locker

Ok here is a simple run down

Aussie, Loc-Rite, Spartan all nice affordable lunch box lockers, full time
Detroit- very strong, full time but need to reset your gears since you are replacing the carrier
E-Locker- nice but will have to mod your axle housing to retrofit. Expensive but good and also selectable( can turn on and off) Inchworm 4.88 $1524 ECGS only sells without motor $620 plus motor($$$$). Then you will still have to wire($120) and modify housing labor involved cutting grinding welding.

ARB- selectable like the E-locker requires a compressor and also resetting gears like the detroit. built 3rd ECGS 4.88 ARB $1435, Inchworm 4.88 $1230 need compressor($250) and can more than likely install and plumb yourself.

End up being about the same price with the E-locker(unless already equipped in which we wouldnt be asking what locker to get) being slightly more expensive. Plus if you spend $400 on the air source you can get the VIAR 100% duty cycle compressor with a 2.5 gallon tank. This will give you the air to run lockers and also air tools and fill tires. Even if you go with basic ARB compressor you can still air up your tires.
 
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the kid said:
are you for real!? i personally like the lincoln locker, they are the best and totally 100% customizable you can set them up just how you want, looking back on it sometimes i wish id of gone this route
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a locker means it can be unlocked, locked-unlocked...locker, like an arb, or factory e-locker. A spool is exactly a spool, not designed for the street
 
kaceman said:
a locker means it can be unlocked, locked-unlocked...locker, like an arb, or factory e-locker. A spool is exactly a spool, not designed for the street
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I disagree. A locker is a device that locks both sides of the axle together to aid traction and further movement in the direction of travel. Detroit locker, spool and Lincoln were around long before E-lockers, Ox-lockers and ARB air lockers. Now the best all around lockers would be a selectable however they are not always in budget. I know people that have been running spools/ Lincoln lockers in their Hot Rods for decades and also their 4 wheelers and use them on the street for daily driver.
 
I too desire a Locker!!

I got lucky to find a manual 4x4 but no locker...

I really dont like the idea of plumbing in air lines ( as I just repalced both rear seals due to a bad breather)... I would imagine compressed air leaking into the diff would suck.

Any chance there is an ox locker or manual locker available for our trucks?

I was thinking aussi was the way to go before but ever since i spun my truck on the highway going 100kph with it unlocked i could see how a locked truck in snow would be very very bad. (... there was a wrx who spun out and wrote off his car right behind me on black ice) I managed to fish tale it and just bumped the side of the rear bumper ...thank god for off road bumpers.
 
Pikeman said:
Ok here is a simple run down

Aussie, Loc-Rite, Spartan all nice affordable lunch box lockers, full time
Detroit- very strong, full time but need to reset your gears since you are replacing the carrier
E-Locker- nice but will have to mod your axle housing to retrofit. Expensive but good and also selectable( can turn on and off)

ARB- selectable like the E-locker requires a compressor and also resetting gears like the detroit. More expensive than the e-locker, but stronger. Probably only worth it if you rock crawl alot.
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Corrected it for you Pikeman, you forgot one minor detail...

This is of course assuming that you don't already have on board air, though even then it is probably still more expensive than you could get a used e-locker for.
 
Nelson I corrected my post with facts based on buying a complete 3rd.You also forgot to consider the large amount of labor involved to modify the housing to retrofit the E-locker housing into a non E-locker axle. Most of which cannot be done by your average DIYer which adds cost.
 
Pikeman said:
Nelson I corrected my post with facts based on buying a complete 3rd.You also forgot to consider the large amount of labor involved to modify the housing to retrofit the E-locker housing into a non E-locker axle. Most of which cannot be done by your average DIYer which adds cost.
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Yeah, but with the factory e-locker you have the option of going used, which is way cheaper the ARB. And if you don't want to do the housing modifications, then you can pick up a full locked axle assembly. It may be a bit tough to find, but I managed it (though I was just looking to replace my locked axle assembly). you would still have to figure out the wiring.

Based on the prices I got, and what you have given for wiring, the total cost for a used e-locker would be about $850-900 (that includes shipping the axle housing across the country), $600 less than the ARB. you could get the assembly cheaper from a yard too if you aren't in the rust belt. I certainly would never go all new for adding an e-locker.

In the end, it is definitely cheaper than an ARB if you go used, it just will take some time and effort. How available are used ARB's? I have never seen one for sale, but if we want to compare new/new and used/used, we'd need a price to compare to.
 
The cheapest I have found a used complete E-locker axle assembly at a yard is $1000. Even then most would want to re-gear bringing the price back up. You can find a stock used e-locker 3rd for $400-600 again possible re-gear costs and axle housing modification costs. Are there lower prices on occasion making it to cheap to pass up of course. You wont find ARB lockers used because people don't get rid of them plain and simple. That is why I only compared new to new. Not arguing that you can occasionally do the E-locker for cheaper but for the most part they are relatively same or comparable price.
 
Not to brag but this thread is making me pretty f'n happy with my stock e-Locker.

I think if I complemented it with onboard air to make for easy air-downs then I would be set for the medium trails.
 
LOL you guys took a fun flame Thread and ruined it with actual tech. since you've gone and done that, don't forget the yukon zip locker which seems to be a knockoff of ARB but is available for about 650 plus gearing and air so a couple of hundred less than an arb and they seem to be holding up pretty well from what I hear. Also for our runners it is nice to be able to put an air locker in both front and rear which cant be done with a elocker unless you SAS.
 
brianemc2_42 said:
Not to brag but this thread is making me pretty f'n happy with my stock e-Locker.

I think if I complemented it with onboard air to make for easy air-downs then I would be set for the medium trails.
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your runner is already more than capable to do Med/hard trails with your suspension, tires and E-Locker. You should be able to do everything but hard to hardcore trails. Don't fear the dent, it adds character:hungry:
 
Pikeman said:
You wont find ARB lockers used because people don't get rid of them plain and simple. That is why I only compared new to new. Not arguing that you can occasionally do the E-locker for cheaper but for the most part they are relatively same or comparable price.
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not true, i got my ARB used... from a guy here on the forum too, and im only in it ~$600 including shipping, the compressor and air lines ect. just keep your eyes open and when you come across one dont even blink or it will be gone, you have to jump and have cash in hand(or in paypal)
 
C C said:
Well if people don't like your prices and you still haven't sold it chances are you didn't like their offers hahah what are you looking to get for it I'm sure you have a certain price in mind that you won't go under
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1,000 for complete rear end w/locker?!?!?! am I insane???
 
Pikeman said:
The cheapest I have found a used complete E-locker axle assembly at a yard is $1000. Even then most would want to re-gear bringing the price back up. You can find a stock used e-locker 3rd for $400-600 again possible re-gear costs and axle housing modification costs. Are there lower prices on occasion making it to cheap to pass up of course.
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I agree. And since most elocked 4runners have 4.30 gears and most non-elocked 4runners are 4.10s, you run into other problems. You'd have to either..
Regear the front then to 4.30..
Regear the new retro-fitted elocked 3rd (or complete axle assembly) to 4.10..
Regear both diffs to whatever ratio you want..
Get an easier to find 4.10 elocker 3rd out of a Taco and do the retro-fit..
Or, be lucky enough to find a complete elocked 4.10 4runner axle (but then still have 4.10s which suck for 33s)..
None are very cheap options. That's the main reason I went with ARBs. The whole elocker thing was just too much hassle and I wanted 4.88s anyways.

Pikeman said:
You wont find ARB lockers used because people don't get rid of them plain and simple. That is why I only compared new to new. Not arguing that you can occasionally do the E-locker for cheaper but for the most part they are relatively same or comparable price.
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Yeah, I agree. The only reason I would probably ever sell my ARBs is if I threw different axles under my truck someday. I had some installation errors that had to be sorted out, but the lockers have always worked flawlessly.
 
brian2sun said:
I agree. And since most elocked 4runners have 4.30 gears and most non-elocked 4runners are 4.10s, you run into other problems. You'd have to either..
Regear the front then to 4.30..
Regear the new retro-fitted elocked 3rd (or complete axle assembly) to 4.10..
Regear both diffs to whatever ratio you want..
Get an easier to find 4.10 elocker 3rd out of a Taco and do the retro-fit..
Or, be lucky enough to find a complete elocked 4.10 4runner axle (but then still have 4.10s which suck for 33s)..
None are very cheap options. That's the main reason I went with ARBs. The whole elocker thing was just too much hassle and I wanted 4.88s anyways.



Yeah, I agree. The only reason I would probably ever sell my ARBs is if I threw different axles under my truck someday. I had some installation errors that had to be sorted out, but the lockers have always worked flawlessly.
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I have the matching front as well!
 
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