Light switch illumination headache!

[kolelt]

Im having issues trying to figure out why my aftermarket light switch button stays illuminated always.

I have a auxiliary BlueSea fuse boxes installed. Wired directly to the battery. So the fuse box has constant power.

I have 2 led bars. 1 in the front and 1 in the back and they both have the same wiring kit, same relay and both go directly to the BlueSea fuse box. And both have a amp installed.

The wiring kit that came with the light came with prewired relay, and some cheap switch that has the 3M double sticky tape on it. I ordered aftermarket switches that illuminate green.

Everything seems to be going out of the relay. The relay has 3 groups of wires going into it.

1group)Blue, black, white ( this was wired to the cheap switch)

2group) Red and black. (this is wired to the plug that plugs into the light.

3group)Red and black (the red had a fuse installed in-line, which I removed because I connected the red directly to the fuse box and installed the proper fuse. )

looking at the relay, they have the following.

all BLACK wires going into 1 location.

1 red by its self

1 blue wire by its self

and a RED and WHITE wire together.

My light switch has 3 pins. I currently have the WHITE, and BLUE hooked up to it. This makes the light go ON and OFF. But if I hook up the 3rd BLACK wire to the last top pin on the button. It illuminates the button but it stays lit green at all times. How do I make it so it's not lit at all times. And only on ignition. And still keep it wired to the BlueSea fuse box ?

Am I missing something ? i don't understand.


here is the relay for the front light bar/switch. It is same exact relay and wiring for the rear light also.




The wires running to the relay.




these are the light switches



This is the back part of the light switch. The top pin that has nothing booked to it, that's where if I hook the black wire. It illuminates the switch. But because it stays on always I do not have hooked up. I'm afraid that it will drain the battery if I don't use my truck for a looooong time.


And this is the BlueSea fuse box




I don't see how it makes a difference if I hooked it up straight to the battery and kept their in-line fuse. The BlueSea fuse box is nice because it eliminates all the cluster and the fuses are easy to access.

So, any idea on how to illuminate the switch but only on ignition ?and have it fused to the BlueSea fuse box ?

 

[TheDurk]

Your description is pretty much meaning less. Colors are useless, I need to know what the wire connects to on the relay (30,85,86,87) and where it goes after that to give you exact instructions.

But, simply put, the switch is two separate circuits with a common ground terminal. One is the switch and the other is the switch illumination. If you want the illumination to behave a certain way, you need to connect its power lead to a source that behaves that way. Since I gather the lights are wired to come on at any time, then you need to find a different key-on power source on the Blue Seas and wire that to the empty terminal on the switch.

 

[kolelt]

Ok, I'll have to look at the relay and give you those #. It seems as if though everyone is connecting the auxiliary fuse boxes directly to the battery. I don't mind that the lights come on at anytime. Just the illumination is whats killing me ! I'll post back once the weather clears up.

I'm about to order this
Universal Relay Fuse Auxiliary Distribution Box Jeep Cooper Bussmann Off Road | eBay

And have a much cleaner set up.

 

[kolelt]

When it comes to relays and shit. I'm clueless on how to make it work properly. If I get this bussmann , can I run both of my lights to this fuse box, and make the switches illuminate ?

 

[CAMELPRO]

I believe you're overthinking this. You probably don't need to add anything. It sounds like your only problem is the "illumination" wire. You need to figure out which wire this is (coming off the back of the switch) and tie it into an "ignition" power source, such as your cig lighter, wipers, seat heaters, etc. As of now, this wire is tied to constant power.

Do you have the wiring diagram for the aftermarket switches?

 

[IBallEngineer]

I currently have the WHITE, and BLUE hooked up to it. This makes the light go ON and OFF. But if I hook up the 3rd BLACK wire to the last top pin on the button. It illuminates the button but it stays lit green at all times. How do I make it so it's not lit at all times. And only on ignition. And still keep it wired to the BlueSea fuse box ?

Am I missing something ? i don't understand.









This is the back part of the light switch. The top pin that has nothing booked to it, that's where if I hook the black wire. It illuminates the switch. But because it stays on always I do not have hooked up. I'm afraid that it will drain the battery if I don't use my truck for a looooong time.





I don't see how it makes a difference if I hooked it up straight to the battery and kept their in-line fuse. The BlueSea fuse box is nice because it eliminates all the cluster and the fuses are easy to access.

So, any idea on how to illuminate the switch but only on ignition ?and have it fused to the BlueSea fuse box ?

Not knowing the switch you are using, and how it's wired. I'll recommend this first. Kind of simplistic, but should be tried.

Have you tried inverting the white and blue wires on the switch? Seems to me one of those wires is hot and the other is the trigger to the relay, when you turn the switch "on" they are connected and turn on the lights. The terminal you connected the black wire to is permanently connected to ONE of those two terminals that do the switching, and not to the other. Just swap blue and white and see.

That's all I got with the limited info!

hoto:

EDIT, I just noticed your second switch has different colors, why? Make sure you match both switches in the positioning of hot. load and ground.

 

[GGFerrier]

I believe it's your switches. They don't have a separate illuminated +/-

I think you need one like this...

 

[kolelt]

I believe it's your switches. They don't have a separate illuminated +/-

I think you need one like this...

I think sir you are right.

I've tried switching the blue and white. And it does the same. The reason the other switch has different colors because I needed to extend the wires all the way from the back. I think I'm just save my self a headache and buy a PROPER switch

 

[BrianSD_42]

Also buy a multimeter dude. Even a cheap one at $20 is better than none.