So, I am in the market for a second ten 4Runner and came across one that seemed good. It has 213k miles. The dude bought it cheap and fixed it. I will now post a section directly from his ad.
THE GOOD:
- New timing belt (OEM, not the cheap one).
- New OEM idler pulley.
- New OEM hydrolic timing belt tensioner.
- New iridium plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, ignition coil, and igniter.
- Newly refurbished Mass Air Flow Sensor (professionally done).
- New air filter.
- Replaced many vacuum tubes and tested all six vacuum switches.
- Cleaned and tuned the Throttle Position Sensor (within 3 ohms!)
- New 750 amp battery, corrosion washers, and terminal clamps.
- New fuel pump and fuel filter.
- Created aluminum fuel pump access hatch below passenger rear seat for easy access.
- AC.
- Roof rack.
- Tow package.
- Full original jack kit.
- 4x4 works great.
- Suspension is solid all the way around.
- Sun roof, works great!
- Power windows, all working fine!
- All lights working fine!
- No rust!
- Uninstalled defunct dealer alarm system (was causing door lock problems ... no longer!)
- Pulled and washed all interior plastic, as well as floor mats
- Used heat gun to smooth scratched surfaces on plastic
- Used Bissel wet carpet cleaner throughout interior ... looks good!
- New beige front seat covers (not pictured).
- Re-upholstered center arm rest.
- Includes original user guide, supplement, and manual.
- Tires at ~70%.
- Solid spare (now under vehicle, not in rear cargo area as pictured).
THE BAD:
Cracked dash (as usual), small ding on front driver's quarter panel, very slow oil leak, expired registration, power locks not working (disconnected somewhere by previous owner), radio antenna doesn't go up, and radio backlight periodically works (same connection problem?), paint exhibits typical fading.
I will add that there is some minor minor rust and stains in the car. When I looked at it he surprised me when I was driving it by saying that it may need a new clutch in the next 10k miles. But, it was hard to shift (Ive never driven a truck so they may be different for cars) and would make a grinding noise when trying to shift into second from a stop with the clutch in. So my question is what would you pay for it and does it need work on the clutch, master cylinder, or slave cylinder? Also how much would this cost? I appreciate the comments!
THE GOOD:
- New timing belt (OEM, not the cheap one).
- New OEM idler pulley.
- New OEM hydrolic timing belt tensioner.
- New iridium plugs, plug wires, distributor cap/rotor, ignition coil, and igniter.
- Newly refurbished Mass Air Flow Sensor (professionally done).
- New air filter.
- Replaced many vacuum tubes and tested all six vacuum switches.
- Cleaned and tuned the Throttle Position Sensor (within 3 ohms!)
- New 750 amp battery, corrosion washers, and terminal clamps.
- New fuel pump and fuel filter.
- Created aluminum fuel pump access hatch below passenger rear seat for easy access.
- AC.
- Roof rack.
- Tow package.
- Full original jack kit.
- 4x4 works great.
- Suspension is solid all the way around.
- Sun roof, works great!
- Power windows, all working fine!
- All lights working fine!
- No rust!
- Uninstalled defunct dealer alarm system (was causing door lock problems ... no longer!)
- Pulled and washed all interior plastic, as well as floor mats
- Used heat gun to smooth scratched surfaces on plastic
- Used Bissel wet carpet cleaner throughout interior ... looks good!
- New beige front seat covers (not pictured).
- Re-upholstered center arm rest.
- Includes original user guide, supplement, and manual.
- Tires at ~70%.
- Solid spare (now under vehicle, not in rear cargo area as pictured).
THE BAD:
Cracked dash (as usual), small ding on front driver's quarter panel, very slow oil leak, expired registration, power locks not working (disconnected somewhere by previous owner), radio antenna doesn't go up, and radio backlight periodically works (same connection problem?), paint exhibits typical fading.
I will add that there is some minor minor rust and stains in the car. When I looked at it he surprised me when I was driving it by saying that it may need a new clutch in the next 10k miles. But, it was hard to shift (Ive never driven a truck so they may be different for cars) and would make a grinding noise when trying to shift into second from a stop with the clutch in. So my question is what would you pay for it and does it need work on the clutch, master cylinder, or slave cylinder? Also how much would this cost? I appreciate the comments!
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