Long Life (Pink), Super LL (Red) Coolants

ledger35

New member
Okay, Just got off the phone with the dealer. They tell me that T4R up to 2004 uses Super Long Life (Red) and T4R from 2004 to Present uses the Long Life(pink) which is also the diluted mix hence the lighter color. My concern is this, what does everyone else use in their trucks given the above information and what recommendations can you make?? I have a 2000 3.4 and I'm replacing the radiator and am undecided on the correct coolant. One thing I have considered, if I go full strength I only buy one gallon and one gallon of distilled water. If I use the pink, I would have to buy two gallons as it is already diluted but will be more expensive of a buy..
 
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Okay, Just got off the phone with the dealer. They tell me that T4R up to 2004 uses Super Long Life (Red) and T4R from 2004 to Present uses the Long Life(pink) which is also the diluted mix hence the lighter color. My concern is this, what does everyone else use in their trucks given the above information and what recommendations can you make?? I have a 2000 3.4 and I'm replacing the radiator and am undecided on the correct coolant. One thing I have considered, if I go full strength I only buy one gallon and one gallon of distilled water. If I use the pink, I would have to buy two gallons as it is already diluted but will be more expensive of a buy..

In all our toyotas (95 and 99 camry, 00 and 12 4runner, 04 sienna) we use toyota red (its the same as pink, just concentrated and cheaper) buy yourself a few gallons of red and a few gallons of distilled water and you're good to go for a few years.

EDIT: RED and PINK are not the same, and PINK has a longer change interval based off TheDurk's information.
 
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Okay, Just got off the phone with the dealer. They tell me that T4R up to 2004 uses Super Long Life (Red) and T4R from 2004 to Present uses the Long Life(pink) which is also the diluted mix hence the lighter color. My concern is this, what does everyone else use in their trucks given the above information and what recommendations can you make?? I have a 2000 3.4 and I'm replacing the radiator and am undecided on the correct coolant. One thing I have considered, if I go full strength I only buy one gallon and one gallon of distilled water. If I use the pink, I would have to buy two gallons as it is already diluted but will be more expensive of a buy..

There are going to be lots of opinions on this. The dealer is describing to you how the trucks came from the factory. What you do after that is up to you and it mainly depends on what change interval you use. Almost all anti-freeze is mostly ethylene-glycol and distilled water and as far as boil and freeze protection they are all IDENTICAL.

The differences are in the special mix of additives for corrosion protection and the color dye they stick in. First, pink is NOT just pre-diluted red as many misinformed posts state.(edit: like the one above. Sorry blizz, read the jugs.) The pink has a HOAT (hybrid organic acid) and the red is OAT (organic acid) Technology for corrosion protection. Toyota rates the red as good for 50k in new cars and the pink at up to 100k in new cars. They also have a TSB that says the pink is compatible with and fully substitutes the red. And, as you have stated, the pink is pre-diluted. Both rely on phosphate additives and do not use silicates which Asian engineers hate.

So either will work fine for 50k. I, personally, will not run coolant in an older car for more than 50k, no matter what anybody says. I like to flush with distilled water when I change, so I prefer the red so I can dump in the coolant, top off with H2O and have the correct concentration. It is hard to do this with the pre-diluted, it's always a little too weak, because of the water from the flush you can't get out. And, the red is cheaper and came new with the truck. So I run red, change every 50k and will continue to do so as long as I can get it.

My truck is almost 14 years old with 150k and cooling system has been trouble free. I have a 5-speed so I am sticking to my original radiator and it looks pristine and engine temps are perfect. I changed the water pump at 120k when I did the timing belt. It looked fine, too.

You could also run aluminum-safe green at 30k change interval or less and be just fine, too. Frequent changes make the anti-corrosion issue moot, as long as you stay away from silicates that will attack stuff inside the cooling system.

All this is just my humble opinion based on a lot of reading.
 
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There are going to be lots of opinions on this. The dealer is describing to you how the trucks came from the factory. What you do after that is up to you and it mainly depends on what change interval you use. Almost all anti-freeze is mostly ethylene-glycol and distilled water and as far as boil and freeze protection they are all IDENTICAL.

The differences are in the special mix of additives for corrosion protection and the color dye they stick in. First, pink is NOT just pre-diluted red as many misinformed posts state.(edit: like the one above. Sorry blizz, read the jugs.) The pink has a HOAT (hybrid organic acid) and the red is OAT (organic acid) Technology for corrosion protection. Toyota rates the red as good for 50k in new cars and the pink at up to 100k in new cars. They also have a TSB that says the pink is compatible with and fully substitutes the red. And, as you have stated, the pink is pre-diluted. Both rely on phosphate additives and do not use silicates which Asian engineers hate.

So either will work fine for 50k. I, personally, will not run coolant in an older car for more than 50k, no matter what anybody says. I like to flush with distilled water when I change, so I prefer the red so I can dump in the coolant, top off with H2O and have the correct concentration. It is hard to do this with the pre-diluted, it's always a little too weak, because of the water from the flush you can't get out. And, the red is cheaper and came new with the truck. So I run red, change every 50k and will continue to do so as long as I can get it.

My truck is almost 14 years old with 150k and cooling system has been trouble free. I have a 5-speed so I am sticking to my original radiator and it looks pristine and engine temps are perfect. I changed the water pump at 120k when I did the timing belt. It looked fine, too.

You could also run aluminum-safe green at 30k change interval or less and be just fine, too. Frequent changes make the anti-corrosion issue moot, as long as you stay away from silicates that will attack stuff inside the cooling system.

All this is just my humble opinion based on a lot of reading.
:l i Guess i was wrong, just going off what the people at dealerships parts stell me. I still change mine every 30k no matter the condition.
 
:l i Guess i was wrong, just going off what the people at dealerships parts stell me. I still change mine every 30k no matter the condition.

If they are like mine, they are not well-informed. (I like my guy, "Dan", he's been there since I before I bought the truck in 1999 and is always helpful. He just doesn't know much other than how to order parts.) When Toyota first switched to pink, they stopped carrying red. He swore up and down that red didn't exist anymore and pink was the only one Toyota made anymore. And that pink was just diluted red. Now they carry both, and he still thinks pink is just diluted red, even though I told him different and showed him the jug labels about six years ago when I first saw them both on the shelf together. He prefers it his way. I don't think he could even say 'phosphated hybrid organic acid technology.'
 
There are going to be lots of opinions on this. The dealer is describing to you how the trucks came from the factory. What you do after that is up to you and it mainly depends on what change interval you use. Almost all anti-freeze is mostly ethylene-glycol and distilled water and as far as boil and freeze protection they are all IDENTICAL.

The differences are in the special mix of additives for corrosion protection and the color dye they stick in. First, pink is NOT just pre-diluted red as many misinformed posts state.(edit: like the one above. Sorry blizz, read the jugs.) The pink has a HOAT (hybrid organic acid) and the red is OAT (organic acid) Technology for corrosion protection. Toyota rates the red as good for 50k in new cars and the pink at up to 100k in new cars. They also have a TSB that says the pink is compatible with and fully substitutes the red. And, as you have stated, the pink is pre-diluted. Both rely on phosphate additives and do not use silicates which Asian engineers hate.

So either will work fine for 50k. I, personally, will not run coolant in an older car for more than 50k, no matter what anybody says. I like to flush with distilled water when I change, so I prefer the red so I can dump in the coolant, top off with H2O and have the correct concentration. It is hard to do this with the pre-diluted, it's always a little too weak, because of the water from the flush you can't get out. And, the red is cheaper and came new with the truck. So I run red, change every 50k and will continue to do so as long as I can get it.

My truck is almost 14 years old with 150k and cooling system has been trouble free. I have a 5-speed so I am sticking to my original radiator and it looks pristine and engine temps are perfect. I changed the water pump at 120k when I did the timing belt. It looked fine, too.

You could also run aluminum-safe green at 30k change interval or less and be just fine, too. Frequent changes make the anti-corrosion issue moot, as long as you stay away from silicates that will attack stuff inside the cooling system.

All this is just my humble opinion based on a lot of reading.

Well Durk, after all that I am completely convinced........ I'm going full strength RED and I will mix with distilled! Thanks ALL..
 
No we don't all have red.

I have green coolant for years and years now.

Don't make the mistake of mixing green and red. Be sure to do a complete flush when changing colors.
 
I work parts at a dealer and wgoever said that is an idiot. Long life is full concentrate red super is diluted to pink buy. long life and mix with water. Takes about 2 gallons to fill it up.
 
I work parts at a dealer and wgoever said that is an idiot. Long life is full concentrate red super is diluted to pink buy. long life and mix with water. Takes about 2 gallons to fill it up.

Sigh.....

Toyota Red Long Life ingredients from jug: Ethylene Glycol(107-21-1),Diethylene Glycol(111-46-6) Water(7732-18-5) Organic Acid Salt(532-32-1) Hydrated Inorganic Salt(1310-58-3).


Toyota Super Long Life Antifreeze/coolant ( Pink ).

Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Sebacic Acid (111-20-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3).

These are not the same. Sebacic acid is what puts the super in super.

You just confirmed what I think about parts guys.
 
Sigh.....

Toyota Red Long Life ingredients from jug: Ethylene Glycol(107-21-1),Diethylene Glycol(111-46-6) Water(7732-18-5) Organic Acid Salt(532-32-1) Hydrated Inorganic Salt(1310-58-3).


Toyota Super Long Life Antifreeze/coolant ( Pink ).

Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Sebacic Acid (111-20-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3).

These are not the same. Sebacic acid is what puts the super in super.

You just confirmed what I think about parts guys.

Nah man, nah.

Before the parts guy worked parts he studied coolant abroad in Germany. Oh, nevermind, you want a Tacoma whip? He studied FM tuning for his Masters Thesis. Not coolant, mis spoke. What do you drive? He drives one too, but his is all JDM OEM MINT. He also has a TT Supra. It's his Sunday car. Oh it's Sunday? He couldn't find his keys, so he drove his Hyundai. His dad owns that dealership. Parts guys. Parts. Love them.
 
Sigh.....

Toyota Red Long Life ingredients from jug: Ethylene Glycol(107-21-1),Diethylene Glycol(111-46-6) Water(7732-18-5) Organic Acid Salt(532-32-1) Hydrated Inorganic Salt(1310-58-3).


Toyota Super Long Life Antifreeze/coolant ( Pink ).

Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Sebacic Acid (111-20-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3).

These are not the same. Sebacic acid is what puts the super in super.

You just confirmed what I think about parts guys.

When did I say they were the same? Oh wait I didn't.....I said it was "diluted" with other chemicals. And it already has water in it so there is no mixing needed. Hence the PINK color Sure its the same in the sense that you can use pink instead of red if you'd like to. It's not what is a RECOMMENDED but you can with no harm. I'm sorry I didn't pull out my jugs out coolant and list the ingredients and get all technical for the people who have no effing clue what one of those means/does. I'm sorry Duuuuurk not everyone is perfect....
 
When did I say they were the same? Oh wait I didn't.....I said it was "diluted" with other chemicals. And it already has water in it so there is no mixing needed. Hence the PINK color Sure its the same in the sense that you can use pink instead of red if you'd like to. It's not what is a RECOMMENDED but you can with no harm. I'm sorry I didn't pull out my jugs out coolant and list the ingredients and get all technical for the people who have no effing clue what one of those means/does. I'm sorry Duuuuurk not everyone is perfect....

I don't think anyone was confused on the dilution issue. So I can be forgiven for thinking your post was a challenge to my statement that they were different chemical technologies. It read that way to me. Sorry I misunderstood you, but I was afraid others might read it as I did.

Next time you write 'whoever said that is an idiot' , please quote the offending remark so we know whom you are talking about and what they said.
 
Forrest , don't take it personally. The details may help out the next guy who has less knowledge than you. TheDurk is a pretty good guy - his comments/threads helped me out plenty when I was new (02 sensors come to mind).

Tough crowd today.
 
Ahhh Noo hostility here, I didn't quote anybody because I was referring to the parts guy that mislead him. I do not doubt durks knowledge at all. Hahaha my girlfriend is always saying the way I word stuff or speak and look makes me seem angry. And yes most parts guys are complete retards. I'm lucky my work is one of the top rated Toyota parts centers in the narion with very few employees. I'm definitely learning everyday. But come on you know how hard it is to remember 15 different models over a 40 year period with changes every few years???? Haha I dont get it. But anyways OP are trucks are designed to run with long life so use that its cheaper then sllc and you only need one galling of red.
 

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