Lighting mod for constant gauge lamps

Sarge

New member
I like the 4Runner - really like it a lot.

BUT - those stock gauges buried down inside the tunnel-like bezels doesn't work for an older guy with a bad eye issue, I'm slowly going blind and either have to run the headlights constantly or use an app on my phone to be able to read the actual speed. Hate not being able to see the gauges - pathetic design on Toyota's part.

I know the '03 has the issue of the Auto Headlamps feature dimming the lights down and taking away the dimmer control. There is a bypass fix for this, but I want something different - I want those gauge lamps on any time the engine is running. This would be more like the display system in my '14 Dodge Ram Big Horn - which is far easier to see the gauges for me. I need those gauges lit fully any time I'm driving and retain the stock dimmer control for long drives at night. Light sensitivity is a big problem, especially when there is snow on the ground or any bright background and a dim foreground object - like those gauges.

There has to be a way around the stock system's power circuits somewhere in the plethora of wiring harnesses and relays. Can anyone figure out how to supply that dimmer switch circuit at full power when the ignition is in the run position?

Sarge
 
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Yes, I'm sure there is a way. The wiring diagrams are readily available in the dark corners of the internet and would make it quite simple with basic electronics knowledge.

you-have-the-power.jpg
 
I have the diagrams in pdf, as well as the factory book. So far, my knowledge of electronics is limited and the way the manual is laid out I haven't been able to make heads or tails out of it. Seems the way this gauge lamp system works is through a relay/controller that is shutting off the lamps when the auto system is active, but I can't tell where. Getting it to run the gauge lamps when the engine is running is not an easy task the way everything is tied together and I don't want unintended consequences. Went through that already with the map light/dome light mod and had to incorporate 2 diodes to correct it - now the lights time out much faster than they should, probably due to a feedback load.

Sarge
 
This may not be what you want to hear, but why not just run your headlights all the time?

Honestly, I run my headlights and fogs almost all of the time anyways. I don't like not having lights on my car even during the daytime. Anything that increases the visibility of my vehicle to other drivers is a good thing. More lights = more visibility. This fixes your problem without having to splice into and mess with the OEM harness.

If something simple fixes your problem why complicate it?
 
Might be possible. Luckily we have the same year and I do have the factory electrical wiring diagram book, give me a few days...
 
Mine are on all the time, not sure which mod did that though lol. Maybe I can do some digging and find out.

I can also brighten it up some with an led readout job. Make your orange white, can dim it really low as well.
 
My solution has been to run the headlights when driving so far. Yeah, it works, but it also leaves you open to leaving them on and draining the battery. You cannot use the Auto feature - it will dim the lights through the light sensor and remove the dimmer's ability to turn them up brighter. That was the whole complaint behind the bulletin as well as the gauges being so dark during daylight hours.

The jobs I work on requiring me at times to hop from one location to the next - very quickly. So, I'm in and out a lot and in quite a hurry. I don't need a dead battery or really have to turn on the headlight switch every time I drive this dumb thing. The old Land Cruiser was perfect for this type of work and I could dive it into any ditch to park it without an issue getting it back out and down to another location. Most jobs are out on the highways and we move around so much it's crazy - sometimes 20+ times per day.

The link to the TSB is dead for whatever reason - I'd love to see it if someone has downloaded the file and saved it. I've gone through the factory service manual until I couldn't take it anymore looking for an alternative - but no luck. I'd really prefer to just keep the amber colored gauge lighting since that is easier on the eyes versus the white and the blue is absolutely out of the question. Any light color above 3500K gives me an instant migraine, so I have to avoid those common market leds that are around 6000K in color. I'm only 54, but the neuro-ophthalmologist says I have around 10-15yrs left before I'll need transplants. In the meantime, trying to finish my hours so I can retire - not much else for options the way things are working out.

I appreciate any help with this and I'm sure it would help others as well. I find it pretty odd that the needles in the speedometer and the tachometer are lit whenever the thing is running but they left the background lighting off. About all I see is those 2 red pointers during the day - very odd.

Hoping someone can figure it out - @Ed C, others will chime back in. Really tempted to hit up a local dealer and inquire about the TSB, but the 2 in our area are about as good to deal with as a GM dealer - not much hope there.

Sarge
 
I did some snooping. Apparently this was a common complaint with the 2003's. For 2004 and beyond, the instrument cluster is perpetually backlit.
Regarding leaving the headlights in the "on" position, I think we have the same truck (03 V8 LTD) and if I leave the switch in the "ON" position, they will go off after the key is removed and doors are locked using the remote.


As for the TSB, I found this elsewhere...

-----------------------------------------
Note: This one has two sub links

Instruments - Difficult to Read
Information
Instruments - Difficult to Read
Repair Procedure

#1
ELECTRICAL EL010-03

June 20, 2003

Title: GAUGE VISIBILITY IMPROVEMENT

Models: '03 4Runner

Introduction

Some customers may complain that the speedometer numbers are difficult to read in certain lighting conditions on 2003 model year 4Runner vehicles. The following procedure was developed to improve instrumentation visibility.

NOTE: Before performing any work explain the following to the customer:

  • The instrument lights will illuminate every time the ignition switch is turned to the "on" position or when the engine is started.
  • A/T shift indicator lamps will be slightly dimmer than before the procedure.

Applicable Vehicles: 2003 model year 4Runner vehicles.

Required Tools & Material

NOTE: AMP wire crimping tool may be ordered by calling SPX/OTC at 1-800-933-8335.

Warranty Information - Applicable warranty:

This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.

* Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer's specific complaint.

#2
Repair Procedure Notes

1. Remove the driver's side scuff plate, kick panel and lower instrument finish panel sub-assembly.

2. Remove instrument cluster finish panel sub-assembly.

A. Disengage the seven clips.​

B. Disconnect the two connectors and remove the instrument cluster finish panel sub-assembly.​

3. Remove combination meter assembly.

A. Remove the three screws.​

B. Loosen the two bolts indicated by the arrows and remove the combination meter assembly.​

4. Prepare wire harness.

A. Pull out connector C10 from the instrument panel.​

NOTE: For further vehicle wiring illustration, please see 2003 4Runner Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD), page 162, connector C10, pin 9.

HINT: TIS Search Hint: 2003 4Runner Wiring Diagram Section: System Circuit Subsection: Tail Light and Illumination.


B. Strip off the vinyl tape from the branch wire harness of the connector.​

C. Cut the green wire (connector C10, pin 9) approximately 50 mm (1.97 in.) from the connector.​

D. Strip off the vinyl tape from the blue rheostat wire harness connector R13 up to the clamp.​

NOTE: For further vehicle wiring illustration, please see 2003 4Runner Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD) page 162, connector C10, pin 9 and R13, pin 1.

E. Cut the yellow-red wire approximately 50 mm (1.97 in.) from the connector (connector R13, pin 1).​

5. Wire harness connections.

A. Connect the 50 mm (1.97 in.) strand of previously prepared wire to the yellow-red wire on the connector side of the blue rheostat wire harness (connector R13, pin 1).​

a. Strip 8 to 11 mm (0.31 to 0.43 in.) of wire insulation from the ends of both the yellow-red wire on the connector side of blue rheostat wire harness and from the end of the previously prepared 50 mm (1.97 in.) strand of wire.​

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the wire when stripping off the insulation. Visually inspect the wire. If there is any damage, perform the operation again.

b. Insert the two stripped wire ends into the sleeve so that they overlap.​

NOTE: The stripped area of both wires being spliced must overlap completely in the crimp section.

NOTE: Do not insert insulated portions of the wire into the sleeve to be crimped.


C. Place the sleeve into the corresponding color of the crimping tool jaws (P/N AMP47100-1 or equivalent).​

d. With the center of the sleeve correctly centered between the crimping jaws of the tool, squeeze the crimping tool handles until both halves make contact at the position marked by arrows.​

HINT: Check that the sleeve and wires are in the correct position before closing the crimping tool with steady pressure.

e. Pull on the joined wires to ensure that they are joined firmly in the sleeve.​

f. Crimp both ends of the sleeve with the crimping tool at the "INS" position.
g. Prepare approximately 100 mm (3.94 in.) of silicon tape (P/N 3M 06165 or equivalent).​

h. Stretch the silicone tape until its width becomes approximately half.​

HINT: If the adhesive surfaces of the silicone tape contact each other, they will adhere together and separating them will degrade the adhesive qualities of the tape. Thus, do not remove the tape backing until ready to apply.

HINT: Prevent oil, dust etc. from contaminating the adhesive surface of the tape.


i. Remove the backing from the prepared piece of silicone tape and apply approximately 20 mm (0.79 in.) from the end of the sleeve wrapping the tape around the wire three or more times while stretching the tape.​

HINT: Before beginning the operation, thoroughly wipe grease and dirt from the sections to be joined.

j. Wrap the silicone tape toward the sleeve.​

NOTE: Overlap tape about half width while keeping the tape stretched.

NOTE: Be careful not to tear the tape on the sharp edge of the sleeve.


k. Firmly wrap the tape approximately 20 mm (0.79 in.) past the opposite end of the sleeve, then wrap the tape back towards the starting point and securely finish wrapping the tape at approximately the center of the sleeve.​

B. Connect the 800 mm (31.5 in.) strand of previously prepared wire harness to the green wire in the connector side of the right hand connector (connector C10, pin 9) by following previous steps "a" through "k".​

C. In the same manner, connect the other end of the 800 mm (31.5 in.) previously prepared wire and the 50 mm (1.97 in.) previously prepared wire (previously joined to the yellow-red wire of the blue rheostat connector R13, pin 1) to the cut yellow-red wire on the vehicle side.​

D. Wrap vinyl tape around the meter connector wire and the rheostat connector wire respectively.​

NOTE: Overlap tape approximately half width.

E. Affix the 800 mm (31.5 in.) of jumper wire to the vehicle wire harness at 2 or 3 points with vinyl tape.​

6. Re-install components removed in steps 1 through 3 in reverse order.
 
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EUREKA !!!!
I was doing some hunting myself and could not find that TSB from searching. A lot of mention of it, but all the links were to the Toyopart listing that was obsolete and removed - THANK YOU!
At one time, when I first researched this I had seen this bulletin - thought I had saved it but the thing did not download as I wanted. I always keep a vehicle folder on the computer with all related files in pdf form for future reference. It also allows me to load those into my phone or a memory card to show it to someone else or share it - I will save this page somehow.

If I understand this TSB correctly, the ends of the 31.5" jumper wire just connect the green supply wire to the cluster and into the power supply side yellow/red wire - but not cutting out those circuits, leaving those active? More or less, it's just jumping power into the cluster from the ignition switched power side to make the instrument lamps work whenever the key is in the run position?

I swore somewhere I had read and seen photos of this dealer TSB mod, but for the life of me can't find it now. At least armed with the right TSB, and page/info from the harness book I can get in there and fix this once and for all - just as the factory intended.


Can't thank you enough - this is exactly what I was looking for.

Sarge
 
Wow - looked up your username and found a comment from the wallet key post about what I had said about my bean box being run over (it happens) by a dump truck. The light bulb went off, finally - thanks for the help, Murph. Guess I need some memory help, should have remembered you have a 4Runner - could have "phoned a friend" , lol.

Sarge
 
Wow - looked up your username and found a comment from the wallet key post about what I had said about my bean box being run over (it happens) by a dump truck. The light bulb went off, finally - thanks for the help, Murph. Guess I need some memory help, should have remembered you have a 4Runner - could have "phoned a friend" , lol.

Sarge

I was wondering when it would click -- After all the mentoring and wrenching and expertise you shared with me over the years, I'm glad to finally give a tiny something back! Let me know if you want to do a wrenching day and take care of this if you need an extra set of hands.

Speaking of which, keep an eye on your mailbox... there's something headed your way.
 
Yeah - I know, landed on my lid once too often. You'll get a kick out of this - my daughter wants this 4Runner, BAD. I should put a cheap set of tiger striped seat covers on it and take her for a ride, lol...she has 4 kids now and a worn out Dodge minivan.

God forbid - do I really want to know what's coming in the mail? Sounds like another project starting...

Sarge
 
I did some snooping. Apparently this was a common complaint with the 2003's. For 2004 and beyond, the instrument cluster is perpetually backlit.
Regarding leaving the headlights in the "on" position, I think we have the same truck (03 V8 LTD) and if I leave the switch in the "ON" position, they will go off after the key is removed and doors are locked using the remote.

I was going to say the same thing.
 
A constant on system is a better solution for visibility. Even in daylight with the headlights on - the gauges are quite dimly lit, mostly due to the brighter background light from the outdoors. I have discovered that leaving the sunroof shade open does help a little, but at times makes it worse depending upon the angle of the sun, etc.

One thing I'm also curious about - the Limited's illuminated gauge needles.

When the headlights are off during daylight hours, the needles are very well lit. Turn on the headlights, those needles dim quite a lot - wondering if the constant on modification is going to change that or not?

As soon as I can get it into the shop, we'll get the mod done and I'll try to document the whole thing. Still trying to learn how to post pics here, not much luck so far with the file size limits.

Sarge
 
Sarge, sorry to hear of your eye woes. I'm an office manager at my father surgical practice (Ophthalmologist), I now too well about the subject.

DIY MOD: Dashboard light always on and dimmer still works. Applies to 03's

I see that you commented on the link above. HAve you tried installing a Chrome extension named photobucket fix (or something like that). Anyway, I got to see the pics again. I can see the pics just fine, but for many you can't. I'll post the pic on GShadows thread and make it useful again........ and I 100% agree, when you turn on your parking or headlights, the dash cluster dims and there is now way to turn them back to FULL BRIGHTNESS. I hate that.

Good Luck!

EDIT: link has been updated for visible pictures. Enjoy guys!
 
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Sarge, sorry to hear of your eye woes. I'm an office manager at my father surgical practice (Ophthalmologist), I now too well about the subject.

DIY MOD: Dashboard light always on and dimmer still works. Applies to 03's

I see that you commented on the link above. HAve you tried installing a Chrome extension named photobucket fix (or something like that). Anyway, I got to see the pics again. I can see the pics just fine, but for many you can't. I'll post the pic on GShadows thread and make it useful again........ and I 100% agree, when you turn on your parking or headlights, the dash cluster dims and there is now way to turn them back to FULL BRIGHTNESS. I hate that.

Good Luck!

EDIT: link has been updated for visible pictures. Enjoy guys!

Just an FYI the extension for Photo Bucket photos to show up is called..."Photobucket Hotlink Fix"

Photobucket Hotlink Fix - Chrome Web Store
 
I don't run Chrome, but thanks for fixing the pictures and yes, they do show up now, albeit pretty small. Photobucket's managers should be shot/hung/tarred/feathered for what they've done holding pictures hostage and the number of forums they have ruined as a result.

Looking at your mod and the one from the Toyota TSB, they are quite similar except for the diodes.
What feedback are the diodes preventing here and the reason for them? I suspect the factory TSB mod may have a reduced voltage to the gauge lights, or at least not provide the full daylight brightness needed - haven't dug far enough into the wiring diagrams yet to figure that part out. For myself, as well as others - I'd like to know the details and/or benefits and drawbacks of the two mods and the differences between them.

AUSeeker - the issue with my eyes is both orbits are badly stretched out of round. Instead of being a basic ball with a bump at the front lens, mine are stretched into long, egg-shaped orbits that put a lot of pressure on the brain. This also has caused the cornea to stretch and render parts of it dead - leading to blind spots. There is no repair for this and it is not known what causes it - only a handful of cases are found. The only fix is transplanting when they go completely out. How long it will take for that to happen varies, but generally within 20yrs from what I'm told. I went through 4 neuro-ophthalmologists before I got an answer to the odd blind spots and problems with light. Needless to say - my eyeglasses have a really crazy prescription, and they are not cheap by any stretch, last pair was almost $900.
There is one bonus to having this - I can take my glasses off and look very closely at incredibly tiny objects and actually focus where most people can't without a magnifier, lol.

This is the whole issue with those gauge lamps - background light through the windshield and side windows make it impossible to see those gauges, they must be lit during the daytime at full brightness.

Sarge
 
This is the whole issue with those gauge lamps - background light through the windshield and side windows make it impossible to see those gauges, they must be lit during the daytime at full brightness.

Sarge,

Just a thought... it looks like the instrument cluster has to come out for this mod (haven't seen the photos, but the instructions made me think it does come out) I wonder if its possible to swap the bulbs for something bigger & brighter in addition to the modification?

The daughter wants the 4Runner? She'll need one with the 3rd row of seats!
 
Yes, the cluster pod has to come out - the wiring mod in the TSB is all behind that pod in the cluster of plugs back in the dash frame.

Brighter lamps may help or may become a glare problem at night. I don't mind the amber color, actually, I like it as its something different. There are plenty of threads about changing out the leds in the gauges - it is not a very easy job as they are soldered into the cluster.

Sarge
 

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