Long studs for rear-locker?

[captain_moly]

Hi All,

Argh - despite aggressive rust proofing efforts with fluid film I have a very rusty locker to rebuild. I think I may have some sort of rust curse?

I can't seem to find a part number for the two long studs which hold the locker to the rear differential. I think these are M10-1.25 thread and they're about 120mm long. A shorter threaded end threads into the diff and a longer thread accepts a nut to hold the locker in place.

Here's the prettier of my two with the nut rusted in place:

Anyone have a part number and/or a source for these?

Thanks!
-Bill
2020 TRD ORP

 

[fkheath]

Hi All,

Argh - despite aggressive rust proofing efforts with fluid film I have a very rusty locker to rebuild. I think I may have some sort of rust curse?

I can't seem to find a part number for the two long studs which hold the locker to the rear differential. I think these are M10-1.25 thread and they're about 120mm long. A shorter threaded end threads into the diff and a longer thread accepts a nut to hold the locker in place.

Here's the prettier of my two with the nut rusted in place:

Anyone have a part number and/or a source for these?

Thanks!
-Bill
2020 TRD ORP

You may be able to find an exact match at a local industrial fastener store. Usually they are only in bigger cities, but fortunately there is one where I live called Bolt and Nut Supply: Bolt & Nut Supply Co. - Fasteners, Bolts, Nuts, & Screws

If you don't have an industrial fastener store, the best online source would be McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr

To keep rust at bay, be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when you reassemble.

Or, if you can find them, high strength stainless. High strength stainless is really hard to find, since stainless is inherently weaker than good steel.

Edit: and don't let anyone tell you they don't make high strength stainless. Case in point: the early 911/930 engines were assembled with steel studs for the heads that would pull out of the threads because the steel had an expansion rate when hot that was less than the aluminum heads and cam carrier (911s were air cooled then). It was a two part solution:
- replace the threads in the crankcase with TimeSert (much stronger than helicoils)
-develop high strength stainless studs with the exact same coefficient of expansion as the aluminum. They are pricey, about $30/each!: Amazon.com I put them in my 911 2.7 engine.

 

[captain_moly]

Thanks - good suggestions! I already tried McMaster and they don't have much selection in 10x1.25. I guess it's not that common a thread pitch?

For what it's worth, those bolts are probably (?) mostly in shear -- they only get torqued to 38 ft-lbs. Stainless might be a good option.

Seems weird I can't find the part number in any of the Toyota diagrams. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.

 

[Muzzle of Bees]

The attached parts link may be helpful.
Stud Bolt #90116-10232 | Autoparts.toyota.com

 

[rdruss]

When in doubt, go to Toyota!

 

[captain_moly]

Thanks All! I'm not seeing the long studs on the Toyota diagrams (maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?) and neither of the two Toyota dealers I've contacted have gotten back to me... I'll keep digging.

 

[gordonp]

When in doubt, go to Toyota!

When in doubt, go ARP!! Titanium is stainless, and it's stronger than OEM :lol:
The Official ARP Web Site | Metric Bolts

(at the time of this posting, there seems to be 24 different lengths of M10x1.25 bolts, ranging from 20mm to 100mm UnderHead Length. Without the need for a nut like your OEM stud, it is possible the 100mm will replace the stud ~perfectly~. And 180,000 psi strength, compared to SAE Grade 8 = 150,000psi and Metric Grade 10.9 = 150,000psi (well, 1040MPa converted)