud! That house is incredible!
 
Light Racing UCA after 12k and around 10 mos.

Sorry for the long delay in getting this swap and the pics up here guys but I was dealing with a concussion for a bit so between that and weather the truck has been a bit neglected. Anyways - got the Desert Racing Uniball UCAs in today and took pics of the old Light Racing ones.
[MENTION=99235]Scott@Hightech[/MENTION] - I'll see you this week hopefully to get an alignment but it actually seems pretty close right now.

This was the passenger side ball joint after 12k and 10 months. Externally, the boots were both in perfect shape and fit snugly. Not really sure where the water infiltration occurred but the ball joint is totally shot and has excessive play.



In with the new. Anyone considering Desert Racing UCAs, I highly recommend them. Really well built and hopefully they'll hold up well!

 
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