Literally Stranded in Mexico... electrical problemo

"on" not "crank".

Ok, jumped the two and the starter turns over.

Allright, at least you won't be changing a starter! Now, let's confirm one of the other 2 terminals is absolutely grounded. Do you know how? Also, is the 11.75 volts at a terminal not involved in the cranking?
 
Allright, at least you won't be changing a starter! Now, let's confirm one of the other 2 terminals is absolutely grounded. Do you know how? Also, is the 11.75 volts at a terminal not involved in the cranking?

The 11.75 is the one that reads when the key is turned to 'on'.
So- starter jumped, which is good, now need a few mins to see if there's a good ground.
 
Allright, at least you won't be changing a starter! Now, let's confirm one of the other 2 terminals is absolutely grounded. Do you know how? Also, is the 11.75 volts at a terminal not involved in the cranking?

OK- tell me how to do this right re. wether the ground is good...
 
OK- tell me how to do this right re. wether the ground is good...

Using your voltmeter, connect one end to the Bat + and the other to the terminal in question, a good ground will give you battery voltage. Or if you use the Ohmmeter, you can connect one end to the bat - and one to the terminal. You should have 0 Ohms resistance, or close to it.
 
Nothing to add other than I think its awesome that you so willing to assist someone in need. This is why I love these forums. People very willing to help each other. Now get back to troubleshooting!
 
If the battery voltage is 12.5V and the terminal on the starter relay is reading 11.7, then there's a problem with the connection between the two. They should read the same. Something is going on with the power to the distribution block. Again, check the wires coming off the battery terminals. Especially the + side where there are two wires. One goes directly to the start and the other goes to the distribution block that powers everything else.
 
If the battery voltage is 12.5V and the terminal on the starter relay is reading 11.7, then there's a problem with the connection between the two. They should read the same. Something is going on with the power to the distribution block. Again, check the wires coming off the battery terminals. Especially the + side where there are two wires. One goes directly to the start and the other goes to the distribution block that powers everything else.

Please entire post carefully before posting so as not to confuse him, please.
 
Using your voltmeter, connect one end to the Bat + and the other to the terminal in question, a good ground will give you battery voltage. Or if you use the Ohmmeter, you can connect one end to the bat - and one to the terminal. You should have 0 Ohms resistance, or close to it.

note to self- brush up on electrical theory.

Ok- terminal closest to engine is appears to be a good ground.
 
Battery 12.76

Got it. It's under the plastic cover with the fuses. Same reading 12.74

The one that gets hot when the key is 'on' is reading 11.75 volts

Please entire post carefully before posting so as not to confuse him, please.

Looks to me as if there's a 1V drop coming somewhere between the terminal block and the starter relay. Everything on the hot side should read the same voltage unless the starter is engaged. Am I missing something?
 
How many miles on the truck? sounds like bad starter contacts, super cheap and easily available. Have they ever been replaced. If it doesnt work 10-20 times then springs to life id bet money its the starter contacts/solenoid or something to do with starter wiring...

Try tapping the starter with hammer or stick through the passenger wheel well before/while turning the key and see if that gets things going reliably. Firm taps!
 
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note to self- brush up on electrical theory.

Ok- terminal closest to engine is appears to be a good ground.

Allright, is the terminal opposite the ground the one with low voltage? I'd like you to check voltage there with the key in the "crank" position. Do you have a helper?
 
Ok, popped out the relay and measure the terminal closest to the firewall, and it reads the same voltage. Now 12.73

[MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION] yes you are missing something. I haven't identified what terminal has low voltage. If he has 12.73 with the key off, it's not in the area you described. Not busting your chops, I just don't want to confuse him. He's in a 3rd world country broken down. I appreciate your help.
 
Allright, let's go to the fuse block at the driver's side knee area. Look for the 7.5 amp STA fuse. With out removing it, check voltage at both sides with the key off, on, and crank positions.

No STA but there's a IGN and it's reading 1.75 volts with the fuse in
 
How many miles on the truck? sounds like bad starter contacts, super cheap and easily available. Have they ever been replaced. If it doesnt work 10-20 times then springs to life id bet money its the starter contacts/solenoid or something to do with starter wiring...

Try tapping the starter with hammer or stick through the passenger wheel well before/while turning the key and see if that gets things going reliably. Firm taps!

Use to have a vw that did that, and carried a hammer around for years! This isn't a stuck solenoid. Could be wiring to/from starter though and I'm trying to troubleshoot that with IBALLENGINEER...
 

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