Looking at a 99, is it worth it?

johnnyd2723

New member
Since I bought my first 4Runner last October I've fallen in love with them. I'm always checkin' 'em out now. But mines too plain (96 2wd, 4cyl, no options). Yesterday I saw this dark green 99. It's loaded, has the scoop on the hood, 4wd, 102k. Without driving it, everything seemed to work but the tailgate would not open and it has a check engine light on. I'm going to go drive it after work today. They're asking 6200 for it. What do you think? Is this a good deal? What should I look for? It's on a lot so there's no point of asking the sales people anything about, they won't know. I appreciate any feedback.

:thanks:
 
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Since I bought my first 4Runner last October I've fallen in love with them. I'm always checkin' 'em out now. But mines too plain (96 2wd, 4cyl, no options). Yesterday I saw this dark green 99. It's loaded, has the scoop on the hood, 4wd, 102k. Without driving it, everything seemed to work but the tailgate would not open and it has a check engine light on. I'm going to go drive it after work today. They're asking 6200 for it. What do you think? Is this a good deal? What should I look for? It's on a lot so there's no point of asking the sales people anything about, they won't know. I appreciate any feedback.

:thanks:

Sounds reasonable. I bought all of mine with quite a few more miles for around $8K each. Tailgate sounds strange but probably fixable, CEL could indicate bad O2 sensor if I was going to guess. Take it to Autozone or somewhere and have them pull the codes for you. They can't/won't reset them but at least you'll know what they are.

If timing belt has been changed, there typically be a foil sticker on the timing belt cover with the mileage, but I'll bet it hasn't been done. That's about $800 if you have someone do it for you.

Check the general condition in the engine bay, interior, and body. If it looks abused or poorly maintained, I would think again or offer $5K.
 
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Before every vehicle I buy I do this:
- Run a Carfax on it
- Check all the fluids
- Check tires/brakes/exhaust/undercarriage/etc.
- Always ask for any maintenance records
- Look for rust
- May sound stupid but try EVERYTHING! Lights, windows, 4wd, horn, interior lights, etc. (Trust me, I have buddies who have gotten screwed b/c they automatically assume everything works- not the case all the time)

I, personally would never buy a vehicle with the check engine light on just because it could lead to a lot of problems. Ask the dealer if they'll fix whatever needs to be done and get a safety and emissions test on the vehicle so that way you know you're golden cause it passed inspection. Here in Missouri, you can't register a vehicle with a check engine light on cause it doesn't pass. Try and get 'em to fix the problem if you give them asking price
 
My tailgate quit working at one point too. It's usually an easy fix, pull the trimming off, lube the mechanism and you should be back rocking and rolling. Do what zcruiser said, have the code pulled, find out what it is and use both it and the tailgate during your negotiations. It's VERY important to know what the code is before buying! Getting pre-approved through your bank or having cash also hleps when negotiating. I'm big on negotiating! It took me six days to negotiate my wife's vehicle and four days to negotiate my 4Runner. Does Ohio have rust problems? Should check for that too and make sure it's all surface rust and not cancerous if rust problems apply to your area. Johnsd90 is good at diagnosing rust problems. Take some pictures and post them up. I'm sure he'll help you diagnose, or someone else will for sure.

With the 4wd, I can only recommend checking that it actually engages. You can go from H2 to H4 either at a stand still or moving, just be under 60 mph. Whenever you engage it, a dashboard light will come on. If you are doing it at a stand still you may need to roll forward a bit for it to engage. You may hear a slight clunk when the 4wd engages, which is normal, or you may not. As long as the dash lights up, you're good to go. To go to 4Lo, put your tranny in neutral then shift to 4lo. You may want to check my math, because I have the push button (from H2 to H4) shifter, but I think overall the concept is the same as the J shifter. Sorry if you already knew this stuff......
 
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- May sound stupid but try EVERYTHING! Lights, windows, 4wd, horn, interior lights, etc. (Trust me, I have buddies who have gotten screwed b/c they automatically assume everything works- not the case all the time)

I totally agree. Open and close all doors, check all the lights, make sure the seatbelts work.....don't let the excitement, or the possibility of the vehicle being sold to someone else, prevent you from making sure this vehicle is what you want and you knowing exactly what you are buying.
 
The flip side is... Most things can be fixed, and you'll learn something in the process. Use everything you can to get the price down and get the vehicle you want even if it's a project.

But good point - They can't sell a vehicle with a CEL. That's just wrong.
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the help.

Also in Ohio you have to have had the vehicle through the e-check or safety check before you can register it. First thing they look at is the odo and dash. If the lights on your done, automatic. They did say when I looked at it briefly yesterday that they would take care of it. He said it very nonchalantly too. I don't want them just clearing the cel and sendin' me down the road only to find a day later it comes back on. However they do have a 7500/6mo warranty so I guess that should be o.k.

Yeah, OH has just a few rust issues:lmao: Major rust issues in fact! Were in whats known as the "rust belt" My current 4Runner is nothing but rust underneath, this one looked pretty decent but ya never know whats going to break due to the rust.
 
Rust is the biggest killer for me. I would take it to a 3rd party and have it checked out for everything. We have a place in Bham that if you are buying a car from a dealer they do a complete inspection for FREE and give you all of the paperwork...that is what I did when I bought my 4runner.

Check engine lights could be something small or something not small...but definitely best to check before you buy it. 4Runners are everywhere so there will be others if this isn't the 'one'
 
Take it to Autozone or somewhere and have them pull the codes for you. They can't/won't reset them but at least you'll know what they are.

This is false now. It used to be this way but i was recently at autozone or advanced auto and i borrowed there scan tool and they asked me for my license and they handed me the unit. I asked thenm when they changed there policy she said about 6 months ago. I like the new rule though its way better now that i can clear codes.

on to the truck, sounds decent and low mileage. Drive and check for a shake/shimmy between the 55-70 mark if its there make them fix it before you buy it otherwise you will spend countless nights/money chasing it down.
 
That CEL could be anything from an $80 O2 sensor, to a $400 knock sensor, up to an engine miss that requires a $1500 valve job. I would have the codes pulled on your own to make sure you know what's wrong for yourself.

Since they are a dealer, I would make them do the timing belt/water pump (if it hasn't been done, it's past due) and take care of whatever is causing the CEL as part of the deal. Otherwise you could be throwing a lot of $$ at this truck right off the bat.

If the dealer agrees to those terms and the truck doesn't have any cancerous rust, the price is fair IMO.
 
Get that code. If it's gone, find out what it WAS. Beware the P0420. If you have a Cali '99, two new cats put in at the dealer could cost $2500. It can be done cheaper, especially illegally, but it's a pain to deal with. (Cali. cars were sold all over in '99. I bought mine in NJ.)The charcoal canister code (I forget number) can be a quick $400. And so on. Definitely run the A/C and 4WD. Certainly look at the ATF to rule out the dreaded strawberry milkshake. I have had the same truck, including color, except mine is 5spd, for 11 years and 138K. fantastic machine if cared for. Good luck.
 
Get that code. If it's gone, find out what it WAS. Beware the P0420. If you have a Cali '99, two new cats put in at the dealer could cost $2500. It can be done cheaper, especially illegally, but it's a pain to deal with. (Cali. cars were sold all over in '99. I bought mine in NJ.)The charcoal canister code (I forget number) can be a quick $400. And so on. Definitely run the A/C and 4WD. Certainly look at the ATF to rule out the dreaded strawberry milkshake. I have had the same truck, including color, except mine is 5spd, for 11 years and 138K. fantastic machine if cared for. Good luck.

Whats the deal with that? The strawberry milkshake? My 96 had that. Drained and flushed the tranny and it's been good since.

Guys, I really appreciate the input.
 
Whats the deal with that? The strawberry milkshake? My 96 had that. Drained and flushed the tranny and it's been good since.

Guys, I really appreciate the input.

Did you flush the cooling system in your '96? If not, you should. The internal tranny cooler inside the radiator ruptures and coolant mixes with ATF and the mix gets into both the cooling system and the tranny.
 
Get the tailgate fixed, too, before you buy it. I bought my 4Runner last year and the tailgate was wonky. Then it stopped working altogether. No fixing it... the innards of the handle had to be replaced and it was frickin' expensive.
b
 
used car purchase = absolutely positively tell the seller you want it checked by certified toyota technician at a toyota dealership. if they arent willing to do that then the heck with em, another runner will be available.
 
VIN: JT3HN86R0X0202358
Vehicle: 1999 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
Records: 19 records found in the CARFAX Vehicle History database


I would be curious what those 19 records show :AK47:
 
VIN: JT3HN86R0X0202358
Vehicle: 1999 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
Records: 19 records found in the CARFAX Vehicle History database


I would be curious what those 19 records show :AK47:

19 is a lot, considering my first car, a 23 year old mercedes that was totalled has only 16...

VIN: WDBCA39D0HA289855
Vehicle: 1987 MERCEDES-BENZ 560SEL
Records: 16 records found in the CARFAX Vehicle History database

check that shit, it's probably been in accidents and the like.
 
Did you flush the cooling system in your '96? If not, you should. The internal tranny cooler inside the radiator ruptures and coolant mixes with ATF and the mix gets into both the cooling system and the tranny.

No shit? So if the internal cooler ruptures that means it's going to happen again? I did flush the system a month after the tranny flush. Still looks good.

VIN: JT3HN86R0X0202358
Vehicle: 1999 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
Records: 19 records found in the CARFAX Vehicle History database


I would be curious what those 19 records show :AK47:

I saw that but I'm not sold on carfax. Are those really worth it and accurate?
 
Did you flush the cooling system in your '96? If not, you should. The internal tranny cooler inside the radiator ruptures and coolant mixes with ATF and the mix gets into both the cooling system and the tranny.

No shit? So if the internal cooler ruptures that means it's going to happen again? I did flush the system a month after the tranny flush. Still looks good.

VIN: JT3HN86R0X0202358
Vehicle: 1999 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
Records: 19 records found in the CARFAX Vehicle History database


I would be curious what those 19 records show :AK47:

I saw that but I'm not sold on carfax. Are those really worth it and accurate?




As of right now, they have a internet buyer from S.Carolina who is suppose to wire money to them by close of business today (5:00 for them on Sat). Told me to call him on Monday to verify if the transaction happened. Guess I'll see on Monday.:dammit:
 

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