Lock tumblers sticking all 3 doors

jimmyrecluse

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Turning to the left to unlock the drivers or passenger door works. Neither will turn to the right consistently to lock the doors. The passenger side might allow me to turn the the right to lock the door 1 out of 100 tries

The same goes with the hatch. Sometimes I can only turn it to the right to lock, but never to the left and usually it's stuck both left and right

I will check for a key fobs system today but when I bought the car it only came with the oem factory, physical, keys
 
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Not sure of your year but if you have an older model without the chip you can bring your vin number to the dealer and they can make you a correct,new set of keys for cheap. Because it affects all your locks either your key isn't quite right or somebody squirted something in all the locks to "lubricate" it. Most likely is somebody made a poor copy of the original key
 
You can use graphite lubricant to get the tumblers moving again. This is something the locksmiths use on sticking door locks, and it works great. This comes in a little squeeze bottle, and you can squeeze some in the tumblers and put some on the key itself. It may take a little work to get them moving again, but it'll do the trick.

Mike
 
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Just picked up a 3rd Gen and the original key works fine in the ignition but doesn’t work great on the tumblers in the doors either. It did however come with a non chipped key that was obviously cut when close to new and it is visibly less worn than my ignition key and works perfectly to unlock and lock all the doors. I’ve just kept on my ring for that reason. I’d also suggest getting a new chipped key cut.
 
Mike has the solution. Graphite your locks once or twice a year and your rarely if ever have a lock cylinder issue. :)

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You can get the dealer to punch you a new key from your vin.
Can also pull your tumblers out and clean and re-grease them. If you pull them out you can pull and replace the split tumblers with one piece tumblers since I heard those can get really stuck with your key still in the lock. My locks were like yours, all the grease in the lock cylinders got really thick and gunky, I pulled them all apart, cleaned, re-greased them. I also wrote down my key/tumbler sequence/number down. I plan on pulling some spare locks out of the junkyard and replacing my split tumblers, they were far more worn than the 1 piece tumblers were.

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After looking at those pics, I have to say, that looks like a lot of work. I definitely wouldn't go that route myself without a fully functional replacement by my side. I need an escape route - LOL.
 
I had new keys made off the key code for each of the three 4Runners. Then I flushed the locks with brake cleaner and relubed them.

The 97 puppy hauler required pulling the drivers door lock completely apart because the tumblers were full of road grime. It was easy taking the lock apart.


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After looking at those pics, I have to say, that looks like a lot of work. I definitely wouldn't go that route myself without a fully functional replacement by my side. I need an escape route - LOL.

Wasn't that bad, only thing you can really break is the tumbler springs or the metal cylinder cap when you pry at the tabs. You can re-key if you knew the sequence of a new key or have certain doors, glove box, or ignition keyed differently for whatever reason.

qDI4uNr.jpg
 
I have one tailgate one frozen from previous owner. Being it probably hasn't worked ot moved in 10 years. I was just thinking of replacing it as I have the key codes. Maybe I pull it out and clean it as I have serveral cylinder sets not in use that I can pull pieces from :) Thanks for the tips. :)

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I've been dealing with something similar with my 98. My driver door lock won't turn either way. I took the lock cylinder to a locksmith who lubed it up, but it didn't last long, and I just recently got a new key made from the VIN. I'm going to try the locksmith again and see if that lasts a little longer this time around, and then just buy a new lock cylinder if I have to. There's no way I have the patience or discipline to take the entire cylinder apart and put it back together correctly.
 
Looks like it was the key. I dug out my "spare" and threw some of that graphite lubricant in and it works perfectly both ways
 
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Wasn't that bad, only thing you can really break is the tumbler springs or the metal cylinder cap when you pry at the tabs. You can re-key if you knew the sequence of a new key or have certain doors, glove box, or ignition keyed differently for whatever reason.

qDI4uNr.jpg


I thought I had mine repair documented on my 97 Puppy Hauler but it’s not there.


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