Looking for a spacer lift and a store online that will ship next day delivery

[aha2988]

the easiest bolt to break in the process is when your removing the rear sway bar nut from the sway bar link to let the axle fully droop. so go easy on those.

also be sure to disconnect the front ABS wheel speed sensor wire before letting the front suspension unload to get the strut tower out there 80 bucks a piece.

this might have been mentioned but the forum's slow today so i just wanted to hear myself talk some more lol

 

[superman3043]

I'd say if you've got M10-M18, you should be straight. Might only be up to M17, but I've seen a few 18's sneak in from various jobs... Just don't recall which. They all seem to blend together after taking your truck apart a few times.

 

[aha2988]

on the front it takes

10mm,12mm,14mm,17mm

rear

10mm, 12mm, and i believe it may take an 8mm or 10mm wrench to hold the top of the rear shock while you loosen the nut with a 12mm wrench. rear sway bar end link is a 12mm the bottom bolt on the shock is a 14mm i believe

you'll want these sizes in both sockets and wrenches pending location of nut's and bolts. also one small flat head screw driver to disconnect the ABS sensor wire from its clips and to get it unplugged

the 14mm and 17mm you'll probably want in a 1/2inch drive socket with a breaker bar as those are for removing the front brake caliper assembly from the hub assembly and disconnecting the lower control arm from the steering spindle they both have lock tight on them an will take some muscle to break free

 

[Lyric]

Thanks guys and I have all those so I'm good to go.

Now am I able to PB Blast these areas with the tires still on? Like I said if so I can do that now.

 

[superman3043]

Yeah you should be able to get to all of them with the tires on.

 

[aha2988]

Thanks guys and I have all those so I'm good to go.

Now am I able to PB Blast these areas with the tires still on? Like I said if so I can do that now.

yeah look for bolts and nuts on top an bottom of shocks may have to peak around tires to see them hit those

you can definitely see the sway bar end links on the rear there's just one nut to break free on the top of the link hit that

hit the bottom bolt on the front shock.. if you can get up to the shock tower in the fender well up front hit the top three nuts an studs at the top of the strut tower.

and finally look at the bottom of the lower control arm you'll see your lower ball joints.. to the left an right of the ball joints are two bolts you'll be taking off to let the front suspension drop hit those real good

 

[Lyric]

Ok so I just went outside and used PB Blaster on the front and rear both so hopefully this will help out. It's right now 3:30 my time and I wont be starting this till 6:30 so hopefully 3 hours will give time for it to sit in.

So worst case scenario what if one of the heads on a bolt strips? Not the thread but the head itself?

 

[Lyric]

Help please

Unable to get a arm down. Please help

 

[Lyric]

Please note I started another thread because I cannot get the strut out and more

Please read through this thread I started for my strut being a b***h and not wanting to come out.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/127323-strut-wont-come-out-feels-stuck.html#post1205486

I need help guys, PLEASE.

 

[Lyric]

Anyone who has been helping me on this post please see the link to the thread above for more information and help that I am needing. I wont to try and attempt this tomorrow again but would like some help or input. Thanks.

 

[aha2988]

sorry to leave you hangin buddy I've been knee deep In gear oil workin on my truck lol..

is there any rust build up noticeable between the top of the strut tower and the inside of the strut housing?

Try soaking the top upper threaded rod on the top center of the strut the one with the nut your not supposed to remove with PB there could just be a strong bond there that's needs to be broken

if that doesn't work try heat like an adjustable propane torch it'll expand the metal and help perhaps try the other side an see if you have better luck ill pay attention better an try to help you out

 

[Lyric]

So today I had someone try and help me put the spacers in. We had a hell of a time trying to get the front shocks out and finally used an impact hammer to hit the top metal plate of the strut which loosened it from the strut housing. We also had to loosen the lower control arms on both front sides because no matter what they would not move at all.

So finally we got the front spacers in and everything bolted back up

Butttttt

on the drivers side we couldnt get one of the bolts on the lower control arm to tighten up all the way

Sooooo

*When I go to get an alignment is this how the do the alignment is by tightening the lower control arm bolts? Because one of the bolts on the drivers side is not as tightened all the way.

My steering wheel is slightly cocked a little to the left as well now which I hope by doing the alignment will fix this.

So I did not put the back spacers in yet as we were running low on time and daylight. Right now the vehicle is pretty much leveled with only using the front spacers. Can I not put the back spacers in? or would it look better with the back spacers?

 

[ebg18t]

I would not drive the vehicle with the lower control arm bolt loose.

 

[Lyric]

Gosh is everyone on Halloween Vacation or something? Geez lol

 

[aha2988]

yeah they'll need to adjust that cam lobe alignment bolt on the front an rear of the lower control arms. if the bolts loose DO NOT DRIVE IT. Spray some PB blaster on it an work it back and forth loose an tight until you can get it to tighten up (it'll save you some time an money at the alignment shop and possibly save you from purchasing a new bolt.)

Adding the rear spacers will bring the natural rake back and level the luggage rack and running boards. If your just looking to level the ride and are satisfied no you dont have to put the rear spacers in. hope this helps

 

[Lyric]

yeah they'll need to adjust that cam lobe alignment bolt on the front an rear of the lower control arms. if the bolts loose DO NOT DRIVE IT. Spray some PB blaster on it an work it back and forth loose an tight until you can get it to tighten up (it'll save you some time an money at the alignment shop and possibly save you from purchasing a new bolt.)

Adding the rear spacers will bring the natural rake back and level the luggage rack and running boards. If your just looking to level the ride and are satisfied no you dont have to put the rear spacers in. hope this helps

Well technically they are not loose or anything but they are not tightened completely because they wont tighten anymore. They are on pretty darn good and will not move at all.



TWO QUESTIONS

1) When I get the alignment will tightening the lower control arm bolts be a part of the alignment?
2) Do you think it would look better with the back lifted as well or or leave the back not?

I can see a slight uneven look to the running boards and roof rack like you mentioned.

 

[aha2988]

Well technically they are not loose or anything but they are not tightened completely because they wont tighten anymore. They are on pretty darn good and will not move at all.



TWO QUESTIONS

1) When I get the alignment will tightening the lower control arm bolts be a part of the alignment?
2) Do you think it would look better with the back lifted as well or or leave the back not?

I can see a slight uneven look to the running boards and roof rack like you mentioned.

During the alignment they'll loosen the bolts then rotate the cam lobe to push or pull the control arm around to gain the alignment needed then they'll re-tighten the bolts. I'm a little confused as to understand there current state.. there either tightened all the way or loose lol there's not really an in between.

The looks are your preference my friend, I personally like lifted trucks so i say the higher the better but its certainly your decision. also the back isn't nearly as pain staking as the front so you can always install them an see if you like it then remove them if you don't

BTW, congrats on getting the front spacers installed it sounds like it was quite the accomplishment!

 

[Lyric]

During the alignment they'll loosen the bolts then rotate the cam lobe to push or pull the control arm around to gain the alignment needed then they'll re-tighten the bolts. I'm a little confused as to understand there current state.. there either tightened all the way or loose lol there's not really an in between.

The looks are your preference my friend, I personally like lifted trucks so i say the higher the better but its certainly your decision. also the back isn't nearly as pain staking as the front so you can always install them an see if you like it then remove them if you don't

BTW, congrats on getting the front spacers installed it sounds like it was quite the accomplishment!

Just spoke with the alignment and tire shop and they said to do the alignment that they loosen the lower control arm bolts to get the specs right anyways so when I come in just to remind them that the lower control arms are not tightened all the way and they will loosen them a lot more to do that wheel alignment and tighten them completely and to the specs they need to be. So I guess I will be ok on this.

*I just cant wait to have my steering wheel back to center. lol

I am putting the rear spacers on tomorrow evening (Tuesday and going in for the alignment on Wednesday evening.

I am honestly unsure if I would like to put the rear spacers in or not. Would it cause a bad rake like it was stock or not nearly as bad?

 

[Lyric]

Photo

I have attached a photo of the Daystar spacer lift kit on my 4Runner. The photo is not so great and I will try and get better photos soon.

BTW I am thinking about taking the Running boards off. Any thoughts on this or if it would look better? Thanks