Looking for a 1st Gen. T4R -- Where to start?

[eric_rosenwald]

My family had a 1986 4Runner about 15 years ago. I was too young to appreciate how great it was. I'm interested in buying one now, but I don't know where to start. I've been checking Craigslist, google searches, etc. I have a few that I'm considering.

More than anything else, I need to know what to take into consideration when buying one. I'm not a big car guy so I'm a bit naive -- but I understand the basics. I have an engineering background, so I'm comfortable with any detailed technical advice you guys might have. I want a manual transmission with a decent paint-job. I don't want a project car that needs a lot of work, as is. I would put approximately 10k-12k miles on it. I want to take it off-road from time to time, but I don't need a rock-crawler.

What should I look out for, condition and maintenance wise? Where should I check for rust? How important is it for me to have a rebuilt/replaced engine? I've heard some people say that a rebuilt engine, in general, doesn't mean much.

If there's an existing guide for buying a 1st generation T4R, feel free to let me know.

Thanks for your time,
Eric

 

[RiFF RaFF]

First word of advice - be patient!

I searched all over for a 1st/2nd Gen T4R, and ended up buying mine off of eBay from a local seller. That was eight years ago, and she just keeps getting better with age.

Good luck on your search!

The above picture is of my 93 4Runner SR5 at Rausch Creek PA.

:lookout:

 

[SJC]

Find an 85 with the 22r or 22re

 

[GuyHUey]

It took me almost a year to find the one I bought. Search Tempest for Craigslist was a valuable tool. I either found fully restored and 15k or beat to hell and 2K. I ended up with a 89 22RE automatic, body and frame in great shape.

It was lifted with a body lift. That's been removed and a few mods added.

Guy:beer:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/members/guyhuey-albums-89+blue+4runner-picture11374-001.jpg

 

[Thurlo76]

even if something isnt very pleasent to the eye dont be afraid to get a banged up one. i got mine for $900. it ran great! no rust. dents and dings can be fixed or just added to.

 

[fourwd1]

An important factor, depending on your location, is rust.
Frame rust is a big problem on the 80's (and later) trucks.
The frame rusts from the inside out, so you don't notice it until it's really bad.
Body rust also, especially around the mounts.

As far as maintenance, knowing when the Timing Chain (4 cyl) or Belt (6 cyl) was last changed is helpful.

Don't make "dress up" additions like wheels, tires, lift a major factor in deciding on a particular truck.

 

[crutchy]

If you don't plan to do really hard core off roading or being in the rocks then I would just pick up an IFS 1st gen (as they can generally be had for less than the solid axle models). A 22RE with a manual is the way to go for durability as 200,000 miles really isn't anything to worry about. The rust topic has already been hit up. Another thing to look out for is the saggy rear end. Lastly, don't rush into one or be afraid to branch out and get a good one, especially if you are in the rust belt. Good luck!

 

[GuyHUey]

If you don't plan to do really hard core off roading or being in the rocks then I would just pick up an IFS 1st gen (as they can generally be had for less than the solid axle models). A 22RE with a manual is the way to go for durability as 200,000 miles really isn't anything to worry about. The rust topic has already been hit up. Another thing to look out for is the saggy rear end. Lastly, don't rush into one or be afraid to branch out and get a good one, especially if you are in the rust belt. Good luck!

I agree on the branch out part. I bought a one way ticket to Atlanta and drove mine back to the Tampa Bay area in Florida. My wife thought I was crazy, but it was worth it for a Runner that was in great shape.

Once you really start looking you'll know the location of every 1st gen within a thousand miles, at least I did.

Guy,

 

[mytyeerinpie]

I do some pretty tough rock crawling (4 and 4+) trails and I have an 87 ifs with 33"s and I get along pretty well. If you are just hitting up some lil trails here and there you'll be fine. I found at lleast 3 the other day in my area on craigslist and I live in bummeffed south dakota.

 

[Vantage]

Great thread OP.

I have been looking for a cheap camping/winter rig to compliment my 2012 VW GLI.

Originally I was looking at 2nd gens, but more and more a first gen seems to be the ticket.

Sadly, they are next to impossible to find locally, and in most cases cost more than a late model 2nd gen.

 

[thatoneguy]

Solid axle will be better off-road, but buying a 1st gen with Independent Front Suspension will be cheaper and easier. The solid axle was in '84 and '85 models, and IFS was in '86-'89 models. I would go for the 22re 4-cylinder over the 3VZ-E V6. The 4 can pull respectable mileage and has decent torque.

The reason many buyers and owners avoid the V6 is because it is notorious for head-gasket failure and low mpg's.

Maintenance wise on the 4-cylinder, check to see if the Timing Chain has been replaced in the last couple years. If it's time for it to be replaced, you'll spend at least $100 for a decent kit, and spend some hours doing it. Or paying way too much for someone else to do it. I got lucky, after I bought my 4runner, while adjusted my valves, I noticed that my cam gear, chain, and guides appeared brand new.

If you buy one that's had proper maintenance and doesn't have a rod knock, you should have a reliable daily driver for years to come.

 

[eric_rosenwald]

Follow-Up Questions

Don't make "dress up" additions like wheels, tires, lift a major factor in deciding on a particular truck.

I completely agree. I just need something that can do moderate four-wheeling every few months. I don't need or want something lifted. It'll be a daily driver, so I could use the extra gas milage that comes with not having mud tires, etc. I also drive on California freeways; rollovers are a potential issue, and I absolutely don't want to be 20 feet up in the air in if I don't have to.

A good mechanic will be able to spot any signs of frame rust in an inspection, right? Are there any 1st gen. 4Runner issues that I should tell the mechanic to go over, that they might not otherwise know about? Before I buy anything, I'll definitely get it inspected -- how much would a thorough inspection cost in this particular case?

:nerd:

 

[eric_rosenwald]

Thanks

If you don't plan to do really hard core off roading or being in the rocks then I would just pick up an IFS 1st gen (as they can generally be had for less than the solid axle models). A 22RE with a manual is the way to go for durability as 200,000 miles really isn't anything to worry about. The rust topic has already been hit up. Another thing to look out for is the saggy rear end. Lastly, don't rush into one or be afraid to branch out and get a good one, especially if you are in the rust belt. Good luck!

Thanks for the advice. Thankfully I'm in the Pacific-Southwest, so I'm hoping rust won't be an issue for local ones.

 

[eric_rosenwald]

Absolutely

I agree on the branch out part. I bought a one way ticket to Atlanta and drove mine back to the Tampa Bay area in Florida. My wife thought I was crazy, but it was worth it for a Runner that was in great shape.

Once you really start looking you'll know the location of every 1st gen within a thousand miles, at least I did.

Guy,

Thanks for the advice. You're 100% right -- I know where every single one in the Southwest is!

 

[eric_rosenwald]

Thanks -- Follow-Up Q's

Solid axle will be better off-road, but buying a 1st gen with Independent Front Suspension will be cheaper and easier. The solid axle was in '84 and '85 models, and IFS was in '86-'89 models. I would go for the 22re 4-cylinder over the 3VZ-E V6. The 4 can pull respectable mileage and has decent torque.

The reason many buyers and owners avoid the V6 is because it is notorious for head-gasket failure and low mpg's.

Maintenance wise on the 4-cylinder, check to see if the Timing Chain has been replaced in the last couple years. If it's time for it to be replaced, you'll spend at least $100 for a decent kit, and spend some hours doing it. Or paying way too much for someone else to do it. I got lucky, after I bought my 4runner, while adjusted my valves, I noticed that my cam gear, chain, and guides appeared brand new.

If you buy one that's had proper maintenance and doesn't have a rod knock, you should have a reliable daily driver for years to come.

I asked my dad about the 4/6 cylinder issue. He tended to think it was a little little bit underpowered as a 4 cylinder, but maybe we were doing some pretty serious 4-wheeling with it at the time -- more than what it's designed to do without some serious rock-crawler mods. Either way, that's a very subjective issue. I'm hearing from you guys that the 4cyl 22RE should be just fine for what I need.

 

[eric_rosenwald]

2 Options

I tentatively have two vehicles in mind. Do you guys have any thoughts? I'm leaning towards #2...

#1:
$6,500
1987 manual trans.
156k-miles
18mpg
*original engine / not rebuilt
*Turbo / SR5, original automatic transmission has been swapped completely for a 5-speed manual.


#2:
$6,900
1989, manual trans.
26mpg (that sounds high, right??)
262k-miles, 100miles on rebuilt motor "Rebuilt motor has new pistons' bearings gaskets' new cylinder head, new clutch. fuel injected 22re."

 

[GuyHUey]

I tentatively have two vehicles in mind. Do you guys have any thoughts? I'm leaning towards #2...

#1:
$6,500
1987 manual trans.
156k-miles
18mpg
*original engine / not rebuilt
*Turbo / SR5, original automatic transmission has been swapped completely for a 5-speed manual.


#2:
$6,900
1989, manual trans.
26mpg (that sounds high, right??)
262k-miles, 100miles on rebuilt motor "Rebuilt motor has new pistons' bearings gaskets' new cylinder head, new clutch. fuel injected 22re."

I would like to see pics, the price seems really high unless they're in fantastic shape. I found an 88 in Texas that looked brand new for 7k.

For example mine was 3800. It didn't have the armor or bumpers, but no rust. Just under 200k miles.

Guy

 

[jlewis74]

Where are you located? Those sound way high unless they look like new. You can find them like that in the south east for 2-3K all day.

I tentatively have two vehicles in mind. Do you guys have any thoughts? I'm leaning towards #2...

#1:
$6,500
1987 manual trans.
156k-miles
18mpg
*original engine / not rebuilt
*Turbo / SR5, original automatic transmission has been swapped completely for a 5-speed manual.


#2:
$6,900
1989, manual trans.
26mpg (that sounds high, right??)
262k-miles, 100miles on rebuilt motor "Rebuilt motor has new pistons' bearings gaskets' new cylinder head, new clutch. fuel injected 22re."

 

[Footofgod]

Where's Bad Vision when you need him? That sounds crazy high!

 

[KidVermicious]

Those are both way too high. And definitely stay away from the turbo.

You should be looking in the $2000-$3000 range for an unmodded 1st gen in good mechanical order.